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typically if it is called a ballast, it is a self saturating type of magnetic reactor. there are to types of magnetic control reactors, self saturating, or with a separate variable magnetic flux control winding for buck boost operation for control to add or reduce core saturation. isolating the white wire from secondary to primary disables the self saturation function.
technically without an earth ground, there is no neutral. since the neutral, connects to earth ground as some point making the opposing polarity hot to earth ground. most equipment transformers, the secondary is isolated from earth ground. giving you the option of choosing, circuit ground, chassis ground, or earth grounding.
that is kind of deceptive, since gfi only protects you from hot wire or hot chassis to ground.it, does not necessarily protect you from neutral to hot wire. the gfi, is still functional from the source to the transformer input and chassis.a ground wire, increases danger without gfi by adding another path from hot to ground as well as hot to neutral.with ungrounded wires, you can touch one or the other independently and not receive a shock but not come in contact with both wires.
non-gfi circuit breakers are only meant to protect the wires not you or your equipment.120 volts is the most dangerous voltage resulting in the most dangerous amperage at or near 1/10 amp through the body stopping the heart.and 60 hz is the most dangerous frequency, since it is the frequency the heart fibulae's causing death. or suffocation, causing the lungs and diaphragm to oscillate rapidly.the danger of getting cooked, blinded or flash burned, is from voltages above 110/120 volts and amperage above 1/10 of an amp.
maybe, maybe not i, do know two wire steppers did exist. though i never investigated how this is accomplished, whether their is a phase splitter internally or not. this is why i included, testing the motor to make sure it is a motor not a stepper. in fact it is a good idea, to test the motors, steppers, and parts to insure their in working condition before you reuse them. the fact is i do not have any old read only, cd, dvd, cd/dvd read only optical drives to verify what is in them. all, i have is the more sophisticated r/w drives. and most of the failures, tend to be from excessively dirty read write heads or corrupted software drivers. i, even have old 50 pin ide drives that are still operational.
well there is a way to count the cmef kickback of a dc motor or the use of optical encoding discs. or even lasers, to measure travel distance. so i, imagine it is possible with more sophisticated software and faster computer chips.
well it is possible the motor could be the same, but these have a gear housing included. and it, does have quite a bit of torque for such a small motor. do not know how much the motor spins for each step since i never took it apart, to check the gear ratio. but the ratio can't be too great, since the action is fast.the guy who wanted me to build the pulse controller circuit, gave me two and some solar cells to do the experimental design and fabrication work with for a solar tracking device. but that, was about 16 to 20 years ago when i was a jr scientist for SERI.
all disc data, and indexes are kept in the formatted executive portion of the disk. the executive index, tells which track the information is located. so the disk will first read and load, the executive dos program information. which gives the precise location of the data on the disk. as all the tracks, are labeled during the formatting.
well first you want to make sure they are not, two wire stepper motors. i, do have some old small two wire steppers. best way to test, is to apply voltage and see if it runs or steps. only the motor that runs the read read/write on the slide rails head will possibly be a stepper. but two wire steppers, are very rare.
do you even know, why platinum or palladium starts fires without an ignition source? and a person going for a phd, does not know this? or what element, is added to prevent this undesirable effect in platinum or palladium jewelry?anyone who, would ever use a platinum or palladium anodes should be aware of this danger.try throwing flowers of sulphur, in either O1 or O3 it will explode. and it, is only normally considered a combustible in normal air or pure O2 requiring an ignition source...don't use platinum or palladium, around flammable materials. do not store, them with combustibles. they, can start fires or explosions without a spark.nor am i wording this, to speak to phd's. i am writing for, those who may only be novices less of than college attendance. not every body here, is a chemist with a phd.and forgive me if i am wrong, by assuming that somebody studying for a phd in chemistry or be a phd in chemistry should know this.
yeah but, the introduction of mercury vapor and halogens. pretty much ruined my supply, of large 500w, 750w, 1200w to 5000w burnt out incandescent bulbs for this.since a 60w bulb, is only good for about 50ml and too fragile to take too much pressure. but do make, good small boiling flasks. you certainly, would not want to use this with any coiled condenser but the straight through condensers like a west.but as for being cheaper not if you are buying new bulbs to do this, especially for the larger wattage bulbs.
