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  • setsunakaede commented on iccycold3000's instructable 3D Printed Lathe3 months ago
    3D Printed Lathe

    While I still have my doubts as to how rigid this homebuilt lathe is (owning a cast-steel mini-lathe myself and finding too much flex in that already), I must congratulate you on your marksmanship and perseverance, and of course the result! It is a remarkable piece of creative marksmanship and if it works for what you intend on doing, so much for the better!You actually inspired me for a solution for my own lathe; I still need height adjustment for my milling attachment, never thought of designing and printing it myself... *heads for the 3DCAD program, with some chips&cola...*

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  • setsunakaede made the instructable EWaste 60$ 3DPrinter3 months ago
    EWaste 60$ 3DPrinter

    Hi, theses are the only files I have, since these are the only files I actually downloaded and used. Everything else I figured out on my own, as you can see on the images I uploaded.Good luck!

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  • setsunakaede commented on mikelllc's instructable EWaste 60$ 3DPrinter8 months ago
    EWaste 60$ 3DPrinter

    Huh? What do you mean...?I didn't request for a picture step-by-step...???

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  • setsunakaede made the instructable EWaste 60$ 3DPrinter8 months ago
    EWaste 60$ 3DPrinter

    I noticed a lot of people had questions on how I mounted the steppers, sliders, built the gantry, built my extruder, mounted my hotend.... so here are some more pictures, I hope they can be someone to some help.Please note that my way is by no means the best way, it's just a way that worked for me. Also, I didn't design it, I just followed the tutorials here on 'ibles and on the internet such as the Marlin website - which is a great wealth of information.Good luck!

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  • setsunakaede commented on mikelllc's instructable EWaste 60$ 3DPrinter9 months ago
    EWaste 60$ 3DPrinter

    Do you have a fan blowing over the cooler block? If not, then there is your issue. The cooler block should be cooled actively at all times, as close to the heat brake as possible. (i.e. you should try to cool the bottom fins too)Also check the alignment of all the parts in your hotend. My hotend was not straight on the inside so I had to drill it out quite far before things started working. Do you have the all-metal heat-break or one with a PTFE liner? All-metal can run higher temperatures but is also more prone to heat-creep so it is all the more important that you cool the cooler block.

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  • setsunakaede commented on mikelllc's instructable EWaste 60$ 3DPrinter9 months ago
    EWaste 60$ 3DPrinter

    Hi Pietro,I believe I explained how I made the extruder once or twice in the comments, basically I got "inspiration" from other extruders. Most of what I did on my extruder was done only with a saw, drill, file and needle file, the exception being the idler pulley - but only because I have a lathe at my disposal. You could also make the idler pulley using a drill and round file if you put your mind to it.I don't have any detailed instructions as I made it up while I was building it and I didn't take any pictures. Basically what you want to build is a stepper motor with drive pulley (in my case, the pressed-on gear filed sharp with the needle file), an idler pulley with a lever and a spring to keep the filament pressed against the drive pulley and a filament pickup as close as ...

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    Hi Pietro,I believe I explained how I made the extruder once or twice in the comments, basically I got "inspiration" from other extruders. Most of what I did on my extruder was done only with a saw, drill, file and needle file, the exception being the idler pulley - but only because I have a lathe at my disposal. You could also make the idler pulley using a drill and round file if you put your mind to it.I don't have any detailed instructions as I made it up while I was building it and I didn't take any pictures. Basically what you want to build is a stepper motor with drive pulley (in my case, the pressed-on gear filed sharp with the needle file), an idler pulley with a lever and a spring to keep the filament pressed against the drive pulley and a filament pickup as close as possible to the pulleys. It's no rocket science, pretty much everything I used is either scrap or aluminum profiles from the local hardware store.

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  • setsunakaede commented on mikelllc's instructable EWaste 60$ 3DPrinter9 months ago
    EWaste 60$ 3DPrinter

    Hi Pietro, you are trying to work around what exactly? And what No3d problem do you mean? I don't understand.

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  • setsunakaede commented on mikelllc's instructable EWaste 60$ 3DPrinter10 months ago
    EWaste 60$ 3DPrinter

    Nice! Congrats, and that was quickly resolved!BTW, I like the look of your printer, with the DVD housings as structure. Well done!

