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  • ironsmiter commented on SankaranM's instructable Spinning Eyeball2 weeks ago
    Spinning Eyeball

    Agreed. 6AA, and a holder. While more expensive, it'll keep that motor humming along for a LONG time, compared to the same dollar worth of 9volts.

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  • ironsmiter commented on ClockworkLemon's instructable Cordless Drill LiPo Conversion3 weeks ago
    Cordless Drill LiPo Conversion

    I have a very nice 24 volt Bosch set. drill, circular and reciprocating saw, light, etc. ever battery pack has been rebuilt at least once. the charger is on its second universal replacement circuit board(current circuit is designed to charge 9.6-24 volt Menards house brand ni-cd/NMh batteries)Though hard use, and abuse (by others), just about everything has failed EXCEPT the tools themselves. Found a 12 volt one the other day, in a junk shop. for a fiver, I took a chance. Had badly worn brushes(I could start a camp fire, using the sparks coming out of that motor), but the battery was holding a charge. Works just fine in my 24 volt drill, just doesn't last as long.The final kicker is, when I went to replace the brushes... it uses the EXACT same motor as my 24 volt unit. The only differen...

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    I have a very nice 24 volt Bosch set. drill, circular and reciprocating saw, light, etc. ever battery pack has been rebuilt at least once. the charger is on its second universal replacement circuit board(current circuit is designed to charge 9.6-24 volt Menards house brand ni-cd/NMh batteries)Though hard use, and abuse (by others), just about everything has failed EXCEPT the tools themselves. Found a 12 volt one the other day, in a junk shop. for a fiver, I took a chance. Had badly worn brushes(I could start a camp fire, using the sparks coming out of that motor), but the battery was holding a charge. Works just fine in my 24 volt drill, just doesn't last as long.The final kicker is, when I went to replace the brushes... it uses the EXACT same motor as my 24 volt unit. The only difference between the drills is the battery, and a sticker! So, unless you start feeling the motor getting warm, I say, to heck with the (long expired) warranty, and crank up the volts. Just to be "safe", keep it at 1.5 x normal voltage. I have the feeling that running that 6 volt pink screwdriver off a 48 volt pack of 18650's is probably pushing the limits a little.

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  • ironsmiter commented on alex_mp's instructable DVI to ADC Converter1 month ago
    DVI to ADC Converter

    Managed to get both DVI and ADC connectors from http://www.surplussales.com/Connectors/Video-Data....Might as well pick up 2 of each, at that price. have a spare, in case you screw up something. and if the first one goes well, make a second adapter.As for the PCB... the connectors use a 1.9mm spacing, so it is pretty much a guarantee you will need a custom PCB. There are a few people who have made them, including this guy http://www.jasondoesitall.com/adc/ (who kindly allowed access to his gerber files), so you can have them made up at any board fab facility.Don't forget a power connector, usb ports, and a really good solder iron.

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  • Paper + Grass Clippings Fuel Briquettes

    should not be too much smoke, once it is burning, but there will be a fair bit of ash. And lighting it off will probably take a small starter fire. I would say, every other piece of fuel you put on could be one of these.When I make smaller logs, I like to mix in a finely ground up old candle. For "starters", I also dip the logs in hot liquid wax for a few seconds. Just that extra bit of wax/paraffin makes a HUGE difference in burn quality. Old coffee grounds mixed in also make for a wonderful smelling fire, IMO :-)

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  • ironsmiter commented on emilyvanleemput's instructable TARDIS Siege Mode Cube2 months ago
    TARDIS Siege Mode Cube

    the link to "this amazing site" seems to be having issues :-(

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  • ironsmiter commented on ShalorM's instructable How to Make an "anvil"2 months ago
    How to Make an "anvil"

    Welcome to the world of ASO (anvil shaped objects). It has a long and glorious history.Here are the basics for a beginners ASO...1) Get it as large and heavy as you can. If you can easily move it without help, it is probably too light unless you are only going to be doing small knives.2) a FLAT surface is a must. Railroad rail anvils often work better with the train side down! Or even stood on end (https://www.instructables.com/id/Railway-Line-Anvi... The "hardened face" of the rail is only work hardened from the trains rolling over it. 2 months of smithing on the flat side will do pretty much the same thing(but not as smooth an end product)3) The best you can get is probably good enough for now. Dense wooden stumps with nothing else CAN work OK as a temporary anvil, for some...

