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55Instructables1,609,228Views3,497CommentsEuropeJoined February 14th, 2009
I am a physician by trade. After a career in the pharmeceutical world I decided to take it a bit slower and do things I like. Other than my hobbies that involves grassroots medicine in S.E.&P Asia. I have built low income cow dung bio-reactors, solar lamps and family fish ponds as well as houses out of every kind of thinkable material. Instructables is an endless source of inspiration for my projects.

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  • Adding an MCP23017 I/O Extender to Arduino or ESP8266

    Mosix, please read my caveat at the top

    Next to my earlier reply to yr question, pls also read my caveat at the top of the article

    Generally you would use bitwise operators for that, but can also do with setbit or bitWrite(). I suggest you best use the library. That Library however uses the bitWrite() method.Here is some general info on setting/clearing specific bits: https://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=421029.0As you cannot directly alter 1 bit over the I2C port leaving the others untouched, obviously you need to know the current state of the specific Port (all 8 bits), do your operation on that one and then write the 8 bits back, something like this:regValue = readRegister(regAddr); // set the value for the particular bit bitWrite(regValue,bit,pValue); writeRegister(regAddr,regValue);

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  • diy_bloke commented on Kuzmanic's instructable Sonoff Garage Door Opener1 day ago
    Sonoff Garage Door Opener

    thanx, I thought so but just wanted to make sure

    Well done. Just a question though. It is not clear to me why you cut the relay from the mains power. Is that because your garage door opener trigger contact is Low Voltage?

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  • Ultimate Portable Power Source: Axim, PSP, and USB All-in-one Charger

    This is an approach I had been considering, but basically everybody is advising against putting 2 LM7805 regulators in parallel because the current draw might not be the same and each LM7805 in principle is also backfed by this circuit.It probably will work safely as long as you stay at lower currents, but It is not something I think could safely deliver 2 or 3 Amps and thus one might as well stick to one LM7805.Also a 9 Volt battery to produce 5 volt might not be the most efficient choice.I realise this is a rather 'old' instructable. Nowadays there are fairly cheap LM2596 based buck regulators that can deliver 2-3 amps with minimal loss

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  • Increasing Current on 78xx Series Regulators

    Interesting. I was considering a similar approach, but read just about everywhere it was a bad idea as both chips were not balanced. I see someone else brought up the same concern and got a reply that spoke of balancing by the developed heat. Not sure if that would work..As this is from 2006, would be interesting to hear the experience of the Author.Having said that, there are now (11 years later) cheap LM2596 buck converters that can deliver 3 amps (if cooled), so that might be a better option

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  • diy_bloke commented on SayantanM4's instructable Digital Dustbin4 days ago
    Digital Dustbin

    then I need another one to bring me my drinks ;-)Actually I have seen someone who build an outside trashcan that would put itself out on trash day and come back to the house after it was emptied.. But that had a rail from the house over the driveway to the curb.Currently I am making a shopping trolley that follows me (actually it follows my phone), have the concept working but you know how it is... many projects

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  • diy_bloke commented on diy_bloke's instructable 433 MHz Coil Loaded Antenna4 days ago
    433 MHz Coil Loaded Antenna

    yes you are fully correct. I am sending. Though I have done projects that involved receiving, my main use is sending. The receivers are commercial wall switches.Indeed, with interrupts and one pin it is a whole different ballgame.Yes had seen the pilight MQTT433gateway. You also may want to check github for a guy called "1technophile" he has an IR/433/MQTT/RFM69 hub

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  • diy_bloke commented on SayantanM4's instructable Digital Dustbin5 days ago
    Digital Dustbin

    Definitely a conversation piece

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  • diy_bloke commented on diy_bloke's instructable AC PWM Dimmer for Arduino6 days ago
    AC PWM Dimmer for Arduino

    OK, just to make sure I tried again with the STP10NK60 and a 500 Watt lamp, works well, yes gets fairly warm after say 20 min but nothing serious.Then I tried again with a 730, works well too, gets hotter but nothing to worry about

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  • WifiManager + Emoncms (OEM) With ESP8266 (Temperature) #1

    Great. Emoncms is a very versatile StorageCloud, bit of a steel learning curve but very useful

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  • diy_bloke commented on SayantanM4's instructable Digital Dustbin6 days ago
    Digital Dustbin

    Great work, but I got to admit it looks like a part of an abandoned Soyuz space craft ;-)Not the proverbial "Wife friendly" designBut pls dont take that as an insult, I do think it looks great

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  • diy_bloke commented on diy_bloke's instructable AC PWM Dimmer for Arduino6 days ago
    AC PWM Dimmer for Arduino

    ok, so just to get it staright. When you removed the optocoupler and put in a 500 Watt lamp the IRF730 burned out? Even though the gate was at 15 Volt.Honestly I cant really wrap my head around it The IRF 730 when fully open should be able to get 5.5 amps. Even if it is hot it still can deliver 3.5 amps and in short bursts even 22 amp.When you use a 500 Watt lamp the current is around 2 amps (when on 230 Volt). There shouldnt be a problem at all.When fully open the RDSon is 1 ohm so it would develop 2 Watt in warmth and that should not be a problem, definitely not instantaneous.There are several (remote) possibilities:There is a fault in yr circuit. Not the circuit as drawn, but as you built it, but I think you already checked an double checked it.The IRF730 has a max Gate voltage ...

