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Hello DanTheMakerManI didn't see the points I am about to make in any of the comments, if they are there already apologies. The rest of your Instructable is excellent and the end product(s) looks great.I think you are doing the complete opposite to what is required, when you describe your heat-treating the steel.To prepare steel for working on, you "anneal" it (see https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Annealing_(metallurgy)), which is a process of heating the steel to, say, white-hot and cooling it very slowly. This makes for soft steel, or "mild steel". When you have finished working on a steel blade you "harden/temper" it, which is a process of heating it to, say, white hot and "quenching" it to cool it very rapidly, usually by plunging it in cold water.Each part of the process changes the crystalline structure of the steel. "Tempering" (see https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tempering_(metallurgy)) makes the steel fairly brittle and hard which is what is required for a good edge on a knife or sword. "Annealing" makes the steel soft so that you can file it. Files themselves are also made from "tempered" steel, which has a high carbon content (an impurity) which also means the tempered steel rusts very quickly. What we called "tempering" wikipedia calls "hardening" and describes tempering as a process that follows hardening, leaving the steel less brittle. I'd follow the Wikipedia process now, but we didn't as kids and made stunningly successful knives and short-swords out of files.To "anneal" the steel, you cool it slowly, slower than it will cool in air. This is often done by submerging the white-hot steel in lime powder and leaving it for a long time until you can handle it. Dry sand might do the trick. The slower the cooling, the softer the steel, which is exactly what you want when filing, cutting and hammering the steel.You actually tempered the steel before working on it, or at least tried to. The fact that you cut the saw blade with a hacksaw before annealing it, tends to make me believe, as per one comment, that you are not working with high-carbon steel when using a circular saw blade, even though the teeth most certainly are. Hardened high-carbon steel is quite brittle and would be dangerous on a circular saw as it may fragment/shatter (this is my guess anyway).The best way I have used, as I learnt as a 12-year-old, is to make a knife out of a file. Anneal the file - it becomes very soft and you can grind it, file it, hammer it and shape it. Then harden/temper the steel and you have a knife of the brittleness/hardness of the original file. Then hone it on a stone. Old files are cheap and readily available.Good luck
Your are in the process of creating a very valuable resource.Writing style; careful explanations; examples - they excellent and all work for me.Thank you, congratulations, and don't stop any time soon :-)
Great instructable, thanks.Comment on "eliminate bending over (50th birthday coming soon)":You are 'probably' in the process of throwing away a few years of your life and 'definitely' throwing away future mobility. Even if you have an injury, this still holds true. If you don't use it, you lose it, and 50 is a pathetically young age to be even contemplating this retrograde step. Say bye-bye to playing with your grandchildren.
Regarding Lumens, etc, and estimating - download a light meter app to your smartphone.
Great lesson, thanks. I will be giving this a go for sure.Small educational matter: (12.0 - 9.9 <> 3.1) and (12.0 - 9.9 = 2.1).I'm not sure yet what effect this would have on your project :-)
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