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  • ortwein55 commented on makjosher's instructable Rocket Boat1 month ago
    Rocket Boat

    Hello I loved your video and design. Think about a sailboat hull with a dagger board fin, that's what you need is two these, no angle the daggers should hold it to the water. You could make this with your aluminum, make two fins one 90 degrees out, one 90 degrees in towards the boat, use a riveting tools to put them together, now repeat that on Starboard side. Now you will be playing with how wide is my total dagger going to be, much easier than playing with angles. Make one say total approx 2" dagger under the keel. Try it. Go up down from there. Good luck great design, you just have to fine tune it.Cheers

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  • ortwein55 followed ErlingP11 month ago
  • ortwein55 commented on AUGUSTO VJ's instructable EMERGENCY PHONE CHARGING HACK1 month ago
    EMERGENCY PHONE CHARGING HACK

    Great idea for a 5 day power out, try two 9Volt in series with your car charger so 18volts to 5vdc, should get your phone 50% charged, then do it again with two fresh 9volt batteries, to get it close to 75-100% charged. My two cents of advice.cheersCanada

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  • Automated all grain electric beer brewery for 100 €/USD

    What voltage are you using for your design? 110v or 220vac?

    Ok, a lot easier than a 120volt system.For your 230vac you can use 5vdc Relays 10+ amps each, HighTrigger relays, (important because low trigger will not work) with the code.Now your 2.2kw heater will work at 230vac. I would try to find another one at 2.2kw. Or buy two of Rubens heaters @1500watts each. I just found two for $3.00 included shipping I will find link and shorten it next.If you have multiple recipes, I suggest buying several Wemos mini pro's at $7 each one for each recipe. Or the cheaper mini's are $3-4 each.I will also give you a link for the 30A High Level trigger relays I use(for both 120-240vac). Will be back with links.Cheers

    To get all the parts super cheap, you have to wait, buy local your project will go up 3-4 times, relays here sell for $41 each, I buy them for $2.28 each, I am willing to wait. Just order them.If you plan on still using your 2.2kwatt heater, you have to do the math, 2200watt/230vac = 9.565 amps, so I would not be ordering a 10 A relay, Here is the same link for the relay, with NO worries 30A relay's.5vdc to 250vac(rated) @ 30A Here is link, goo.gl/e7OimfJust order two if you are not sure, 2200 watts for 50-60 litres sound small to me, unless you got all day for it to heat up, with 5 guys standing around bitching.Name is Alan, and my email is: dcsce@icloud.com I can help you through this if Ruben does not have the time.1) you have to size your system, with operating voltage, and heater s...see more »To get all the parts super cheap, you have to wait, buy local your project will go up 3-4 times, relays here sell for $41 each, I buy them for $2.28 each, I am willing to wait. Just order them.If you plan on still using your 2.2kwatt heater, you have to do the math, 2200watt/230vac = 9.565 amps, so I would not be ordering a 10 A relay, Here is the same link for the relay, with NO worries 30A relay's.5vdc to 250vac(rated) @ 30A Here is link, goo.gl/e7OimfJust order two if you are not sure, 2200 watts for 50-60 litres sound small to me, unless you got all day for it to heat up, with 5 guys standing around bitching.Name is Alan, and my email is: dcsce@icloud.com I can help you through this if Ruben does not have the time.1) you have to size your system, with operating voltage, and heater sizes first, then you start ordering parts. If you have 5 guys going in on thisI suggest each one of you buy your own 32 liter bucket for $25 each, and the two heaters for $3.50, and a spigot for $5.00, You can also ferment in the same bucket, if cost is a issue, just buy a lid and airlock( now you have a boiler and a fermenter, you are using all stainless heaters, so should not be a problem.2) I ordered all of my stuff from AliExpress, most items are 3-5 weeks from China to Canada. I am not sure where you are.3) Don't forget to order a box to put it in, I found Arduino UNO R3 boxes for $1.05 each they actually took the longest 6 weeks!Link for the Arduino clear project boxes Order 3, one for DC electronics, and one for Relays, and one for electrical switches(5VDC switches)$1.05 each. Link here: goo.gl/33dGld Total cost $3.15 for boxes(all the DC voltage of your project).4) you can buy locally a three gang electrical box, for your two 230vac outlets & your two relays, and have four wires coming out to your Wemos(2 power and 2 i/o).5) When you order your temperature probe, try to remember a 2 meter cord length. for the Dallas DS18B20.Here is the link for the 2 meter probe: goo.gl/FKy3hH6) If you what to make if look nicer, you can order a Thermowell for the above temperature sensor(probe). Just saves taking it in and out all the time. but not cheap around $15 for a Stainless Steel Thermowell with all the proper high temperature O ring seals, etc.Here is the link for the ThermoWell: goo.gl/nKZo8u it is $14.56 and it is 2.5" insertion depth, with correct I.D.(inner Diameter).7) you will need a USB to micro(Android style cable to program the Wemos Mini, also order that from China they are $3.8) The Dual base $ 1.09 for the Wemos Mini is here: goo.gl/mPqQSO9) The Wemos Mini Pro $6.76 link: goo.gl/xx7iNz10) The Wemos Mini button switch $1.09 : goo.gl/4hxrJS11) The Wemos Mini .66" OLED shield $ 4.85 : goo.gl/Ax6xvx12) I ordered this for my second brewery: and nice power button switch momentary with blue LED $2.01 each for brewery steps: goo.gl/qiQUQg13) I will be mounting it on a Wemos Mini Prototype board: goo.gl/ulrtNkYou can do all of your I/O soldering on this board as well to tidy the whole project up! Because of its layout!14) You will need two Four PIN connectors, out of your brewery, One for the Temp Sensor, and one for your Relays for quick disconnect. Cost is $6.42, this may take it over your budget lol, link: goo.gl/l9Koc715) Time for a beer!Cheers mateAlan

