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are you starting with a cold pan, with no oil?
sorry, i just realised there was a video that showed that, missed that the first time round.
a useful idea. I'm a bit confused, surely the non amped speakers should be of an equal or higher wattage to the amp (amped speakers) as otherwise they could blow from the amp overpowering them.also I'd use heat shrink rather than tape, cleaner and easier
these look very cool. I was thinking of making some and I assume they are going to get left outside in sun and rain. but I'm not sure how hardwearing the paint would be, maybe a top coat or two of clear varnish would weatherproof them a bit? just out of interest why a sit of six, I'm sure I'm missing something ? Also a quick way of finding the right number for a dice face, the opposing sides add up to 7.
this looks very proffesional, personally if I was going to put in this much work I'd like to see an end result that was a bit more unique, but I can't fault the quality of the result
just a thought on making it easier to empty / clean (haven't read all the comments so I'm not sure if someone else has said similar) if you have two bottles, cut the bottom of the first one, screw on lid, mount upside down, use the top section of the second bottle as the funnel as per the instructable. to empty just open the lid / sump cap and pour down the drain.
I suprised that the upvc pipe wasn't available in black to start with, saving a bit of paint
I can definately see that your method is going to give a better, cleaner machine, and at the end of the day dust and dirt is the real problem. I've just have found with any number of machines over the years that in taking it apart there is a risk of making things worse (lost small parts or brittle plastic clips won't come back together and the case is flapping open etc etc). My personal approach is to try the small fixes first before I risk the bigger overhaul. In all honesty I have to admit that when I was fixing my drive I could see more dust and dirt inside that I couldn't get to so I wouldn't rule out having to clean it up again before too long.
this would be a perfect technique for repurposing an existing table into a wall mounted drop leaf. Would be a great space saver in a small room. I'd be tempted to put some kind of latch or catch on the leg so it didn't get closed by accident.
Those look swish, though with so much effort going into the shells of the speakers, it would be nice to see the padded strap be replaced / covered with some soft leather and the cord being sleeved (like so many paracord instructables), that would finish it off nicely.
sorry, I've just seen that there is some sleeving on the cord already.
I agree with this instructable that dust is real issue, but I don't personally like the idea of pulling apart the machine if I can help it. I followed this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qWXBDGPL8GE , cleaning up the two cogs and belt with surgical spirit and now my xbox 360 ejects fine. The only thing I did differenty to them was to use some reusable cable ties 1. to go through the centre of the tray and stop it accidently shutting (that would be very annoying) and 2. to go through the centre of the belt and stop it pinging off into the drive and never coming back. Fair warning this is a bit of a fiddle, but it worked for me. Maybe the youtube vid is a step one, and if that doesn't fix it then step two would be to disassemble and clean as per this instructable?
This works BUT these techniques are of limited use as they don't solve the problem, only get in once. I followed this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qWXBDGPL8GE , cleaning up the two cogs and belt with surgical spirit and now my xbox 360 ejects fine. The only thing I did differenty to them was to use some reusable cable ties 1. to go through the centre of the tray and stop it accidently shutting (that would be very annoying) and 2. to go through the centre of the belt and stop it pinging off into the drive and never coming back. Fair warning this is a real fiddle, but it works.
I prefer to use a lockable chain link ( like this https://www.s3i.co.uk/image/s3i/standard-quick-link-main.jpg ) rather than these clips or carabiners, not as easy to undo quickly but also far less likely to come undone accidently in the pocket (which I found happens more than i every expected). Also if you are worried about the visability of the knife why not make a strap of bright paracord?
you were so lucky to find the cabinet ready made, saving a lot of time and money on the build. Pity it didn't have some nice retro artwork on it, but then i supposed it wouldn't have been dumped.
A nice design on the mechanism. A second hand grip would be nice to see. It looks a bit unweildy
I see the problem, maybe something that slide's freely and then holds with a firm grip from the hand. Probably over complicating the build though.
A fun design, though I think it prefer it used as a stool, with the possible addidtion of upholstery on the top layer. I'd also prefer to have some sections of metal pipe on the dowel to protect it from rubbing in the cable. It could be a nice way of using up all the springs that are left over from a discarded trampoline.
"heat it for 15-20min using Electric Iron" is that a misprint or is actually that long? Genuine question, it seems a long time.
thanks for your response, I don't think I can get hold of this stronger vinegar, I might try concentrating white vinegar by simmering it off as you suggest, though I'll have to do it outside, the fumes from heating vinegar are horrible. Does anyone know how I can test the strength? I'm assuming if I boil down 1 litre of 5% vinegar to 500ml it'll be 10% strength?
I was looking for your transistor tester and couldn't see it. could you reply with a link please?
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Hope you get a chance to read this, 3 years on from your posting. How did it hold up over time? It must take a lot of punishment being inflated, deflated and moved so much. Do you know the type and brand of the paint? I'm thinking I could use it to paint cables, which would crack with most paints.
Good idea.At the stage that the blades are spaced apart, clamped together and glued, why not put two holes through and bolt together . It would be stronger than glue alone I'd have thought. I can imagine that from time to time the bolt would get in the way, in which case you could just take them out (it would all still be glued so you're no worse off). Also those bolts could be used to attach a handle. If the bolts don't fit the use, then a second suggestion would be to glue a piece of wood with the same width as the saw on the opposite side to the teeth, this would add strength and could be used as a handle
As far as I can see zip ties wouldn't work as these joins not only pull together but also push apart, whereas zip ties would only pull together, there would be nothing keeping the edges from overlapping.
