Tell us about yourself!
Oh my god thank you so much, ever since I saw the acoustic levitation video on Youtube I always thought it was possibly a hoax.
Search on amazon for "imax b6ac" that is the charger i have, but there is a cheaper clone under the brand "hobbymate imax b6" that I'm sure works just as great, because it looks like it has just as good ratings. There are probably zillions of clones of that charger out there, and they probably all work fine and have the same functionality.
DIY Cyclone Dust Collector
you would need longer linear-bearing rods and a longer lead-screw on the stepper motors, on both x and y axis. use drawer-slides for bearings, and threaded rod for lead-screw.but then you need bigger motors too...
Parametric Chainmail in Fusion 360
Get the Most Out of Your Entry Level Telescope
You could also make it the way he shows and then just leave it out in the sun for a day or two. That should be enough to lower the concentration of water.
GO TO YOUTUBE. TYPE IN GEEK GROUP TESLA COILS. WATCH ALL VIDEOS. ALL OF THEM. ALL OF THE GEEK GROUP TESLA COIL VIDEOS. WATCH THEM.
Yes, I will back you up on that. Everyone listen to denbird... Dissolving NaOH in water is an exothermic process, meaning it releases heat. So always carefully add the lye to water, not the other way around.
Stained Glass Door
Thank you for the schematic. So when you tune your primary with only one cap, are you running the coil with only one capacitor (so current would not flow through the other mosfet)?
Are you saying to change that capacitor to a value which would make the primary a resonant circuit at the same frequency as the secondary? Do you have pics of your driver setup?
Table Saw Class
A drsst has a resonant primary LC circuit (self-oscillating) tuned to the same resonant frequency as the secondary circuit. All drsstcs and sstcs have a feedback loop that triggers the actuall switching. The regular sstc differs by not having a resonant tuned LC circuit as the primary. It is simply driven at the same frequency as the secondary, and you do not need to tune an LC circuit.
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If I wanted to add a second laser and photo resistor for a separate relay to be triggered, (like someone walks past point A and light-A turns on, then they walk past point B and light-B turns on) where within the void-loop does the other if-statement (and timing) need to be? (so that it's waiting for either to be triggered at anytime, not so it's waiting for the first one, then the second one after)
Although anhydrous magnesium sulfate would be a good drying agent as well... but its just too easy to buy some anhydrous calcium chloride.
Im so sorry, you are totally correct!
There is no air in this style of torch, the fuel and oxidizer are being created at the exact ratio thats required for combustion. For every 2 molecules of H2O being electrolyzed, there are created exactly two molecules of H2 (hydrogen gas) and one molecule of O2 (oxygen gas). A perfect ratio of combustion reactants will burn the hottest and most effecient with a blue flame, unless... your reactants are contaminated with water and sodium.
If you guys don't want orange flames, you need some sort of dessicant/filter to be in series with the gas hose. You need to remove the moisture from the gas, because that's the only way the sodium is being carried into the flame (it's dissolved in the microscopic water droplets that you can't see). A filter of calcium chloride (CaCl2) would be most effective, (but any common drying-agents should work), even activated charcoal may work. Just make sure it's not powdered, and that it's somewhat granulated; and if buying online, try to find products labeled "ANHYDROUS"; that is important if you want your drying agents to work like they should. Like sodium sulfate, which is a good drying agent normally, won't work if your using regular epsom salts, because epsom salt is hydrated so...
If you guys don't want orange flames, you need some sort of dessicant/filter to be in series with the gas hose. You need to remove the moisture from the gas, because that's the only way the sodium is being carried into the flame (it's dissolved in the microscopic water droplets that you can't see). A filter of calcium chloride (CaCl2) would be most effective, (but any common drying-agents should work), even activated charcoal may work. Just make sure it's not powdered, and that it's somewhat granulated; and if buying online, try to find products labeled "ANHYDROUS"; that is important if you want your drying agents to work like they should. Like sodium sulfate, which is a good drying agent normally, won't work if your using regular epsom salts, because epsom salt is hydrated sodium sulfate. Also I kinda just realized you can just avoid the orange flame entirely by not putting any sodium containing electrolytes in the solution. Just use potassium ones... like, go find some potassium carbonate, and call it a day.
I think it would work. Theres one thing that I think would be important in order for it to work ; you would need do dehydrate the rust. Just let it dry out in the sun, then pulverize it, then heat it up for a while on a stove (to vaporise the remaining water molecules). In fact i may try this myself, since you just made me realize that electrolysis could be a pretty good source of iron oxide for use in thermite...
I think you have a typo there, its Fe2O3.
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