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    Welcome to the world of ASO (anvil shaped objects). It has a long and glorious history.Here are the basics for a beginners ASO...1) Get it as large and heavy as you can. If you can easily move it without help, it is probably too light unless you are only going to be doing small knives.2) a FLAT surface is a must. Railroad rail anvils often work better with the train side down! Or even stood on end (https://www.instructables.com/id/Railway-Line-Anvi... The "hardened face" of the rail is only work hardened from the trains rolling over it. 2 months of smithing on the flat side will do pretty much the same thing(but not as smooth an end product)3) The best you can get is probably good enough for now. Dense wooden stumps with nothing else CAN work OK as a temporary anvil, for some work. Dished stumps are about the ONLY good anvil for doing bowls, and rough forging plate armour. Add a plate of steel, and it becomes pretty darn good. Make that plate a block, and it works even better. There is even a youtube video of norse(swedish?) re-enactors forging billets of homemade iron on large stones, using wooden mallets as sledge hammers.4) Did I mention as large and heavy as you can? In general, you want your anvil to weight 10-20 times as much as the largest hammer you are going to use on it. (This is why jewelers can get away with little 1-2lb stainless steel anvils. Those little hammers are only 2-3 ozs.) But when in doubt, heavier is better.5) Hardened striking surface. Strong and hard, but not brittle.You are now approaching a 'real' anvil. unless you happen to find this in the junk yard, and it is JUST RIGHT... you are probably going to spend just as much getting this cut, ground, hardened and tempered, as you would have buying a nice used anvil on craigslist, or ebay.I have forged on closed vices, railroad anvils, broken truck axles, old busted farm anvils, random blocks of plate steel, brand new $1000 anvils... and when it was all said and done,the things that had the most impact on the finished project were my choice of hammer, my skill, and keeping the metal at the right temperature. The anvils just made it a little easier/more tedious.

    If you want to take it one step further, set it up right, and bed your ASO with lead. Just heat it up (carefully) and pour it down the hole. Not only will it add mass, you will also notice a lot less 'jump' when working on it. And less 'jump' means more of your effort is going into moving the hot metal, and less into moving the anvil.

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  • Cleaning Nickel CPU Water Block | EK-Supremacy EVO - Nickel

    Warm citric acid for cleaning copper...For nickleplating, a jewelry ultrasonic cleaner would be a Good, chemical free cleaner, at leadt a vety good start.

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  • ironsmiter commented on ZombieWorkshop's instructable Rebar Pen / Pluma De Varilla6 months ago
    Rebar Pen / Pluma De Varilla

    I would be very tempted to either make (from drill rod) or buy a small boring bar, and starting about 1/2" back from the hole mouth, bore out the ID.That should preserve the look, and function of the pen while allowing your hand to actually hold and write for more than 2 min at a time. Even if the drilled hole went to 95% depth, it still has to weight a pretty good amount, and at that scale, every tiny bit of material removed is going to make a large difference.

    If you can very carefully drill the center hole with a drill press...The rest of the shaping could be done on a bench grinder.A lathe just makes it a lot simpler, and quicker to set up and execute.

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  • how to get tons of free enameled copper wire

    There can be some subtle differences in technique, but basically, get a flat bladed screwdriver, and a length of heavy gauge wire with aligator clips on both ends. Clip one end onto the screwdriver, and the other to ground. Carefully poke around under the rubber cap with the tip of the screwdriver until you hear the ZZzzzzttttpppop sound.

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  • ironsmiter commented on Navy Wolves's instructable DIY Dog Snow Fort10 months ago
    DIY Dog Snow Fort

    Now, toss in a busted bale of hay, and you have a happy puppy den.