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  • setsunakaede commented on mikelllc's instructable EWaste 60$ 3DPrinter10 months ago
    EWaste 60$ 3DPrinter

    Congrats on finishing the printer!Your feed rate issue could have a ton of different sources, but I'd start by looking at your extruder. Is it skipping (really audible clicks and you see the gear "jump" back) or grinding over the filament? Does it really extrude 10mm when you tell it to? (severe overextrusion can cause hopeless underextrusion issues when the extruder loses its grip on the filament)What happens if you try and assist the filament by hand?You can resolve a lot of these issues by either increasing the current for the extruder stepper (but mind if it gets too hot), toying around with the steps_per_mm setting for the extruder, the sharpness of the extruder gear (mine was a discarded printer stepper with a pressed-on gear, of which I had to file down the teeth to get...

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    Congrats on finishing the printer!Your feed rate issue could have a ton of different sources, but I'd start by looking at your extruder. Is it skipping (really audible clicks and you see the gear "jump" back) or grinding over the filament? Does it really extrude 10mm when you tell it to? (severe overextrusion can cause hopeless underextrusion issues when the extruder loses its grip on the filament)What happens if you try and assist the filament by hand?You can resolve a lot of these issues by either increasing the current for the extruder stepper (but mind if it gets too hot), toying around with the steps_per_mm setting for the extruder, the sharpness of the extruder gear (mine was a discarded printer stepper with a pressed-on gear, of which I had to file down the teeth to get them sharp enough) and the tension of the spring that pushes the idler wheel against the filament (increasing grip but also drag).If this all doesn't work, take apart your hotend and check the alignment. Mine was so badly fabricated that I had to drill it out all the way to the end and I pushed my bowden tube through - that fixed stuff, sort of.Good luck on the troubleshooting!

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  • setsunakaede commented on mikelllc's instructable EWaste 60$ 3DPrinter10 months ago
    EWaste 60$ 3DPrinter

    Hi Francisco, you are Right. I didn't use NEMA steppers, I just used what was at hand - in this case, a stepper from I think an old laser printer, or a scanner. The gear teeth were filed Sharp and everything else was leftover aluminium profiles, some Brass and some bolts, nuts and rings. And a Spring, of course. I just looked at how the readymade extruders function and copied their principle. Because I just bodged it together, and didn't take any pictures along the way, I can't be much More specific than this I'm afraid. It all depends on what you Have and what you are willing to buy (and of course how handy you are. Luckily in China the readymade extruders are cheap if maling it yourself doesn't work)

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  • setsunakaede commented on mikelllc's instructable EWaste 60$ 3DPrinter11 months ago
    EWaste 60$ 3DPrinter

    Actually, you are a little wrong here. You refer to Ohm's Law (U=I*R) and that is correct, however since the resistance is a constant (a characteristic of the motor) if you decrease voltage you also decrease the current running through the motor and that in turn decreases the temperature of the motor - and the power the motor can exert (since P=I^2*R). Increasing voltage would increase the temperature of the motor - quite rapidly, actually, since it increases exponentially. THAT would definately fry your electronics indeed.So yeah, always be careful tinkering with the settings - but lowering the voltage is the safe side of things here.

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  • setsunakaede commented on mikelllc's instructable EWaste 60$ 3DPrinter11 months ago
    EWaste 60$ 3DPrinter

    It's not that hard, I used the information from this instructable which is - be it somewhat unstructured - largely complete and just replaced all laser cut and 3D printed parts with hand-cut and crafted items. In terms of building, you should be familiar with saws, plywood, wood glue, bolts and nuts, and some basic metalworking skills.In terms of getting it to work - the internet is your friend, starting with the Instructables website. Stepper motors, Arduino and RAMPS / Marlin are worlds on their own and you should read up on that so you have at least an idea of what you are doing. You don't need superduper Arduino programming skillz but you should be able to read the configuration.h file and modify the various items to your printer. You also need to understand the way steppers work to...