    Hello Stefant2: Here are my pics of my Mini System, this way it is all Plug N Play, almost, very little wiring left. YOU start off with a dual breakout Wemos board as seen in photos below. I am sending this to you because it sounds like you have multiple recipes, I suggest buying one wemos mini per recipe(there is a new Wemos MINI PRO out now $7), since i just saved you $27 on the heaters!. If you use the button switch, you have to modify it to Ruben's Code to activate on D6, so cut two traces and resolder as seen below on top of the button, I have two pieces of CAT5 copper wires to jump button switch to D6, and one to 3.3 VDC to give I/O a HIGH state.Cheers!

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  • Automated all grain electric beer brewery for 100 €/USD

    Hello Stefan2:Yes open Rubens code you GOTO Settings tab, here is my code for my recipe, i changed the settings a bit because i have a 15 min. Mashout Stage.//Time basic settingsint startingHour = 0; // set your starting hour here, not at int hour. This ensures accurate daily correction of timeint seconds = 0;int minutes = 0;int days = 0;//Time accuracy settingsint dailyErrorFast = 0; // set the average number of milliseconds your microcontroller's time is fast on a daily basisint dailyErrorBehind = 0; // set the average number of milliseconds your microcontroller's time is behind on a daily basisint correctedToday = 1; // do not change this variable, one means that the time has already been corrected today for the error in your boards crystal. This is true for the first day because you...see more »Hello Stefan2:Yes open Rubens code you GOTO Settings tab, here is my code for my recipe, i changed the settings a bit because i have a 15 min. Mashout Stage.//Time basic settingsint startingHour = 0; // set your starting hour here, not at int hour. This ensures accurate daily correction of timeint seconds = 0;int minutes = 0;int days = 0;//Time accuracy settingsint dailyErrorFast = 0; // set the average number of milliseconds your microcontroller's time is fast on a daily basisint dailyErrorBehind = 0; // set the average number of milliseconds your microcontroller's time is behind on a daily basisint correctedToday = 1; // do not change this variable, one means that the time has already been corrected today for the error in your boards crystal. This is true for the first day because you just set the time when you uploaded the sketc//Four Digit Display//Blynk and wifi//char auth[] = "Your Blynk Key code"; //Wemos D1 codechar auth[] = "Your Blynk authorization code goes here"; //Wemos Mini code//How many KiloWatt are your heating elements combined?int KiloWatt = 3; //Temperature and times in recipe:int strikeTemp = 69.00; // Temp in Celsius int mashTemp = 67.00; // Temp in celsiusint mashoutTemp = 76.00; // Mashout Temp in celsiusint boilTemp = 93.00; // Temp in celsius, set to max 98int chillerTemp = 24.00; // Wort Chiller Target of 24Cint strikeTime = 15; // number of minutes to Strike Temp of 69 Cint mashTime = 60; // number of minutes you are going to mashint mashoutTime = 15; // number of minutes to mash out at 76 degrees Cint boilTime = 60; // number of minutes you are going to boilint chillerTime = 30; //number of minutes to Chill the Wortint fermentTimeprimary = 23; // Number of days you are going to fermentint fermentTimeSecondary = 0; // Number of days you are going to ferment in secondary, set to zero if you do not plan on using secondary fermenting, this is often not required. int yeastPitchTemperature = 24; // The ideal pitch temperature for your yeast, in celcius.int fermentationTemperatureMin = 20; // Minimum Temp that the yeast can thrive in, in celcius. int fermentationTemperatureMax = 24; // Maximum Temp that the yeast can thrive in, in celcius. int HopTime1 = 1; // after how many minutes of boiling the wort should this hop be added? int HopTime2 = 15;int HopTime3 = 30;int HopTime4 = 45;//Liters you will makeint liters = 23; //The number of liters of boiled wort you are planning on having AFTER the boil.