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You need to look into battery charging circuits and if you are dealing with lipo batteries, be careful. Good luck.
If your earbuds/headphones are good and you suspect a bad jack, you might be able to look in deep to see if the contacts are bent in the jack and straighten/clean them. Otherwise, you will need to open up your unit to see if it is a loose/bad wire/connection to resolder or replace the jack entirely. If that doesn't fix it, time to get another cheap mp3 player. Good luck.
Thanks. I never really knew about polyfuses before. How long do you have to wait for it to reset after the polyfuse trips so you can use the multimeter again?
Nice. If my kid made one, it would say "DAD SEND MORE MONEY".
that would be too easy.
You can use anything to make a handle. Grab that big wooden spoon or the metal spatula, a strip of aluminum. Drill holes to match. Figure out if you need threaded bolts to secure to the existing holes if they have a nut or anchor embedded in there or just pointy sheet metal screws. You need "standoffs" or spacers to lift the handle part away from the door, they can be a drilled through dowel or tubular rod which the bolt passes through. Or just put in some screw eye bolts in those holes. Tie a piece of rope for your handle. Good luck.
Depends on the bulb, wattage, power supply, plug direct into wall?. You should wire them in parallel so when one bulb burns out, the rest are still lit. LED bulbs are recommended since they will not put off a lot of heat. If this is for makeup/bathroom mirror you might want to get the "daylight" temp bulbs since regular will have the more yellowish light. Good luck.
and you might want to go with the smaller candelabra base sockets for smaller bulbs, although they are might be more expensive.
Nice. It would be interesting to surface the framework and see it you can launch a coin to spiral into the abyss. Make a high tech wishing well/Christmas donation kettle, add soundfx for the echo drop.
ah, welcome to the makendo oracle, for a quarter coin it will flash and tell your fortune, for two coins it will tell you a good fortune...
Too bad Codebender is shutting down. There doesn't seem to be a replacement for it either and educators are scrambling for something else.
optically with a lens. mechanically with spinning mirrors.
Yes. Maybe try this with sticking a wad of chewing gum in Singapore.
I wouldn't say that. I think it more stems from the quality of life that we have come to expect, at least in my neck of the woods. We're all for the freedom of speech but when you express yourself by using a form of vandalizing/contributing to litter/creating an eyesore and violating the public space for all to enjoy, then it is wrong. As a homeowner I have had my property defaced with graffiti. utility pole outside all plastered with notices - rusty staples/dried up tape and all sorts of handbills/fliers stuffed in the door. And of course, there is no saying if someone does turn this thing evil and uses it to pass messages of hate. So there ya go, not in my backyard.But I will say, good art should stir up good discussion.
I believe it is the spirit of the law and no grey area to interpret. You can tell it to the judge.
What the NY Times failed to inform you is that posting bills is illegal in NYC. http://www1.nyc.gov/assets/dsny/about/laws/posting...No good deed goes unpunished.
1. There is a big difference between being an electrician and an electrical engineer. Don't mess with 230vac mains house wiring unless you know what you are doing lest you get into a dangerous situation with yourself and burn down the house.That said, research what commercial systems they have out there already to control lamp dimmers, lights, power outlets, etc by using the existing wiring all linked to some master control. They might communicate with the remote unit through wifi, bluetooth or inject a signal through the house wiring. From that, figure out what you want to do or figure out how your system should work. Good luck.
zwave, xbee, X10, and a whole slew of stuff on display at the home center HUE, etc. Good luck.
So....Are you sure you are using a thermistor component? Is it wired the same way as the tutorial you link to? 3 wires for the setup and arduino analog pin connected to where the thermistor and resistor join?I don't think thermistors self-heat but should be acclimating itself to the external air around it or the object that you glue it on/make contact with. It should just be a temperature probe. Is there a datasheet to tell exactly what resistor you should pair it up with? Maybe post the code you are using or describe better what application you are trying to use a thermistor for. And 50 or 60 degrees F or C? 15 Ohm or 150 Ohm resistor?
http://www.instructables.com/community/Contest-FAQ...To even out the chances of getting into the finalist pool with the whole voting period thing, there will be some staff and sponsor picks not based on the general voting. The finalists then go on to judging. If you have a great instructable, it will get noticed whenever it gets added to the contest. You gotta be in it to win it. Good luck.
depends on what you got going in...
You can go back in to edit your instructable. Click on the image in the step to view/edit. You should then see the Add Note button at the bottom. Drag that box that appears on the image to resize it around the area where you want the note. Add text and be sure to save it. Give it a few minutes for the system to update and go view the instructable normally to see the note show up.