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  • ironsmiter commented on mrpropmaster's instructable Restoring an Axe10 months ago
    Restoring an Axe

    only a good solution, if you are also replacing the handle.We know what happens if you soak a wood handle overnight in ANYTHING liquid... loose handle immenint.

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  • ironsmiter commented on MESSv1's instructable how to make piadina bread11 months ago
    how to make piadina bread

    Is it closer to a tortilla or closer to naan? Or neither, and more like a thin crust pizza without toppings?

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  • Unexpected result during fire resistance test (final test)

    perlite and vermiculite can both be found pretty darn easy, even in small towns. you just have to know where to look.The gardening center of even a tiny hardware store should have 5lb bags of both. ANY greenhouse type store will have both, and almost any building center will at least have perlite.Just be aware that it will make a lighter product with better insulating qualities, but it will NOT raise the temperature resistance of your formula.Personally, I use an almost 50/50 mixture of kaolin and kyanite, and then add 'busted crucible and firebrick grog" to the mix. Regular grog is too variable for my taste. I have successfully melted small batched of iron using my recipe. You do need to fire the vessel(like any other high temperature ceramic vessel) before putting it into service...

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    perlite and vermiculite can both be found pretty darn easy, even in small towns. you just have to know where to look.The gardening center of even a tiny hardware store should have 5lb bags of both. ANY greenhouse type store will have both, and almost any building center will at least have perlite.Just be aware that it will make a lighter product with better insulating qualities, but it will NOT raise the temperature resistance of your formula.Personally, I use an almost 50/50 mixture of kaolin and kyanite, and then add 'busted crucible and firebrick grog" to the mix. Regular grog is too variable for my taste. I have successfully melted small batched of iron using my recipe. You do need to fire the vessel(like any other high temperature ceramic vessel) before putting it into service. And before each use, I thoroughly dry it next to the glory hole, so that any absorbed moisture from the evening before doesn't explode my precious clay metal melters. If you intend to do iron though, best off just getting a good graphite crucible or 4. For aluminium, a small, deep cast iron pot with a clay wash works as well or better than ceramic crucibles. Bronze requires the same basic set up as iron. Just my two cents.

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  • ironsmiter commented on dpmakestuff's instructable Make It - Secret Compartment Frame1 year ago
    Make It - Secret Compartment Frame

    Awesome job cutting that brass bar stock. my cuts never come out that clean.You must sharpen your knife more often than I do. And a I love the part where you properly lubricate your framing square before every use too.

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  • ironsmiter commented on ViciousBaitDye's instructable Dye Live Bait Fish1 year ago
    Dye Live Bait Fish

    with the old feeder goldfish, wasn't really a problem, as they weren't too smart. Any that got loose were quickly eaten by the sport fish. They also take a fair bit of time to grow large enough to be a problem...Now, take your current asian carp and you have a problem. Faster growing, 'smarter', and much more aggressive. they can quickly decimate a local diverse fish population.

    I wonder what the long term effects are... gold fish are pretty hardy, but breathing that stuff may not be good for them. less of a problem in bait fish. more of an issue for pets.Presumably, after a few weeks, they would return to their normal color.

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  • ironsmiter commented on FireSword's instructable External Tablet Charger1 year ago
    External Tablet Charger

    I wonder if you put the charge circuit in parallel with the old circuit...It SHOULD continue to register a charged battery just like normal. If not, perhaps a set of diodes on the charge circuit lines would prevent residual voltage bleeding, and give accurate battery monitoring back? I THINK most tablets monitor actual battery voltage, so should read properly once calibrated with a full charge/discharge/charge cycle. As long as none of the monitoring traces have been damaged.One of the circuit gurus may have a different opinion. but it is a place to start, if you want to try on the next fix.

