With Instructables you can share what you make with the world, and tap into an ever-growing community of creative experts.
Tell us about yourself!
Thermometer MoodlightView Instructable »
Brilliant! amazing what you manage to squeeze out of the attiny13A!
Conway's Life of Life of 16×16 Cells Made With ATtiny13A.
Getting Started With Electronics
Electronics Tools and Materials
Thermometer That Pushes Arduino to Its Limits
Hi, not very deep. For this type of metal detector (based on induction measurement), its range is about half the diameter of the coil. So a larger coil will probe deeper, but be less sensitive to small objects.
Super Bright RGB LED Bike Wheels
Hi, well noted! No, it's actually better to have a single wire. It's just that at the the time I didn't have an 8m piece of wire, so I soldered together two pieces which happened to have two different colours, nothing more than that. Good luck!
Brilliant. This allows me to use 10muF ceramic capacitors that seem te exist only as SMD. Electrolytics do not work well at high frequency, and terribly imprecise.
Using SMD Components on Breadboards
DIY Bedwetting AlarmView Instructable »
Laser Motion Control of Levitating Graphite
In my case the search coil has R=4.5cm, N=18 gives L~40muH. But contrary to beat-frequency-oscillation (BFO) detectors, that need a very precise matching, the value of the inductance does not matter much here, and variations of a factor 2 or 3 are fine. The main thing is to have the ADC reading somewhere around 30% of the maximum, where it is most precise. In the inductance of the search coil is too low, the number of pulses per reading can be increased in the code. If the inductance is too high, the number of pulses can be decreased. Also the value of the capacitor can be adjusted.
Hi, They do the same, only I did not put the sound on the prototype version, since I didn't intent to take it outside. Using a prototype shield is great to set things up quickly, test the idea and the software, but it's too fragile to take outside. Also, outside the sunlight is too strong to see the LEDs well, so having sound really helps. Ah also I didn't make a real search coil for the prototype, just a 6m roll of hookup wire
Measuring the IV Curve of S...View Instructable »
Hi, it is attached at step 6
The range is similar to the radius of the coil, so 4.5cm for the 9cm diameter coil that I used. A larger coil would have a larger range, but be less sensitive to small objects, since what is measured is the relative change in inductance.The detector 'sees' through other objects: I got clear signals through a 3cm thick wooden table when placing a metal object on top and sweeping the detector from below.Note that a nail won't give a strong signal since it's cross-section area is small
Ah I recall the timer pins differ between the 328 and the 2560:http://playground.arduino.cc/Main/TimerPWMCheatshe... says that on the 2560 timer1 outputs on pin 12 and 11 instead of the 9 and 10 on the 328. The Rx Tx lights on the Arduino are useful for debugging too: both should be blinking intermittently: the Arduino only returns a 1500-byte trace after receiving a 30-byte command. So it seems it is receiving commands but not sending back the trace, no idea how that can be...
That looks interesting, thanks for the tip! 1Ms/s would be a major improvement. Googling around it seems that the DIY DSO138 oscilloscope is in fact based on the STM32F103C8T6. OK I ordered a cheap development board. It will take two months to arrive. It seems programming it is less trivial than with the Arduino though. Do I need additional hardware to program it? Do you have any experience yourself with this chip/board and have a suggestion for what's needed to program it?
The Arduino sketch is full of direct read/writes to registers (most are needed for speed), it's not expected to work on any other chip than the ATMEGA328. That said, from a quick look at the 2560 data sheet I don't see immediate incompatibilities. What happens exactly, it doesn't compile, doesn't run, gives garbage, gives a flat line? ( I don't have a MEGA2560 so can't try it out...)
I checked for Italy. You must immediately stop and report if it's archeological or hazardous. If it has value you have to bring it to the police, but if it's not claimed after a year it's yours. Seemed surprisingly reasonable to me...
Simple Arduino Metal DetectorView Instructable »
Glad it works! Did you get a specific error with the Arduino IDE? I now added the version numbers of Arduino and Processing that I used (1.6.12 and 3.3 respectively)
Good luck and let me know if you run into trouble or have suggestions for improvements!The precision is actually better than many commercial oscilloscopes: the Arduino has an 10-bit ADC while most commercial ones have only 8.In addition, it has 6 channels, while you'll typically find 2 or 4 on regular oscilloscopes. The pulse generator is also much more flexible, a regular oscilloscope typically only has a 1kHz calibration signal with 50% duty cycle, here you can select between 500kHz and 2Hz with a wide range of duty cycles.The main limitation is the sampling rate: 77ks/s means being limited to signals of 20kHz or less. There are USB scopes for about 50 euros that have 48Ms/s. Other limitations are the few options for the vertical scale and single-ended input.But if you have an Arduino...see more »Good luck and let me know if you run into trouble or have suggestions for improvements!The precision is actually better than many commercial oscilloscopes: the Arduino has an 10-bit ADC while most commercial ones have only 8.In addition, it has 6 channels, while you'll typically find 2 or 4 on regular oscilloscopes. The pulse generator is also much more flexible, a regular oscilloscope typically only has a 1kHz calibration signal with 50% duty cycle, here you can select between 500kHz and 2Hz with a wide range of duty cycles.The main limitation is the sampling rate: 77ks/s means being limited to signals of 20kHz or less. There are USB scopes for about 50 euros that have 48Ms/s. Other limitations are the few options for the vertical scale and single-ended input.But if you have an Arduino (UNO, or Nano, original or clone) already, it comes for free, should be easy to set up, and can be a great tool for many situations.
Another Arduino OscilloscopeView Instructable »
PIR cabinet lightView Instructable »
Toothbrush timer with mathquizView Instructable »
Let your inbox help you discover our best projects, classes, and contests. Instructables will help you learn how to make anything!
© 2016 Autodesk, Inc.