I use chrome on the ipad, or through a browser, see if you have a "request desktop site" menu choice from the browser menus. That forces it to load up the full version of the site instead of the "mobile" version. Do that when you opened up the edit page that shows the steps or when you click on the image to edit, you should see the add note button appear.
This might help to start... http://playground.arduino.cc/Main/KeypadTutorialYou might not have enough pins on an UNO to sense the complete grid and might need to add a multiplexer chip circuit to consolidate several inputs in one. Good luck.
You could start here...http://www.digikey.com/en/articles/techzone/2013/m...
Ah, probably heat embossing fabric on top of rubber stamps.Try this http://www.moodfabrics.com/catalogsearch/result/?cat=&q=rayon+acetate+velvet Pricey, but it is the acetate/rayon blend. Order a swatch to test it out. Good luck.
What kind of stamping?
Nice. It's got a Banksy feel to it. What is it - digital print from photos with a computerized filter or ink/paint rendering of some sort?
Are they the ones who certify dairy products to be wholesome and hormone free?
**redacted**I dunno. It may be more of an operational code name than a chip itself.
Time to get a bigger coffee maker if you are drinking so much coffee that you have a runaway machine. I think normal circuit breakers are designed to trip long before the wires get overheated. Thermal shutoff should be built into the device itself and probably part of that UL, CE or other consumer safety approvals. Sure, one could plug powerstrip into powerstrip and overload a circuit and maybe heat up the outlet or wires but hopefully you don't do that.
I could see situations where there is a danger but the manufacturers probably took a look at the statistics of accidents caused by overheated outlets and decided it was not worth their time/money/profit to build and include such a safety feature. Maybe make the plug plastic something heat reactive to visually warn the user if it is too hot.
You found the right odd people to help with your accessiblity problem. I'm not sure if Dremel accessories or similar rotary tool parts(Harbor Freight, Northern Tool, etc) are available to you. They already have small things like mini sanding drums/disks, shaped grindstones, to have at the nails. I don't know if your electric screwdriver is like a drill or just turns slowly. If it has a chuck(jawed opening to clamp down and hold the bit) or just the hex shaped screwdriver bit holder. You can get an adapter to make it hold those drill bit like accessories. There is also a flexible shaft option for those Dremels to extend the reach of the bit away from the motor. For a real low speed sanding disk you can epoxy on a flat wood disk to the end of a drill bit and glue or double sided tape on a...see more »You found the right odd people to help with your accessiblity problem. I'm not sure if Dremel accessories or similar rotary tool parts(Harbor Freight, Northern Tool, etc) are available to you. They already have small things like mini sanding drums/disks, shaped grindstones, to have at the nails. I don't know if your electric screwdriver is like a drill or just turns slowly. If it has a chuck(jawed opening to clamp down and hold the bit) or just the hex shaped screwdriver bit holder. You can get an adapter to make it hold those drill bit like accessories. There is also a flexible shaft option for those Dremels to extend the reach of the bit away from the motor. For a real low speed sanding disk you can epoxy on a flat wood disk to the end of a drill bit and glue or double sided tape on a piece of sandpaper. A mini belt sander tool might be overkill, I dunno. Good luck.
A long time ago, I had to snake out the storm drain pipe. The cleanout plug was in a dark corner of the basement. I opened it up and ran the metal drain snake through. When I was finished and was ready to close it back up, I saw some little specks of light. I thought it was some bits of metal that scraped off the rusty drain snake and was reflecting by the flashlight. I put the flashlight down and still saw the bits of light. I looked closer and saw some moving luminous specks. Cool, radioactive algae or microscopic creatures in NYC sewers, just what I expected and didn't think much else. I never really found out what they were but this topic reminded me to look. It may have been larvae of "railroad worms", a bioluminescent beetle can glow in the dark like a firefly. The back...see more »A long time ago, I had to snake out the storm drain pipe. The cleanout plug was in a dark corner of the basement. I opened it up and ran the metal drain snake through. When I was finished and was ready to close it back up, I saw some little specks of light. I thought it was some bits of metal that scraped off the rusty drain snake and was reflecting by the flashlight. I put the flashlight down and still saw the bits of light. I looked closer and saw some moving luminous specks. Cool, radioactive algae or microscopic creatures in NYC sewers, just what I expected and didn't think much else. I never really found out what they were but this topic reminded me to look. It may have been larvae of "railroad worms", a bioluminescent beetle can glow in the dark like a firefly. The backyard had a storm drain and gutters fed into that pipe so that's how they probably ended up in there.
Something like this https://www.amazon.com/Ebtech-LLS-2-Level-Shifter-...Sound panels just referring to your mixer consoles, etc.
I think the first issue to take care of is getting a level shifter box to get that line level output of your minidisc, mp3 player, CD, headphone output, iphone, etc to instrument level that your mixers accept. Once you can do that, you will find a solution to routing that through your sound panels to any device. Good luck.
