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  • jasper_fracture commented on HackerBoxes's instructable HackerBoxes 0018: Circuit Circus3 months ago
    HackerBoxes 0018: Circuit Circus

    Hi Kevin -This doesn't exactly answer your question, but I just got done posting a short post on how to update the MCU code on my site. Nothing fancy, just a starting point, but it works....mostly :)http://jasperfracture.com/how-to-change-the-mcu-co...You might be able to get the info you need from the C files used in the directories I mentioned in the tutorial. Hope you get it working!

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  • jasper_fracture commented on HackerBoxes's instructable HackerBoxes 0016: Cellular Metal4 months ago
    HackerBoxes 0016: Cellular Metal

    Hi Grant -Regarding my tutorial, it sounds like you might have an incorrect setting in the Serial Monitor. Check out the subreddit thread at: https://www.reddit.com/r/hackerboxes/comments/61sj...Can't guarantee it's the exact same problem Anand was having, but it sounds similar. select "Use NL & CR" (be sure your baud matches the code you're using....mine used 9600)close the Serial Monitor power cycle/disconnect/reconnect USB from UNOre-open Serial Monitor, try AT command againGood luck with it. :)

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  • jasper_fracture commented on HackerBoxes's instructable HackerBoxes 0016: Cellular Metal4 months ago
    HackerBoxes 0016: Cellular Metal

    Those look like 22pF caps to me :)

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  • jasper_fracture followed HackerBoxes5 months ago
      • HackerBoxes 0016: Cellular Metal
      • HackerBoxes 0015: Connect Everything
      • HackerBoxes 0014: Cache the Planet
  • jasper_fracture commented on HackerBoxes's instructable HackerBoxes 0016: Cellular Metal5 months ago
    HackerBoxes 0016: Cellular Metal

    I'm really not sure on the zones. Hologram has a "Live Chat" feature on their website which would probably get you fastest answer. If you're in a rural area like me, reception might be a problem until you get closer to a tower that the SIM800L can work with. Also, if you have a big cap like a 470uF, try putting it across the power rails supplying the SIM800L. That really seemed to help me. Either way, good luck with it - be interested to hear if you get it working.

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  • jasper_fracture commented on HackerBoxes's instructable HackerBoxes 0016: Cellular Metal5 months ago
    HackerBoxes 0016: Cellular Metal

    Hi Martinez -Thank you! You may have a problem with cell reception. Try the AT command: AT+COPS=?It should return something like: +COPS: (2,”T-Mobile USA”,”TMO”,”310260″),,(0-4),(0-2).If you get something like: (0-4),(0,2), I think you might have reception issues.

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  • jasper_fracture commented on HackerBoxes's instructable HackerBoxes 0016: Cellular Metal5 months ago
    HackerBoxes 0016: Cellular Metal

    Those should be 22pF caps which should be correct for the timing crystal. http://m.wikihow.com/Read-a-Capacitor

    To clarify, youve got the correct parts. ?

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  • jasper_fracture commented on HackerBoxes's instructable HackerBoxes 0016: Cellular Metal5 months ago
    HackerBoxes 0016: Cellular Metal

    grtyvr is right...no need for +1Also instead of "AT+CMGW", try using: AT+CMGS="1AREACODEYOURNUMBER"If you're entering the text in through the Serial Monitor, you're going to need a way to send "Ctrl-Z" to end the text body entry.There's a demo on my site that might help. Good luck with it! :)

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  • HackerBoxes 0015: Connect Everything

    Thanks Aman - glad it helped you out! :)

    Thanks Aman! Your weather widget looks good! :)

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  • jasper_fracture commented on HackerBoxes's instructable HackerBoxes 0016: Cellular Metal5 months ago
    HackerBoxes 0016: Cellular Metal

    Hi, I posted a guide on how to use the SIM800 to send data to a webpage via HTTP GET, and the image for that post shows the 470uF cap on the power rails next to the board:http://jasperfracture.com

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  • HackerBoxes 0015: Connect Everything

    Nice little project Michael ! Too bad there wasn't a leftover 10K pot from one of those boxes :)

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  • jasper_fracture commented on HackerBoxes's instructable HackerBoxes 0016: Cellular Metal5 months ago
    HackerBoxes 0016: Cellular Metal

    Hi - I just posted a short tutorial on what did to get ours working: http://jasperfracture.com/hackerboxe-16-quick-tuto...We found that the 800L board was a little finicky.power seemed to be an issue. Powering from a bench power supply at 5V, 2.5A seemed to work a lot better than USB/micro. Also, putting a 470uF capacitor across the 800L power seemed to help stabilize things.

