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70CommentsLeesville, SCJoined July 17th, 2009
Retired from USAF after 24 years in 2007. Involved with old cars since 1979, Ramblers and AMCs are my specialty. Build and modify my own computers since the mid 80s -- started with Tandy Color Computer 2. Part time instructor at Aiken Technical College (welding, other construction related courses).
  • Digital Wall Calendar and Home Information Center

    DAKboard: https://dakboard.com/siteBasically the same as this 'ible, but it apparently runs from a web service you sign up for. I'd prefer something stand-alone so I don't have to share info with anyone I don't want to. But DAKboard does have a ready to go unit at a reasonable price ($299 +$20 shipping to US, but currently on backorder, so price may go up a bit). Or there are instructions to make your own, then you can sign up for the service... apparently at no charge? Couldn't find anything about cost without actually signing up. But you can use it on a regular computer as well.

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  • farna commented on seamster's instructable Portable Bandsaw Metal Stand1 month ago
    Portable Bandsaw Metal Stand

    I bet an old sewing machine foot switch would work, for those who want to re-purpose/recycle something...

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  • farna commented on buck2217's instructable La-z-boy Reclaimed1 month ago
  • farna commented on craftedworkshop's instructable Building A Computer Desk / DIY Desk PC2 months ago
    Building A Computer Desk / DIY Desk PC

    If you don't need much computing power it would be real easy to build everything into one drawer. Just mount a ITX or other small motherboard in there with a power supply. You just need to make sure you have enough cable slack to open the drawer. Many other small computers come to mind, the quad core Raspberry Pi for example...

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  • farna commented on electronics for everyone's instructable Bluetooth Door Lock (Arduino)2 months ago
    Bluetooth Door Lock (Arduino)

    There are problems with this, one being if power fails you can't get in. Batteries die also. There are several makes of push-button combination door locks that run on batteries. A really cool idea would be to attach the Arduino controller to one of those. Even if you had to by-pass the keyboard (use bluetooth smart phone to get in) it would be a neat project. Should be able to simply bypass the keyboard lock and activate the bolt remotely though, at least on the dead-bolt versions. These locks have a keyed entry option also, so you're never locked out (or in without taking the lock apart). Of course Schlage and Kwikset both make bluetooth accessible "connected" lock sets in the US, starting at $200...https://www.build.com/schlage-be469nx-cam/s828834...

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  • farna commented on makjosher's instructable The Anywhere Outlet2 months ago
    The Anywhere Outlet

    Well this is a good looking outlet and I can see where it would be a better choice than a traditional power strip. I must be a stick-in-the-mud, however, and point out that a power strip with a small dual USB wall wart (or two if you need them) will be a lot less cost and serve the same purpose, and most have a built-in circuit breaker. A long narrow strip might not work well for some locations though. I've used a similar setup on construction sites -- a dual outlet metal box on the end of a 10 gauge extension cord so more than one power tool can be plugged in. As noted, you need to size the cord according to the expected load. Even with four outlets, we usually only ran one or two tools at a time, just didn't have to reach down and change cords when more than one tool was required for ...see more »Well this is a good looking outlet and I can see where it would be a better choice than a traditional power strip. I must be a stick-in-the-mud, however, and point out that a power strip with a small dual USB wall wart (or two if you need them) will be a lot less cost and serve the same purpose, and most have a built-in circuit breaker. A long narrow strip might not work well for some locations though. I've used a similar setup on construction sites -- a dual outlet metal box on the end of a 10 gauge extension cord so more than one power tool can be plugged in. As noted, you need to size the cord according to the expected load. Even with four outlets, we usually only ran one or two tools at a time, just didn't have to reach down and change cords when more than one tool was required for a job. Running four 8-12A power tools at once would have been a problem! 10 gauge is only rated for 15A. Most replacement cords are 16 or 14 gauges, rated at ~4A and ~6A, respectively, when used for power transmission (22A and 32A for short runs, the shorter the cord the more it can safely carry). See http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm

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  • farna commented on jenspen's instructable Retro Radio Upgrade4 months ago
  • farna commented on amackay's instructable Junkyard Radio to Table Radio4 months ago
    Junkyard Radio to Table Radio

    Try a wal-wart from telephone equipment -- answering machine or wireless telephone. They should be a bit better shielded and have enough power.