What do you mean "remake a speaker"? That Tornado g-650 speaker unit is configured to work already. What kind of signal are you trying to pump into the speakers?
So what do you want your circuit board to do? You have a bunch of varying loads that require different amounts of power, dunno what kind of power supply, throw in a rotary multiple switch...
I'm not sure what problem you are trying to address. Fix it up so the garbage looks nice?(sorry, maybe false assumption thinking this is an art school project). Here in NYC and probably in most other urban centers, garbage disposal falls under the municipal sanitation codes. Each property owner is responsible for putting out the garbage, maintaining the receptacles and tidiness of the outside property up to 18 inches out into the street/curb. Dumping is illegal and so is putting your trash in your neighbors bins. Improper recycling is also fined. They only have those central waste houses in small apartment complexes. As a homeowner, why would you haul your trash a block away to put it in a common waste bin?
That's a welcome comment. Thanks.
I dunno, you may need to throw in some things like capacitors and diodes. What circuits do you currently have set up?
You want a circuit diagram and the code to run it on an arduino?
Just type in "bag" at the let's make search box on top. You may find something to make.
Conclusion & Going Further
Leslie Birchinator - Neopix...View Instructable »
Have you tried contact cement for countertop laminates? You roll it on the base, let dry to evaporate the nasty solvents and there is a sticky surface left. You've got one chance to place the parts together though. Other than that, experiment with those new roof repair coatings. One I've used is latex based and will stick to anything. You might have to put some pinholes in the mylar sheet for it to breathe to dry but looks isn't everything and you wouldn't sacrifice too much reflection with a couple of small blobs peeking through. Good luck.
Not really sure but latex stuff is probably more water based so they need to dry exposed to air. Silicones cure and give off that vinegary smell. Maybe just lay down beads or lines of silicone caulk to stick it and squeegee flat.I'm not that versed in solar heating but I remember seeing somewhere that a full white surface may be even better than a mirror like coating and the collector tube should be black for more efficiency.
Well, I guess you're committed, the info is out there if you search hard enough... Good luck.https://forum.voltivo.com/showthread.php?tid=8339
1. Did the printer ever work with the original board that was installed in the 3D printer?
You can 3D print an unstompable designed case or even machine the case out of a metal block or fill some of the voids - allowing the piezo to vibrate - with epoxy putty or even hot glue... All can be done to increase the odds in your favor.
Sure did. More candy for me.
Better way would probably be to mount the magnets on the swinging arm on some kind of adjustable slide device. That way, you can vary the distance to the contact point and get the exact needed power of the magnet to attract the free object. It might be tough to get stepped power magnets exactly in the strength you need. There is some formula to calculate magnetic strength over distance... Good luck.
The magnets are locked into position at the end of each trapeze. You just need to embed steel nuts or screws in Lego man's feet and hands. Have a piece that has a slot over a bolt/wingnut to make the extending trapeze or duct tape the magnets in place at the right length when you get it working.
thanks, simple to make with interesting results.
thanks, and if you don't like it, you can vote with your feet.
DO NOT hook up your controller just yet. I think you have the wrong controller or bought the wrong set of lights to go with that controller.WS2811 5V individually addressable LEDs use one digital line to the controller(Data In - blue wire then pass on the signal to the next with the Data Out) and power with +5volts and ground.Your controller output is 12-24 volts with separate lines for R, G, B, and white. Those are for the analog controllers which pump out voltage to each color light or channel. You would probably damage a whole bunch of LED elements on that strip you have if you connect them.The fix is to get either a different LED strip or get the correct controller.And I hope you have the app that goes with that bluetooth controller. Good luck.
Thanks, for you I will put out the the welcome mat.
The UnWelcome MatView Instructable »
Pics of your setup or schematic of what you tried to do?
https://www.adafruit.com/product/1203 Maybe looking at the datasheet/manual links might give a clue if you can get at just the raw data. Just curious though, unless you are in some kind of hardware development or algorithms class it seems like you are just reinventing the driver/library for that device. Good luck.
Check the printer configuration in Repetier that it is set for your printer. Again, not knowing what kind of 3D printer you are using, maybe you need the latest or a custom configured version of Repetier. Does your clone use the same profiles as a name brand machine? You should manually be able to move the printhead and test extrude through controls in Repetier if all is configured correctly.
It must be some kind of generic 3D import printer but the firmware, if you have the correct version, may need to be configured for the hot end/thermistor you are using. I don't know if those temperature readings are real or accurate. Is the hotend assembled correctly through the heater core with all the feed tubes clear? Is it getting warm when you get close to it? Check the wiring and for the heated bed/thermistor. Load in a model to actually slice and print.