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  • HackerBoxes 0015: Connect Everything

    Looks good! It is still throwing seemingly random exceptions during the client.readStringUntil(), and I am having some difficulty tracking it down. I did find what appeared to be a related issue reported from about a week ago. I'm working on cleaning up the code and also going back to using the static buffer instead of the heap related buffer.

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  • HackerBoxes 0015: Connect Everything

    Maine -We posted our project so far on our site. It's very basic and still buggy, but it works. It's probably enough to help get you going.http://jasperfracture.com/basic-weather-widget-for-ssd1306-and-esp32/

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  • jasper_fracture commented on HackerBoxes's instructable HackerBoxes 0012: Digital Logic7 months ago
    HackerBoxes 0012: Digital Logic

    Late response, but I missed this somehow....anyway that's awesome G'lenH! I wasn't entirely sure what you had done, and I just read some more about it - very interesting. I'd love to see the schematic for that!

    Hey Mike - Nice job! I *think* it was blinking too. Ever figure out why bits [16:14] work better?

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  • jasper_fracture commented on HackerBoxes's instructable HackerBoxes 0013: Autosport8 months ago
    HackerBoxes 0013: Autosport

    If you're using the demo sketch, HBcar.ino, given in the instructable, look toward the bottom of the code. You'll see 4 functions that look like - BLYNK_WRITE(V0), BLYNK(V1), BLYNK_WRITE(V2), BLYNK_WRITE(V3). These 4 functions are for forward, reverse, right, left respectively. On you phone app/Blynk end, each button should get a Virtual pin with the pin number corresponding to the function button. The button for "forward" gets Virtual Pin 0.The button for "reverse" gets Virtual Pin 1.The button for "right" gets Virtual Pin 2.The button for "left" gets Virtual Pin 3.For the board/code side, you just need to make sure that you have the motor leads connected properly.kcorresponding to 4 virtual

    If you're using the demo sketch, HBcar.ino, given in the instructable, look toward the bottom of the code. You'll see 4 functions that look like - BLYNK_WRITE(V0), BLYNK(V1), BLYNK_WRITE(V2), BLYNK_WRITE(V3). These 4 functions are for forward, reverse, right, left respectively. On your phone app/Blynk end, each button should get a Virtual pin with the pin number corresponding to the function button. The button for "forward" gets Virtual Pin 0.The button for "reverse" gets Virtual Pin 1.The button for "right" gets Virtual Pin 2.The button for "left" gets Virtual Pin 3.For the board/code side, you just need to make sure that you have the motor leads connected properly.

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  • jasper_fracture commented on HackerBoxes's instructable HackerBoxes 0013: Autosport8 months ago
    HackerBoxes 0013: Autosport

    Thanks, I hear you on adding the weight. Good idea. I changed the code from the slow right/reverse to more of a snappy turn with the wheels turning in opposite directions at max speed. Works better I think with it being more like a zero turn radius. Playing with the two IR modules now to see about getting the car to follow line. Interested to hear how yours turns out too.

    Francisco - If you're just trying to get data to the phone, Blynk makes pushing your sensor data really easy with "virtualWrite". Here's an example of how to send the ultrasonic data back to the phone app: http://pastebin.com/NE8zdJpKThe example uses board pins D6 and D7 / gpio pins 12 and 13, for the echo and trigger on the sensor respectively. It's all commented in the code too. Hope you get it working.

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  • jasper_fracture made the instructable HackerBoxes 0013: Autosport8 months ago
    HackerBoxes 0013: Autosport

    Son and I added the ultrasonic sensor, and it works "OK". I think we've gotten it to run in "automode" for a few minutes without us having to save it from being stuck in a corner or hung-up somewhere. Video of it navigating around some furniture and our piano is here: Code is still being worked-on, but we have it listed on our site - too long to post here: http://jasperfracture.com/hackerboxes-13-wifi-car-controlled-with-blynk-joystick-and-hc-sr04/

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  • jasper_fracture commented on HackerBoxes's instructable HackerBoxes 0013: Autosport8 months ago
    HackerBoxes 0013: Autosport

    Maine -When stuff like that happens to me, it's often because I didn't init values for gpio pins. It's hard to say without seeing your code, but leaving gpio pins hanging can cause you some grief. Not sure if it's your issue or not, but if you're not already, I'd recommend initializing the gpio pins to both output (or input if needed) as well as a HIGH or LOW state, e.g,pinMode(1,OUTPUT)digitalWrite(1,HIGH)At least, it be something you could then rule out...good luck with it.

