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Now I am using XY 80, Z 400 (actually XY 160 Y 800 cuz I am using 32 microstepping), and the 20mm cube turned out quite accurate (~19.9mm).
Building a Prusa i3 3D Printer
One possibility is that your belts are loose.
Well, there are so many parameters that can affect your final results. I suggest having a look at this: https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/ to find out which is your problem. It is common to have inconsistent results for the E steps, and a difference of 6 is not so large. If you are printing PLA, a very important is the cooling. Try printing at a lower temperature and adding fans blowing onto your prints. Good luck!
Awesome! Would you mind sharing the mods you used? Like, are you using a E3D hotend? How do you mount the hotend and the extruder? Thanks!
Hi AyushP2, I've also watched that video by Tom. Although it makes sense, but that is only his own opinion, anyway. The assumption here is that if everything is correct for each axis, then you should be able to calculate steps per mm based on the belt size and lead screw size, etc. However, there is always some errors here. I suggest you start with XYZ steps per mm (80, 80, 400). These are calculated values based on the belts and lead screw. Then do fine tuning using cube test or whatever works.
The endstop should be hit by a 60mm M3 pillar plus a M3 screw. Then what you need to do is to change the length of the M3 screw.
Watch this video by Tom: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YUPfBJz3I6Y. Basically, try to extruder 100mm filament using the LCD controller and see how long it actually extrudes, then change E accordingly.
Then you need to change the Marlin firmware. It seems that the hex file uploaded by the author limited the max temperature. You should be able to find some older comments by me or someone else about how to upload your own Marlin firmware.
Hi AyushP2, it sounds like the YZ arm does not really hit the Y endstop. I would suggest trying to manually press the Y endstop and see if the Y axis will be stopped. If so, then you need to figure out how to mount the Y endstop properly that you have a consistent hit.
I agree with dianusindustrial. Blue tapes also work for me and I got something like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BGBDJUK?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00.
Building a 3D Printer Under 200$
Have you thought of using Bowden extruder instead of direct extruder?
Very nicely done! really love the acrylic frame. Clearly you used some mods with the extruder/fan duct. Just wondering if you can share the design of how you mounted the fans near the extruder? Thx!
This is a tricky question...First of all, I wouldn't recommend printing ABS using this printer cuz there is no heat bed. Try to get PLA if you can. The main problem is the stepper motor which drives the gear. First check the current of the stepper, which you need a fairly large current, but too high current can also cause a problem. Also, tighten the screw which holds the spring if you feel the gear is not grasping the filament. See this link for more info: http://www.rc-cam.com/forum/index.php?/topic/4034-geeetech-mk8-extruder-tips-tricks-3d-printers/
Finally would call it a built. A big thank-you to AlmusYang on this Instructable. Although it does not cover everything, but the design is really complete. For a newbie like me, I think this printer is easier to DIY compared with other popular choices such as Prusa i3.
BTW, another thing I would like to mention is that for the Y axis stepper motor, the clearance is pretty tight, but it is the length of motor SHAFT not motor body that matters. I still used a 48mm long NEMA17, but had to use a hack saw to shorten the shaft by ~4mm.
In my case Cura worked pretty well... really like the visualization and printing time estimation. I guess for both Cura and slic3r one needs to spend fair amount of time optimizing the settings. Also cooling is very important for PLA. I still cannot get rid of the curling when I print small thingies or with overhangs.
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