Any specific help forums for your brand of printer?Did you actually have any model to print and did it get sliced properly to generate gcode before printing?You should go through the bed leveling procedures before attempting to print.Your extruder nozzle may be jammed or the feeder is not adjusted properly to grip the filament. Do you see the extruder motor turn? The filament may not have been pushed all the way into the hot end. You can manually push through some filiament while the hot end is heated up to see some filament oozing out.If you have the correct firmware loaded on your printer, the software must be configured with the right profile for the printer settings.Also, the hot end heats up, then the heated bed has to come to temperature before the actual print. Maybe the erratic ...see more »Any specific help forums for your brand of printer?Did you actually have any model to print and did it get sliced properly to generate gcode before printing?You should go through the bed leveling procedures before attempting to print.Your extruder nozzle may be jammed or the feeder is not adjusted properly to grip the filament. Do you see the extruder motor turn? The filament may not have been pushed all the way into the hot end. You can manually push through some filiament while the hot end is heated up to see some filament oozing out.If you have the correct firmware loaded on your printer, the software must be configured with the right profile for the printer settings.Also, the hot end heats up, then the heated bed has to come to temperature before the actual print. Maybe the erratic xy movement is the head trying to find home position before the print, your endstop switches may not be hooked up or working correctly.Yup, a lot of things to figure out when owning a 3D printer. Good luck.
You are missing defining the variable used for the led pin number before the void setup() lineconst int LED_BUILTIN = 13; // the number of the LED pinor replace "LED_BUILTIN" everywhere with the pin number.You need to find out what digital pin number is used for the onboard LED for your model of arduino, it might be 13 or something else.
When the IDE loads up ready for you to code something, the setup and loop syntax is there for you to expand on. If you are copying a complete sketch from somewhere else, you can clear that out and paste it in. What is there does nothing but should compile/verify if you have the correct settings/port for the arduino that is connected on USB.
Can you post a screenshot of the error or describe what the problem is? When do you get the error - when you hit compile, uploading, or running the program and it is not doing what you expect it to do? The mindreaders will be here shortly.
maybe work something off of this, is that your own security system to mod or is it a leased system with remote monitoring that you can't hack? Good luck.
You could but you have to think how it would be used. It might be uncomfortable to wear with a switch paddle digging into your foot or it might get accidentally triggered by normal movement while walking. You could make a slip case with the a switch spring activated upon release from the case. Hack away.
Thanks. Make first if you need it, then study it for a while.
Learn to use the switch case statement, essentially use your trigger value to do something based on what it is. Good luck.https://www.arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/SwitchCase
Wearable Personal Safety AlarmView Instructable »
You would usually some kind of nut and bolt to pin the joints if you were to make one. Those mass made would have some kind of rivet pin or a bolt where both ends are flared out or mashed to keep it in place. This one might have screws that go into the dowel or an expander plug but only has threads the bottom half of the screw. The upper body of the bolt may be smooth to make it pivot easily in the joint.
There are so many ways to make a carrying bag. You could look a arrow quiver designs, a long simple stuff sack, or copy one of the commercially available ones. How did you want it to close, with a zipper or drawstring, fold over clasp, did you need a carrying strap or handle... Padding could be anything you want from foam to fiberfill batting, use a padded mover's blanket as the base material. Learn to sew... Good luck.
It is covered in Steps 1 to 3 but it is just some wood strips. Take a look through the ible again, the system may have been slow to load and the view all steps button may not have been working.
42.Robot works in mysterious ways.
I can't say if you want to retain the original part for authenticity sake or just want to get the lamp up and running again. If you were to frankenstein the the lamp, it is way easier to figure out how to fit the old knob to a new shaft than to rebuild the switch.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stiffel-Lamp-Parts-Socket-...That may be the same. Your contacts inside may be worn and that old bakelite plastic is disintegrating so it might be better to replace with a modern switch for safety. Good luck.
I would look into talking with some DJs or theater stagehands about DMX controlled stage lighting. There are many commercial built controllers out there and they are for heavy duty lighting. Sure, you could build your own but you probably need it fast and the business can write off the cost.
Can you read the video file names off of the SD card? It might give a clue to what video format the videos are encoded in. Also, is there is a name/numbering scheme to determine the order that they are referenced or played? You might be able to replace a video in the appropriate format. Good luck.
They are sprinkled here and there to spice things up.
haha, I never realized this ible was seasoned with typos.
Thanks. Necessity is the mother of invention.
Youse guys, I picked this up at a sale a couple of years back. I still haven't unboxed it because I am working on upgrading the power in the house. Didn't want to even test plug that thing in to play with it, but you know how that goes.
Dorm Bedpost Side Table and...View Instructable »
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