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    ok, so just to get it staright. When you removed the optocoupler and put in a 500 Watt lamp the IRF730 burned out? Even though the gate was at 15 Volt.Honestly I cant really wrap my head around it The IRF 730 when fully open should be able to get 5.5 amps. Even if it is hot it still can deliver 3.5 amps and in short bursts even 22 amp.When you use a 500 Watt lamp the current is around 2 amps (when on 230 Volt). There shouldnt be a problem at all.When fully open the RDSon is 1 ohm so it would develop 2 Watt in warmth and that should not be a problem, definitely not instantaneous.There are several (remote) possibilities:There is a fault in yr circuit. Not the circuit as drawn, but as you built it, but I think you already checked an double checked it.The IRF730 has a max Gate voltage of 20 Volt, so 15 Volt is getting close but still shld be room enough. Also, then I wouldnt expect only the 500 watt to be a problem.Please do the following: check if the resistors of your voltage divider have the proper value and are connected properly.Also, did you use the version with a zener diode?

    OK I see you used the zener. Please check something else as well, can you measure if your diode bridge is connected correctly and that indeed you have DC on your lamp!

    then i must say i am getting at the end of my rope, did you measure if indeed you are feeding the lamp with DC?, not presume but actually measure?

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  • diy_bloke commented on DIYmechanics's instructable GLO: IoT Smart Light6 days ago
    GLO: IoT Smart Light

    Thanks. I have not had any problems as I didnt combine the two yet, but it is something i hear from various sources, so i was just wondering what your experience was

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  • Arduino Controlled RGB LED Strip for the Living Room

    Thanks, but maybe i amstill missing some basic info. Openhab sends an MQTT, but if i do that it goes to my mqtt broker, who resends it via the wifi/ethernet network.How in your case does the MQTT info get on an rfm69 transmitter.

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  • diy_bloke commented on Libahunt's instructable Automated Greenhouse Ventilation6 days ago
    Automated Greenhouse Ventilation

    Well done!!

    and not just the heat. Especially with tomatoes it shouldnt get too humid either

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  • diy_bloke commented on diy_bloke's instructable 433 MHz Coil Loaded Antenna1 week ago
    433 MHz Coil Loaded Antenna

    using a Wemos board (D1 mini). I am not sure how the witty cloud board exposes 5V to the pins. It has a 3v3 adapter and one can use the voltage from that.Though the 433MHz Transmitter works better on 5V vcc, it is no problem (as I experienced) to have the signal come from a 5V pin.yes, antenna makes a big difference. Before I made this one, only using a 17 cm wire, 433 Mhz wasnt a serious option

    Good luck :-)

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  • diy_bloke commented on diy_bloke's instructable AC PWM Dimmer for Arduino1 week ago
    AC PWM Dimmer for Arduino

    dont overlook my earlier reply to your comment, just adding something here: Somehow I start to suspect the triggering of the 4N35. To get it into saturation, ideally one needs 10mA. The NodeMCU can deliver that. However with a forward voltage of 1.2 Volts there is 2 volts left over the 330 ohm resistor which comes to 6mA. Perhaps that is just a tadd too little, eventhough I have seen other people use a nodeMCU with 330 ohm and it is working for me as well.What value are you using for that series resistor?When you are ready/willing to try, I would propose the following:Totally remove your 4n35 from the circuit, add a 500 Watt lamp and plug it in. If my suspicion is right, it should just be on without problems. If that is the case, I suggest plugging the 4n35 back in again and try wit...

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    dont overlook my earlier reply to your comment, just adding something here: Somehow I start to suspect the triggering of the 4N35. To get it into saturation, ideally one needs 10mA. The NodeMCU can deliver that. However with a forward voltage of 1.2 Volts there is 2 volts left over the 330 ohm resistor which comes to 6mA. Perhaps that is just a tadd too little, eventhough I have seen other people use a nodeMCU with 330 ohm and it is working for me as well.What value are you using for that series resistor?When you are ready/willing to try, I would propose the following:Totally remove your 4n35 from the circuit, add a 500 Watt lamp and plug it in. If my suspicion is right, it should just be on without problems. If that is the case, I suggest plugging the 4n35 back in again and try with a 5 Volt arduinoIf that goes well: use a 270 ohm resistor or maybe a 220 ohm, although that is pushing it very close to the max of 12mA the GPIO pin can deliver

    checking yr code right now. Did you actually fully read my previous 2 comments?