    Someone asked about using the Blynk joystick widget with the wifi car. We (son and I) have been playing around with it and put together some code for the joystick version. Seems to work much better than the 4 button control version. Code is on our site: http://jasperfracture.com/hackerboxes-13-using-bly...Also, just wondering if anyone other than me has put the ESP board in backwards yet?! :)Fun project again...on to sensors now....

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  • jasper_fracture commented on HackerBoxes's instructable HackerBoxes 0012: Digital Logic8 months ago
    HackerBoxes 0012: Digital Logic

    Mike -Clarification - yes, it is normal for everything to turn on if you compile with the default setting "as output driving ground" for "Unused Pins". Compiling like this pulls all the unused outputs low and turns all the onboard stuff on.If you've got a project open, you can change the setting via the main menu: "Assignments->Device", click the "Device and Pin Options..." button, select "Unused Pins" under "Category". Last, make a selection from the "Reserve all unused pins" dropdown. Something like "as input tri-stated" instead of "as output driving ground".

    Set your unused pins to something other than the default "drive to ground". My son and I have been working on our hobby site, and the first few posts we did were some basic tutorials (block schematics, blinking led, binary led counter, etc.) for the Altera board: http://jasperfracture.com.

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  • jasper_fracture commented on HackerBoxes's instructable HackerBoxes 0012: Digital Logic9 months ago
    HackerBoxes 0012: Digital Logic

    You're right, but I just usually call it active low...unless you meant something different. All the LEDs, buzzer, switches, 7 segments, are all a good example of this on the CPLD included with this last box.

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  • jasper_fracture commented on HackerBoxes's instructable HackerBoxes 0012: Digital Logic9 months ago
    HackerBoxes 0012: Digital Logic

    HB - Just wanted to say how much I am enjoying the CPLD . This is the first time I have used one, and the ability to create circuits from such a high level is amazing to me. One of the first things that I did was hook up the oscillator and use several 7456 blocks to divide the frequency down to flicker an LED. I know, no real practical use, but it was a lot of fun for a first foray into playing around with CPLDs. Nice box! Would have liked some header pins for the CPLD though...

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  • jasper_fracture commented on HackerBoxes's instructable HackerBoxes 0012: Digital Logic9 months ago
    HackerBoxes 0012: Digital Logic

    Yes, it seems to run fine under Ubuntu 16.04 so far, although I had a few hiccups getting permissions setup properly for the Altera USB Blaster.

    HB, no header pins for the EPM240?

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  • jasper_fracture commented on HackerBoxes's instructable HackerBoxes 0012: Digital Logic9 months ago
    HackerBoxes 0012: Digital Logic

    I'd check the voltage on the 1st pin of the 7805 while you have the 9V battery hooked up.....make sure you actually the V you should have and not something like a broken connector. Might get lucky and save you a trip to RS or ordering another,. SuperMechaCow is right thought, I just ordered some from Mouser a month ago, and they were very inexpensive.

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  • jasper_fracture commented on HackerBoxes's instructable HackerBoxes 0008: Clockwork1 year ago
    HackerBoxes 0008: Clockwork

    Wow thanks ruthsarian! Your button issue does sound like a debounce problem. Might be able to address with a capacitor instead of the software?I haven't been able to mess with it too much for the past couple days due to other more pressing and less fun issues (yardwork), but I hope to jump back on it mid-week. Thanks for the update - it's a huge help, and please keep the updates coming if it's not too much trouble. Nice work!

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  • jasper_fracture commented on HackerBoxes's instructable HackerBoxes 0008: Clockwork1 year ago
    HackerBoxes 0008: Clockwork

    Seems like a good fix to me ruthsarian. That display was pretty bright. BTW, did you get your display working again or is still semi-hosed?

    That's great - thanks for the update and the instructions! Looking forward to trying it out in the morning.

