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Unlikely to work. Toner is a plastic powder that gets heat-fused to the paper. In the water-based poly method, the poly is used to "glue" the heat-fused image to the wood, and then the paper is wetted and abraded away. Inkjet uses, well, ink, which colors the fibers of the paper. These methods will likely just make the image on the paper run and smear.Try googling "inkjet to wood transfer". People have had some success with printing to freezer paper with inkjet, and then transferring that to wood. Don't know about the quality, as I don't have an inkjet printer. I can vouch for the water-based poly method for laser print transfers. It works really well.
I printed the "no-hole" version, and didn't pay attention to the fact that the pointer is facing the opposite way from the one in the Instructable pics, and it turns out to be unusable on either my Stanley tapes, or the cheap, free ones from Harbor Freight. Also, the pencil hole is small, and actually shaves off the paint and part of the "corner" wood from a standard hexagonal pencil. I'm guessing when you measured the pencil, you went from flat to flat, as that's 7mm, as is the hole on my printed version, but measuring corner to corner adds about half a mm...
This is neat, and I'm in process of printing one out right now. That being said, one criticism: The first link in your Instructable (the one which goes to the design on TinkerCAD.com, has all 3 designs PLUS the lettering in one. It would be more helpful if you had one file for each design, with no lettering (since I doubt anyone wants to 3D print the labels). Once I loaded the file into my slicer, and ungrouped it, I found that I had to delete each one of those letters individually! What a PITA. And since I wanted the print the one w/o the hole, I couldn't just use the .STL file link in the Instructable.
I could have, but didn't think about it ahead of time, and ended up doing in the slicer, because the model was already loaded. And it wouldn't have been a big deal, except for having to deal with each letter as an individual element. My comment was more a warning for others to not do it the way I did it.
Also, forgot to say that this Instructable is an excellent TinkerCAD tutorial.
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Sealing the cut ends of the logs with wax was a BAD idea, and likely contributed to your long colonization time. Since the bark itself is waterproof, the cut ends are the way that additional moisture gets into the log. Also, the size of the log will affect the colonization time. A larger log will take longer to colonize, thus longer for the first flush to appear. For instance, Fungi Perfecti's recommendations are to use 4-foot oak logs, LESS THAN 8 inches in diameter: http://www.fungi.com/plug-spawn/articles/plug-spaw...Several years ago, I plugged some 5 inch diameter oak logs with shitake, and they started fruiting in less than a year.Also,