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there are many ways to do this. but with the one i suggested, there is no modification to the track which is around $150. you could use much longer pieces of metal for the connector and it's fairly easy to do the work. it provides a very strong connection using the separation of the two pieces of metal. the ones that are from festool put indentations in the extrusion and make it impossible to make straight if the indentation is misaligned. going through the extrusion would work but the metal is thin and the fasteners may protrude side countersinking may not be possible. my build provides the ability to securely combine the extrusions with no movement as well as preventing the indentation issues. the surface area provided by the two pieces of metal is vastly superior to the tiny area provided by the festool part.
I post this query seeking opinions from Ubergeekseven and other track saw users.Wouldn't it be much simpler and cheaper to use the longest possible lengths of steel connectors to suit the track extrusion, and to attach by drilling countersunk holes through the track extrusion, and drilling matching threaded holes in the steel rail connectors?Connection would then be made by simply passing suitably-sized countersink headed bolts through the track rail, and tightening into the steel rail connector.I would think that 3 bolts per track rail, would give a very strong and virtually immovable connection.This would be far simpler to make and use, than Ubergeekseven's excellent elegant "DIY and Better Festool Rail Connectors".
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