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    It's not that hard, I used the information from this instructable which is - be it somewhat unstructured - largely complete and just replaced all laser cut and 3D printed parts with hand-cut and crafted items. In terms of building, you should be familiar with saws, plywood, wood glue, bolts and nuts, and some basic metalworking skills.In terms of getting it to work - the internet is your friend, starting with the Instructables website. Stepper motors, Arduino and RAMPS / Marlin are worlds on their own and you should read up on that so you have at least an idea of what you are doing. You don't need superduper Arduino programming skillz but you should be able to read the configuration.h file and modify the various items to your printer. You also need to understand the way steppers work to be able to troubleshoot any issues with them.Other than that, only a little perseverance and motivation is needed ;-)

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  • ESP8266 EcoPlug Wifi Smart Outlet MQTT Mod for less than $15

    Hmmm..., this project looks nice, but... what IS it? Could you perhaps add some context to the story by telling what it exactly is and why we would definately make one (or two, or dozens...)? I am aching to know what this could improve for me!

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  • setsunakaede commented on mikelllc's instructable EWaste 60$ 3DPrinter11 months ago
    EWaste 60$ 3DPrinter

    I honestly don't know. I printed it out on (I believe) A3 paper and stuck that together. I printed out two versions but that was over a year ago and I didn't bother documenting anything... So it was pretty much empirical for me.

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  • setsunakaede commented on mikelllc's instructable EWaste 60$ 3DPrinter11 months ago
    EWaste 60$ 3DPrinter

    My build volume is 37x37x14mm, 10x10x10mm was the test cube I printed because the 20x20x20mm was too big ;-)If you want to go bigger, you'd need other parts, which brings you in a totally different game; you'd have to design your own sliders and drive gear instead of relying on the DVD players manufacturer to have that done for you. It will be harder, you will have to think and design a lot more yourself and it will probably be more expensive since you need beefier steppers etc.

    Hi, no. I didn't 3D-print anything for this printer (or for any printer for that matter). If you really intend to build something other than a very small printer built from DVD- and Floppy drives, this is really the wrong instructable for you. There are plenty other instructables out there, though, for DIY 3D-printers. You should be able to combine the information provided here and in the other instructables (or anywhere on the internet, for that matter) to build your own, larger, printer.

    My build volume is 37x37x14mm, 10x10x10mm was the test cube I printed because the 20x20x20mm was too big ;-)

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  • setsunakaede commented on mikelllc's instructable EWaste 60$ 3DPrinter11 months ago
    EWaste 60$ 3DPrinter

    There is no real solution for that, we are driving them way over their limits.You could try and install cooling fins and have a fan blow over your printer (which is a good idea anyways for your print too) but yeah, they will heat up alarmingly.You can also try and reduce the voltage fed to the board, make it 10V instead of 12V. No idea if that works at all, though.

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  • setsunakaede commented on mikelllc's instructable EWaste 60$ 3DPrinter11 months ago
    EWaste 60$ 3DPrinter

    Hi Hossein, I followed the procedure of this instructables, so I went with the default Marlin settings, moved 1cm and measured. Then calculated the difference between what should have been and what was actually moved, changed the steps_per_mm settings accordingly and repeated the process until happy. Then printed a test cube 10x10x10mm and measured. Changed the steps_per_mm again to fine adjust. It's no rocket science but you'll have to take a bit of time for this.

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  • setsunakaede commented on mikelllc's instructable EWaste 60$ 3DPrinter12 months ago
    EWaste 60$ 3DPrinter

    Look at my comments, I bodged an extruder together without printed parts so yes you can do it - or just buy a ready-made extruder from our Chinese friends (but that will obviously add to the costs).

    The 20-pin also carries +12V I believe and the current this little printer draws is not that much so you can use the wires from the 20-pin just fine.

    Hi, since this printer only has very small steppers and no heated bed, pretty much any ATX power supply is already overkill so I just picked one off my pile of cr##. I think you could get away with, like, 12V/5A or so...

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  • setsunakaede commented on mikelllc's instructable EWaste 60$ 3DPrinter1 year ago
    EWaste 60$ 3DPrinter

    Dvd steppers are not Strong enough to lift the hotend assembly on their own, that's why.

    That's indeed for the extruder. But honestly, I really don' t know how to determine if a stepper is suitable or not - I just went with the largest stepper with metal gear I could find and hoped for the best.

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  • setsunakaede commented on mikelllc's instructable EWaste 60$ 3DPrinter1 year ago
    EWaste 60$ 3DPrinter

    You can see a little in the photos of the back of the printer: I had a stepper motor from an old printer with the mounting plate still attached. I used this mounting plate and some aluminium extrusion profiles to build up the structure for the bowden tube and the spring spanner for the idler pulley lever.The idler pulley is made from a piece of brass in which I drilled a hole and made a little groove, it spins around a bolt in the idler pulley lever which is a U-shaped aluminium profile in itself, and also hinges around a (bigger) bolt attached to the mounting plate. The extrusion gear is simply the gear that was already on the motor, filed sharp with a small triangular shape file for grips.My advise would be to look at the pictures of a "real" extruder (examples enough on Ali...

