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How to Rebuild a BionX e-Bike Battery Pack
Desulfator for 12V Car Batteries, in an Altoids Tin
Smoking in an apartment
Kane Tsugi Joint - Three way pinned corner mitre
There’s a new, little known way at www.ezBatteries.info to bring nearly ANY dead battery back life again… I’ve already tried it with car, golf cart, laptop, and phone batteries that were completely dead ...and now ...they're just like new again! With this method, you won't have to buy new pricey batteries anymore. You can just recondition your old batteries and save a lot of money. And this new battery reconditioning method is so simple and quick…And this works for car, phone, and laptop batteries!
ESP8266 WiFi Module for Dummies
In order to carry on this activity, legally or otherwise, you hear one expression used over and over: "Check your local laws." A one-word question: How? (It's not as easy as it sounds). Try it.Another question for those who like moral debates: If you leave your house unlocked (or inadequately locked as this instructable suggests) and your house is robbed, who is responsible? Pretend you're an insurance agent and answer the question. The amount you get from your insurance company determines your level of responsibility. In most cases, the criminal is not even in the discussion.
Deep down in the comments other people have said the same about the venerable old IRFZ44N. One or two commenters listed alternatives though I don't know how good they are. I chose the IRFZ44N because it is fully "on" at logic levels but will take a gate to source voltage (Vgs) of up to 20V, a maximum drain to source voltage (Vds) of 55V, and a maximum power dissipation of 110 Watts. Any N-channel MOSFET in those ranges should work as well. As for setting R2, just start in the mid-range and follow Step 4. Bear in mind that this is a voltage device, not a current device. If your current meter shows anything over an amp you will overheat things. A fast scope will help you a lot but it is not required. A 15k 10-turn trim pot for R2 might make the adjustment less sensitive. Yes, the tone is important. You may or may not hear it if you use inductors that are wildly different from mine. You'll definitely not hear it if your 555 is not working properly. You should see a nice series of short-duration 12V pulses going into the gate of your FET (see Step 4). If the signal is clean then the FET will not get warm. If it is noisy then the FET may not turn off completely causing it to overheat. The inductors, C4 and D2, however, will get quite warm to the touch. The trick is to adjust the pots so they do not become too hot to touch after extended use. In my case that corresponded with a total current consumption of about .7 amps and a 50V spike going into the battery.
Interesting and valuable project indeed :) some questions on my first build. What type of FET is critical for the circuit to work? The IRFZ44V is not common in large parts of world anymore, the STP55NF06L I had at hand obviously not working (logic FET). Regarding the R2 how low can the value be set? Low value=low output amps? If the tone is not produced=not working circuit? my inductors is contracting heavily without any tone. Thanks for the good work and excellent presentation!
Could one add a simple low-voltage-disconnect (via mosfets or relays) between the desulphator and battery? So you could hook it up and walk away; and know when you returned, it would not have drained the battery completely... Say disconnect at 10.5v? Or would running thru a relay or mosfet negatively effect the pulse?
This looks GREAT man! Just what I have been looking for. Giving this a go :) Thanks a lot!
There’s a new way called EZbattery (www.EZbattery.info) to bring nearly any type of old battery back to life so it’s just like new again. This method works with nearly every type of battery out there ...and it’s simple and quick. In case you’re wondering, you’ll be able to bring car, phone, and laptop batteries back to life with this. It even works with solar/off-grid, marine, golf cart, and forklift batteries. Plus, many more!
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