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  • ironsmiter commented on joshr35's instructable Hand Forged Rose1 year ago
    Hand Forged Rose

    It would take some more time and skill, but you could split the leaves off the stem, and forge them out, instead of welding on. Slightly widen the spot for the leaf, get it nice and hot(yellow, at least, for mild steel), and use a sharp hot chisel. Once split , and bent at 90, forge it out, then bend into a more natural curve.Completely agree that forge welding the finished leaf on, while doable, could be very tricky to get the temperatures right on both pieces.The painted version is ... interesting. Depends on what you like better, I guess. I think I like the 'pure' metal look better, but what do I know, eh?

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  • ironsmiter commented on treii28's instructable Rotating Turbine fire pit cover1 year ago
    Rotating Turbine fire pit cover

    I think my forge / BBQ / Standing Firepit now needs a pretty new upgrade.Thanks for the inspiration. Hopefully the SO doesn't force me to make seasonal spinners.

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  • ironsmiter commented on DuralM's instructable Brass Casting - Got Nice Ingot1 year ago
    Brass Casting - Got Nice Ingot

    I would reach out to the Flordia Artist Blacksmith Association.( http://blacksmithing.org/ )I am sure they could help you out with starter coal, or a solid lead on where to buy it. Personally, even being from Illinois (lots of coal here, not all smithing grade though), It's hard to beat some of the internet pricing for 50lb bags of coal. When i take a trip near the mines, I swing in and pick up a couple hundred pounds, But if I am running low, amazon is just a click away, and a heck of a lot faster than planning a long vacation weekend

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  • Charcoal Grill Forge: Become a blacksmith on the cheap

    If you really need to get started "dirt cheap" then that is a place to save. Literally, DIRT. ANY commercial refractory is going to cost a chunk of change. Dirt is usually free. and high-clay dirt is even better. Just mix it a little moist, so that it clumps, and packs well... then jam it in there.1) Yes, it will dry and crack.2) No, it is not as good as refractory3) Yes, it will work just fine, till you have a chance to upgrade.Almost any cracking will be filled with dust from your fuel, and that stuff is a pretty good insulator also. Just remember, "Professional" forges are basically cast iron bowls, so the insulation for your BBQ is only "needed" for high temperature operation (like forge welding, where the insulation concentrates the heat) and to keep t...

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    If you really need to get started "dirt cheap" then that is a place to save. Literally, DIRT. ANY commercial refractory is going to cost a chunk of change. Dirt is usually free. and high-clay dirt is even better. Just mix it a little moist, so that it clumps, and packs well... then jam it in there.1) Yes, it will dry and crack.2) No, it is not as good as refractory3) Yes, it will work just fine, till you have a chance to upgrade.Almost any cracking will be filled with dust from your fuel, and that stuff is a pretty good insulator also. Just remember, "Professional" forges are basically cast iron bowls, so the insulation for your BBQ is only "needed" for high temperature operation (like forge welding, where the insulation concentrates the heat) and to keep the thin steel from oxidizing through (rust or burn, it's just a matter of time and speed).For fuel, you can actually get some reasonable work done using hardwood chunks! Hardwood charcoal is better(less smoke and impurities grunging up your steel). BBQ briquettes WILL work, if it is your only fuel, but don't expect forging to be easy or clean. And forge welding is pretty much right out the window.As to lighting the fire... I was taught to use the newspaper. Two to three sheets crumpled up, lit on the edge, buried in coal, then turn the blower on. If you have pre-made coke from your last forge session, you can cut that down to a half sheet of newspaper ;-)Just remember, the first blacksmiths likely used campfires and rocks to beat metals into compliance. Any more modern technology you use just gives you a head start!

    If you really need to get started "dirt cheap" then that is a place to save. Literally, DIRT. ANY commercial refractory is going to cost a chunk of change. Dirt is usually free. and high-clay dirt is even better. Just mix it a little moist, so that it clumps, and packs well... then jam it in there.1) Yes, it will dry and crack.2) No, it is not as good as refractory3) Yes, it will work just fine, till you have a chance to upgrade.Almost any cracking will be filled with dust from your fuel, and that stuff is a pretty good insulator also. Just remember, "Professional" forges are basically cast iron bowls, so the insulation for your BBQ is only "needed" for high temperature operation (like forge welding, where the insulation concentrates the heat) and to keep t...