    correct, the modified Giesberts circuit was just an intermediate (theoretical) step towards my simpeler circuit. One of the reasons I have chosen for the position of the optocoupler is that the switching would be faster, thus minimizing the time the mosfet would be in resistive mode. Same reason why I had chosen the capacitor to be over the High voltage supply line, rather than a capacitor over the gate (RC time and stuff like that)I didnt add cascade amp. the link you give is from Colomitchi.When I was reading up on IGBT's vs MOSFETS, it seemed that the demands of my circuit were more or less at the cross section of using a MOSFET or an IGBT. Both should be OK. Pricewise the MOSFET was a better choice and though I forgot what IGBT I tested, I didnt see much difference. Howe...

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    correct, the modified Giesberts circuit was just an intermediate (theoretical) step towards my simpeler circuit. One of the reasons I have chosen for the position of the optocoupler is that the switching would be faster, thus minimizing the time the mosfet would be in resistive mode. Same reason why I had chosen the capacitor to be over the High voltage supply line, rather than a capacitor over the gate (RC time and stuff like that)I didnt add cascade amp. the link you give is from Colomitchi.When I was reading up on IGBT's vs MOSFETS, it seemed that the demands of my circuit were more or less at the cross section of using a MOSFET or an IGBT. Both should be OK. Pricewise the MOSFET was a better choice and though I forgot what IGBT I tested, I didnt see much difference. However, I didnt do a durability test with the IGBT. I am sure it performs well also.Anyway, thanks for your feedback. I am happy that it is working for you

    ok thanks. In that case I am rather puzzled why your IRF730 would fry at 500 Watt. For a moment I thought maybe the nodeMCU pin wasnt fully opening the optocoupler, and thus driving the FET in resistive mode, but apparently that is not it. The NodeMCU pin doesnt supply the full 3.3 Volt, thats why I asked to put 3 Volt on it, but I dont think that really makes a difference. I styated the series resistor as 330-470 ohm... but for the nodeMCU I would certainly choose the 330 Ohm value.Honestly I am a bit baffled, I have had my recent breadboard version, with IRF730 running at 500 Watt for maybe 10 minutes (which is longer than your immediate burnout) and it gets a bit warm but nowhere near anything worrysome. Did have a small heatsink attached but I do not think that made the difference...

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    ok thanks. In that case I am rather puzzled why your IRF730 would fry at 500 Watt. For a moment I thought maybe the nodeMCU pin wasnt fully opening the optocoupler, and thus driving the FET in resistive mode, but apparently that is not it. The NodeMCU pin doesnt supply the full 3.3 Volt, thats why I asked to put 3 Volt on it, but I dont think that really makes a difference. I styated the series resistor as 330-470 ohm... but for the nodeMCU I would certainly choose the 330 Ohm value.Honestly I am a bit baffled, I have had my recent breadboard version, with IRF730 running at 500 Watt for maybe 10 minutes (which is longer than your immediate burnout) and it gets a bit warm but nowhere near anything worrysome. Did have a small heatsink attached but I do not think that made the difference.As a last resort, can you send me your program? just wanna make sure there are no unexpected issues there

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  • diy_bloke commented on diy_bloke's instructable AC PWM Dimmer for Arduino1 week ago
    AC PWM Dimmer for Arduino

    ah ok, somehow I had in my head you were using Arduino. I think pin 5 and 6 of the arduino do not always go to full zero on PWM and I was thinking maybe your optocoupler stays open.As said, I put a new circuit together with a 730 and that happily does dim 500 Watt steered by an Arduino. I will try that on an ESP.The only reason I can think of when it is working on 100 and it burns on 500 Watt that somehow your IRF730 is driven into resistive mode

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  • diy_bloke commented on diy_bloke's instructable AC PWM Dimmer for Arduino1 week ago
    AC PWM Dimmer for Arduino

    for this circuit?analogWrite(pin, value)

    "How to change the brightness without the changing of the gate voltage?"With PWM. The gate voltage is only 15 Volt or O Volt, nothing in betweenThe regulation is not with voltage but with PWM: That causes an ON or OFF.I already explained in previous comment that the ON/OFF when done fast translates to different brightness.The 7 Volt that you measure is not 7 volt, it is the average of 0 and 15 Volt, Your meter is too slow to hop between 0 and 15 voltSo you control the brightness with a PWM signal with varying dutycycle. It is the variation in the dutycycle (with a high enough frequency) that makes the lamp brighter or dimmer.If the frequency of your dutycycle is low, you will see the individual ON and OFF but if you increase the frequency (just the frequency, not the duty...

