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what happens if the door gets closed again (or passes the reed sensor) again before the ifttt callout is sent?
Haha! your sarcasm and humor are great! Now I must build one!
That’s awesome. So need to give this a shot sometime
it just ran 22mins later. going to see when the next one comes thru. would be nice if it was 8 seconds like you are getting. weird.
i've just tried with Stack, i get the notification of a post to stack only when i "check applet". i just setup emails and it works when i do the check applet button, i just did an actual test 15 mins ago and no email yet.
I’ll see how emails do today. I was trying to avoid doing emails because of the amount of emails I get during the day and didn’t want the notification lost in the mix
how quickly are your notifications coming in? IFTTT says it polls for triggers every 15 mins, but i have tested out my applet to notify via SMS as well as Notification thru the ifttt app and its like once per hour. thats pleny of time for someone to roll up in my place and make off with goods.
EDIT: Apparently the Maker is now called Webhooks on IFTTT
i cant seem to find Maker on IFTTT????
this is great, i think alot of people overcomplicate some of their projects JUST so they can use something like an arduino etc. i cant remember which it was but i was looking at one that really had no reason for a microcontroller at all. it was simply relay logic
whatd you use for a powersupply for this? one of those mb-102 (i think) powerboard (with 3.3 and 5v out) things or something else?
you could also get a cheap volt meter/ multimeter to find the polarity. plus, if you are on this site, reading this, it should probably be something you should have in your tool box anyways :)
Hi, im kinda stupid, so here's my question.. does this require you to run .lua file for your program? or can you run .ino file that was created in Arduino IDE for the esp8266?
great final product! even tho it may not have been as intended.
this is beautiful. just what i need another damn project. haha love it.
Cool did that and it charged up to 24v in about an hour or soft on 21. That being said the pack was plenty cool as far as i could tell but on the other hand my power supply was a tad warm haha. Maybe I'll add a cooling fan to it LOL!
Ok. My last question, I hope. HahSo I got a stronger 24v power supply. (2Amp out). It meters out at 24.2 or so, which I'm good with, But so.... I need to bypass the circuit board in the original charger right? And solder the power leads to the battery connectors directly? I just thought I'd try using the board and fried a resistor on it. Doh.
My battery holders with the "coil spring" type negative cooked too. I found the holders where the cells "snap" in more robust (link in my comment below)
This was due to the amount of current, not a short or anything
just ran the pack in my blower, it works. LOL. ran it until shut off and now going to fully charge the pack, however, with 210mA output of the charger, i suspect this will take quite some time, as the total capacity of all the cells is 2600x6______________________on my charger, there is a Green LED, i seen yours has a red. well, after about 2 hours now my voltage has not changed, it was 21.8-9 on my voltmeter after running till it stopped on the blower when i put it on, and still sits there now. am i missing something? or is this 210mA power supply just to much a sally for it? the charger still says its puttin out 24.5v when i test it without the pack on.
just wanted to add, the battery holders i mentioned below in my comment are smaller in width than the plastic holders noted in the instructable. the plastic is a little thinner, but the contacts are larger, the wire coils on my other holders fried when i tried to use this in my weed whacker.http://www.amazon.com/Frame-Black-Plastic-Battery-...here are some pics, i also drilled a couple small holes in my charger to insert my DMM probes in to check voltage. and you can see my ghetto fabulous diode boards, once i get this all firmed up i'll be 3d printing a small addition tot he top of the charger to conceal.
if your packs are like mine, you'll need to remove both. or maybe one you could shave down with a knife, but honestly. i just used a side cutter/wire cutter and snipped it off in the span of a few mins, i dont see much reason to try to save one of them.
i needed 12 of the diodes i got to drop the voltage down to 25v, actually its 24.7v when charging, however, seems as the battery holder isnt robust enough to hand the current output, coils on the grounds cooked and barely makes good contact because of how tight the cells fit, my pack voltage reads 0v after being on the charger for an hour, but each cell reads 3.7v so im leaning at the battery holders as being the issue here.i went and ordered this style of cell holder... http://www.amazon.com/Frame-Black-Plastic-Battery-Holder/dp/B00S4YLG34/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1465170875&sr=8-16&keywords=18650+uxcell+3
so, i was looking at my single source charger, the 'wall wart' says its 24v output. and with just a few resistors inside and a diode or 2., in theory, cant i just bypass those resistors and connect the wart directly to the battery pack without modification? (i wanna put a meter on the output to verifiy voltage yet, but theres nothing i see in there thats going to UP the voltage)im going to run the charger off a timer to make it turn off after an hour so i dont forget to unplug and burn down my shed, LOL.
im curious, what is the amp output on your charging power supply (wall wart)mines 210mA@24VDC.
to get my packs to fit, i just had to snip off the center screw holes in the original battery casing.
i was looking at 50v 1A Rectifier diodes, are those sufficient?