// Brew stages, Adjust this if you faced a power down, or reset at some point during the brew, otherwise leave at zero. int brewStage = 0; // 0 is standby, 1 is heating strike water to 67.8C or 154F, 2 is waiting for mash, 3 is mashing at 66.7C or 152F for 60 min, 4 is extracting mash and waiting for boil, 5 is heating to 168F and hold for 15 min, 6 is boil to 208F for 60 min, 7 is Wort Plate Chiller or insertion wort chiller, or Ruben's Ince method to room temp, 8 is Pitching by adding yeast, 9 is fermenting primary, 10 is fermenting secondary change this number here to skip one or several of the stagesAs you can see all the settings are fully customizable to your recipe and temperatures, our water boils here at 93 degrees C, in vancovuer, BC Canada, we are at Sealevel so H2O boils at a lower temperature.Cheers

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  • Automated all grain electric beer brewery for 100 €/USD

    Hi Ruben:I finally got my plastic boxes from AliExpress, it took 5 weeks, I ordered 3 @$1+each.Here is my Wemos D1 in a arduino Uni R3 box. It fits perfectly as you see below.I mounted the switches in their own box, and stacked them as seen below.I am using the ds1820b sensor on D7 with a 4.7kohm from 3.3vdc to D7.No more nano, four digit displays, or the DHT11, are all gone here. So I took 4 items off the shopping list.I bought a dual Wemos mini board to mount the 64x48 oled and a breakout switch for the mini. I had to cut the traces on switch and solder to D6 and 3.3vdc. All I/O is 3.3volts on the wemos.I ordered two 220v/30Amp relays with 5vdc input "High Trigger" So brewery will now work for 110v/220v systems.Now I can mount the relays on a DIN rail in the AC electrical bo...see more »Hi Ruben:I finally got my plastic boxes from AliExpress, it took 5 weeks, I ordered 3 @$1+each.Here is my Wemos D1 in a arduino Uni R3 box. It fits perfectly as you see below.I mounted the switches in their own box, and stacked them as seen below.I am using the ds1820b sensor on D7 with a 4.7kohm from 3.3vdc to D7.No more nano, four digit displays, or the DHT11, are all gone here. So I took 4 items off the shopping list.I bought a dual Wemos mini board to mount the 64x48 oled and a breakout switch for the mini. I had to cut the traces on switch and solder to D6 and 3.3vdc. All I/O is 3.3volts on the wemos.I ordered two 220v/30Amp relays with 5vdc input "High Trigger" So brewery will now work for 110v/220v systems.Now I can mount the relays on a DIN rail in the AC electrical box. I will be also orderering a din rail 110/220v to 5VDC to power supply for the relays $13.I made the temperature text size 2 to increase the temperature reading below.I will be ordering the New Wemos mini pro with 16M memory, and making this even smaller footprint.Thanks again Ruben, you inspired me follow through with This project, as the price of beer is not getting any cheaper these days, $8/pint in Canada.Ruben my email is Dcsce@icloud.com I would like to send you my editions to your code.Cheers??AlanNorth Vancouver, BC