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    "How to change the brightness without the changing of the gate voltage?"With PWM. The gate voltage is only 15 Volt or O Volt, nothing in betweenThe regulation is not with voltage but with PWM: That causes an ON or OFF.I already explained in previous comment that the ON/OFF when done fast translates to different brightness.The 7 Volt that you measure is not 7 volt, it is the average of 0 and 15 Volt, Your meter is too slow to hop between 0 and 15 voltSo you control the brightness with a PWM signal with varying dutycycle. It is the variation in the dutycycle (with a high enough frequency) that makes the lamp brighter or dimmer.If the frequency of your dutycycle is low, you will see the individual ON and OFF but if you increase the frequency (just the frequency, not the dutycycle) you will see that that ON/OFF pattern suddenly becomes one brightness.Same as with any lamp on AC: because of the sinewave the intensity of the lamp varies, but because of the 50Hz frequency you do not see the change but rather just one light level.So if the frequency of your dutycycle (again, just the frequency, nit the dutycycle itself) is high enough (the Arduino is I think at 500Hz or something) the ON/OFF changes into one brightness level.If you then start changing the PWM that one brighnesslevel will vary between off and full on

    "How to change the brightness without the changing of the gate voltage?"With PWM. The gate voltage is only 15 Volt or 0 Volt, nothing in betweenThe regulation is not with voltage but with PWM: That causes an ON or OFF.I already explained in previous comment that the ON/OFF when done fast translates to different brightness.The 7 Volt that you measure is not 7 volt, it is the average of 0 and 15 Volt, Your meter is too slow to hop between 0 and 15 voltSo you control the brightness with a PWM signal with varying dutycycle. It is the variation in the dutycycle (with a high enough frequency) that makes the lamp brighter or dimmer.If the frequency of your dutycycle is low, you will see the individual ON and OFF but if you increase the frequency (just the frequency, not the duty...

    see more »

    "How to change the brightness without the changing of the gate voltage?"With PWM. The gate voltage is only 15 Volt or 0 Volt, nothing in betweenThe regulation is not with voltage but with PWM: That causes an ON or OFF.I already explained in previous comment that the ON/OFF when done fast translates to different brightness.The 7 Volt that you measure is not 7 volt, it is the average of 0 and 15 Volt, Your meter is too slow to hop between 0 and 15 voltSo you control the brightness with a PWM signal with varying dutycycle. It is the variation in the dutycycle (with a high enough frequency) that makes the lamp brighter or dimmer.If the frequency of your dutycycle is low, you will see the individual ON and OFF but if you increase the frequency (just the frequency, not the dutycycle) you will see that that ON/OFF pattern suddenly becomes one brightness.Same as with any lamp on AC: because of the sinewave the intensity of the lamp varies, but because of the 50Hz frequency you do not see the change but rather just one light level.So if the frequency of your dutycycle (again, just the frequency, nit the dutycycle itself) is high enough (the Arduino is I think at 500Hz or something) the ON/OFF changes into one brightness level.If you then start changing the PWM that one brighnesslevel will vary between off and full on

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  • diy_bloke commented on diy_bloke's instructable AC PWM Dimmer for Arduino1 week ago
    AC PWM Dimmer for Arduino

    well that is basically what I have been telling you: The gate voltage should either be 15 volts or 0 volts. it should not and never be 7 volts.I am not sure where you get your 7 volts but your gate should be at 15 or 0. ON or OFF.I understand your purpose, you want to dim and thats what this is a dimmer, but it should be regulated with a PWM signal, not with a 7 Volt signal."If the IRF 730 must be open or closed at all times, it can not be seen as a dimmer."Obviously you have no idea how this dimmer works or what PWM is.The intention is that your lamp is OFF or ON, but at such a high speed that your eyes see it as more or less brightness of the lamp. A proper PWM signal fully opens or closes the OptocouplerIt makes no difference in the workings if you use an IRF730 or an STP1...

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    well that is basically what I have been telling you: The gate voltage should either be 15 volts or 0 volts. it should not and never be 7 volts.I am not sure where you get your 7 volts but your gate should be at 15 or 0. ON or OFF.I understand your purpose, you want to dim and thats what this is a dimmer, but it should be regulated with a PWM signal, not with a 7 Volt signal."If the IRF 730 must be open or closed at all times, it can not be seen as a dimmer."Obviously you have no idea how this dimmer works or what PWM is.The intention is that your lamp is OFF or ON, but at such a high speed that your eyes see it as more or less brightness of the lamp. A proper PWM signal fully opens or closes the OptocouplerIt makes no difference in the workings if you use an IRF730 or an STP10NK60Z, they are both MOSFETS, they work the same. The only difference is the load. 1000 Watt might be pushing it a bit for the 730, but the STP should be able to handle 4.5AMPSI still have no idea how you manage to put 7 volts on the gate, are you sure that is not an average voltage?I just made this dimmer again quickly on breadboard, with an IRF730 and it just works as it should, So before you blow up more MOSFETS, please check the gate voltage when your arduino sends a constant 5 Volt to the input of this circuit