This would be great in some kind of UV resistant sheet plastic, then it would be usable outside or in and make a great play space for kids. You could even have transparent sections for windows. Have you thought about producing a run of flatpack kits for sale?
This looks great, certainly quicker cheaper and easier than a similar build with metal pipework.I'm suprised that it is as solid as you say, I'd have assumed that the slight flexability of the pipe would make it wobbly. You know what they say about assumption. It would look neater if the corners of the board were rounded to match the round pipe.Also (after the dry build and sure everything fits) wouldn't it by easier to prep and paint with the pipe in bits? I'd be worried about ruining the paintwork around the joints by breaking them apart then reassembling.
A nice project, crisp minimal design. I haven't costed it up but it looks like it would cost a fair bit in wood. I wonder if it would work with pallet wood?One improvement I could suggest is when you are cutting the threaded bar if you put a nut on first then make your cut, the nut tidies up the cut edge when it comes off. This will save a lot of time struggles to get a nut on afterwards and having to file the ends.Someone else commented that the constant vibration might mean you have to tighten the nuts quite often, maybe the use of self tightening (nylon lined) nuts would negate this to some extent
so, are you knitting a hollow tube? could this be used to sleeve a cable, and if so would you need to knit it with the cable in place or would it go through afterwards?
that looks great, what would the result be if you scaled up or down?for instance would a 1metre by 1metre boomerang fly? Also, instead of carving out the centre, could you just use two thicknesses of wood (leaving a single piece in the centre), it would be easier that way to get a perfect thichness.
thanks for the responce, I'm going off the idea now though, I'm thinking that where there are tabs (being double thickness) it would look a bit odd when lit from the inside. Maybe it would look better as a mobile if I can get the balance right.
at a push you can tamp with one person by using a piece of wood slightly longer than the distance between the sides, then cutting out the bottom corners (effectively making a capital T with a very, very wide vertical) so that when you wiggle the tamper it is held in place. So long as you don't let the tamper slip diagonally it works well and keeps a uniform, level top. also you can hold the planks for the sides in place with ratchet straps for easy release.
I can see that you've mastered your technique. But what is the benifit over just creating a crate of pallets and wrapping that, it seems like it would be much easier. Also could you improve ventalation by trapping short lengths of hose or drainpipe between the layers of wrap?
love the look of this table, clean and classic. how solid does it feel? I'm confused by your costing, I just looked on the wickes website and found an 8 ft x 4 ft 18mm ply for £30, how did it end up at £60?
I have a pi zero but lichee is new to me, how do they compare?
thanks for your reply, sounds like the rpi zero is a bit better for most uses, though I can see the lcd connection makes the lichee best for this use
A great project, It would be good to have some of the mini totoros around too. It looks like the cardboard frame has melted a bit with the weight and the moisture. Maybe a way around this would be to make the basic structure out of layers (or even bricks) of foam insulating board. Foam tends to melt when exposed to various chemicals so maybe a test here would be good. Also it might be an idea to weigh down the bottom with a bucket of concrete (probably left in the bucket) in the lower layers of the foam.
I don't know if anyone will read this as it was posted 5 years ago but I think you could get around the problem of the nose (which is the only thing that spoils the finish of an otherwise perfect costume) by having the wearer look through the mouth instead. You could make the mouth open in a laugh, having black mesh at the back of the mouth to see through. The basic design is excellent, and could easily become a russian doll, dalek or pikachu.
When you pour concrete in a mold you have to lubricate the mold first with oil, vascaline, silicon spray etc. Do you need to lubricate the mold or does it come out without issue?
this looks good, but I don't see the benefit of using shiplap for the top, surely just having the boards side by side would be just as strong and quicker and easier to build. For added strength you could glue a central rail underneath the top wood to spread the weight
I'd suggest a bit of heat shrink tubing to sleeve the finished product, neater and longer lasting than tape. Also, you'd need to make sure that your broken cable wasn't damaged along it's length or at the male usb end that is kept, otherwise the whole thing would be unreliable if it works at all.
I agree with the others here, an electric carving knife is excellent.
I think it would be easier and quicker, though a less impressive finish, to simply pleat and staple the fabric, rather than sewing on the skirt. What is the maximum weight that you think your buckets can hold?
I'd be worried about putting a hole in the side, surely it would weaken it
These look great, love bit of ghibli. Do you think I could use an led on the inside to make a lamp?
I've never come across concentrated vinegar 'essence' is that a catering strength thing? Do you know what percentage an off the shelf white vinegar would be? I'm hoping i can use this technique with kitchen white vinegar?
does anyone in the uk have a good alternative to american cheese?
I love the simplicity of the diagonal divider, it is so obvious and yet nobody does it. I'm forever finding a tool is too long, or screw bits are rattling around, this should get around that problem nicely, thankyou
this looks like it would rub on the back of the foot, maybe it could be improved with a bit of padding there? If it was a bit of soft tube it could roll around and not ever be the wrong way round.
I think if you added a chimney you'd want a controllable vent on it, otherwise you may well loose too much heat?
Hi, great instructable. I'm intrigued by the blue screw down clips / clamps you use in step 3, are these something you've made yourself, I've never seen them before?
this looks good, and proffesional.Does the glow inside the hood make it hard to see out?
this looks great, do you have to use any particular software for the camera?If I were building this I'd be tempted to shape the arm so that the cable was protected at all points, and also maybe connect the camera and cable with sprung pipe clips so that it could be dissasembled easily for transport or to use the camera elsewhere.I wonder if it would work on a tablet, using an otg adapter? That might be light enough to mount on the arm itself, making it all more immediate, like a digital magnifying glass.
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