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    You can see a little in the photos of the back of the printer: I had a stepper motor from an old printer with the mounting plate still attached. I used this mounting plate and some aluminium extrusion profiles to build up the structure for the bowden tube and the spring spanner for the idler pulley lever.The idler pulley is made from a piece of brass in which I drilled a hole and made a little groove, it spins around a bolt in the idler pulley lever which is a U-shaped aluminium profile in itself, and also hinges around a (bigger) bolt attached to the mounting plate. The extrusion gear is simply the gear that was already on the motor, filed sharp with a small triangular shape file for grips.My advise would be to look at the pictures of a "real" extruder (examples enough on Aliexpress and Banggood), then check what you have and how you can mimick the design. Thats what I did; just bodged it together with what I had on hand...

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  • setsunakaede commented on mikelllc's instructable EWaste 60$ 3DPrinter1 year ago
    EWaste 60$ 3DPrinter

    I think that should do, I ordered this for an other build I hope to get started on somewhere this fall or so, it looks prettyh similar be it already with stepper and assembled: http://www.aliexpress.com/item/New-Arrival-High-Qu...Bear in mind that for both ordered extruder kits you will need M6 thread size pneumatic fittings - they don't come with the kit. http://www.aliexpress.com/item/5pcs-lot-PC4-M6-Pne...And also you will need something to mount it with, a bracket is not supplied.

    I think the direction doesn't matter that much really, I chose to build my extruder so that it puts out the filament to the left of the printer, if watched from the front of the printer - and the tightening arm points slightly downward. But then again I just hacked my own extruder together, so ymmv.

    I think that should do, I ordered this for an other build I hope to get started on somewhere this fall or so, it looks prettyh similar be it already with stepper and assembled: http://www.aliexpress.com/item/New-Arrival-High-Qu...Bear in mind that for both ordered extruder kits you will need M6 thread size pneumatic fittings - they don't come with the kit. http://www.aliexpress.com/item/5pcs-lot-PC4-M6-Pneumatic-Straight-Fitting-Connector-for-4mm-OD-tubing-M6-6mm-Reprap-3D/32463992479.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.58.HM5C9gAnd also you will need something to mount it with, a bracket is not supplied.

    The orientation of the extruder does make a difference when you are replacing an extruder or if you have a specific location in mind where to put it. Also it is a matter of preference, I think. For this build, choose the orientation that is going to give you the shortest possible bowden tube without overdoing it - it actually works as a spring counteracting the - weak - DVDRom steppers.You do indeed need to buy or fabricate a bracket to mount the extruder to the case.The connectors to that bowdentube are NOT M6 - they are probably 1/2" or so. It's the thread size that goes into the hotend - at least, the hotend I used on my printer. Different seller means different fabrication can mean different thread size. Keep an eye out for these things when ordering from China, I misordered st...

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    The orientation of the extruder does make a difference when you are replacing an extruder or if you have a specific location in mind where to put it. Also it is a matter of preference, I think. For this build, choose the orientation that is going to give you the shortest possible bowden tube without overdoing it - it actually works as a spring counteracting the - weak - DVDRom steppers.You do indeed need to buy or fabricate a bracket to mount the extruder to the case.The connectors to that bowdentube are NOT M6 - they are probably 1/2" or so. It's the thread size that goes into the hotend - at least, the hotend I used on my printer. Different seller means different fabrication can mean different thread size. Keep an eye out for these things when ordering from China, I misordered stuff too in some occasions. Luckily the pricing is such that you can afford these kinds of mistakes every now and then, but still....

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  • setsunakaede commented on mikelllc's instructable EWaste 60$ 3DPrinter1 year ago
    EWaste 60$ 3DPrinter

    I know - my steppers also get very hot. It's a consequence of running them at much higher load than originally designed.

