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You might take a look at the copper version (the last step).. you can then alternate layers of aluminum and copper to make something with ridiculous capacity... just make sure all the copper layers are connected to each other for your cathode (+) and the aluminum to each other for your anode (-). You overall voltage will be lower, but closer to AA-style voltages (1.3 or so). Starting with oxidized copper in the build will also help shorten conditioning time.I just started building such a stack today, 5 interwoven layers of copper and aluminum. I have the graphite, but I realize that graphite sheets or solid electrodes just might not be readily accessible for many people. I was able to buy a 10' section of aluminum flashing ($6) and 10' of copper ($34) at my local hardware store.
True, except he should be getting a much higher voltage with magnesium than he does. I haven't looked into magnesium yet - but using this technique he should be closer to 3.5-4 volts with Mg. I don't know about rechargability with MG either - once it becomes MgO, it might just stay there - giving you a "one way trip"I'm able to get 1.7 down to 1.2v with a similar chemistry (see the added end chapter) with copper on the anode with aluminum.Additionally, Aluminum is much easier to find as scrap than magnesium.
My dad bought it in junior high from a friend who built it from the kit in something like 1957. Over the years he replaced most of the capacitors and a few resistors. I received it last year as a gift from him and had to replace a few bits of my own, works beautifully once it warms up. As a reward for repairing it, he got me a brand new oscilloscope that sits next to it, and we've taken bets on which one will still be operable in another 60 years.
My dad bought it in junior high (~1957) from a friend who built it from the kit a year or two before. Over the years he replaced most of the capacitors and a few resistors. I received it last year as a gift from him and had to replace a few bits of my own, works beautifully once it warms up. As a reward for repairing it, he got me a brand new oscilloscope that sits next to it, and we've taken bets on which one will still be operable in another 60 years.
Junk Battery - 2.65v Rechar...View Instructable »
Essentially what I have for the graphite. I was documenting what I had on hand.. plus, you have to have a battery on hand (hopefully dead) to destroy to do that. Additionally, I wanted to make sure the residual MnO2 in the graphite wouldn't give me a false reading.But yes, you could totally use a lantern battery.
ARDUINO MPPT SOLAR CHARGE CONTROLLER (Version-3.0)
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