Tell us about yourself!
the way I was always taught:start at a straight edge and work your way to the other slowly, pressing down in a 45* angle... as you slowly pull out the dowels back to front, and never let an area touch until everything before has been glued.
I have read it is important to "Unseal" a sealed thermopane window, as the pressure can build up in them from heat that they will blow out the glass.four small holes, one at the bottom of each corner, and one at the top of each corner is all you need, and it vents the moisture also. Also, ensure you have upward holes drilled through the frame somewhere to allow the air to move through, but water will not track up. stuff with "ScotchBrite" pad material to keep out small bugsAs windows have negligible R value, you don't lose much by venting with air.
I agree with the author, build your box to include the angle. , or put a back on it, move it away for the wall, build channels to feed the air, and insulate the heck out of the back, and channels.as for the angle of mirrors, just take one and a carpenter's protractor, and when the sun goes past the point where the rays are starting to miss, set up your mirror and measure the angle you need. A small mirror would work for this to get this info, before spending $ on big ones.You should be able to see if it will be effective or not.Good Luck.
buy those filler strips for corrugated plexi, and sandwich a tight screen between two on either side of the screen. This will create a horizontal wave in the screen.Also paint the backing flat black, and perhaps make it from corrugated material as well... turbulence is what helps with the heat exchange.
there must be some instructions missing..... there's not much about how the batteries connect.
got any pictures? I can't follow your post of your door.
if you have an hydraulic press, perhaps you could get a 2x4 1/4" thick piece of rectangle tubing, and using your press, gently squeeze in the bow till flat, or "JUST" a hint under. That way the edges would form MORE level points instead of trusting the bows to be all the same.
I was thinking about losing the pin also.My thought was to roll/fold one end of the sandpaper, slide it into the hole/slot and let it freewheel like a flap disk. once it is spinning in place, it wouldn't matter that the end is free, as it would be trapped between the workpiece and drum. if it wears faster, leave it longer so you wrap a few times, and let it wear away!
BTW, the correct spelling of abreviation is "abbreviation".
you should stop and ask them how they are doing.Bovine need to be shown some appreciation and friendship.
fill your bottle with #12 lead shot and go after mice in the garage
I had it figured out as soon as I saw the picture.I had something very similar in steel!Nice job! These things are good fun!
Thanks. Go for it! You do far more artistic work than I do. I was thinking of trying to make a forming hammer and buck to pound them in identical on 55gal barrels to make incinerators and pits to sell!
helium is NOT in short supply!
I plan on doing this to a 55gal drum, and a 35gal drum....
see my response above... no photos as the can is at hunting camp a few hours away, and not accessable now due snow
I've used a hammer and hatchet
I have some of these, but no projects in mind. This is nice. I was also thinking a portable rocket griller! One thought. Instead of holes I have gone to cutting louvers in the sides. Far more airflow for better fires! My hunting camp pit needs one good load of wood to get a bed of coals then ANYTHING can burn!I marked lines vertical evenly spaced, even number. Then cut slots between the lines skipping a space so I had a vertical row of slots. With heavy pliers and hammer chisel i ben them so the louvers forced the burning wood and coals to fall in to middle of the pot. I NEVER have burning sticks poking out and falling on the ground! Mine is opened enough that when you look down through the louvers at an angle all you see is a 6x4 inch square hole of air space. But you still have ...
I have some of these, but no projects in mind. This is nice. I was also thinking a portable rocket griller! One thought. Instead of holes I have gone to cutting louvers in the sides. Far more airflow for better fires! My hunting camp pit needs one good load of wood to get a bed of coals then ANYTHING can burn!I marked lines vertical evenly spaced, even number. Then cut slots between the lines skipping a space so I had a vertical row of slots. With heavy pliers and hammer chisel i ben them so the louvers forced the burning wood and coals to fall in to middle of the pot. I NEVER have burning sticks poking out and falling on the ground! Mine is opened enough that when you look down through the louvers at an angle all you see is a 6x4 inch square hole of air space. But you still have the heat holding capability. Try it once and you will never go back to holes again!
my understanding from talking with folks who have lived in teepees, if you use a liner, you peg it to the ground, and run it up the inside, then when you stretch out the outside cover, you peg it so there are a couple inches above the ground to allow air flow.this helps pull the smoke out the top, and keep everything below the top of the liner pretty smoke free.Also, setting up teepee was woman's work. Men would never help, as the women take GREAT pride in their home
with the pin out, the trigger group is removed by tilting it up from the rear/butt end.there are tabs that hold the front/barrel end in the receiver
I found there is no reason to, unless you need to clean in it.... I have not found an easy way to take one apart.perhaps they have made them disassemblable over the last 30 years.
absolutelyI have had two of these, and did exactly that.I used a fine stone to knock off all the edges, and an extra fine to polish all the sides that make contact with other metal.upon reassembly, I had oiled it all up, and when totally assembled, I worked the slide a few thousand times watching a movie.after that, I have NEVER had a jam or cartridge hang up. (Wish I could say the same thing about the Remington Wingmasters or 870's)
a shotgun is not a weapon, it is a tool with a specific purpose.an aluminum bat is more a weapon than a 12ga shotgun