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Yep, I saw the pictures and replied (see comments); I think sanding the veneer with 150 grit should be safe, but if you want to sand off the veneer entirely, I'd go with the lowest grit available (60 or even 40 grit), or better yet, a planer.
No, the sander you have should be fine I think. I think you should be fine starting with 150 grit. Looks like a fun project; let me know how it turns out!
Thanks!My only thought on sanding veneer would be to be careful: you don't want to sand so much that you go all the way through the veneer of course.
Do you have a picture? You'll probably be pretty safe with 150 or 220 grit, but depending on how much finish you have to take off, it might take a while. 60 or 80 grit would be more aggressive, but more risky.
Cool, good luck!
6-8 oz (3/32 - 1/8" thick)
Well I gave the book away so I'm not sure how it is now, but 9 months or so after making it it seemed to be in great shape.
Thanks, glad you enjoyed them! I've never heard anything about Carol Fayes' biscuits, but they sound delicious :)
No, you're right, I mentioned PDFs in step 3 and forgot to attach them. They're attached now! Thanks for pointing that out.
Check out the comment above by pedalmonkey, who had the same problem. I'm not sure why this seems to happen for people every once in a while. You can always lower the amount of water if you don't like the stickiness; as Step 3 shows, the amount of liquid isn't very important for how the final biscuits turn out. I used 1 cup because it was easy to remember, but using 3/4 cup or even 1/2 cup (though some flour doesn't get incorporated) will still yield good biscuits. After pedalmonkey's comment, I did record a video of me using the exact measurements in the final recipe (see final step); you can refer to that video to see how the ingredients turned out for me.
Wooden Gear Trains
Thanks! Yeah, for my parents in law.
mm... sounds delish!
Thanks! I found that tip online somewhere... can't remember where.
Wow, looks awesome! Thanks for sharing.
Thanks! No, it's not bad... about the same as a 13x9 glass baking dish I'd say.
Breakfast TrayView Instructable »
I think engraving should be easy with just about any laser. I've cut through pretty thick leather using a 45-watt Epilogue.
I would check Tandy leather. Sometimes fabric stores will have small pieces of chrome-tanned leather (the softer kind that you probably want for book binding) for cheap. You can also use upholstery leather, which sometimes looks a little more "fake" but is very cheap. Here's a couple instructables I have on book binding: it's a lot of fun!https://www.instructables.com/id/Leather-binding-a-Paperback-A-New-and-Improved-Gui/https://www.instructables.com/id/Bind-a-Book-in-Tooled-Leather/
DIY Customized Circuit Board (PCB Making)
Yes and yes! Also, see my updated instructable with what I think is a slightly better method here: https://www.instructables.com/id/Leather-binding-a-Paperback-A-New-and-Improved-Gui/
I'm not sure... I've never tried it. The best way might be to remove the rings, perfect-bind the pages, then proceed as usual. Another possibility would be to cut two separate pieces of leather and gluing them to the front and back covers (leaving the rings exposed).
and that ;)
Awesome, post pictures if you get a chance!
Leather Domino CaseView Instructable »
I would recommend 1/16" chipboard (see step 9), but it's not super crucial.
Yeah, I'd say four or five 1-2 hour nights would be plenty.
let me know how it works out
Sorry, I don't have files for the expansions... it should be pretty easy to modify the base files though!
Yeah... not sure why I wrote not to glue it to the spine. I think my thought was that the leather would slide over the cardboard easier if I only glued them together at the folds. Looking back, I don't think it would have made a difference. I'll modify step 15. Thanks!
I have! They are here (you can skip the tooling if you like): https://www.instructables.com/id/Bind-a-Book-in-Tooled-Leather/
My only advice would be to make sure the binding itself (the glue and super) is intact. It's fine for it to curl away from the spine of the cover... in fact, books are designed to do this (that's why you don't glue the spine of the cover to the spine of the text block).
Thanks! Yes, do it, and post a picture!
Thanks! Definitely give it a try, it's pretty fun. And nice pencil case!
It means the thickness of the cardboard; the idea is that the leather will be able to cover that thickness.Thanks, enjoy!
Good luck! What's the book?
I've never used Rumford, but it seems to have good reviews. Sounds worth a try... if you try it, let me know how it turns out!
Right, the spine is glued to the leather but not the book. Good luck!
Nice, looks great!
Great, glad it worked out!
Hard to say... Veneer is just thin wood, so anything made for stripping wood should be safe... I'm not very experienced in using chemical stripping agents though.
Nice! Looks great. Thanks for posting.
I would recommend cutting everything you can with a skil saw, then using a router or jig saw (both of which will be a lot slower) for the tight turns. Fixed vs plunge router: I'm no expert, but I think you'd want the plunge router if you need to "plunge" (i.e. start in the middle somewhere). Alternatively, you could use a drill to make a starter hole and then use a fixed router from that starting point.
Thanks for the great design and instructions! It was my first time using rivets; now a whole new world is open to me :)
Thanks, glad it was helpful!
thanks! and ha, yes: I was trying to show it's durability.
Thanks! Good luck with the hospital books: post pictures if you get a chance.
Thanks a ton!
Thanks! Yes, definitely give it a try (and post a picture if you do!)
Tandy Leather is a great place. You can also find small pieces on amazon: search for "vegetable tanned leather".
Thanks very much!
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