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Metalworking Tools and Materials
If I were to round the corners, I would make 2 slat both the same length using formica countertop scrap.I would place a slat at the center of the end aligned with the center of the slat and hot glue it in place. The ends of the slats would press up against the sides of the form. these ends can. Be pulled away from the end of the table along the side to adjust the corner.When the perfect corner is found, makes the othe other 3 slat ends the same distance and hotglue in place.It would make perfectly matching arcs.Place rocks or sand behind the slats to keep them stable while pouring. (Also I wouldnt really use hot glue. But it should work.)
Before sealing it, I would have taken a tire, put a little stain on it and would have rolled it over the top. (Your place looks too nice for that though.)With the tracks on top, people would always wonder if you just cut off a piece of your neighbor's driveway, or you are an environmentalist and reused torn up driveways.Great thoughts!Would spraying it down with water have work as well as sanding? I dunno.
Cheap and Easy Micro Quadcopter
I just saw someone in a ePoo outfit (in NYC) this summer. (Went there twice.)It must be catching on.
A simple question. For a DC brushed rotor, when the load through the motor is switched off it is stated a collapsing magnetic field (within the inductor) creates a reverse current. A "snubber" diode is used to ground that voltage at the motor so the switching system is not damaged.I also assume this collapsing magnetic field is moving within a permanent magnetic field (if the stator produces a continuous field). As stated earlier (not in direct words) in your article this creates a changing voltage at a changing current at the inputs to the motor.When "snubbed," I assume there is now a force being applied to slow down the motor? On a 2 HP 13A 125VDC pulse controlled motor, How much power is this? (How is the current rating of a diode selected?)Could this energy be c...see more »A simple question. For a DC brushed rotor, when the load through the motor is switched off it is stated a collapsing magnetic field (within the inductor) creates a reverse current. A "snubber" diode is used to ground that voltage at the motor so the switching system is not damaged.I also assume this collapsing magnetic field is moving within a permanent magnetic field (if the stator produces a continuous field). As stated earlier (not in direct words) in your article this creates a changing voltage at a changing current at the inputs to the motor.When "snubbed," I assume there is now a force being applied to slow down the motor? On a 2 HP 13A 125VDC pulse controlled motor, How much power is this? (How is the current rating of a diode selected?)Could this energy be captured from the motor and stored so that it can be "additive" to the power sent to the motor? (IE stored kinetically in another motor switch in, then that kinetic energy added back, or capacitively, or through a RI circuit?)Just for fun of course.- not afraid of the math required...
- Will you cover torque conversions and gearing selections? (or Part 3, as if people are using stepper motors most will be straightforward.)- Noise reduction/increase?- Heat buildup/dissipation?- All of other motor types?- Pancake? polyphase? Just asking (learning more is cool.)
Curing 2-cycle engine problems
Errr, Uhhhh... The obvious... Why don't you charge up the battery in the laptop... Then sell it on e-bay... You seem to have it always powered on.That will save a battery AND a lot of wasted energy...
Dear Sir, Is the tin 75mmx75mm? I wanted to check this out. I printed it and it looks much larger than the youtube video.I printed a smoothed meshmixer version and the original to compare the amount of cleanup. (My mesh mixer version is very smooth. It also has all the colors still attached.)
So, rather than tape, a bar that has a curl (to grab the print bed) on one end.On the other end of the bar a connector which clamps down into something (next part) in a scissor like action.The other part is just like the first end of the bar. It clamps over the other side of the print bed. (excess fabric would go between the print bed and this part) A snap connector accepts the bar.Several of these bars could be used to hold fabrics.Additionally, half tubes (troughs) could be added to hold the excess fabric.I also assume this entire structure could be built on top of any print bed since height in the printer isn't needed too much.Is this useless? The Fabric frame that fits on a makerbot print bed. (The troughs could even be made to hold "circular bolts" of cloth)
Excellent work... Someone needs to ship to you 2 great mechanical engineers and all their tools. Then tell them to take every idea and expand on it...
So, Now we need to:1) Have frames made to attach fabric to the beds,2) Have software tools to convert clothing pattern guide paper to stl (or suitable format),3) Have a complete set of "here is how you handle this seam/sewing technique."Then, it would be like quilting your clothing. Segments of fabrics could be bonded to bed (magnet frame) and print seams. Maybe even print the "cut here" lines.Do you have a completed wearable item? Or is this for fastening fabrics (buttons...)I see ways of making the bed so fabric can lay on both sides (the rest of the clothing.) A bed might be a tin can rather than flat.It would be amazing to see an actual zipper printed in situ.... Hmmm. (I have several printers... I've also sewn pants, shirts with a sewing machine.)
How to 3D Print onto Fabric
Excellent indeed... Welding looks simple. But, with this one visualizes the difficulties encountered in getting stuff in place, squaring and then connecting. So, welding isn't really all about melting two pieces of metal together. It is about getting pieces of metal cleaned, signed up, being able to build clamping/holding tools, measurement. Then, the few minutes of tacking pieces together. Then, grinding, smoothing, sanding, painting... An art.
Quick, dirty and cheap laser engraver
DICE - a tiny, rigid and superfast 3D-printer
Drill Press Restoration (Refurbishing Techniques)
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