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5CommentsIstanbul, TR
Istanbul-based Industrial Designer.
  • kozbilek commented on aldricnegrier's instructable Mega Prusa i31 month ago
    Mega Prusa i3

    We are using locally made Sigma 3D hotend in here. I think the point is, as you said, printer works well and i dont want to get in trouble with it for now. :)You are talking about amazing print speeds and chimera plan sounds great. I've never seen one in working condition but excited to see the results. Please share some photos after you build it.

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  • kozbilek commented on aldricnegrier's instructable Mega Prusa i32 months ago
    Mega Prusa i3

    Thank you stormychel. I know that feeling, sometimes it's very hard to get money & free time together in the same place. :)

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  • kozbilek commented on aldricnegrier's instructable Mega Prusa i34 months ago
    Mega Prusa i3

    Hi there,I mentioned some of my problems in the below. Moving Y-axis design is practical for building and designing but moving a large mass lowers the quality (at high speeds), makes big problems for fine-adjusting and it's going to cost much more than what u can imagine. (bigger motors, different drivers, etc.)So i think bridge type cnc machines (like Shapeoko) are more suitable for 40+cm3 usage. At the end, it will cost a lot less than prusa design with more satisfactory results and reliability.

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  • kozbilek commented on aldricnegrier's instructable Mega Prusa i35 months ago
    Mega Prusa i3

    Hi everyone,First of all i have to say thanks for all the ideas and suggestions that you share, it was a big help. I also try to design a machine with 40cm3 build volume, very nice to be able to produce big things as a single piece. :)I've studied both Megaprusa and P3steel designs and come up with the design as you can see in the below. I named it "Daedalus i3".I have few suggestions for those who want to make a machine of this size;- We made 2 different versions of this design from 5mm and 3mm ST37 steel and 5mm one come out amazingly rigid but soooo heavy & 3mm one is very light but can't deal with the vibrations enough. So, i think 4mm steel is the right choice. (or if you have time & crazy enough to do it, you can design a machine with monocoque-like chassis from ...see more »Hi everyone,First of all i have to say thanks for all the ideas and suggestions that you share, it was a big help. I also try to design a machine with 40cm3 build volume, very nice to be able to produce big things as a single piece. :)I've studied both Megaprusa and P3steel designs and come up with the design as you can see in the below. I named it "Daedalus i3".I have few suggestions for those who want to make a machine of this size;- We made 2 different versions of this design from 5mm and 3mm ST37 steel and 5mm one come out amazingly rigid but soooo heavy & 3mm one is very light but can't deal with the vibrations enough. So, i think 4mm steel is the right choice. (or if you have time & crazy enough to do it, you can design a machine with monocoque-like chassis from thinner steel, kinda Wanhao style.)- Silicone heaters with SSRs works great. But if you want to leave the machine on its own or want to print while you are sleeping, you can buy it with built-in thermal fuse and be sure you connect ground wire to Y-axis build plate. I also use power switch with 10A fuse, it feels safer. Mains electricity is not a joke and i don't trust RAMPS board that much. :)- I use M5 threaded rods for Z-axis with DIY backlash nut design (classic 2x M5 nuts and 1x spring thing.) but M8 rods going to be a better choice, if you could afford use proper 8mm ACME rods for it. It improves the quality noticeably.- I use KH42KM2B009 model NEMA17 motors with built-in vib. dampers on them and they work OK. No skipping steps @ 60mm/s.- I use LRS350-12 PSU without any problems but if you want a machine that turns itself off after printing, use modified ATX PSU. It's a nice feature to have.- I use 3mm 6061 aluminum plate for Y-axis and for the frog plate but you can't make it perfectly flat. So you have to use inductive sensor and auto bed-leveling feature for trouble-free big size prints. (Use NPN type with long detection distance - 8mm or more, like LJ18A3-8-Z/BX)- I use LM12UU type bearings with cable ties but i don't think they are good enough. For the new design im drawing, i will go for SCE...UU (also called SC...UU) type bearings with proper mounting solutions.- If you can, make connection points for them and use cable chains for wiring along Z and X axis. Spiral cable wraps are not good enough.- Also i got some ringing problem at high speeds along the Y-axis and couldn't get rid of them by changing the belt tension and acceleration & jerk settings. I think its because of the spring based Y build plate & general problem with prusa design. What do you think about this?You know what they say, "a chain is only as strong as its weakest link.". I hope I'll be back with new updates, so stay tuned. :)

    Hi everyone,First of all i have to say thanks for all the ideas and suggestions that you share, it was a big help. I also try to design a machine with 40cm3 build volume, very nice to be able to produce big things as a single piece. :)I've studied both Megaprusa and P3steel designs and come up with the design as you can see in the below. I named it "Daedalus i3".I have few suggestions for those who want to make a machine of this size;- We made 2 different versions of this design from 5mm and 3mm ST37 steel and 5mm one come out amazingly rigid but soooo heavy & 3mm one is very light but can't deal with the vibrations enough. So, i think 4mm steel is the right choice. (or if you have time & crazy enough to do it, you can design a machine with monocoque-like chassis from ...see more »Hi everyone,First of all i have to say thanks for all the ideas and suggestions that you share, it was a big help. I also try to design a machine with 40cm3 build volume, very nice to be able to produce big things as a single piece. :)I've studied both Megaprusa and P3steel designs and come up with the design as you can see in the below. I named it "Daedalus i3".I have few suggestions for those who want to make a machine of this size;- We made 2 different versions of this design from 5mm and 3mm ST37 steel and 5mm one come out amazingly rigid but soooo heavy & 3mm one is very light but can't deal with the vibrations enough. So, i think 4mm steel is the right choice. (or if you have time & crazy enough to do it, you can design a machine with monocoque-like chassis from thinner steel, kinda Wanhao style.)- Silicone heaters with SSRs works great. But if you want to leave the machine on its own or want to print while you are sleeping, you can buy it with built-in thermal fuse and be sure you connect ground wire to Y-axis build plate. I also use power switch with 10A fuse, it feels safer. Mains electricity is not a joke and i don't trust RAMPS board that much. :)- I use M5 threaded rods for Z-axis with DIY backlash nut design (classic 2x M5 nuts and 1x spring thing.) but M8 rods going to be a better choice, if you could afford use proper 8mm ACME rods for it. It improves the quality noticeably.- I use KH42KM2B009 model NEMA17 motors with built-in vib. dampers on them and they work OK. No skipping steps @ 60mm/s.- I use LRS350-12 PSU without any problems but if you want a machine that turns itself off after printing, use modified ATX PSU. It's a nice feature to have.- I use 3mm 6061 aluminum plate for Y-axis and for the frog plate but you can't make it perfectly flat. So you have to use inductive sensor and auto bed-leveling feature for trouble-free big size prints. (Use NPN type with long detection distance - 8mm or more, like LJ18A3-8-Z/BX)- I use LM12UU type bearings with cable ties but i don't think they are good enough. For the new design im drawing, i will go for SCE...UU (also called SC...UU) type bearings with proper mounting solutions.- If you can, make connection points for them and use cable chains for wiring along Z and X axis. Spiral cable wraps are not good enough.- Also i got some ringing problem at high speeds along the Y-axis and couldn't get rid of them by changing the belt tension and acceleration & jerk settings. I think its because of the spring based Y build plate & general problem with prusa design. What do you think about this?You know what they say, "a chain is only as strong as its weakest link.". I hope I'll be back with new updates, so stay tuned. :)

    View Instructable »
  • kozbilek followed Cardboard, CNC, Apple, Electronics and 9 others channel 5 months ago