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  • jcweicom commented on jcweicom's instructable DC Mini Circuit Break Box1 year ago
    DC Mini Circuit Break Box

    oh. now i see your point. thanks. first, i have to run the car while running compressor. otherwise, it will drain battery quickly. car's generator could output 130 Amps as max. car itself takes 40A, and compressor takes 30A. So the battery is not drained when car is running. Secondly, if short circuit current is under 60A (you mentioned 30A as example) and would not trigger breaker, I guess battery is able to take it. I could be wrong. I think any short circuit is in hundreds of AMPS, and the heat it generates damages the battery. If short circuit AMP is only 30Amps, the heat it generates is in this normal design capability. Correct me if i am wrong.

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  • jcweicom commented on jcweicom's instructable DC Mini Circuit Break Box1 year ago
    DC Mini Circuit Break Box

    do not understand. would you please clarify? amperage depends on compressor. initially it is around 120A for half a second, then it drops to 30A at 0 PSI and 50A at 150 PSI. So at normal working condition, breaker will not be tripped.

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  • jcweicom commented on jcweicom's instructable DC Mini Circuit Break Box1 year ago
    DC Mini Circuit Break Box

    you are right. I do not need 2 circuit breakers. i put two in case 1 is bad. i put many safety features in, such as what if a wire is forcefully pulled out from the box, what if screws inside box get loose, etc. also, breaker is not switch. i should put a solenoid and remote wireless control in. but they are probably already too big for the box. another reason is that i have already spent $200 on this box since i used all the top of the line material (all material are made in the USA). For occasional use, it is good enough. i just stop this project since it is already above my budget target. But you might be wrong on DC, AC breakers. They are different in structure internally. They should be be mix used. The breaker i used has some "delay" effect. It tolerates initial current ...

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    you are right. I do not need 2 circuit breakers. i put two in case 1 is bad. i put many safety features in, such as what if a wire is forcefully pulled out from the box, what if screws inside box get loose, etc. also, breaker is not switch. i should put a solenoid and remote wireless control in. but they are probably already too big for the box. another reason is that i have already spent $200 on this box since i used all the top of the line material (all material are made in the USA). For occasional use, it is good enough. i just stop this project since it is already above my budget target. But you might be wrong on DC, AC breakers. They are different in structure internally. They should be be mix used. The breaker i used has some "delay" effect. It tolerates initial current spike to 120 amps up to few millisecond.

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  • jcweicom commented on jcweicom's instructable DC Mini Circuit Break Box1 year ago
    DC Mini Circuit Break Box

    The compressor has 3/4 HP motor, is using Car's 12V battery. I use power meter checked its AMP. The starting current is 120 amps, and running current is 30 Amps at 0 PSI. Its specs says that it is drawing 50A when at 100 PSI. So 60 Amp fuse is good enough. Your 28 Gallon is using 120V wall power. So it is 120x5 = 600 W power consumption. Mine is 12x30 = 360 W power consumption. I put 2 circuit breaks in the box. One is protecting hot, and one is protecting ground. Also, if you pull wire hard and force it break, hot line will be detached inside box, preventing it from shoring the circuit. The wire is top marine grade at 6 gouge, good for unto 60 Amps.

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  • jcweicom commented on xenobiologista's instructable Valve adapter for air mattress1 year ago
    Valve adapter for air mattress

    the only one that remotely works in the market is "AIRHEAD AHAD-1 Air Daddy Adapter", which is not easy to use at all. I called Coleman and was told there is no such adapter existing. so i started hand made my own. see pics. i made two versions from raw material. they work very well. The output to the air bed input is 100% tight match. They are super overly solid. the only downside is they are pricy. brass one costs me $12 raw material, and other stainless steel one is $20 raw material. The black part is a heat shrink wrap on brass. let me know if you want to duplicate and i will give you raw material parts number (instructables@jcwei.com).

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