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  • trknust commented on gomer394's instructable Home-made Anvil10 months ago
    Home-made Anvil

    The log just works as adding additional mass to the anvil as well as getting it up to where you need it. So the heavier the better. as long as the connection to the log is secure so the anvil does not fall on your foot while hitting it. My best anvil is a 14 inch round piece of 8150 that is about 5 inches thick. I hardened it with a blower and a bonfire to get it hot enough so a magnet would no longer stick to it, then a friend and I hoisted it up into a half a barrel of used motor oil. Once the fire went out, (Quite a while) and it cooled down enough to handle I welded it to a 3 inch pipe that was welded to a plow disk on the bottom. Best knife making anvil I ever had.

    Extremely high craftsmanship. This is one of the best indestructible I have read in a very long time. Should you find you need more mass (if the anvil is wandering around as you hit on it), You can put it on a stand made out of 4 x 4's glued and screwed together, standing upright. Use treated wood to keep the bugs from eating it away from you. I have lost a few stands from logs this way. You can also weld as much more steel plate to the bottom of it until you get tired of doing so and it is a heavy as you want. As long as none of the welded pieces are able to vibrate when you are done, they just become more mass to hold that hard top surface still.. You might want to screw some wheels on the side of the stand where they don't touch the ground until you lean it, then act like a 2 wheeler...

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    Extremely high craftsmanship. This is one of the best indestructible I have read in a very long time. Should you find you need more mass (if the anvil is wandering around as you hit on it), You can put it on a stand made out of 4 x 4's glued and screwed together, standing upright. Use treated wood to keep the bugs from eating it away from you. I have lost a few stands from logs this way. You can also weld as much more steel plate to the bottom of it until you get tired of doing so and it is a heavy as you want. As long as none of the welded pieces are able to vibrate when you are done, they just become more mass to hold that hard top surface still.. You might want to screw some wheels on the side of the stand where they don't touch the ground until you lean it, then act like a 2 wheeler,Just make sure the anvil is attached very well to the stand and you can stick a long piece of pipe in the hardier hole to use as a handle to move it.

    Actually, the rebound has to do with the hardness of the upper surface.The rest of the anvil just provides the inertia to hold this upper surface still. A great way to test the "Rebound" (or surface hardness) of an anvil is to take a clear plastic tube, 6 inches to a foot tall, and a ball bearing that fits freely in it., Drop the ball bearing and watch how high it bounces back. The harder the metal the better the rebound will be. The more mass you have under this surface that will not move and absorb your energy the better. Most cast anvils have a half inch or so of very hard tool or high alloy steel on the top, like 1095 or 8150, This is the material used to make car and truck leaf springs. And Yea, These same leaf springs are cheap and easy to get. They are also easy to both...

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    Actually, the rebound has to do with the hardness of the upper surface.The rest of the anvil just provides the inertia to hold this upper surface still. A great way to test the "Rebound" (or surface hardness) of an anvil is to take a clear plastic tube, 6 inches to a foot tall, and a ball bearing that fits freely in it., Drop the ball bearing and watch how high it bounces back. The harder the metal the better the rebound will be. The more mass you have under this surface that will not move and absorb your energy the better. Most cast anvils have a half inch or so of very hard tool or high alloy steel on the top, like 1095 or 8150, This is the material used to make car and truck leaf springs. And Yea, These same leaf springs are cheap and easy to get. They are also easy to both heat hot enough to flatten and shape if needed then to re-temper up to HARD before welding to the mass part of the anvil.You can make a pretty good one by taking a RR track piece, and welding plate to it all along the bottom to add weight and welding a leaf spring to the top after flattening it..

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  • Honeycomb Wood Tie, Corbata de Madera

    Very nice looking tie. I think if you were to radius the edges of all the parts or sand an angle on them, they would have more flexibility than with the edges almost sharp as it looks. I particularly like that you went to the waste pile for your materials. Very nice work.

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