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I have an older Drill doctor 300 and have been pretty happy with the results. I don't think it's much good on smaller bits (<3/16" or so) but works well on the larger ones. A couple times a year I drag it out, review the manual, and sharpen the odd bits laying around in my drawer. I keep the in-use bits in stands, holders, or individual wooden trays so they don't bang against each other and get dull.
Many, many years ago (late 60s?) I made something like this and used a masonite board with a glossy finish and cut squares of aluminum tape. It fit the overall design pretty nicely.
Good idea, but a simple idea is to just put a drop or two of Locktite or other threadlocking compound. Also note that there are different versions of threadlocking compound--some for permanent use and others for when you want to loosen the nut.
Nice idea that I've used before. A couple of comments: Yes, standard taps will work fine on wood. If you want want to toughen up the threads a bit, soak with some CA (superglue).Lee Valley Tools did some testing awhile ago and found that especially in the smaller sizes (screw sizes 4 & 6) a tapped machine screw held better than a standard wood screw.
Pretty nice. One difference I used on mine was to use some laminate covered shelving for the table. That way glue and other stuff doesn't stick.
I add a rare earth magnet to my drills and drivers to hold extra bits.
Here's a couple: Use them to store half-done sewing or other small projects. A binder clip at the top holds them on a long pegboard hook.Hold spice mixes I make for friends.Hold some bandages and antiseptic for a first aid kit in our cars.Use as an emergency plastic glove when handling messes.Keep paperwork organized, clean, and handy.
Nice ideas. I cut a slit in a tennis ball then slid on the end of a shelf support to keep from hitting my head.
Nice - very detailed and well done. I have a suggestion for steps 10/11 where you run the wires through the holes in the toolbox, and that would be to add grommets to the holes before running the wire through. Constant movement could wear through the insulation resulting in a short. Good luck with your robot!
Nice job and good looking project. I like that you admitted it wasn't done on the first take. It helps us mere mortals not to get discouraged.
Pretty "cool". I'd suggest using industrial type denatured alcohol (available in hardware stores) for cleaning. The type you show is only 70% alcohol which means it's 30% water.
It doesn't really remove rust unless you use some kind of abrasive with it. It mostly best for old caked on oil and grime and general dirt.
Not really. It mostly for caked on dirt, old oil, grease and grime. I use it with a brush-old toothbrush, kitchen brush, etc.
Sorry, it was "simple green." It's a non-toxic cleaner/degreaser. I buy it by the gallon and dilute it in spray bottles or for washing. I use it to clean bicycle chains, tools, plastics, countertops; great for getting pitch off of circular saw blades etc. After cleaning I rinse with very hot water so the metal will dry and then follow up with appropriate lube for whatever I've cleaned. I've been using it for years.
Nice info. If you have a "gritty" feeling chuck, instead of disassembling it, you might want to try cleaning it first. I use very hot water with Simply Green cleaner and WD-40 to flush out the grit. Then some 3in1 oil to lube it after it's dried off.
Very cool idea. Nicely done. I'd use a Sharpie pen to color in the dots for some contrast. Another idea is that they make a long threaded hex connector that might work, but I think your idea of separate nuts looks better.
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Very nice and very professional looking. You give all the steps, but the details that make it so appealing are months of experience in the learning. Good job.
Very nice work. If it wasn't for your hand in the pictures, I would've thought they were full size. I'm impressed.
Pretty cool - I'm thinking up upgrading to LEDs in my shop. BTW, if you use lamp cord for wiring and it's not color coded, look closely and you'll find one wire has a ridge and one is smooth. That way you can tell which to hook to plus and which to negative. It's probably obvious, but it was quite awhile until I noticed it.
Great project. Nice and simple. Caution: reading this comment may cause eyestrain; getting too close to computer screen may flatten nose and stain screen; thinking about how to use this may give you a headache; don't forget to breathe while scrolling this message; make sure to move away from the computer at least once a day to eat and drink or death may occur within a week; don't walk in front of speeding trucks; eat your greens; razor blades may be sharp and hurt you.
My cans don't last that long. A person could write an instructable about the uses of paste wax; I coat my table and band saw tables with it, on my wood planes and other tools, use to lube wooden wheels and other moving parts on toys, as a final finish over lacquer, etc.