    My new GUI for Blynk. I included a screen shot of the inputs values.

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  • Automated all grain electric beer brewery for 100 €/USD

    Hello Ruben:Ruben, I revamped your project and I got all the bugs out of it, and now the Blynk will not crash the wemos running when it gets those 4 sec. time outs!While I am running terminal with the Wemos Mini, I see all to Blynk timeouts, almost 4000 ms, or 4 sec. But no crashed the program runs GREAT!Temperature is now 100 accurate, and no time delays, because it is hooked up direct to the Wemos Mini. on D7.I loved your project, and have been running it for a month now. Everything would work fine until the Wemos D1 or my Wemos Mini would go offline. Then I would get 3 temperatures showing up, one real temp, and two fake from the Blynk time delay( when the Blynk wemos go offline approx 4 sec.)This drove me crazy, because on ramp up to Strike Temp, 67C, I would get a fake high meas...see more »Hello Ruben:Ruben, I revamped your project and I got all the bugs out of it, and now the Blynk will not crash the wemos running when it gets those 4 sec. time outs!While I am running terminal with the Wemos Mini, I see all to Blynk timeouts, almost 4000 ms, or 4 sec. But no crashed the program runs GREAT!Temperature is now 100 accurate, and no time delays, because it is hooked up direct to the Wemos Mini. on D7.I loved your project, and have been running it for a month now. Everything would work fine until the Wemos D1 or my Wemos Mini would go offline. Then I would get 3 temperatures showing up, one real temp, and two fake from the Blynk time delay( when the Blynk wemos go offline approx 4 sec.)This drove me crazy, because on ramp up to Strike Temp, 67C, I would get a fake high measurement, and it would goto the next loop, but is was not ready.So I commented out your blynk updates, and then it started working better, but still got some irregular temperatures.( after hooking up the wort temp sensors direct to the Wemos Mini on D7) and no crashed, I put the code back in for Blynk to work.So what I did is I took out Four items from your shopping list, I dropped out the Nano, and the two four digit displays, and also took out the DHT temp sensor.I hooked up the DS18B20 to D7 on the Wemos Mini. And added the library code for the Dallas Temp, DS1820B sensor, and oneWire bus.I bought a dual Wemos Mini board, and a Wemos mini Prototype board for all my solder connections, for the two relays wires out(D3,4), and three wires for the waterproof temp sensor(D7, 3.3V, GND) plus a 4.7Kohm resistor from 3.3V to D7, all on the prototype board. The switch plugs into the prototype board overtop last on the right side.Now everything is Plug and Play, I even bought a Wemos Mini button switch and cut the traces on it so it goes to D6 and 3.3 Volt.I have everything stacked plug and play, 3 layers high.I will be ordering a 1.3" OLED, so I can display everything needed, which now will have 20 characters across, and 8 deep.The Relays I ordered are rated for 30A at 220Volt, so now they are good for both voltages 120VAC or 240VAC Europe, and Canada/US, you can use same relays.I am ordering TWO 20 cm DIN rail's to mount all the equipment for the projects., 25Amp Breakers, and a DIN rail holders for the Relays, it will look real sharp in a Control Box.I also will be ordering a DIN rail Power 120/240 VAC to 5V DC in DIN configuration for all the DC power approx $10 on Aliexpress.I will be mounting all the AC on the TOP DIN, and All the DC on the bottom DIN Rail.I will be mounting Control Switches on the outside of the control Box, for Power1(for Wemos mini), Power2(for relays), RESET switch, Start/Stop switch, Heater Status Element in (Yellow), also TWO pumps- Pump1(for Wort Recirculation), and Pump2(for Chiller pump) switches, All above hardware will be 22mm diameter switches/indicators, with 5v LED(lighted switches).If you are interested in my sketch code and my Blynk(new one), please email me at: dcsce@icloud.comAlanDigital Control Systems & Consulting EngineersAlso known as OctoPussy Brewing Company!I will be adding some more images of the Stacked Wemos Mini next....PS: below is how a 240VAC system that is wired correctly to code.I plan on a second DIN rail just below for all DC Voltage stuff. ( So I will be mounting the AC DIN rail a little higher for room the the DC stuff.I also plan on buying a 1.5" Color OLED, that will go in place of the temperature controller below in the third picture below.Everything is on order, I cannot wait to show Ruben!Wait tell you see what i have in store for the boiler!!!! lmao!Cheers,Peace in the Middle East!

