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  • Modification of the Lexmark E260 Laser Printer for Direct Laser Printing of Double Sided Printed Circuit Boards

    Hi Guys,Thanks so much for this mod! Like many others I troubled with prototyping PCBs for years and had no satisfying solution for reproduceable Boards. Sometimes it took days of sacrefying my free-time to get a Proto-PCB finished (well with Pd-activated TH-Plating, silkscreen and Stopmask...I like to pose with that stuff to my friends^^) I used an e360d that was stood under my desk for years now. I reordered a new one for just 25 bugs, great!But I have a little Problem finishing the printsIn detail: There is the paperjam-massage after it printed the first 15 cm. So for small layouts, everything is fine but larger ones are not to be completed.Has anyone similiar troubles and knows a solution? I cant even cancel the print so that the carrier will be released. I had to pull it out by ha...

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    Hi Guys,Thanks so much for this mod! Like many others I troubled with prototyping PCBs for years and had no satisfying solution for reproduceable Boards. Sometimes it took days of sacrefying my free-time to get a Proto-PCB finished (well with Pd-activated TH-Plating, silkscreen and Stopmask...I like to pose with that stuff to my friends^^) I used an e360d that was stood under my desk for years now. I reordered a new one for just 25 bugs, great!But I have a little Problem finishing the printsIn detail: There is the paperjam-massage after it printed the first 15 cm. So for small layouts, everything is fine but larger ones are not to be completed.Has anyone similiar troubles and knows a solution? I cant even cancel the print so that the carrier will be released. I had to pull it out by hand. That is not very comfortable and maybe this can cause damage to the drum from time to time or something. In addition, sometimes when my timing fails the print doesnt start the e360 gives out a"drum service" message and I have to reboot the printer for going on.I know most of you will have the 260 but maybe someone who knows my problem reads this or at least someone who may has an idea what could be the problem.Thanks for any reply!Ericmitc

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  • Industrial-level quality PCB through hole plating

    For still interested people trying to do this with Sodium hypophosphite : it works fine! You need to take about 4/3 of the amount of CuSO4 of you Sodium Hyp. :)Greetz,Eric

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  • Industrial-level quality PCB through hole plating

    But by the way I am actually not sure that it will not work with sodium hypophosphite substite the calcium hyp. You will definately have to change the amounts but after what I read it should be possible anyhow

    If still interested: there is a way using Sodium Hypophosphite. to make an activator-solution like this one.After some testing and reading through the literatur our Lib, I figured out an easy way that works with stuff that can be freely bought. In germany, like in many other countries its hard to get calcium hyp. when you dont want to order from china for actually at least 100€ (for 1 kg - gets less when order big quantities) with shipping-costs.Well this is no receipe because Im still trying to normalize the procedure with best working parameters, but its at least one possible way to go.You need:sodium hypophosphite, Ammonium Hydroxide Copper-Sulfateand HCL acid,At first we need to get Hypophosphorous acid (the stuff your government won't like because its used to make crystal meth...

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    If still interested: there is a way using Sodium Hypophosphite. to make an activator-solution like this one.After some testing and reading through the literatur our Lib, I figured out an easy way that works with stuff that can be freely bought. In germany, like in many other countries its hard to get calcium hyp. when you dont want to order from china for actually at least 100€ (for 1 kg - gets less when order big quantities) with shipping-costs.Well this is no receipe because Im still trying to normalize the procedure with best working parameters, but its at least one possible way to go.You need:sodium hypophosphite, Ammonium Hydroxide Copper-Sulfateand HCL acid,At first we need to get Hypophosphorous acid (the stuff your government won't like because its used to make crystal meth) from the sodium-hypophosphite and the HCL-acid.Therefore you heat the sodium-hyp. to about 80C and put you HCL to it.As a result you'll get Hypophosphorous acid and salt.Cool down the solution to just over 0C for less soluability of salt and filter out the salt. Now you got a good acid with the clou that it can react with copper-salts to copper-hypophosphite, the main part of the reaction that syevtushenko described!But there will be the problem that the Hyp.Acid directly wants to reduce a solution of copper-salts to copper in front of your eyes. That is why you need to make the sulfate-solution not with water but with the ammonium-hydroxid-solution. It builds complexes that cant be reduced this way. So put some of the Copper Sulfate (doesnt matter with hydrated or not) with the ammonium hydroxid together till all the CuSo4 got dissolved. Try to make a nearly saturated solution.Then you put a little hypophosphorous acid to it and stirr.When you go on as described by syevtushenko with putting your clean pcb into it and heating up the stuff, the ammonium hydroxid fastly evaporates and you'll get your nano-copper on the surface.Of course you should use some soap, ethanol or tensides to make a solution that flews easily through the holes like described.If there is still a need for informations, feel free to ask. I hope that someone is helped by these informations that took much time for me to get Kind regards,Eric Pidun

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