why it is all about oxidization, reduction, safety concerns, and proper methods. without going into too much specific detail, to give your brain something to think about.the more you know about what your working with, the more creative, and inventive you can safely be.what is the point to thinking your making one thing, and actually producing something more toxic and far more dangerous? because of the lack, of research.i have even used this similar technique to make, highly reactive, highly explosive, and highly toxic chlorine dioxide acid gas and or chloric acid. using, the proper materials and voltage level. and you do not want to do this, unless you know what you are doing.the products you get, from any electrolyte is very much dependent on the material used and the voltage level. the amount produced is dependent on, the amount of electrolyte and the current. raising the voltage level above 2volts in this case, will not produce more oxygen. it will, produce more and more chlorine as the voltage increases. and chlorine, is an oxidizer much like O2 but slightly more reactive and extremely toxic.but if you, do not have any creativity, or curiosity this probably won't mean anything to you.
probably safer for the novice, instead of dumping in sodium hydroxide resulting in a violent boiling. hot enough to melt through, plastics for sure.but then i, have all the right equipment for this and more. but mostly all i have done for the past ten years, is a lot of reflux distillation of essencially oils and fragrances.
use nitrogen monoxide NO, it's lighter than air and you'll get a real laugh out of it.
well actually they are the same amount of atoms. it's just that oxygen is bi-valent decreasing the space. if you could keep the oxygen in it's mono-atomic form the volumes of gas would be the same.essencially what happens is H20 + 1,5e = 2H + O but at above 15 degrees f the O will rapidly combine with another O + O to make the bi-valent O2 and maybe O3. nascent Oxygen O, is extremely more reactive than chlorine gas. and will result in hypergolic explosive auto-ignition with anything flammable, and result in a fierce auto-ignition fire with combustibles. and is the principal reaction in catalytic heaters and catalytic converters using platinum or palladium which strips the O2 molecule into it's nascent O form.ozone O3 is also more reactive than O2, and slightly less reactive than nascent O. and will result in explosive hypergolic auto-ignition, of flammables, and some combustibles. and slightly more reactive than chlorine.if you ever, plan on making nascent oxygen in any moderate quantity please be aware it will set your hair and combustible clothes on fire fiercely like gunpowder.
for sure i, have done some pretty not too smart stuff i would not like to see anyone else repeat the hard way. let's just say i, have had a lot more miracles than the average person.
what is produced, is also dependent upon the voltage. typically 1.5 volts is used to make hydrogen and oxygen. over three volts to about 6.3 with produce sodium hypochlorite, from about 6.3 to 8.5 will produce sodium chlorate, and above that will produce sodium perchlorate. all of which are extreme oxidizers and chlorine donors when in powder form. but to make sodium hydroxide, and chlorine gas requires as membrane film separator. but at 9V is defiantly going to produce chlorine gas first and a lot of anode corrosion.
nah i guarantee to you, that in a salt electrolyte solution you are going to produce chlorine and sodium hydroxide with the products separated. once you have depleted the chlorine and produced sodium hydroxide then you will produce oxygen and hydrogen unless your anode is an easily corrodible metal and produce metallic chloride or oxide. especially if you use, more than 2V.
that depends on the voltage, if you keep your voltage below two volts you will produce oxygen instead of chlorine. typically they use 6V @ thousands of amps to make chlorine gas and sodium hydroxide with a membrane separator to prevent the production of hypochlorite and chlorate. the higher the voltage, the greater is the corrosion of the expensive anodes.
