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Real Man's Breakfast CasseroleView Instructable »
Fun With PIC Assembly - Epi...View Instructable »
Starting with a good receiver is always the best policy (super heterodyne is best). I use the RXB6 and pick up lots of valid 433 signals (not noise). I suspect many are from smart utility meters. I bought it to capture signals from cheap wireless security system sensors I have lying around. Anyway, I also use HC-12 modules for wireless communications with my PIC micro projects and they come with a helix antenna that is 20 turns on about a 5/32 inch core (no straight piece on top). They work well. I have also seen several online articles that show 17 turns on what amounts to a 7/32 inch core, again with no straight piece on top. I use standard drill bits of the right size and wind the antennas on the smooth shanks. Solid core wire from salvaged Ethernet cable is one good source.
It is hard to see the connector in your video but it looks like the jumper for the power on switch is in the wrong holes (2 and 9 instead of 4 and 6). Remember, the picture in the Instructable is the front view of the mating connector, not the connector on the subwoofer.
Great! One more orphan subwoofer saved.
First, make sure that you are connected to the correct pin numbers on the DB-9 connector. It is very easy to get the numbering backwards. Second, plug in your adapter with the power cord to the subwoofer unplugged. When you plug the subwoofer into power you may hear a little pop sound in the speakers. Third, make sure that the green plug from the subwoofer is plugged into an audio source. That is the most important one to connect. You can try plugging it into something like an MP3 player to see if you get sound. Fourth, make sure that your computer audio output is turned on and the volume is set high. Good luck.
Thanks. I do this stuff for fun and to keep my brain sharp. But I also like to share knowledge. Speaking of PDP-11's, I found some hard disk packs at the recycling center when I volunteered there. The copper-colored platters go nicely with the shiny silver ones from smaller drives to make an interesting wind chime.
Just a heads up for folks using these modules. GPS signals are very weak so antenna quality and positioning are very critical. It's best to keep the antenna away from the electronics, pointed up and, if indoors, try placing it close to a window for better reception. There are better, but more expensive, GPS units if you want something for indoors. The Ublox ones are meant to be used outdoors with things like drones.
It looks like Forstner bits would be perfect for this job. I have a set but will have to wait until warmer weather to try it. My woodworking tools are in an unheated garage. You could also make the cubes by gluing thinner pieces of different kinds of wood together (like oak and walnut).
You are welcome.
You are welcome. Glad it helped.
Thank you for the kind words. For the most part I build these things just for fun but I have a strong belief in sharing what I learn.
Congratulations on your success! I do these little projects mostly for fun and for my own education but I write them up just in case someone else wants or needs to learn. I'm glad that you found it useful.
Ok, no help from the Instructables staff so let me help them do their job. Today the delete button mysteriously showed up again under the "More" button Problem solved with getting rid of the unwanted drafts.As for the original problem, it still exists with Win10/IE11. Worked perfectly with Win7/IE11 7 months ago. The copy/paste does work as expected if I use either Firefox or Chrome. Haven't tried using Edge because I don't like it at all.
I just tried compiling with the latest version of MPLAB (3.35) and assembler (mpasm) version 5.68. It worked fine. If you are not using those versions I recommend that you upgrade. You could delete the line "MAIN CODE". That would make sure that all code stays on page 0.
No bother. I'm glad you found a solution.
Thanks for the comment. What we are actually measuring is the entire pulse width so falling edge (start of bit) to falling edge (start of next bit) fulfills that requirement. Can't have the second falling edge without a rising edge somewhere in between. If this was intended for a precision IR communications system then more stringent measuring methods would certainly be in order.
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