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548CommentsOostrozebeke, Belgium
Swift Developer - Fusion 360 Ninja - CAD/CAM/3DP Engineer

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  • stormychel commented on aldricnegrier's instructable Mega Prusa i31 week ago
    Mega Prusa i3

    I have published my evolution of the Mega Prusa i3 on Thingiverse. It features a stronger frame (also in case of MDF), support for 2 Chimera hotends, and all my improvements I made to the Mega Prusa i3, including the alternative Y-carriage. Enjoy :)

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  • stormychel commented on aldricnegrier's instructable Mega Prusa i32 months ago
    Mega Prusa i3

    True :) Working to finally get that Chimera hotend that's gathering dust here for almost a year to work because the Wade extruder is wearing out... At first I was planning to use a Diamond hotend instead but in the end I'll go with the Chimera, since a) I already have it and b) I think it allows for more precise control over which color goes where, when there is no leaking off cause. The leaking is no big concern because I always use the same brand of ABS, HIPS and PETG, and have gotten a feel for how they flow.This conversion will also make my X-carriage a lot lighter, which in turn allows for higher speeds. I can comfortably print 100mm/s now, just set and forget. Speeds up to 200mm/s are handled well by the machine, but this gave me some issues with a) infill not sticking well, and b...see more »True :) Working to finally get that Chimera hotend that's gathering dust here for almost a year to work because the Wade extruder is wearing out... At first I was planning to use a Diamond hotend instead but in the end I'll go with the Chimera, since a) I already have it and b) I think it allows for more precise control over which color goes where, when there is no leaking off cause. The leaking is no big concern because I always use the same brand of ABS, HIPS and PETG, and have gotten a feel for how they flow.This conversion will also make my X-carriage a lot lighter, which in turn allows for higher speeds. I can comfortably print 100mm/s now, just set and forget. Speeds up to 200mm/s are handled well by the machine, but this gave me some issues with a) infill not sticking well, and b) the Y-axis losing steps on larger (heavier) prints. I tackled issue a by lowering my default layer height from 300 micron to 250, this has worked wonders. Issue b is still a hard one, as it is very unpredictable, but I've seen that some people went to a Nema-23 with good results so that might be next. My idea was to use 2 Nema-17's, one on the front of the Y-carriage and one on the back, but then wiring could become an issue. I might solve this in the firmware, but I'm not so keen on branching the Marlin firmware, because then I need to keep up with it's development cycle as well, and I have a lot of other stuff on my hands... but it probably would work and would not be so hard to implement... This solution has the advantage of reducing latency in belt travel, because we do not depend on the bearing in the back to distribute the forces...If I keep the wooden frame (which is 99% sure as it performs well and is the cheaper option), I will make it a complete triangle to the back of the bottom frame by an adjustable threaded rod. There's a little too much flex on the top end, so this is something that I should have been doing for a lont time, but what kept me back is that the printer performs well as is. This will all change when I introduce forces by putting the bowden extruders on top...

    You could improve the Y-axis more by eliminating the bottom frame part and using my solution instead: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1072494This is designed for 450x450x3mm aluminium and a 400x400mm silicone heater, so you might be out of luck here with the glass plate, but it works wonderfully well icm kapton tape. My ABS prints are almost impossible to remove after printing, and that is WITHOUT glue, slurry or hairspray. The print bed is held between 6 printed ABS clamps (tested up to 125 degrees bed temperature), the bottom gets a new Y-belt holder which is a lot sturdier and distributes forces more evenly, reducing hopping of the print bed, and makes the belt perfectly aligned with the stepper and bearing, where the original one puts tension in Z when reaching the last 25% of tra...see more »You could improve the Y-axis more by eliminating the bottom frame part and using my solution instead: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1072494This is designed for 450x450x3mm aluminium and a 400x400mm silicone heater, so you might be out of luck here with the glass plate, but it works wonderfully well icm kapton tape. My ABS prints are almost impossible to remove after printing, and that is WITHOUT glue, slurry or hairspray. The print bed is held between 6 printed ABS clamps (tested up to 125 degrees bed temperature), the bottom gets a new Y-belt holder which is a lot sturdier and distributes forces more evenly, reducing hopping of the print bed, and makes the belt perfectly aligned with the stepper and bearing, where the original one puts tension in Z when reaching the last 25% of travel of the Y-axis in both directions. Finally, the clamps keep the print bed straight and precent it from sagging in the middle.

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  • stormychel commented on aldricnegrier's instructable Mega Prusa i32 months ago
    Mega Prusa i3

    That looks too good. Designed something like that too; never made one though...

    Awesome!

    Hi,the vibrations originate from the Y-axis, the large bed in general, and the Z-axis. You can improve quality by fixing the top of the vertical frame to the back of the horizontal frame by threaded rods. Also, this is not THE printer to make gorgeous prints, it is a printer to make large prints, especially those where strength and size are more important than visual appeal. Can post a photo of what you consider to be 'bad' quality so we can compare?

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  • stormychel commented on aldricnegrier's instructable Mega Prusa i35 months ago
    Mega Prusa i3

    The plate tends to warp from the spring pressure. This design works for the much smaller Prusa i3, but not for this big build size.

    Here is a way to use one or two Chimera hotends on your Mega Prusa i3. It is a complete X-carriage, so a little smaller and less prone to flexing than a mount.http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1655328

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  • stormychel commented on aldricnegrier's instructable Mega Prusa i35 months ago
    Mega Prusa i3

    There you go sir: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1072494

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  • stormychel commented on bushypants's instructable White van camper conversion5 months ago
    White van camper conversion

    I agree that is a lot, but I don't mind about that because it's a Toyota... :)

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  • stormychel commented on bushypants's instructable White van camper conversion5 months ago
    White van camper conversion

    Nice! Wonder how you were able to find a Hi-Ace that cheap... looking out for one for a few years now.Very well done. And your wife has a cute smile. Enjoy your adventures!

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  • stormychel commented on aldricnegrier's instructable Mega Prusa i36 months ago
    Mega Prusa i3

    I am happy to say that after 250+ hours of printing, my alternative bed support system for the Mega Prusa i3 is still going strong!

    That is a very nice looking printer... :D

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