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  • PRINTTABLE the Affordable, Attractive IKEA Lack Table Hack to create a 3D Printer

    HiBecause of the large build area I only use UK mains ac silicone heat pad for the heatbed.

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  • PRINTTABLE the Affordable, Attractive IKEA Lack Table Hack to create a 3D Printer

    HiX Axis Stls are A and B for LH side only (LH side defined as looking from the front with z motor mount centre rear) You will need to mirror these 2 parts A and B to generate the RH parts.You will end up with 4 parts 2 x A and 2 x B with one of the A and B being a mirror of the other hence LH and RH.Hope this helps.

    I am but with work commitments it is hard to pin point a date. The Update video shows parts assembled and wiring for the heated build plate and the Update first steps shows the frame assembly. Watching through the existing videos will make it easy to identify the changes and what needs to be done.

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  • PRINTTABLE the Affordable, Attractive IKEA Lack Table Hack to create a 3D Printer

    HiLJ12A3-4-Z/BX NPN INDUCTIVE 4MM SENSE DISTANCE I have a BL Touch I ordered some time ago and will be fitting this soon.I will post how I got on when it is in and configured.

    HiDid you purchase the s series stl pack?

    HiI found the tolerance to be better and a smoother operation.

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  • PRINTTABLE the Affordable, Attractive IKEA Lack Table Hack to create a 3D Printer

    Hi AllSTLs for the updated S-Series are now available on our website.ThanksWayne

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  • PRINTTABLE the Affordable, Attractive IKEA Lack Table Hack to create a 3D Printer

    http://www.instructables.com/id/PRINTTABLE-the-Affordable-Attractive-IKEA-Lack-Tab/step5/Templates/

    Hi AllI have uploaded the first (never published) Printtable Concept to Thingiverse as a sketchup file the link is belowhttp://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1872248Over the last 4 months some builders have asked for Bowden set ups or alternative z set ups using nema 17. This CAD will assist builders further who wish to start adapting the design.EnjoyThanksWayne

    HiSorry for the delay.here is the S3D FFF file. it as auto levelling and prime line in the start up gcode. I always try to get my z probe manually adjusted to the 0 position to avoid having to set in firmware.Hope this helps

    Sorry I mis-understoodI suggest the actual holes should be specific to the bolts you use.You can print the templates on A4 paper and measure they are to scale.Hope this helps

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  • PRINTTABLE the Affordable, Attractive IKEA Lack Table Hack to create a 3D Printer

    Fantastic.Great to see the Printtable made.I believe the project helps to understand 3d printing in a simple way. What's your thoughts could you please share your build experience to help others.Thanks for your support.

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  • PRINTTABLE the Affordable, Attractive IKEA Lack Table Hack to create a 3D Printer

    Hi MarcSorry to hear about the issue.please send a message and some photos of the updated parts in question to wayne@printtable.comthanks

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  • PRINTTABLE the Affordable, Attractive IKEA Lack Table Hack to create a 3D Printer

    HiIt could be possible to upgrade the Y axis to 12mm rods and have this on the longer span eg:90

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  • PRINTTABLE the Affordable, Attractive IKEA Lack Table Hack to create a 3D Printer

    HiPlease publish it under the name Printtable OP. I want the community to hack and redesign as many of the parts of the Printtable as possible and make then openly available.If we stick with the naming convention of Printtable OP we can then move forward to distinguish official Printtable variations and community based variations. with the OP meaning Open source.Everyone please feel free to publish files anywhere they desire under the Printtable OP name.Many ThanksWayne

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  • PRINTTABLE the Affordable, Attractive IKEA Lack Table Hack to create a 3D Printer

    Great you got it sorted.I never tried a different slicer I continued to use simplify 3d. What was the other slicer you used?Have you got an updated image of the part with the other slicer?I did read a on a forum somewhere to try a quirky layer height in simplify like 0.29 instead 0.3 to see if it fixed my problem but alas it did not and my lead screw did have a bend in it.

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  • PRINTTABLE the Affordable, Attractive IKEA Lack Table Hack to create a 3D Printer

    Hi DannyWe are working on the bigger table next.