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  • jasper_fracture commented on HackerBoxes's instructable HackerBoxes 0008: Clockwork1 year ago
    HackerBoxes 0008: Clockwork

    Grant - I ended up removing the 10K resistor at R2 and replaced it with a 2.2K resistor for better dimmer sensitivity.You could go lower towards 1K for more sensitivity or higher towards 10K for less.It's always 5 PM somewhere....apparently at your house. :)

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  • jasper_fracture commented on HackerBoxes's instructable HackerBoxes 0008: Clockwork1 year ago
    HackerBoxes 0008: Clockwork

    My LDR is at R5, the thermistor is at R4.I noticed that once I enclose the clock in the plastic housing, the dimming effect stops working. I have to completely cover the LDR to get it to work. I think the light from the display is too bright, so the dimmer never triggers.On a related note, if you look at the documentation included with the kit (displayed above in HB instructions), am I crazy or do they have R5 labeled as the LDR ("light sensor") in the notes, and on the schematics R5 is shown as the thermistor ?I ended up removing the 10K resistor at R2 and replaced it with a 2.2K resistor for better dimmer sensitivity.You could go lower towards 1K for more sensitivity or higher towards 10K for less.

    ....I should have added that there is a delay in the dimming/brightness effect of about 1.5 seconds.

    My LDR is at R5, the thermistor is at R4. I noticed that once I enclose the clock in the plastic housing, the dimming effect stops working. I have to completely cover the LDR to get it to work. I think the light from the display is too bright, so the dimmer never triggers.On a related note, if you look at the documentation included with the kit (displayed above in HB instructions), am I crazy or do they have R5 labeled as the LDR ("light sensor") in the notes, and on the schematics R5 is shown as the thermistor ?Good luck on the desolder!

    ruthsarian -My display definitely dims in darkness, gets brighter in light. It's a very noticeable change when it happens.Hope you get it working. I'd be interested to hear if you make any progress on programming the controller.

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  • jasper_fracture commented on HackerBoxes's instructable HackerBoxes 0008: Clockwork1 year ago
    HackerBoxes 0008: Clockwork

    <textarea style="width: 600px; height: 300px;" rows="20" readonly="readonly" name="code" cols="75">#include <Streaming.h>#include <Time.h>#include <LedControl.h>#include <DS1302RTC.h>#define DS1302_GND_PIN 6#define DS1302_VCC_PIN 5// RST=Pin9, DATA=Pin8, CLK=Pin7DS1302RTC RTC(9, 8, 7);// CS=Pin10, CLK=Pin11, DIN=Pin12LedControl lc = LedControl(12, 11, 10, 1);volatile int hundreds = 0;volatile int seconds = 0;volatile int minutes = 0;volatile int hours = 0;void setup() { Serial.begin(115200); // Activate RTC module digitalWrite(DS1302_GND_PIN, LOW); pinMode(DS1302_GND_PIN, OUTPUT); digitalWrite(DS1302_VCC_PIN, HIGH); pinMode(DS1302_VCC_PIN, OUTPUT); Serial << F("RTC module activated"); ...

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    <textarea style="width: 600px; height: 300px;" rows="20" readonly="readonly" name="code" cols="75">#include <Streaming.h>#include <Time.h>#include <LedControl.h>#include <DS1302RTC.h>#define DS1302_GND_PIN 6#define DS1302_VCC_PIN 5// RST=Pin9, DATA=Pin8, CLK=Pin7DS1302RTC RTC(9, 8, 7);// CS=Pin10, CLK=Pin11, DIN=Pin12LedControl lc = LedControl(12, 11, 10, 1);volatile int hundreds = 0;volatile int seconds = 0;volatile int minutes = 0;volatile int hours = 0;void setup() { Serial.begin(115200); // Activate RTC module digitalWrite(DS1302_GND_PIN, LOW); pinMode(DS1302_GND_PIN, OUTPUT); digitalWrite(DS1302_VCC_PIN, HIGH); pinMode(DS1302_VCC_PIN, OUTPUT); Serial << F("RTC module activated"); Serial << endl; delay(500); setSyncProvider(RTC.get); lc.shutdown(0, false); lc.setIntensity(0, 8); lc.clearDisplay(0); delay(100); // You could do this without setting up the interrupt for the timer. // I was playing around with adding .01's of seconds to the time and I used the timer for that. // You could use the code in ISR(TIMER1_COMPA_vect) with Delay(250) in the main loop instead. // Comment out the code below from cli() through sei() for the timer interrupt setup and the code for the ISR function. // Uncomment the code in the main loop. cli(); //set timer1 interrupt at 1Hz TCCR1A = 0; // set TCCR1A register to 0 TCCR1B = 0; // set TCCR1A register to 0 TCNT1 = 0; // set counter to 0 OCR1A = 3905;// = set compare match register to (16,000,000) / (4*1024) - 1 (.25 seconds) TCCR1B |= (1 << WGM12); // set CTC mode TCCR1B |= (1 << CS12) | (1 << CS10); // set 1024 prescaler TIMSK1 |= (1 << OCIE1A); // enable timer1 sei();}void loop() {/* seconds = second(); minutes = minute(); hours = hour(); // I used 8 bits for each piece of the time - 8 bits for seconds, 8 bits for minutes, 8 bits for hours // You could split it up also. One of the examples had some code to do this. I was lazy and did not. // seconds on row 1 lc.setRow(0, 2, byte(seconds)); // minutes on row 2 lc.setRow(0, 4, byte(minutes)); // hours on row 3 lc.setRow(0, 6, byte(hours)); // output it to Serial Monitor too. Serial << hours << ":" << minutes << ":" << seconds << endl; delay(250);*/}ISR(TIMER1_COMPA_vect) { seconds = second(); minutes = minute(); hours = hour(); // I used 8 bits for each piece of the time - 8 bits for seconds, 8 bits for minutes, 8 bits for hours // You could split it up also. One of the examples had some code to do this. I was lazy and did not. // seconds on row 1 lc.setRow(0, 2, byte(seconds)); // minutes on row 2 lc.setRow(0, 4, byte(minutes)); // hours on row 3 lc.setRow(0, 6, byte(hours)); // output it to Serial Monitor too. Serial << hours << ":" << minutes << ":" << seconds << endl;}</textarea>