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  • Reverse Flow Offset Smoker From an Old Water Boiler

    "All that work just to make two lips red' is ofcourse a reply one could give but then again sometimes it is best to just say nothing ;-)Anyway, it look sfantastic

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  • diy_bloke commented on rabbitcreek's instructable Solar Tide Clock2 weeks ago
    Solar Tide Clock

    pretty good. at first I thought it might just be a copy of what LukeMiller did, but you turned a program into a practical application. The servo gear is impressive on its own

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  • Turn a Water Bottle Into a Wine Glass

    I would say that this is an almost biblical instructable

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  • diy_bloke commented on mikeasaurus's instructable 10 Woodworking Tricks the Pros Use2 weeks ago
    10 Woodworking Tricks the Pros Use

    the set is the deviation of the tooth/teeth from the middle line of the blade. The left and right set +the thickness of the blade, make the kerf.At the same time 'kerf' is also a notch made by a knife

    the set is the deviation of the tooth/teeth from the middle line of the blade. The left and right set +the thickness of the blade, make the kerf

    I use a similar method for drawing straigth lines on pvc pipe

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  • diy_bloke commented on diy_bloke's instructable AC PWM Dimmer for Arduino2 weeks ago
    AC PWM Dimmer for Arduino

    before you start burning up more MOSFETS you better first meticulously check the connections because an IRF730 should not blow up on a less than 2 amp current.Also, check the values of your resistors because the first thing I think about here is that the gate voltage somehow is way too high. If you are carefull, maybe you can try and measure that gatevoltage... but remember you are working on a live circuit then. If you do not feel comfortable doing that or if you are not sure about what you are doing then dontIf you cant find an 8 amp, take a 10 amp like the STP10NK60..... but first check your circuit. It is no use putting in mosfet after mosfet hoping that one will miraculously survive

    don't overlook my extensive reply from a few minutes ago, just wanted to say I understand what you are driving at with your 'I need an amplifier?'However... you don't. The circuit of colomitchi is a different circuit, he is dealing with an RC time that is defined bu the input capacity as well as his R8. My circuit is especially built for fast switching. When the optocoupler closes the RC time is practically zero thus the input capacitor is discharged practically directly.

    if it works with a 100 Watt Lamp I really cant see that a 500 Watt lamp would immediately blow up a mosfet that is capable of handling 5.5 ampere.I am not sure about your gate voltage. do you mean that it sort of varies? it should be either say 15 volts or zero, depending whether you measure in off or on state. So remove your arduino and please measure the Gate voltage. should be a constant voltage of around 15 VoltIf your Gate voltage is varying that would be a big strain on your mosfet that then can get into resistive state and yes that would be bad for a mosfet.The STP10NK60 has an input capacity of 1370pF which is more than twice that of the IRF730.although the 600pF of the IRG730 is better, its RDSon is 1 ohm whereas the STP has a lower RDSonI am not sure why you think you w...

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    if it works with a 100 Watt Lamp I really cant see that a 500 Watt lamp would immediately blow up a mosfet that is capable of handling 5.5 ampere.I am not sure about your gate voltage. do you mean that it sort of varies? it should be either say 15 volts or zero, depending whether you measure in off or on state. So remove your arduino and please measure the Gate voltage. should be a constant voltage of around 15 VoltIf your Gate voltage is varying that would be a big strain on your mosfet that then can get into resistive state and yes that would be bad for a mosfet.The STP10NK60 has an input capacity of 1370pF which is more than twice that of the IRF730.although the 600pF of the IRG730 is better, its RDSon is 1 ohm whereas the STP has a lower RDSonI am not sure why you think you would need an amplifier. I know colomitchi's instructable quite well but I am not sure what yr link wants to point out.Mosfets operate like switches, if they get proper gate voltage they open and if the dont get gate voltage they close. The resistance of that switch (the RDSon) in a good mosfet is small.The problem is when the MOSFET does not get a proper gate voltage but something half half. At that moment the MOSFET does not work like a switch anymore but like some sort of resistor. Obviously when acting like a resistor the current will develop a lot of heat. When the temperature of the mosfet goes up... so does the resistance, leading to even more heat development.therefore it is important to have a the mosfet fully opened or closed and hence the proper gate voltage is important. So if you say it is 1-15 volt that sounds a lot of alarmbells.If the Gatevoltage is at say 4 Volts, the IRF730 can only handle 200mA

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  • diy_bloke commented on nerdyKat's instructable Wooden Bird Feeder2 weeks ago
  • diy_bloke commented on sabladask's instructable DIY Homemade ELECTRIC Hydrofoil2 weeks ago
    DIY Homemade ELECTRIC Hydrofoil

    thats very nifty

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  • diy_bloke commented on lonesoulsurfer's instructable Uber Lighter 2.02 weeks ago
    Uber Lighter 2.0