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  • PRINTTABLE the Affordable, Attractive IKEA Lack Table Hack to create a 3D Printer

    HiThanks for the positive feedback and support the new modifications will make it easier for newbies to build a Printtable. I am in the final stages of making them available.MKS Base 1.4 is a ramps board using marlin MKS SBase is a Smoothieware board which in my opinion is easier to use due to the one config file which is read and loaded at power up.Please post pic when newbies are building the Printtable.Many ThanksWayne

    Hi fotoshark1Your poly set is scheduled to be dispatched MondayWe have had a backlog of orders to deal with and apologise for the delay

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  • PRINTTABLE the Affordable, Attractive IKEA Lack Table Hack to create a 3D Printer

    HiI had a similar issue on a build and I pin pointed the problem was in 2 areas.1) flexible z coupler not rotating centrally2) bend in lead screwAlso check your lead screw nut, Z motor and lead screw are all mounted centrally to the z rods, turn the lead screw by hand to feel for points in the rotation which feel stiff, undo the z motor mount and move it to different positions whilst rotating the lead screw to see if an optimum position is found to aid a smoother rotation.basically if the lines appear every 1 mm and your lead screw as a 2mm pitch then for every half rotation your z height is shifting and then returning causing a line.when all the above have been done and verified adjust the z acceleration in the config file from 500 to around 200 this aids in smoothing the current jerk ...see more »HiI had a similar issue on a build and I pin pointed the problem was in 2 areas.1) flexible z coupler not rotating centrally2) bend in lead screwAlso check your lead screw nut, Z motor and lead screw are all mounted centrally to the z rods, turn the lead screw by hand to feel for points in the rotation which feel stiff, undo the z motor mount and move it to different positions whilst rotating the lead screw to see if an optimum position is found to aid a smoother rotation.basically if the lines appear every 1 mm and your lead screw as a 2mm pitch then for every half rotation your z height is shifting and then returning causing a line.when all the above have been done and verified adjust the z acceleration in the config file from 500 to around 200 this aids in smoothing the current jerk created when the motor is turns to the next layer height..

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  • PRINTTABLE the Affordable, Attractive IKEA Lack Table Hack to create a 3D Printer

    HiYour build looks great.How hard did you find it?Below is attached a config file for 32 micro stepping so either halve the values for the motors in your config or set the board to 32 an use these values.Remember to select the optimum layer height due to the 1.5 pitch on the leadscrew. This link will help http://prusaprinters.org/calculator/

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  • PRINTTABLE the Affordable, Attractive IKEA Lack Table Hack to create a 3D Printer

    HiThe upgrades should be available with-in the next couple of weeks, but bear in mind with upgraded features there is costs, I am sure builders will find the features really open the capabilities of the Printtable such as the Aluminium Build plate,(we are successfully printing without Glass, Tape, Glue or Hairspray). Mains Mosfet, (with isolation from the controller board so no worry if things go wrong and no need to upgrade the 12v supply) 300mm x 300m mains power Silicone heat pad, (with built in thermistor and in test heat bed is getting to 100c in under 4mins) Inductive Z Probe, (enabling auto bed trimming/Levelling whilst printing) Igus bearings, (this give super quiet operation and smooth operation) Cam dowels and locks. (making the Printtable the Easiest and fastest large for...see more »HiThe upgrades should be available with-in the next couple of weeks, but bear in mind with upgraded features there is costs, I am sure builders will find the features really open the capabilities of the Printtable such as the Aluminium Build plate,(we are successfully printing without Glass, Tape, Glue or Hairspray). Mains Mosfet, (with isolation from the controller board so no worry if things go wrong and no need to upgrade the 12v supply) 300mm x 300m mains power Silicone heat pad, (with built in thermistor and in test heat bed is getting to 100c in under 4mins) Inductive Z Probe, (enabling auto bed trimming/Levelling whilst printing) Igus bearings, (this give super quiet operation and smooth operation) Cam dowels and locks. (making the Printtable the Easiest and fastest large format 3d printers to build). If you want to build on a budget stick with the currently published version and add the upgrades gradually.

    Hi I will try to help, what steps are you running? Is the board jumper set to 16 or 32 micro stepping? Are your motors 1.8 degree or 0.9 Degree? Did you use GT2 belts? Did you use all the same size tooth pulleys as in the build instructions?Please upload a pic of the machine and an image of your config file.ThanksWayne

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  • PRINTTABLE the Affordable, Attractive IKEA Lack Table Hack to create a 3D Printer

    HiThanks for your appreciation and support.Working on the enclosure next but want to keep the machine looking clean.Any suggestions?