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  • setsunakaede commented on mikelllc's instructable EWaste 60$ 3DPrinter1 year ago
    EWaste 60$ 3DPrinter

    The kit I used consisted of the alu heat block, alu cooler body, heat break, nozzle, pneumatic coupler, thermistor and heater cardridge. I completed it with a small computer fan I already had, some aluminum profiles to create the mount and a PTFE bowden tube 1.75mm including two connectors (it was a little set).So what I BOUGHT was:-The Jhead E3D kit-The Bowden tube with fitting pneumatic connectorsIf I was to order it today, I would order this:http://nl.aliexpress.com/item/E3D-V6-3D-Printer-J-... (received it a week ago, looks sweet - sweeter than what's on my eWaste printer actually)http://nl.aliexpress.com/item/1M-3D-Printer-PTFE-T...That should do the whole trick - apart from mounting it and the extruder stepper assembly of course, which goes on the other end of the tube.Nuts and bo...

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    The kit I used consisted of the alu heat block, alu cooler body, heat break, nozzle, pneumatic coupler, thermistor and heater cardridge. I completed it with a small computer fan I already had, some aluminum profiles to create the mount and a PTFE bowden tube 1.75mm including two connectors (it was a little set).So what I BOUGHT was:-The Jhead E3D kit-The Bowden tube with fitting pneumatic connectorsIf I was to order it today, I would order this:http://nl.aliexpress.com/item/E3D-V6-3D-Printer-J-... (received it a week ago, looks sweet - sweeter than what's on my eWaste printer actually)http://nl.aliexpress.com/item/1M-3D-Printer-PTFE-T...That should do the whole trick - apart from mounting it and the extruder stepper assembly of course, which goes on the other end of the tube.Nuts and bolts can be bought at any decent hardware store, I collected a lot of them over time and store them in a drawer cabinet so I always have some at hand.

    I tried but put it back to False as it introduces A LOT of inaccuracy. If you stop powering the steppers, the motor falls back to its closest natural rest state - if you are lucky - or is freely moved by friction introduced by the other axes.

    Hi, I don't really have a complete parts list as I just made it up as I went - but in short I used:-Arduino Mega + RAMPS 1.4 kit including stepper drivers-E3D-hotend knockoff complete kit-Bowden PTFE tube-Pneufittings (this all came from Aliexpress and Banggood, search for the best price with reasonable reviews)-Two DVD-drives with "large" steppers (I first had one drive with a stepper of less than a cm dia, which was blatantly underpowered)-One floppy drive-A large stepper from an old discarded printer, gear "modified" with a small file for better grip-A bit of polycarbonate as build bed-A bit of veroboard to act as spacer between DVD-drive carriage and build bed-A computer PSU-Some plywood for the frame and misc.-Some aluminium extruded profiles from the hardware...

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    Hi, I don't really have a complete parts list as I just made it up as I went - but in short I used:-Arduino Mega + RAMPS 1.4 kit including stepper drivers-E3D-hotend knockoff complete kit-Bowden PTFE tube-Pneufittings (this all came from Aliexpress and Banggood, search for the best price with reasonable reviews)-Two DVD-drives with "large" steppers (I first had one drive with a stepper of less than a cm dia, which was blatantly underpowered)-One floppy drive-A large stepper from an old discarded printer, gear "modified" with a small file for better grip-A bit of polycarbonate as build bed-A bit of veroboard to act as spacer between DVD-drive carriage and build bed-A computer PSU-Some plywood for the frame and misc.-Some aluminium extruded profiles from the hardware store-A bit of brass I had on hand, drilled and grooved, for the idler pulley-Misc bolts and nuts, mostly M3, M4, M5, as needed to mount whatever you want to mount-Some electrical wires from the bits-box and Aliexpress (for the 4-pin-connectors of the steppers).

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  • setsunakaede commented on mikelllc's instructable EWaste 60$ 3DPrinter1 year ago
    EWaste 60$ 3DPrinter

    I finally got around building one, be it a bit modified as I don't have access to either a laser cutter or a 3D printer for the extruder parts (okay, I DO have access to a 3D printer if I really want but thats not the point) so I had to hack my way through the build. But it works, and it works reasonably well actually. It set me back only $40,- on electronics, hotend and bowden tube!

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  • setsunakaede commented on PaulSS's instructable UltiFaker²Go 3D Printer1 year ago
    UltiFaker²Go 3D Printer

    Hi Paul, great instructable!Could I ask you to also do an 'ible on your router? I love it and would like to build something like that once my garage is a bit cleaned out.

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