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I like the idea, looked fine until you just stuffed the components into the case. What about isolation distance, have you checked? It seems like a bad idea having something conductive touchable from the outside in case something goes wrong. Maybe some heat transfer compound would be good, perhaps even the two component epoxy type, looks like you just rolled some desoldering braid around that resistor and stuffed it in the slot.
Seems like a neat idea, just worried about how even the light is, have you tried it, does it work? Can you wash away all the coating you planned to?Maybe board or UV panels need to be moving to get an even exposure?Other questions are, is the light strong enough, how long does it take for an exposure? I have only handled professional equipment and homemade versions with fluorescent tubes before. Haven't explored the option with UV-leds.
I'd love to buy one, not sure I want to make one, don't have the kind of nice large workshop. As it took less than ten minutes to make one I guess I could drive up to Trollhättan from Älvängen and see it being made. ;-)
alias här och sedan snabel-A gmail.com
Tack Simon, behöver du elektronik-hjälp så är det bara att fråga.
Why even use something electric, a magnet and a mechanical setup could lock it.
Buying one costs about $20. https://www.hwlarsen.se/se/product/ostskrare/ostskrare-50288
If you're unhygienic, perhaps you could wash your hands before handing the cheese with a normal cheap "osthyvel" - chesse usually has plastic wrapped on it though so you don't need to touch the cheese with anything but the cheese grader or whatever the official term is.This instructable contraption doesn't move the cheese forward by itself, so you'd need to handle that all over as well. Probably pull it loose from the board and move it ahead depending on stickyness.It's a quite decorative version of the danish string type of cheese grader.There are finished ones to get as well if you're lazy.http://www.gemzell.se/blogg/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/image_0137.jpg
That's cheap, never seen one like it before and I didn't know they were so cheap to buy. I'm aware it's instructables, I'm a member since 2011. I very much like instructions how you repair or make something cheaper than buying it, clever solutions or to make stuff you can't buy. If there was an instructable how to make a pencil in just 23 hours using tools for $500 - I'd rather buy a pack for $10.
Most things aren't good to inhale, water for example, but I'm not sure water will cause cancer. ;-)I understand why it was easier to skip the wool for the manufacturer in the first place. I have been looking differently an those mini-ovens now... I've got a few used spare regulators at work and I'm tempted.
"...is classed as hazardous. It may cause cancer by inhalation and is irritating to the skin..." sounds bad, there was no better option?
Very nice instructable, I was considering getting an oven for SMD soldering, now I have gotten a few good ideas.
Yes, if you drill a hole in a PET bottle cap or similar you could mount the switch inside that and make it less likely to be pushed by mistake.
Pretty nice build, can't say how dangerous it is but I have some thoughts. I would have put the mains cable joint inside the box with tie wrap, not just hot glue. Fastening a heat sink with hot glue seems adventurous. ;-) but I guess it shouldn't go very hot if you just hold the button for a short time. Tips might burn out after some uses, could be handy to have them easily replaceable, maybe using a pair of standard nails/needles/screws. I'd also put two buttons, one on each side of the box that you need to hold simultaneously so you don't accidentally activate it. Or perhaps a switch in combination with the push button for the same reason. A switch on the mains cable could also be a nice thing as the transformer will heat up when standing idle.
Seems nice, might be cheaper to buy new cells than to get one of those chargers though.
Wonderful Chinglish, if you feel down, grab one of those manuals and have a good laugh. ;-)It's a nice instructable, very useful if you have more time than money on your hands. I was worried about the heat problem but I see it was addressed already in the comments with a good tip how to better mount those batteries together again. I put a PSU and a cord on mine, rarely use the tool so the batteries are always either discharged or need to be in the charger. If sizes match you can put the PSU inside the battery compartment.
Clever - they should sell them like that, with a battery holder instead so you don't have to move it near an outlet.
Doesn't look very nice, maybe some polish with steel wool helps.
I work at a PCB factory so I don't really have the need but I've seen the toner transfer method before and it seems very common to get cracks in the toner that causes breaks on the traces. Is it possible to fill those in with a pen of some sort? You could just draw che traces with a pen directly on the copper if it's not complicated, or tape it, or use the rub on versions.
Doesn't currently work with the cam-file provided, hole coordinates are sized up maybe 10 times. If changing cam for drills to EXCELLON_24 instead of EXCELLON it works fine from EagleCAD 7.6.It doesn't seem to do the outline board is just rectangualr, if selecting Outline it just shows the inside of the holes. Pretty nice anyway.
It's a really time consuming place to store your deck of cards, one or two hours in either direction?
It would be clear to anyone he meant...... wait for it....250mAh...and not 0.250mAhDots were added as decoration - in anticipation of the result, not as a decimal comma.
For next google:r, different original PS3 controllers seem to function in different ways, some can apparently be used with plain chargers, someone managed to get charging working by connecting DATA+ to GND.I tried that, also tried grounding "pin X" or 4 pr ID as it can be called (that isn't connected in most mini USB cables) as that was the solution for a GPS my boss used - that also didn't work, grounding "DATA-" neither "both DATA" and also not connecting 100k from the +5V to each DATA-pin as suggested by Roshy10 here.According to sources "USB charger used must act as a USB host device" so charging from various other devices such as cable box, computer etc etc will work fine. Sony sells their own wall charger of course. Must be the most power wa...see more »For next google:r, different original PS3 controllers seem to function in different ways, some can apparently be used with plain chargers, someone managed to get charging working by connecting DATA+ to GND.I tried that, also tried grounding "pin X" or 4 pr ID as it can be called (that isn't connected in most mini USB cables) as that was the solution for a GPS my boss used - that also didn't work, grounding "DATA-" neither "both DATA" and also not connecting 100k from the +5V to each DATA-pin as suggested by Roshy10 here.According to sources "USB charger used must act as a USB host device" so charging from various other devices such as cable box, computer etc etc will work fine. Sony sells their own wall charger of course. Must be the most power wasting charging ever having to have the PS3, computer or cable box running just to charge when a small plain USB charger would have been enough - we have loads of those, right? I have the controller model called CECHZC2E A1.You can buy a host chip though, for example the TI TPS2540, which was the first I found. I guess they saved putting a chip like that into the controller and let the host manage the charging instead. Haven't checked the datasheet but maybe it's enough to add one of those to make it work.
Hmm... doesn't that stuff you iron on get wrinkled even worse next time it's washed - and it's even worse getting the wrinkles out? Isn't ironing it enough?
Just because you can build something dangerous, doesn't mean you have to - and if you do, not necessarily use it. Problem is that other people may try and do the same from inspiration, not thinking about the consequences. If you have a workshop with tools like that I'm sure you should already have some sense of preservation. Very nicely built though.
Before twisting wires together, prepare shrink tubing over at least one wire - always annoying having to redo the job because of that. ;-) It's pretty much like the "Lineman splice" I guess.
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