well at first, it will make sodium hypochlorite and chlorine gas but at 9V it will eventually produce sodium perchlorate without any separation. the progression is sodium hypochlorite under 3.3V, sodium chlorate to 7V, and perchlorate over 7V. 9V will pass you through all three stages and give off chlorine before you produce oxygen. chlorine is much more soluble in water and will slowly produce hydrochloric acid. but by separating the products, you will produce hydrogen and chlorine gas until the salt becomes sodium hydroxide which will corrode electrodes.now the cathode most likely won't corrode, but the anode most likely will corrode because of chlorine or oxygen. i have always used a titanium platinum or palladium plated anode for gas generation. now just about any metal will work for the cathode without corrosion as long as the cell is active. when the cell is not active, the cathode should be removed.to split water, you only need about 1.5V with lots of amps. the best chemical to use, for this is either lye or sulphuric acid or sodium acid sulphate as a much safer alternative. or you, could use the persulfuric acid in some toilet bowl cleaners.i have however used soap as an electrolyte to make explosive soap bubbles allowing the hydrogen and oxygen to mix. don't make too much of this, it makes a heck of a bang. and keep your face, away from it. do not scare your neighbors with this, by filling a weather balloon with a long fuse. but an empty paint can, filled with this stuff with an auto-ignition coil will definitely send the lid flying with a loud report.
a flame or laser cutter, also uses burning to cut with.
sorry but an electric arc in air, creates and ionized plasma. nor is electric energy, the only way to create a plasma.and cutting, burning is not the only use of plasma such as automobile ignition, xenon flash tubes, bug zappers, electric lighters, tokomak reactors, to sodium vapor lamps. you can deny, these things utilize plasma in their operation only in ignorance of what plasma is. and ionization resulting from, and intense energy flux.applications of which, are only limited by ones lack of creativity and imagination.
curiosity, with ingenuity and creativity are always inspiring to see.
the most common application of plasma, is in fluorescent lighting. so what is your, definition of usual?the ionization of any material, in an electric field is plasma.even helium co2 lasers, operate on a high frequency plasma principle. even electroplating, in a vacuum uses a metallic plasma.and electric arc, with any material creates a plasma. even a plasma globe, uses a plasma.the discharge of, an electric arc in air creates a plasma even lightening is an ionized plasma.solar flares, are an electro-magnetic plasma.
grabbing the ceramic, on an energized spark plug? not a good idea! those high voltage rings, and length are there for a very good insulating reason.and since this is a continuous electric burning plasma arc, i would not want to risk it as a thumb cooker too. as many spark plugs, have a built in resistance.
actually an electric grill lighter, is a very simple plasma torch for igniting flammable gas.
you need to be careful here, some plasma balls only operate from 15khz to 30khz. but operate in the mili-or-micro amp range external to the globe below the human sensation range. though in my experience with them, you do barely feel something.if you were to touch the emitter, in the inside of the globe (if this were possible) you would regret it. but amplification on the outside, would also increase this effect.and if concentrated, can give you a nasty painful long lasting tunneling burn under the skin. the skin effect, of 15khz to 30 kHz is not that great as in the rf 125khz range and above.the higher you go in frequency, the greater is the skin effect. but you have to be in the uhf frequency or above for the electricity to travel outside of your body.but if the frequency goes too high, copper becomes unconducive and you may become electrically and thermally conductive. this is why 10micron radar and microwave ovens, travels in the air inside a wave guide surfaces which repels the electrons like a mirror does light.hospitals use diathermy, that operates around 30khz to 50khz. high frequency, close to the human body causes dielectric heating. though i doubt that any plasma glove, would generate sufficient power to cause any damage when used as intended. please keep in mind, when using anything not as intended it can be dangerous.
chrysanthemum extract in soap and water, may be harmful to pets while still wet.or neem oil in soap and water as a contact killer. not harmful to pets like cats and dogs.strong soap and water, will also kill cockroaches on contact. though may take a little longer.have not tried marigold extract, which also may work. but marigolds, do repel many insects which may indicate it is toxic to many of them but not all insects.none of these, are harmful to humans.would not recommend trying poinsettia extract, since it is poisonous to cats, dogs, humans besides insects.extract from cucumber skins, will repel but not kill ants. though there are plants, with a high cyanide content that will kill ants and pert near everything else. which i, do not recommend unless you are highly experienced.
and also diatomaceous earth, will kill many pests but won't harm pets and humans. can even be taken internally, to even kill parasites in the digestive tracts of humans and animals - takes a little while to work though.
well according to your stupid opinion, i take that as a compliment.
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