    Although ligthers like this can be easily bought, you definitely made a piece of art here

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  • Arduino Webserver Controller Using Ethernet ENC28J60 and Arduino

    Can I also politely refer to Luca Dentella'sblog who published a lot on the ENC28J60 http://www.lucadentella.it/category/enc28j60-ardui...

    please do not see my earlier remark as criticism. I have used and am still using the enc28j60 as well. I cannot judge the price difference in yr country but if you have access to aliexpress, check it out there. Ofcourse depending on where you are maybe aliexpress is not an option or still more expensive than locally.Regardless, you already built your webserver so my comment was more aimed at those that maybe still need to buy a controller.Nevertheless, great instructable on a very usefull chip

    Can I also politely refer to Luca Dentella'sblog who published a lot on the ENC28J60 http://www.lucadentella.it/category/enc28j60-arduino/

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  • IOT Made Simple: Playing With the ESP32 on Arduino IDE

    interesting. Sadly the timestamp example in step 9 throws an error. Had chosen the ESP32 DevModule byut get this error: In file included from /home/xxxxx/Arduino/ESP32_TimeStamp/ESP32_TimeStamp.ino:5:0:/home/xxxxx/Arduino/libraries/ESP8266_Weather_Station/src/NTPClient.h:5:25: fatal error: ESP8266WiFi.h: No such file or directoryThat file however IS present.Any idea where the problem might be?

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  • Arduino Webserver Controller Using Ethernet ENC28J60 and Arduino

    Good write up. I have several ENC28J60 boards and modules and they are fun to work with. The ENC28J60 is a nifty chip and it used to be a cheap way of adding internet connectivity to an arduino.I say 'used to be' because there are better options. The ENC28J60 is more memory hungry than the W5100. At one time there was a huge price difference with the W5100 boards and modules being much more expensive, but nowadays the W5100 modules are sometimes even cheaper than the ENC28J60 modules.Nevertheless if you have the enc28J60, there is no reason not to use it.Other than the listed libraries, consider the UIPethernet library by Norbert Truchess. It allows one to use programs written for the W5100, with a 28J60, simply by changing the library name

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  • Installing  MQTT Broker(Mosquitto) on Raspberry Pi

    sudo aptitide install mosquitto did not solve it for me, same error, though eventually i got some options offered that seemed to install a package

    for stretch use sudo wget http://repo.mosquitto.org/debian/mosquitto-stretch.list

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  • diy_bloke commented on Tesalex's instructable Make a RGB LED Strip Controller.2 weeks ago
    Make a RGB LED Strip Controller.

    Thanks for your detailed explanation. I already figured that it would be something like that. The IRFZ44 indeed can use a higher voltage, but it will allow a decent drain source current within the Arduino's IO capacities. I normally use logic level FET's via a small resistor, directly from an Arduino IO pin and I haven't experienced problems, but I admit that I only have done so in a small number of projects, thus my experience on that combo is limitedThe TC4420 can deliver some 6 amps. That seems quite enough just to feed a gate ;-)Anyway, great project and thanks for explaining

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  • diy_bloke commented on Tesalex's instructable Make a RGB LED Strip Controller.2 weeks ago
    Make a RGB LED Strip Controller.

    Pretty neat, butI am a bit puzzled by the use/function of the TC4420 mosfet driver, is there a reason why you do not drive the Mosfet directly from the Arduino I/O pin (via a resistor)?The IRFZ44 Mosfet can drive some 15 Amps with a 4V gate voltage. 4 volt is no problem for the Arduino.Not saying what you do is wrong, just trying to understand the reason

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  • diy_bloke commented on diy_bloke's instructable AC PWM Dimmer for Arduino2 weeks ago
    AC PWM Dimmer for Arduino

    I see no reason why it should not. The frequency is not a problem. Using 127 Volt means that you have to alter the voltage divider that provides the gate voltage. depending on the Mosfet used that should be around 12 Volt

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  • Connected Cat Feeder Using a Strain Gauge and an ESP32

    Very interesting. I was wondering what the minimum weight is that you can measure. Any idea?

