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That looks like it has interleaved laminations so you'd have to take it apart leaf by leaf. If it's varnished together that would be a lot of work. Find a transformer which has the E laminations that separate easily from the I laminations, and the bobbin with the windings just slips right off. Solder wires to the terminals of the finer windings and you're done. Or, buy a small reel of magnet wire.
I have some chips that would be ideal for this. IPS6401. Temp and current protected MOSFET and driver, automotive grade. I sense an Instructable coming on.
Here's a circuit that works: Taillight Converter
Now you need a woofer. A sewer tile or glazed tile enclosure (sauerkraut crock?) would do it. You could use an offset hole and not mess around with the equalizer. To me the video just sounds like your room, or maybe it's the recording. Better to use a tone sweep and measure the SPL, so you can find the peaks. Caution people that using a different speaker or enclosure size invalidates the design and they have to do the calculations themselves.
Not too many people listen to bare drivers. The enclosure is part of the speaker system like a violin body is to the strings. You're going to need a woofer to go with these midranges, too. The last few seconds of his video, my sub just came alive .... oh, that wasn't his speakers, that was direct.
Open the back on that wooden mounting and you might get some bass out of it. Then use a bigger speaker. Then use a car tyre.
It's a lot easier to scrounge an old transformer and take it apart to get the windings. You can solder the two wires to an audio jack. It's mono, so use the two connections together, with the other wire soldered to the ground. Plug it into an audio amp.
This is pretty clever. But...I find it's just as quick to plug into the headphone jack to get full fidelity stereo, and you may have enough power to run passive speakers. If you have an amp, you'd get any amount of power you want.
I've zapped many a NiCd this way and got most of them to work. For a while.
If you cover blank areas with tape or big fat marker, you will use less ferric chloride. Connect them all and you'll have a nice ground plane for better shielding.
Small receiving tubes use barium getters, which result in that silvery stuff in the top of the tube that turns white when it goes to air. Not toxic, but don't eat it. Mercury tubes are industrial types, pretty rare. I had some ignitrons that contained pounds of mercury. Fluorescent lamp tubes contain small amounts.
I put strips into a U shaped channel used for mounting shelves. The shape shields your eyes from direct LED light. The other mod I did was to use a PWM dimmer box. They're $3 or so from China. I put an illuminated switch on the box so I can see the switch in the dark. I use a 12V power supply in the basement to power this and a few other gadgets and lights around the house. The only problem I've had is some of the segments have crapped out after almost 2 years of use. You get what you pay for. I over-lit it to begin with, but the gaps look silly. At least they're hard to see because of the shielding of the mounting strip.
You need patience to use solar power. Plus, you don't want to put too much current into a battery.
There are commercially available peltier cooler dehumidifiers. You could dry your cellar and get distilled water. However, the efficiency ratings tend to be vague. They should last a long time if made well, and the parts should be easily repaired (power supply, fan, cooler module) compared to a refrigerant based machine. Then again, I have a 30 year old dehumidifier that still runs like new.
Or, if you have a welder, zap it and there's no way it will loosen up.
I wrap colored tape around sockets and wrench handles. It cuts down the sorting by 50%.
I guess Mad Man Muntz was before your time, but he manufactured cheap TVs in the tube era. He'd go around to the design benches and snip out a component. If the TV still worked, it was off the parts list after that. So if it works for you without the damper circuit, with no radio interference, no problem. But the parasitic oscillation might intermodulate with the signal somehow; I've seen reports of high noise levels. Try it with and without the cap. You might look for a more modern chip. The NJM2113, for instance, has a push-pull output so no output capacitor is needed. Most chips today are class D, so they are more efficient. But so many are surface mount only.
I pulled out my 1980 National Semiconductor Audio/Radio Handbook for the answer to this. The LM386 has a tendency to oscillate in the RF range (5-10 MHz) on the negative swing when run into a heavy load. It's not a continuous heavy oscillation, but a little bit of fuzz on the bottom end. The solutions are to damp out the oscillation with the RC circuit, or to run a few turns of the output lead through a ferrite bead. If you run it at a lower voltage, or a lighter load, it may not oscillate. If it doesn't bother you or neighboring radio receivers, no problem.
Crawling in my beer can means war!
Yellow jackets are carnivorous, and feed on the bugs that are eating my garden. So I leave them alone now, as long as they don't build nests near the house.
I've found that they need another 10 dB of gain to run off a guitar. I use an effects box as a preamp. I also built a preamp in a box using a TL091 FET amp chip and a 9V battery.
My son's forester HAD the same issue, fixed it 2 months ago, similar method!
Do you need to control the speed, or just turn it on and off? You'll need a higher power transistor, and a FET would be easier to drive.
I suggest two substitutions:1. Use Gorilla glue, which sets fast, works with wet wood (requires it, actually), fills gaps, paints well, strong. 2. Instead of PBR, drink water because it tastes the same; or a dark Flemish abbey ale. I save the PBR for in-laws and baiting slug traps. (Just came back from Belgium so I'm spoiled.)
The regulator chip inside takes the 12V (more like 13.8 when the car's running) and regulates it down to 5V. If you feed it less than 12V it just dissipates less power, so that's good.
The regulator chip inside takes the 12V (more like 13.8) and regulates it down to 5V. If you feed it less than 112V it just dissipates less power, so that's good.
Answer: bad idea. If you have that much RF energy running through the house, you either live next to a radio station or need to be evaluated for dangerous levels of power. Unless you generate the power, it probably wouldn't be reliable. And if you do, it would be less effective than running wires. It would look cool, though.
Uber Home Automation w/ Arduino & Pi
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