    HiWe are seeking to partner with a distributor in the USA to assist in shipping costs in the near future.The mks tf28 is just a trim (to make it look better) other wise the screen is just hot glued onto the polycarbonate.The new update however (to be released shortly) is a complete screen mount solution which ensures the color coding of the printed parts is replicated on the front of the printtable.In the update I will be looking at checking/cutting stls into smaller files (individual parts) and they will be available on the printtable website to make it easier for builders with small build platforms.Many ThanksWayne

    I can try to assist.Do you already own a 3d printer?Wayne

    Hi MartinFor the lead screw in the instructables I use a M10 acme screw which is a 10mm threaded rod which as a 1.5mm pitch. I also have another printtable using a lead screw 10mm diameter with a 2mm pitch. My latest printtable has a bunch of updates which will be added shortly uses a 8mm lead screw with a 8mm pitch. All work great but my opinion is the 8mm works best as it travels faster as is smoother in operation also to mount it with the nut provided I simply drilled out a sc8uu (removing the bearing before hand) and changed the position of the z motor mount to match. (the update will explain this) this answers your acetal question as this is no longer required but with this solution you will also need the zprobe upgrade as we no longer use the limit switch mounted to the y motor ho...see more »Hi MartinFor the lead screw in the instructables I use a M10 acme screw which is a 10mm threaded rod which as a 1.5mm pitch. I also have another printtable using a lead screw 10mm diameter with a 2mm pitch. My latest printtable has a bunch of updates which will be added shortly uses a 8mm lead screw with a 8mm pitch. All work great but my opinion is the 8mm works best as it travels faster as is smoother in operation also to mount it with the nut provided I simply drilled out a sc8uu (removing the bearing before hand) and changed the position of the z motor mount to match. (the update will explain this) this answers your acetal question as this is no longer required but with this solution you will also need the zprobe upgrade as we no longer use the limit switch mounted to the y motor housing.There are 2 types of bearing used 1 type for the pulleys on the drive belts F62322 held with a m3 bolt, Hence the 3mm inner hole and the other type for the y motor drive rod with a 8mm inner hole 688ZZHope this helps ThanksWayne

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  • PRINTTABLE the Affordable, Attractive IKEA Lack Table Hack to create a 3D Printer

    HiBecause of the large build area I will use a mains 230 volt silicone heatpad 200mm x 300mm directly bonded to the underneath of 5mm aluminium build platform with one of these http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/linker-mosfet-solid-stat...Combined with the mks thermistor socket and a spare breakout pin configured in the config file. I successfully have this setup already running in a previous machine I built and plan to add the same to the printtable along with upgrade instructions for those that want to add it. I almost forgot this upgrade also includes an inductive z probe for auto bed levelling/tramming seeing as I will be using an aluminium build platform.

    HiSpecs are available on the links above

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  • PRINTTABLE the Affordable, Attractive IKEA Lack Table Hack to create a 3D Printer

    HiThe screws for the bottom legs need to be cut down to around 25mm and then fust screw in as normal lack table assembly.

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  • PRINTTABLE the Affordable, Attractive IKEA Lack Table Hack to create a 3D Printer

    Hi RHR support stl uploaded which can also be flipped in your slicer setting to actually do any of the corners if the correct flips are selected in your slicer program.

    Hi Both sets seem to work fine I have been shipping sets of igus bearing (FOC) with the new Extruder multi mount and printhead for customers purchasing the printed parts from printtable.com.

    Hi RHR support stl uploaded which can also be flipped in your slicer setting to actually do any of the corners if the correct flips are selected in your slicer program.

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  • PRINTTABLE the Affordable, Attractive IKEA Lack Table Hack to create a 3D Printer

    I am currently working on a heated bed and auto level upgrade and will update when testing is complete.thanks for your support.

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  • PRINTTABLE the Affordable, Attractive IKEA Lack Table Hack to create a 3D Printer

    HiYou would need to list all the parts for me to know if you missed anything.How much are all the parts when you remove the shipping costs?Some parts are cheaper if you buy a quantity remember you could always sell the surplus to others to help reduce the costs further.The printed parts stl are provided free of charge as is the time energy and effort for tutorials to enable a PRINTTABLE build.You can visit PRINTTABLE.com where over the next few weeks all our stock will arrive and become listed but shipping outside the uk can become expensive. You can support the project by making a donation on one of the links provided in the website this will assist the PRINTTABLE team in continued development and providing free content and updates.Many thanksWayne

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