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  • Automated all grain electric beer brewery for 100 €/USD

    Hello.Rubin gave us a link to the wrong relays. He sent us to a low level trigger. You need to reorder a High Level Trigger relays. I had the same problem, problem was fixed with correct High Level Trigger relays. Most red color circuit boards, have a jumper switch on them for both low or High trigger.Cheers,Alan

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  • Automated all grain electric beer brewery for 100 €/USD

    Hello again:Just so you know as soon as I hit the start button, the relays Turn ON, but at 69+C they should shut off, but they never shut off. The D5 LED light goes on for Strike Water, and then off to tell the relays to turn off at approx 69C, but the relays do NOT turn OFF. I just what to confirm which relays to use before I start troubleshooting. So are they Low Level Trigger or High Level Trigger relays?, the link in your parts list is to a Low Level Trigger. Please advise Ruben.CheersAlan

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  • Automated all grain electric beer brewery for 100 €/USD

    Hello Ruben. 1) I got my parts and cannot get the relays working. My relays are low trigger. Are your relays High Trigger by any chance? If so I will have to change the code, or order new relays. No jumper to select from low/high Trigger, now I see you can order selectable relays. Please Advise?2) Please confirm also.Are hooking your relays voltage up to Common and NO (normally open) correct?So on a High from D3 or D4 the relay should close the circuit to turn on the heater.3) my email is dcsce@iCloud.com I would like to send you my code I added a brewing step from 67C to ramp up to 76C for 15 min I call it MASH OUT. Then you take the grains out.4) I have everything running fine except the relays, the D5 light goes on and off as it should when i simulate a boil,with my temperature probe...see more »Hello Ruben. 1) I got my parts and cannot get the relays working. My relays are low trigger. Are your relays High Trigger by any chance? If so I will have to change the code, or order new relays. No jumper to select from low/high Trigger, now I see you can order selectable relays. Please Advise?2) Please confirm also.Are hooking your relays voltage up to Common and NO (normally open) correct?So on a High from D3 or D4 the relay should close the circuit to turn on the heater.3) my email is dcsce@iCloud.com I would like to send you my code I added a brewing step from 67C to ramp up to 76C for 15 min I call it MASH OUT. Then you take the grains out.4) I have everything running fine except the relays, the D5 light goes on and off as it should when i simulate a boil,with my temperature probe in my tea kettle to simulate a boil.5) I must have ordered the wrong relays.CheersAlan

    Hello Ruben. I got my parts and cannot get the relays working. My relays are low trigger. Are your relays High Trigger by any chance? If so I will have to change the code, or order new relays. No jumper to select from low/high Trigger, now I see you can order selectable relays. Please Advise?

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