    see more »

    If you really need to get started "dirt cheap" then that is a place to save. Literally, DIRT. ANY commercial refractory is going to cost a chunk of change. Dirt is usually free. and high-clay dirt is even better. Just mix it a little moist, so that it clumps, and packs well... then jam it in there.1) Yes, it will dry and crack.2) No, it is not as good as refractory3) Yes, it will work just fine, till you have a chance to upgrade.Almost any cracking will be filled with dust from your fuel, and that stuff is a pretty good insulator also. Just remember, "Professional" forges are basically cast iron bowls, so the insulation for your BBQ is only "needed" for high temperature operation (like forge welding, where the insulation concentrates the heat) and to keep the thin steel from oxidizing through (rust or burn, it's just a matter of time and speed).For fuel, you can actually get some reasonable work done using hardwood chunks! Hardwood charcoal is better(less smoke and impurities grunging up your steel). BBQ briquettes WILL work, if it is your only fuel, but don't expect forging to be easy or clean. And forge welding is pretty much right out the window.As to lighting the fire... I was taught to use the newspaper. Two to three sheets crumpled up, lit on the edge, buried in coal, then turn the blower on. If you have pre-made coke from your last forge session, you can cut that down to a half sheet of newspaper ;-)Just remember, the first blacksmiths likely used campfires and rocks to beat metals into compliance. Any more modern technology you use just gives you a head start!Video series of taking dirt and firewood, turning more dirt into iron, then forging a weapon of war!

    If you really need to get started "dirt cheap" then that is a place to save.Literally, DIRT. ANY commercial refractory is going to cost a chunk of change.Dirt is usually free. and high-clay dirt is even better. Just mix it a little moist, so that it clumps, and packs well... then jam it in there. 1) Yes, it will dry and crack.2) No, it is not as good as refractory3) Yes, it will work just fine, till you have a chance to upgrade.Almost any cracking will be filled with dust from your fuel, and that stuff is a pretty good insulator also. Just remember, "Professional" forges are basically cast iron bowls, so the insulation for your BBQ is only "needed" for high temperature operation (like forge welding, where the insulation concentrates the heat) and to keep th...

    see more »

    If you really need to get started "dirt cheap" then that is a place to save.Literally, DIRT. ANY commercial refractory is going to cost a chunk of change.Dirt is usually free. and high-clay dirt is even better. Just mix it a little moist, so that it clumps, and packs well... then jam it in there. 1) Yes, it will dry and crack.2) No, it is not as good as refractory3) Yes, it will work just fine, till you have a chance to upgrade.Almost any cracking will be filled with dust from your fuel, and that stuff is a pretty good insulator also. Just remember, "Professional" forges are basically cast iron bowls, so the insulation for your BBQ is only "needed" for high temperature operation (like forge welding, where the insulation concentrates the heat) and to keep the thin steel from oxidizing through (rust or burn, it's just a matter of time and speed).For fuel, you can actually get some reasonable work done using hardwood chunks!Hardwood charcoal is better(less smoke and impurities grunging up your steel). BBQ briquettes WILL work, if it is your only fuel, but don't expect forging to be easy or clean. And forge welding is pretty much right out the window.As to lighting the fire... I was taught to use the newspaper. Two to three sheets crumpled up, lit on the edge, buried in coal, then turn the blower on. If you have pre-made coke from your last forge session, you can cut that down to a half sheet of newspaper ;-)Just remember, the first blacksmiths likely used campfires and rocks to beat metals into compliance. Any more modern technology you use just gives you a head start!This is video 1 in a series of 'ancient' people using dirt and firewood to turn other dirt into an iron and forge spear head ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y_mTgHj6M1Q )

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  • Fixing a old broken computer cooling fan with a new DC Motor

    Rough up the surface around the broken fan blade with a file, or sandpaper.clean it really well.JB weld, or Bondic will make for a very securely fastened balancer. It won't blow as well, with the missing blade, but it should let you run at full speed without the fan tearing itself apart, or killing the bearings.