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  • How to Spray Paint your jeep and make an assault vehicle

    No negotiating over price. I removed all the trim, bumpers, and lights. One car I drove to the shop so left the tail lights in, took a screwdriver and removed them when I got there. I also wet sanded the car and filled a few minor dings. Even if you let them fill the larger dings still wet sand the car yourself. You need to research paint prepping a car, you can find several articles on the 'net better than I can explain. If you want a color they don't have you will need to purchase your own paint. Talk to the shop owner about what brand and type paint they prefer before buying. You may need more than just paint -- they should be able to tell you what you need to bring if you use something other than what they normally use -- or they may refuse to spray a different type/brand. As I said...see more »No negotiating over price. I removed all the trim, bumpers, and lights. One car I drove to the shop so left the tail lights in, took a screwdriver and removed them when I got there. I also wet sanded the car and filled a few minor dings. Even if you let them fill the larger dings still wet sand the car yourself. You need to research paint prepping a car, you can find several articles on the 'net better than I can explain. If you want a color they don't have you will need to purchase your own paint. Talk to the shop owner about what brand and type paint they prefer before buying. You may need more than just paint -- they should be able to tell you what you need to bring if you use something other than what they normally use -- or they may refuse to spray a different type/brand. As I said, no negotiating on price. You buy the paint job they sell. If you do more prep work you get a better, longer lasting job and they tend to take more care also. If you bring your own paint they won't reduce price normally. When using house paint their cost is minimal since they buy in bulk. They can usually mix just about any color, the house paint is a good quality paint in most cases.

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  • farna commented on ambercollective's instructable How to Buy an Ex-Ambulance6 months ago
    How to Buy an Ex-Ambulance

    Your biggest mileage breaker in an ex military vehicle is the rear ale ratio. The smallish engine (2.24L? small I-6?) for the vehicle size means it needs a lot of gear, especially when carrying a load. The military Jeep Gladiator based M-715 had a 3.77L I-6 and used a 5.87:1 axle with a four speed manual transmission. You need a bit higher (smaller number = higher gear) rear axle for one thing, but remember that it will reduce towing/load capacity. Unless you plan on hauling a load cross country that shouldn't be much of an issue. I would think you can go up at least one whole number (using the Jeep example, from a 5.87 to a 4.87). That should gain you 2-3 mpg and increase highway speed. The Jeep would attain 55 mph, but I wouldn't want to push it at that speed for a long run.

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  • farna commented on MathieuP2's instructable Armchair upcycled from pallets11 months ago
    Armchair upcycled from pallets

    Great design, but the pallets I find around here (central South Carolina. US) are usually made of rather rough wood. Unless you have way too much time on your hands sanding isn't a good option -- better to buy wood or salvage from another source. I realize, however, that part of the "fun" is recycling the pallet. A belt sander will work best. Sand the upper surface before taking the pallet apart so everything stays in place, then as the poster suggests, CUT the end boards off close instead of trying to pull the nails/pry boards apart to reduce splitting. If the wood is really dry and brittle (cracks easily), DRILL holes for screws or nails just a little smaller than the screw or nail. You may need to countersink screw heads. Don't need a fancy countersink bit, just drill the ...see more »Great design, but the pallets I find around here (central South Carolina. US) are usually made of rather rough wood. Unless you have way too much time on your hands sanding isn't a good option -- better to buy wood or salvage from another source. I realize, however, that part of the "fun" is recycling the pallet. A belt sander will work best. Sand the upper surface before taking the pallet apart so everything stays in place, then as the poster suggests, CUT the end boards off close instead of trying to pull the nails/pry boards apart to reduce splitting. If the wood is really dry and brittle (cracks easily), DRILL holes for screws or nails just a little smaller than the screw or nail. You may need to countersink screw heads. Don't need a fancy countersink bit, just drill the small hole first then use a bit the size of the screw head and drill a shallow hole. The smaller hole will guide the larger bit to center.

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