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  • diy_bloke commented on diy_bloke's instructable AC PWM Dimmer for Arduino2 weeks ago
    AC PWM Dimmer for Arduino

    Sorry to hear you killed your IRF730, but it is not entirely unexpected at 1000 Watt. The max current at 25 degrees is 5.5 Amp. that should be able to deliver 1000 watt, but it is marginal. Also, when the temperature rises the max current that can be handled goes down. At e.g. 100 degrees it is 3.5 Amp, I am not sure if you had a heatsink on your IRF730, but I am afraid you pushed it beyond its limits.Also... taking an 8 ampere bridge is a good idea, but using a 5 amp diode is totally unnecessary. The diode does not supply any load other than the current to the gate.If you want to use a 1000 Watt load, I suggest a mosfet that is a little bit more robust, say an 8 amp. Pick one with a low RDSon and a low input capacity

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  • 3 Channel Dimmer/fader for Arduino or Other Microcontroller

    Mayurr I am happy you got it working. The supplied program ofcourse is only a demo program. I keep the dimming values in the Array AC_dim[PINS];Whether in your final setup that is the best to do completely depends on your program

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  • diy_bloke commented on Evansy-7's instructable Linnaeus Laptop Chair3 weeks ago
    Linnaeus Laptop Chair

    and how difficult is it to know that 'detalj' means detail and 'Skala' scale ;-)

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  • diy_bloke commented on diy_bloke's instructable AC PWM Dimmer for Arduino3 weeks ago
    AC PWM Dimmer for Arduino

    Sorry about that. Nevertheless I am a bit surprised if this would be dependent on the load of the lamp becayse that does not influence the current through the 110k resistor at all.At most the current through the 100k is some 2.3 mA (roughly, probably a bit less), the heat dissipated in the resistor thus is a little over 0.5 Watt. So indeed the resistor will get hot. At best you use a 1 Watt resistor there. Apologies if I did not make that clear in the text

    be aware though of using it as an incubator. The construction is such that if the input is lost, the lamp will be full on and you will cook yr eggs. Ofcourse if it was the other way around, your eggs would be too cold, but geberally eggs are better suited to expereince a period of 'too cold' than a period of 'too hot'

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  • diy_bloke commented on 陳亮's instructable Circuit Visualization3 weeks ago
    Circuit Visualization

    looks gorgeous. regarding readabilty of breadboard connections though,, I find a classic circuit easier to read (and understand), but that ofcourse is purely personal.nevertheless, yr end product looks great

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  • Send Sensor Data (DHT11 & BMP180) to ThingSpeak With an Arduino, Using Cable or WiFi (ESP8266) or Use ESP8266 Alone (UPDATED AUGUST 2016)

    Just one further remark Erik, I already said I think that I do not use the ESP8266 anymore just to connect an arduino via WiFi. At the time of the ESP8266-01 when there was hardly a core available, that seemed the best thing to do, but the ESP8266 has been developed further. Anyway, you know that and there might be many reasons why you still want to do it.yet, i have never been fond of the AT commands, and the soft serial solution another way to do it is if you want to use an Arduino and still have WiFi is to connect them with I2C. You can just let the Arduino do its thing and put values in a register and the ESP82666 can just pick them up and send them over WiFi.You could choose either one as slave or as master, depending on your configuration and needs.

    a NodeMCU board connects via WiFi

    I am not referring to any step, just saying the NodeMCU connecs through wifi,not through ethernet, if you also want to connect the NodeMCU through ethernet -though i do not dee the point of that- you need to connect e.g. a wiz5100 module

    just set it at 9600 Bd in the IDEBut I am getting confused, you just wrote that you are using a UNO with ethernet shield

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  • Hacking a Sonoff Touch Panel to Work With MQTT and Homeassistant

    I am stupid, hit me over the head with a hot soldering iron.The hivemq link looked very familiar, so I looked again at my earlier programs in which I do the Publish(topic,message) through a procedure that ofcourse after I wrote it, I hardly looked at anymore. I totally forgot that I added the retention boolean in that procedure.Getting old and forgetful. Stupid me

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  • 3 Channel Dimmer/fader for Arduino or Other Microcontroller

    The one I used is the DF02, that is 400 V 1 A but basically any 400 Volt with appropriate current will do

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  • Hacking a Sonoff Touch Panel to Work With MQTT and Homeassistant

    Anyway, tnx. I thought I knew quite a lot about MQTT and PubSub, but I didnt know about that boolean parameter

    Ah great, thanks. I never realised that.To a large extend I agree with the OTA concern :-)Ofcourse with the simple functionality of the Sonoff Touch there isnt much need for updates, but with the WiFi manager not working for me, that is a simple way to change the network credentials if necessary. There was still room enough.The OTA tells me which device is on line, but true you could by accident flash the wrong device.I have no idea why the WiFi manager wasnt working, truthfully I havent had much luck with it at all.Anyway, I am quite happy with yr program, could have written something myself or taken tasmota, but with the slight adaptations mentioned it worked great for me

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  • diy_bloke commented on fjordcarver's instructable Using an RGB LED to Detect Colours3 weeks ago
    Using an RGB LED to Detect Colours

    I just love the Arduino you have. Obviously high class DIY

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  • Hacking a Sonoff Touch Panel to Work With MQTT and Homeassistant