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  • ironsmiter commented on gpiwowar's instructable Restore a Cast Iron Frying Pan1 year ago
    Restore a Cast Iron Frying Pan

    MY final step before seasoning, is to stick my cast iron in a turkey fryer, and boil it for a half hour or so. Any soap that made it into the metal will surely come loose, along with the last bits of iron dust, and any remaining bio material. For "lesser" cleaning, I just stick it on the stove top, fill with water, and simmer. works pretty darn well.For seasoning, my latest try is coconut oil (been using it for all my cooking lately). Works pretty well, and doesn't seem to have made a negative taste impact to anything I've cooked.But Lodge has a specific seasoning spray they sell. 100% canola oil. And cast iron is what they do. So, if you don't want to experiment, follow the experts, and use canola.

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  • Banana Halwa : A Sweet Dish Made From Over Ripe Bananas

    seems like a lot of sugar for an already sweet banana might try subbing coconut flour for half the sugar

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  • ironsmiter commented on Tuan_Hoang's instructable Weekend project: A forest dragon1 year ago
    Weekend project: A forest dragon

    The texturing on that is AMAZING!Did you do any kind of sealing or preservative? Or are you going to let the brass do it's thing and go verdigris and shiny brass where people will be petting it? (think like any statue of Abraham Lincoln, or horses nuts in a public park sculpture)

    Sorry, the link should have been to the NUMBER ONE forest dragon. correct link belowhttp://furukawa21.jp/craftclub/craftinfo/%E3%83%89...

    I THINK the direct link to the page is here http://furukawa21.jp/craftclub/craftinfo/%E3%83%89...to save you time, scrolling through translated pages of linked papercraft.To quote from the site "Copyright basically paper belong to Furukawa and studio nozzle. Customers secondary processing in the category of personal enjoyment, the public, etc. is free. However, if you want to use as follows: Please note. ○ companies, organizations to be used for commercial purposes please refrain. ○ (such as catalogs, flyers, business cards) secondary processing for commercial purposes, please contact our regard, such as manufacturing and sales."For now, the pattern is a freely linked download.

    sorry, this one is actually the number ONE forest dragon.http://furukawa21.jp/craftclub/craftinfo/%E3%83%89%E3%83%A9%E3%82%B4%E3%83%B3%E3%81%AE%E5%9E%8B%E7%B4%99no-1_forestdragon/

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  • 3D Printable Designer Sunglasses

    Keep us up to date on the durability of the integrated hinge design!For "softer nose pads", stop by the local optical shop. Usually, they should have both aftermarket replacement pads which you could clip off the attachment method and adhere them to the frame, or possibly use one of the "no slip silicon nose pad" pads used to "fix" plastic frames for people with nose fitment issues. If you find a good independent optical shop, you may be able to have them fit nose pad arms to the frame (though they will need to know the material properties of your printer filament to even try). It is pretty easily done with acetate frames, but with your printed frames, it would be an experiment.Shaping over an open flame is.... risky. A hot air gun, diffused, and set at a d...

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    Keep us up to date on the durability of the integrated hinge design!For "softer nose pads", stop by the local optical shop. Usually, they should have both aftermarket replacement pads which you could clip off the attachment method and adhere them to the frame, or possibly use one of the "no slip silicon nose pad" pads used to "fix" plastic frames for people with nose fitment issues. If you find a good independent optical shop, you may be able to have them fit nose pad arms to the frame (though they will need to know the material properties of your printer filament to even try). It is pretty easily done with acetate frames, but with your printed frames, it would be an experiment.Shaping over an open flame is.... risky. A hot air gun, diffused, and set at a distance is much better. Better still, put a small pan of salt on a hot plate, and set the temperature to "Just right, Goldilocks", and use that to heat the frame for bending. Normal temperatures are between 150F and 300F, but without the data on your feed stock, you should start at the low end, and work your way up. You know it was too hot, or in for too long when your frame takes on little dented textures matching the shape of salt crystals ;-) Maybe print out a test piece, and use that to calibrate your temperature before sacrificing your finished frames.

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