    eburman -I put together a basic binary clock based off the example code. I tried to paste it into the comment, but it looked awful - long and no formatting. Is there any other way to share code in Instructables comments?Anyway, here is the link to the source code for a basic binary clock:Dropbox: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/63653564/Basic...PasteBin: http://pastebin.com/XiB0VfAc Good luck on your clock!

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  • jasper_fracture commented on HackerBoxes's instructable HackerBoxes 0008: Clockwork1 year ago
    HackerBoxes 0008: Clockwork

    Yes mine appears the same wayMy Arduino looks like it's labeled that way as well - "ACC" not "VCC". You should be fine using the "ACC" pin as a 5v/3.3V voltage source.

    If Titan Micro Electronics could only switch that from a decrease to an increase....think their sales on the TM1637 would go through the roof. Maybe on their next Clock Display Module...... :-)

    My Arduino looks like it's labeled that way as well - "ACC" not "VCC". You should be fine using the "ACC" pin as a 5V/3.3V voltage source.

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  • jasper_fracture commented on HackerBoxes's instructable HackerBoxes 0008: Clockwork1 year ago
    HackerBoxes 0008: Clockwork

    Tim -I had the same error, and after banging my head on the desk a few times, I realized I had the wiring backwards on the Arduino. Check it and make sure you didn't do the same thing. I was certain I didn't have it wrong, and after double checking....yeah, I had it backwards.

    Hypathie -Try updating the driver that Earthwormchris linked to in his post: http://www.ifamilysoftware.com/news37.htmlAs for the synch problem : programmer not responding, it's a little quirky, but you have to hold the reset button until the upload process starts. I find it a little easier to time it in verbose mode: File->Preferences->Show verbose output during....check compilation and/or upload. My process - I compile. Then I hold the reset button on the Arduino, click the arrow icon in the Arduino IDE to start the upload. In my IDE all the verbose lines for compilation are white. As soon as the make file runs the avrdude command, the text turns orange. That's about the time I release the reset button on the Arduino. Upload should commence. It's a little janky, but it w...

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    Hypathie -Try updating the driver that Earthwormchris linked to in his post: http://www.ifamilysoftware.com/news37.htmlAs for the synch problem : programmer not responding, it's a little quirky, but you have to hold the reset button until the upload process starts. I find it a little easier to time it in verbose mode: File->Preferences->Show verbose output during....check compilation and/or upload. My process - I compile. Then I hold the reset button on the Arduino, click the arrow icon in the Arduino IDE to start the upload. In my IDE all the verbose lines for compilation are white. As soon as the make file runs the avrdude command, the text turns orange. That's about the time I release the reset button on the Arduino. Upload should commence. It's a little janky, but it works. Good luck with it.

    Tim -I had the same error, and after banging my head on the desk a few times, I realized I had the wiring backwards on the Arduino. Check it and make sure you didn't do the same thing. I was certain I didn't have it wrong, and after double checking....yeah, I had it backwards.

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