    I saw you published MQTT as client.publish(MQTT_LIGHT_STATE_TOPIC, LIGHT_OFF, true);I usually only doclient.publish(topic,payload)What is the use of the 3rd parameter?;Also, I never got the WiFi manager part to work. Just wouldnt connect so I took it out :-) . Made a direct logon.

    answered

    I saw you published MQTT as client.publish(MQTT_LIGHT_STATE_TOPIC, LIGHT_OFF, true);I usually only doclient.publish(topic,payload)What is the use of the 3rd parameter?;Also, I never got the WiFi manager part to work. Just wouldnt connect so I took it out :-) . Made a direct logon, and added OTA

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  • 3 Channel Dimmer/fader for Arduino or Other Microcontroller

    400V, the amperage depends on your load

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  • diy_bloke commented on might111's instructable Automatic CHICKEN DOOR Dirt Cheap4 weeks ago
    Automatic CHICKEN DOOR Dirt Cheap

    nice simple design

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  • diy_bloke commented on Mr oinkerson's instructable A Nicer Saw Handle4 weeks ago
  • diy_bloke commented on weaveringrally's instructable ZWave Exterior Gate Sensor4 weeks ago
    ZWave Exterior Gate Sensor

    I have little (none actually) experience with Zwave, but I can see you did a great install job

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  • 3 Channel Dimmer/fader for Arduino or Other Microcontroller

    look at how the bridge is connected to the resistors and optocoupler. That is what you need to do. ignore the rest

    yes, do it as in the picture I sent

    I am not sure how i can make it clearer: the 3 channel dimmer has 2 resistors coming from the grid, going ro the the IL251. You want to use an EL812 so you need a bridge in between the 2 resistors and the EL812.In the picture you see exactly how to do that.Look at the two resistors, the bridge and the optocoupler, ignore the rest.You see 2 resistors, they go to the AC connectors of the bridge, the + and - of the bridge then go to the optocoupler which in your case is the EL812. The 400V you were asking about is the spec of the bridge. I think the picture I sent is a proper circuit, but as you are a first year student I now have spelled it out on a resend of that picure. As I said before, I start to get really worried about you building this as you sem to have trouble understanding circu...

    see more »

    I am not sure how i can make it clearer: the 3 channel dimmer has 2 resistors coming from the grid, going ro the the IL251. You want to use an EL812 so you need a bridge in between the 2 resistors and the EL812.In the picture you see exactly how to do that.Look at the two resistors, the bridge and the optocoupler, ignore the rest.You see 2 resistors, they go to the AC connectors of the bridge, the + and - of the bridge then go to the optocoupler which in your case is the EL812. The 400V you were asking about is the spec of the bridge. I think the picture I sent is a proper circuit, but as you are a first year student I now have spelled it out on a resend of that picure. As I said before, I start to get really worried about you building this as you sem to have trouble understanding circuits, can I again draw your attention to my warning at the beginning of this instructable. If you are not sure about what you are doing I would strongly advise you not to build this. It is connected to the grid and that carries a lethal voltage

    click on the link i sent earlier and do it like that

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  • Send Sensor Data (DHT11 & BMP180) to ThingSpeak With an Arduino, Using Cable or WiFi (ESP8266) or Use ESP8266 Alone (UPDATED AUGUST 2016)

    Not sure which 'wireless' sketch you refer to. You mean the one in Step3?Step 3 is about an Arduino connected to an ESP8266-01 module, wher would you want to use the nodeMCU? to replace the Arduino? That would be extremely odd. or to replace the 8266-01? that would be total overkill.Or just to replace both? The code is totally unsuitable for that as it is about the AT driven communication between the 2 modules.Note that this is a relatively old instructable and now I wouldnt dream of using an arduino in combo with an ESP, I would just use an ESP8266 as stand alone.The reason that A1 is not declared in this scope is because the NodeMCU does not have an A1, it only has one analogport A0

    yes, that is very well possible, take out the DHT11 and BMP code and do an analogread.I must say though that I have no idea what platform you are using now. An Arduino with ethernetshield? Or just a nodeMCU?

    that is really too little information to know what is going on. If you set 'verbose output' in your preferences the error becomes more clear

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  • diy_bloke commented on diy_bloke's instructable Arduino Controlled Light Dimmer4 weeks ago
    Arduino Controlled Light Dimmer

    yes you need to check the serial inputbuffer for incomingcharacters. D something like:if (Serial.available() > 0) { incomingByte = Serial.read(); Serial.println(); switch (incomingByte) { case 97://a<set your desired dimvalue> break; case 98: //b<set your desired dimvalue>break;default: break; } }

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  • Hacking a Sonoff Touch Panel to Work With MQTT and Homeassistant

    There is an error in your LiveSketch.inoline 14, #define fDebug true;should be#define fDebug true

    OpenHAB has no trouble with MQTT so it will work with this

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