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Yep the bearing is hollow, as long as you drill in just the right place it doesn't change it at all, depending on what bar you have of course. You will probably need a carbide bit to get through the bar.
Hi. Yep I can and do turn the bar over from time to time. The hose of the oiler just exits onto the bar near the chain (on the cut side) From there it finds its way onto the chain, because there isn't anywhere else for it to go. It's very low-tech, but seems to work.
Stylish Passive Amplifier
Really interesting read, thanks so much for sharing this. I have loads of questions, but here's one: when you are taking heavy cuts across the width of the table (what I would call the y axis - though people seem to switch up terms here), do you notice the gantry end plates flexing at all? I wonder because although the triangular shape would make them strong in the X direction, they are essentially just flat plates in the y? I ask because I am in the process of Al casting some gantry end plates... Thanks again for an awesome write up :)
Thanks for the reply sevenmead. As a minimum the end plates may only have to be as strong as the cutting bit, but.... If you are trying to reduce chatter and increase accuracy, stiffness is more important than ultimate strength. If the end plates flexed as happily as a 1/8 inch bit during cut, they would increase deflection significantly because they are so much longer than the cutting bit. Imagine cutting with even a 1/2" bit that was stuck out as long as your z travel (more than 200mm)... That's going to increase inaccuracy a lot in all but the lightest of cuts! Now in reality cutter length is only one factor (of many) contributing to deflection at the cut. We obviously limit the stick out length of cutting bits to minimise it. Even then, cutter flex isn't easy to mitigate, wher...see more »Thanks for the reply sevenmead. As a minimum the end plates may only have to be as strong as the cutting bit, but.... If you are trying to reduce chatter and increase accuracy, stiffness is more important than ultimate strength. If the end plates flexed as happily as a 1/8 inch bit during cut, they would increase deflection significantly because they are so much longer than the cutting bit. Imagine cutting with even a 1/2" bit that was stuck out as long as your z travel (more than 200mm)... That's going to increase inaccuracy a lot in all but the lightest of cuts! Now in reality cutter length is only one factor (of many) contributing to deflection at the cut. We obviously limit the stick out length of cutting bits to minimise it. Even then, cutter flex isn't easy to mitigate, where as inaccuracy coming from the gantry beam, frame elements, linear guides, belts or ballscrews etc. is something we can usually work on to reduce deflection.Either way if you can tug on it without deflection, sounds like it is ample for your requirements, which is all that matters in the end. Thanks again for sharing.PS. I like your bling sliding electronics enclosure.
Hi Ronald. Sounds like you have your hands full. Looking forward to seeing a photo of it when you have it all glued up. Having 2 discs will really be useful. I have wanted to have 40 or 60 grit for quick stock removal a number of times, but am usually set up with 80 as a kinda compromise between surface finish and removal rate. I could change the disc, but who wants to bother with that when they are mid project!?
DIY Arduino 3D Laser Scanner
Nice instructable and video, thanks for sharing. Finished product looks very cool - I like a lot! I have an engine waiting for me to dismantle, and am quite excited about all the various cool parts I will find - I'm just not looking forward to the de-greasing and cleaning which is a nasty business in my experience. Though while my parents are on holiday I am tempted to try the dishwasher ;) Thanks again, good work.
Tools and Materials for CNC
3D Milling CAM Setup - Fusion 360
Welcome to CNC
You can use wood as soon as you cut it - It just depends what you are using it for, moisture content when you cut it, how it is stored, species, thickness, etc. etc. A million variables as to whether you SHOULD use it or not...
Troubleshooting + Wrap-up
Mixing + Pouring Concrete
Casting In Pre-made Molds
Low Cost Plastic Shredder
Hi Bpark1000, interesting stuff. I hadn't come across this stuff before, which surprised me. Seems it is mainly used by turners to get green bowls stable. Looking at it, immersing a piece that big would be really quite expensive. I have to admit the splits and cracks and warping is what makes the whole thing 'fun' for me - I like having to think of ways to creatively deal with it and make the 'faults' into features ;) The polyethylene glycol looks like it could be cool for projects that would use a thin cross section slices though... I need to do more research, check out how nasty the chemicals are etc before I'm sold on the idea...
Thanks deemon :) No, not comprehensively. I left it run while playing music for a whole evening (probably 4 hours) without them running out though. The arduino pack should last really quite long (I am using 4x 2000mAH NiHM aa batteries in each pack - that's a lot compared to the 9V battery and voltage regulator solution that people often seem to go for!). The LED pack is the same and I haven't had to recharge yet... The life would depend how loud the music is and the style of music (how many of the leds are on and how much of the time).
Hi Raitis, thanks for the comment. The LED's are adafruit neopixels, and if you wire them to Adafruit's fairly detailed specs they should be good (resistor in series with the control signal and 1000uF cap in parallel with a dedicated power supply). Time will tell of course... The finish is Hardwax Oil, or Polyx Oil. I use it on most of my wooden projects apart from those going outside or in a bathroom or something... I like it a lot :)
Thanks Seamstar :)
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