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You've done some terrific things here. Here's an idea that's more of a 'next time' project, because it looks as if it would be tricky in your kitchen. Anyway, every kitchen counter offers a large area of salvageable space--underneath. That's where counters and cabinets sit on an item called the toe kick: the platform on which cabinets etc sit is about 5" high; it's recessed about 5" also so there's room for your toes when you stand at the counter. The pedestal can be built or rebuilt to support the counter and still have (depending on cabinet size) one or two shallows drawers installed. These drawers can be simple ones that simply slide on the floor if you bottom them with teflon. What can you put in a 5" drawer? Pie plates, pizza platters, lasagna bakers--all sorts of s...see more »You've done some terrific things here. Here's an idea that's more of a 'next time' project, because it looks as if it would be tricky in your kitchen. Anyway, every kitchen counter offers a large area of salvageable space--underneath. That's where counters and cabinets sit on an item called the toe kick: the platform on which cabinets etc sit is about 5" high; it's recessed about 5" also so there's room for your toes when you stand at the counter. The pedestal can be built or rebuilt to support the counter and still have (depending on cabinet size) one or two shallows drawers installed. These drawers can be simple ones that simply slide on the floor if you bottom them with teflon. What can you put in a 5" drawer? Pie plates, pizza platters, lasagna bakers--all sorts of stuff that you don't use very often but still need from time to time. This would be especially easy to do with IKEA-type cabinets, which sit on short legs and are fronted with a 'kick plate' that fastens to the legs with spring clips. I had actually planned to do this for our own IKEA kitchen renovation, bu then IKEA-Brooklyn screwed up our order so badly that we just cancelled the whole thing.
Lovely piece of work! But I don't have a shop full of scraps I wonder whether oak would be acceptable? Here in Manhattan there are pallets by the long ton and many have oak stringers.
Thanks for the warning. I hadn't thought of that since so many of the pallets lately look so clean and new.
Old-time tools often had different names, depending on who used them. I've often seen this mallets w/slanted faces called a wheelwright's mallet. The slanted faces were a convenience in knocking together the FELLOES -- sections of a wheel's outer rim. The carpenter's mallet I won at a yard sale years has the slide-out handle (to fit into a tool-box) but the usual cylindrical head. I can see this instructable with cause recycling of many a shipping pallet.
Well at least WD-40 cans don't explode any more, as they did back in the '90s.
Bare wood sucks moisture out of glue. The 50-50 prep applcation seals the wood.
Peel-off adhesives stick better if the area is wiped w/alcohol first and both area and stuckum are warmed w/hair dryer or even a wet washcloth (esp when applied to smooth surfaces). That said, the hooks I've bought from dollar stores usually fall off within a few months, and I've given up on them. If I WERE to use them for lids, esp glass ones, I'd drill a hole in each and secure with a tiny wood screw--1/2 inch max. OR: use cup hooks. I'd also put the heaviest lids closer to the hinges--the doors on most cabinets are just laminate-covered slabs of glued wood chips, very susceptible to weight pulling down on the hinges. Those are glass lids--heavy--not light metal.
Nice piece of work, but I just use a plastic soda straw. I close the bag 99% with the straw inserted in the opening, preferably in the middle of the closure. That lets me press both sides of the bag for a close fit against the straw. I usually press down on the bag to expel most of the air, then suck out the rest, pulling out the straw and sealing the rest of the closure simultaneously. It's a little tricky (esp. getting 'traction' with which to extract the straw), but a little practice yields excellent results. As for cost of materials (straws are free for the asking at any deli) and ease of storage, the benefits are obvious.
How well does this work with glass bottles?
Before gluing pieces of bare wood, paint surfaces with 50-50 mix of glue and water. Let dry, then glue as usual. Makes a stronger bond.
There is a commercially available bottle cutter--dating from the early days of Whole Earth Catalog and easily home-built once seen--that is based on Step 2 (rotate glass cutter around bottle). It will work on square bottles, though it's a bit tricky. The great thing about this cutter (which you can find with a little Googling, or at craft stores) is that it breaks the bottle apart by gentle tapping from the inside, using a long metal rod with bent end for tapping.No matter what system you use, you have to smooth the cut edge for safety. Use fairly coarse emery cloth, rolled into a cylinder, and 'file' inside and outside edges at about same angle as when using your nail file.
My favorite was a game called Galaxy. It became my favorite when, during hard times in the mid-80s, the one at my local theater broke down and had a sign hanging on it that said "Galaxy Is Out of Order." 'Nuff said!
Thanks, smurray! Re baby oil: I don't worry about it myself; it's just mineral oil, which is edible (occasionally used as a laxative) w/a little fragrance added.
Will this work on stainless knives? I've noticed that over time a kind of cloud appears on my knives--even the top-quality ones--and it's hard to get rid of. I've used Barkeeper's Friend but it's some kind of wicked acid and nearly impossible to rinse clean. FYI, the could appear exclusively on brushed stainless, not on mirror-finished knives.
In my experience the use of the steel is extremely important. If you use it each time you use the knifde you can go a long time between actual sharpenings.
Re toothpaste--are you specific abiut the whitening kind? Either way, gel or actual toot PASTE?
Good work. The only brand I know for this stuff is FrostKing. I've used it to thicken the shaft of my kayak paddle. By the way, m ake another one but line the inside with tape and don't close the thing. That way you'll have a nice slip-on handle for heavy grocery bags.
Nice work! How long before the branch was properly seasoned (dried)? Did you dry it bark-on or bark-off? Let me (us) know and I'll be looking for windfall branches in the park after the next storm.
I did this a couple of times, and it was a lot of work, effective only because it eliminated breakage. I suspect that pfred2's breaker will be the answer to many prayers.
Been dong thtaa for years now, often with success equal to professional vacs. But I always put the straw in the middle of the bag: I find it easier to get a close fit around the straw that way--the end of the bag doesn't work so well for me. Also, I evacuate most of the air by pressing the bag with my hands, then suck out the last little bit.
Can you adapt this to use one of the mini transformers that come with every piece of personal electronics these days? Highest output I've seen is 9v, maybe not enough. But using one of these things would be great--there are zillions of them all over the planet. I've seen them in the trash; at thrift stores for 50 cents, and have at least a dozen at home.
Altenatively, is there a way to make a cutter that's powered from ordinary house current, moderated by a transformer?
Please explain the physics involved. I've used lots of dead-blow hammers and ALL have been filled with shot, which absorbed--deadened--the dread bounce-back.
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