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  • etetan commented on Vulcaman's instructable Cherry- 60€ 3D-Printer6 months ago
    Cherry- 60€ 3D-Printer

    I could even do it in PETG

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  • etetan commented on Vulcaman's instructable Cherry- 60€ 3D-Printer6 months ago
    Cherry- 60€ 3D-Printer

    Its one i built out of aluminum. Honestly great quality. Id print it using 3DSolutech PLA (in my opinion it is way better than hatchbox) at 0.2 mm layer height. I have purple, cyan and black filament right now

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  • etetan commented on Vulcaman's instructable Cherry- 60€ 3D-Printer6 months ago
    Cherry- 60€ 3D-Printer

    Would anybody be interesting in purchasing the 3d printed parts if I were to print them out? I am willing to but only if there is some demand to do so. I would sell all the parts for about $20-$25 CAD and sell them on ebay. Reply to this comment if you are interested

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  • etetan commented on Vulcaman's instructable Cherry- 60€ 3D-Printer7 months ago
    Cherry- 60€ 3D-Printer

    You wouldnt want to with such a small build volume. You would basically be cutting the build volume by 1/4

    Id recommend a mean well 20A power supply for this build.

    Hey, so the problem is most likely the fact that the extruder stepper will not move unless the hot end is heated. If you want to make sure the extruder works, heat the hot end to the temperature you intend to print on (for PLA aprox. 210 degrees Celsius) and then you can test it. This is just a safety feature built into most 3d printer firmwares so that the extruder is not trying to feed filament when it cant actually extrude it.

    You can use MDF though. ive build one of these using MDF for everything including the build plate

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  • etetan commented on Vulcaman's instructable Cherry- 60€ 3D-Printer1 year ago
    Cherry- 60€ 3D-Printer

    Hmm, have you tried any other printer applications such as simplify3D (yeah it costs money but there are ways around the cost if you know what im saying ;)

    If the prints are smaller than expected, check to make sure the units in your CAD program are exporting correctly. Another problem could be your micro-stepping settings. Make sure when you are calculating your axis resolution, you are taking your micro-stepping into consideration, otherwise the scale of the parts will be off by a multiple of 2.

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  • etetan commented on Vulcaman's instructable Cherry- 60€ 3D-Printer1 year ago
    Cherry- 60€ 3D-Printer

    To adjust VREF, you need to adjust the pots on the stepsticks

    Pretty much, just upload the firmware to the board and thats it. In the firmware file provided on this page, there is a file called repetier.ino, run it and upload to the arduino mega

    You can buy 5mm to 5mm couplers from aliexpress, id suggest that

    What program are you printing with. Id suggest changing the baud rate and also making sure there is no electromagnetic interference near the USB cable, so keep the USB cable away from the power supply, and as far as possible from any wire leading to motors. Let us know if any of these solutions work

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  • etetan commented on Vulcaman's instructable Cherry- 60€ 3D-Printer1 year ago
    Cherry- 60€ 3D-Printer

    There is basically two rods per axis (x,y,z) and the threaded rod is what controls the z axis. All other axis move using belts. The reason why you wouldn't want to use a belt for the z axis is first of all, accuracy and secondly, precision. Belts wear out a lot quicker than threaded fasteners, and when they do, they become inaccurate and imprecise.

    China is your best bet

    Careful not to increase the size by too much without increasing the diameter of the smooth rods. Otherwise you will end up with sag near the center of the rods. 300mm on any axis maximum if you plan on using 8mm rods. Any larger and you will need to increase the size accordingly.

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  • etetan commented on Vulcaman's instructable Cherry- 60€ 3D-Printer1 year ago
    Cherry- 60€ 3D-Printer

    Get the E3D Lite6. It is cheap, works terrific for PLA and there is almost zero risk of it not working properly whereas the Chinese clones are always hit or miss (usually miss). Also, E3D is the company who actually designed the product, so they know the exact specifications including the proper dimension and tolerances and the materials used. The people who clone the E3D hotends do not do a good job at replicating the dimensions and tolerances and definitely do not use the correct material in manufaturing. The Chines clones come with terribly inaccurate thermistor which you will have to spend a lot of time calibrating the beta settings in order to achieve an accurate temperature reading, and the E3D Lite6 comes with a semitec thermistor (good brand). So all in all, it is work it to go ...

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    Get the E3D Lite6. It is cheap, works terrific for PLA and there is almost zero risk of it not working properly whereas the Chinese clones are always hit or miss (usually miss). Also, E3D is the company who actually designed the product, so they know the exact specifications including the proper dimension and tolerances and the materials used. The people who clone the E3D hotends do not do a good job at replicating the dimensions and tolerances and definitely do not use the correct material in manufaturing. The Chines clones come with terribly inaccurate thermistor which you will have to spend a lot of time calibrating the beta settings in order to achieve an accurate temperature reading, and the E3D Lite6 comes with a semitec thermistor (good brand). So all in all, it is work it to go with the Lite6 if you are on a budget, otherwise get the V6 and avoid Chinese clones like the plague.

    No but if you don't, expect to invest a lot of time into research before you get anywhere.

    I'm sure the NEMA 14s would work okay for the Z-axis and maybe the X-axis, but you might need to lower the acceleration of the Y-axis because of the NEMA 14s lower torque (compared to same shaft sized NEMA 17s). Also, in my 3D printer (redesign of this one), the X-axis motor is actually mounted on the X-end, so it is not moving side my side (only up when the Z-axis moves), so technically speaking, the mass of my motors do not matter because they are not accelerating. Also, where are you able to get NEMA 14s for a cheaper price than NEMA 17s?

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  • etetan commented on Vulcaman's instructable Cherry- 60€ 3D-Printer1 year ago
    Cherry- 60€ 3D-Printer

    http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-r9egw5ddy8o/U2LOqPZLVBI/AAAAAAAAc5s/Ve9wUhBlF_I/s1600/REPRAP+schematic.png

    All you need to do is open up the file names "repetier" and the upload it to the board using the arduino ide

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