With Instructables you can share what you make with the world, and tap into an ever-growing community of creative experts.
Tell us about yourself!
Excellent idea!!! I used a similar approach, but then I hooked up the servo to an arduino and wrote a scetch to attach it in the original manner to the solenoid circuit (solenoid25) and the switch matrix of the pinball. The pinball machine thinks now there is a real motorset in the head, just like the original. The signal for the opto is also generated by the arduino, when it is in the center position. Now the head moves also with e.g. the testmenu and "counts" the sweeps... Just like the real thing.Next I took it one step further and mounted 125 RGB LEDS in the base. They are aranged in 25 columns and 5 rows. I use another arduino with three TM1640 leddrivers to control the 375 LEDS. Animations are stored on an SD card and allow all sort of color animation sequences....Here is the moving Dalek with an early version, I now have added an LCD and menu to change the settings, speed, way it moves, etc. Here is it mounted in the pinball:Here you see work in progress with the 125 animated RGB Leds..
Here's the direct links to the cables.https://www.amazon.com/Extension-Cable-Philips-Lig...https://www.amazon.com/Extension-Cable-Philips-Lig...
Well I tried to do this, but was unable to get the solder to melt. I needed 3 meter sections for my project and what I ended up doing is cutting the heat shrink off the 6 meter section and the connector came off so I ended up getting two 3 meter extensions.Also, I found these extension cables handy. I was going to cut one in half and solder the wires to the LED strip so they could be connected & disconnected as needed.https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=bl_dp_s_web_0?ie=UTF8&search-alias=aps&field-keywords=Litcessory+%28Philips+Compatible%29
Thanks for the comment, clip ons are indeed an easier to use solution, although you still should desolder to keep the best length for the contact. I looked for those, but could not find any suitable 6 pin clip on connectors. Also the spacing is 2mm and not the more current 2.54mm. I did find and order 2mm spaced header, both female and male. These can be used for making detachable connections, but they took langer from China to arrive than I wanted to wait. If you're confident soldering it is very doable. In my case I did not want to move the strips, so soldering was the most reliable solution for me.If someone found fitting 6 pin clip ons, it seems 2mm spacing, drop a link here.
You can buy various solder free connectors for coupling wires onto the ends of the generic RGBW strips, does anybody know if the solder pads on the hue strips would line up these or is the spacing different? If so it would halve the risk of damaging the strip, by only needing to desolder and tin the joints then clip them on
Cutting and reconnecting Hue Light strip Plus segments
I used this method to connect two disjointed sections of kitchen cabinet top lighting. Total length was 5 meters, and I split one of the 1 meter segments in two, and connected the segments using Cat5e cable.I was a bit worried for a while when one of the solder joints appeared to get warm during operation, but it turned out to be one of the SMD chips on the strip. A similar heat spot was found on the same chip on each of the segments along the strips.For others worrying about overheating; the following site has a calculator that will let you determine the voltage drop (and subsequently the power dissipation) over a length of wire: http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htmThe hue strips run on 12VDC, and has a power draw of max 1A per meter (guesstimate, since the power supply is rated for 10A, and the max length of a LightStrip Plus is 10 meters). Each wire in a Cat5e cable is AWG24, or AWG23 for Cat6. Now go forth and calculate, lest ye burn down your houses. :)Yes, those terrible 12V halogen spots are going to be replaced with something receptive to Hue bulbs as soon as I get around to it.
Simple, once you know how it is done. Embarrasing to say that I made many (like over 300) connections, while removing the tab and inserting the wire into the connector while holding it in the crimping device... After a while I got 100% ok connections, but the process was slower then needed and required much concentration. Nice instructable!
Well done and congratulations with the result!Thanks for sharing.After de-soldering you can get rid of the tin with a tin suction device if necessary. In fact mine is shown in the first picture with the overview showing the 6 disconnected strips. You might also be able to heat it up and shake it off. Start soldering using new tin with as much of the old tin removed as possible. The flux of the new tin helps making better connections.
I just did your tutorial and it works like charm.As it was my first time with a soldering iron, the connections may not be perfect but it gets the job done. Though I had some concerns about unsoldering the two layer of strip. I thought if I applied the tip on all the soldering point at the same time it will mix up the tin and bridge the connections but that was not the case. Using that method the two layer separate very easily without making a mess.Otherwise using an Ethernet cable is a great idea :)(Sorry for possible English mistakes)
Join 2 million + to receive instant DIY inspiration in your inbox.
Download our apps!
© 2016 Autodesk, Inc.