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I just did an estimate on the hours this would have saved me in the past decade, needless to say Excellent time saving idea!
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opps, sorry, I wasn't very clear their was I? to clarify, when a smaller grit is used to grind a larger grit the smaller grit will grind a flat on the largest grit itself. this leaves the roughness of the two averaged out not nessisarly a problem, but it can be annoying. the hardness of the materials should be as close as possible because the softer material will wear much quicker, then the harder, leaving you with one curvy(3d curves) surface with a few flats and one wavy(2d) surface.
oh sure, now you've inspired me to refurbish my rusty old bench vice, good job!
when truing or making new stones you want the grit and the hardness of each stone to be as close to each other as possible, as the hardest stone will cut the softer stones more, and the largest grit will tend to flatten on top, reducing it's effectiveness.
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very nice! to answer your questions, two cheap sources of decent whetstones are, old or new grinding wheels, just use the side, and natural stone, almost any stone that scratches your steel will do, but look for one with a very fine grain, and very few or zero voids, to dress a natural, or badly worn stone (both can be had for free,) take three stones of the same material, and under water lap stone 1 and stone 2 together in a small figure 8 pattern, until somewhat flat, then lap stone 1 and 3, then stone 2 and 3, rotate 90 or 180 degrees and repeat, repeat as necessary, this method will work with any stone, and with some practice will yield three stones as flat as their material will allow, the three plate method is an awesome tool.
also, I recommend every grit you can get your hands on, it wouldn't do to have found a stash of abused high quality chisels and not have an effective method of fixing them.
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