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Hi. so to answer your questions the electromagnet doesn't really matter, it just needs to be strong enough to be powered with your power supply. The magnets are oriented so that the magnets attract to the electromagnet when powered. the 3 magnets was just for weight and some additional magnetic strength. Also, TBH. I don't know why I used a potentiometer. You are right that everything is controlled by the software. Pm for my contact info. I would love to help you succeed on this project, and the comments section isn't the best way to do that.Clark.
My supply was 12v, 1.25 A, but the ampreage does not really matter, as long as it is above 1.25.
I'm glad you liked it! Ultrasonic sensors will not work. You will get an object that bounces around, then becomes so unstable that it falls out. I would suggest that you either use a magnetic (analog hall effect sensor), or resistive light based sensor. If you have trouble using an IR system, you could probably use regular LEDs and a photoresistor. Just be aware it would be very sensitive to room lights. If you would like to discuss this in more detail, PM me, and I will provide contact details for you.
I don't know. I just found it lying around. I think most diodes should work.
Hi. The IR sensor I used was a special one I found at my school. It was in a bin, and undocumented, so unfortunately, I can't give you any part number. What I can tell you, is that is was a resistive sensor. That meant that it would have a linear resistance (well, possibly not exactly linear, but you get the idea). So when no IR light reached the sensor. The resistance would be quite high. As more and more IR light reached the sensor, the resistance started to lower. So, to answer your question, No, it is not a on/off sensor, but rather one that, in a voltage divider, outputs an analog voltage based on the amount of IR light the sensor can detect.
What are you looking for in a simplified version? Less code, less frame building, less components?If you are looking for less components, it will be hard, as my project doesn't use that many parts. It has a LED and sensor and an electromagnet, and controller.if you are looking for simple code, grab your code from the source I used, which is the second link in the intro.if you are looking for a simple frame, just use a Clementine box made from wood.If you would like, PM me and I can share my email so can discuss furtherHope this helps,Headslant
When I checked with my multimeter, i believe it only had .42 A, at 12V.
Oh, okay. Thank you
Now I want a laser cutter. I might 3D print out though. Great Job
If you get a good enclosure with USB 3.0, you get faster speeds, but also nearly double the current. USB 3.0 can deliver up to 900ma, vs the measly 500ma of USB 2.0
Good Job! That's so cool
This is so cool! I could think of so many users for a volume controlled water supply.
Please pm me, and I will give it to you
IBoardbot. The internet controlled whiteboard robot
Cool Idea. as for your problem with two people exiting at the same time, or someone standing in the doorway, you could implement a PIR sensor. This way, you would at least know once everybody is out, and the "person counter" could reset.
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in your step three image, i think you might have a mistake. it shows that you can put up to 35 volts into the Arduino. The limit for the Arduino voltage regulator is 20 volts, but Arduino.cc recommends up to 12 volts.
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