Hello, I want to make a circuit which increases the amperage of a 5 volts coming out of a battery the voltage may decrease but the ampearage should be high or increased! Thank's for helping Samad Haque
Asked by ubdussamad 5 years ago
Again, another silly question. A lot of my projects are going to need batteries (as they will be used in props). I have a decent understanding of how electricity works and all that, as I have done quite a few things with it from the ground up (that is, I didn't copy a pre-existing set of plans). But with all the stuff I'm planning to do, I'm having issues keeping up with it all, mainly due to the fact that I am a tad unsure on amperage draw and amperage supply. For the sake of understanding for myself, lets say I try and run an arduino nano using a battery pack that spits out 12v/2a. Will the arduino only take what it needs, or will it try and take all of what it is given and 'burn' up. Alterativly, if I were to use a 5v/1a peltier element, will it also only pull what it needs, or will it burn up? I would assume the peltier would just burn, as it has no way to limit what it's pulling, while the arduino will regulate what it's getting. Thanks in advance!
Asked by DoctorWoo 3 years ago
I have a power source tha gives 24v and 10amps. How i can regulate the amperage to 1A even lowering the voltage? (ideal would be 12v and 1a, but i dont really care about voltage). thank you for your help :)
Asked by Peris The Majestic 3 years ago
I am working on a scientific theory and I need a little help. I have 2 car batteries in series to create 24v need to power an electric motor. The motor is 14.5 amps and I need a way to control the amperage from the car batteries to the motor. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Posted by Ice Dragon 5 years ago
Before I begin: yes, I should know this already, but I'm really sleep deprived right now, and therefore slightly muzzy on my electronics knowledge... My circuit has two loops running in parallel off one, limited, 18v power supply: [*] Loop 1 requires the majority of the supply's power to run [*] Loop 2 is simply a 7805 voltage regulator supplying 5v to an analog input on an Arduino, so needs almost no current running through it. [*] when Loop 1 and Loop 2 are both active, Loop 1 does not get enough power. if I place a resistor in Loop 2, in series with the 7805, will it increase the amperage to Loop 1? I think the answer is yes, but, once again, I'm MASSIVELY sleep deprived. any help is appreciated.
Posted by gschoppe 9 years ago
Asked by theVader75 7 years ago
Hello guys, i need help with one of my projects.I have make an DIY Keyboard with neopixel at any button,it works perfect but i have problem with power. i have 2 usb from keyboard one for arduino and one for keyboard.if i load #define BRIGHTNESS 20 all is good but if i load #define BRIGHTNESS 80 the usb connection is lost and arduino start to lag.this is amperage problem and the question is if any1 know how i can take that usb output from pc and make it with circuit to higher amperage.
Posted by NetariaT 4 months ago
So as most of you know, I'm working on making a hydroxy booster for my car. That's not too hard. I'd like to build some sort of microcontroller-device-thingy that would regulate how much amperage the generator draws, based on the load required by the car, so as not to draw too much. Is this something for adruino or..? I'm kind of clueless on this one so.... PLZ HELP!! I'm fairly unaccomplished in programing, but I could learn something if it's simple enough.
Posted by KentsOkay 8 years ago
While shopping for a new notebook charger for my son's computer I discovered that the new replacement charger produces 19 volts and 3.95 amps. The original charger is 19 volts and 2.65 amps. Should I be cautious of the new charger?
Asked by blkhawk 6 years ago
I want to connect a couple of computer fans and a peltier cooler to some solar cells, but I want to keep the amount of electronics to a minimum (for the sake of KISS). Assuming the fans and peltier are rated to run at 12V, and I connect the solar cells to provide 12V at peak, will I be able to leave it connected all the time, i.e. when it's night time there is no electricity being provided, maybe in the late morning there is half the electricity, and in the afternoon sun full power? I guess a simpler way to phrase my question is: Can these devices be run with much lower voltage or amperage than they are rated for?
Posted by littleb28 6 years ago
I've been having trouble with LEDs. I'm running 18 blue ultrabright in parallel. The specs for volts and amperage are as follows: 3.6v typ 4.5v max 20ma typ 30ma max Each LED has a 220 ohm resistor which was calculated for a 9v source with each LED at 4v, 25ma. This seems well within their range. But, in about a year and a half's time, I've had about 25% burnout. Most of the others are showing signs of intensity and spectrum degradation. Any thoughts as to the cause of this?
Posted by hexedene 10 years ago
Hi Guys, Recently I planned on making an portable phone charger the classical way, with a car phone charger. But then I came across the problem of choosing a battery. The 8 AA batteries way is not economical, as I will be charging a Sony Xperia Z1 and it will drain the batteries in one charge. The 8 AA rechargable battery method will be better but will set me back about $20 so that's a no. If I use a 9 volt battery it will charge the phone 20%. The final and the most stupidest method is to connect 10 9v batteries so that I get 9v 4 amps but that will be too bulky. Lithium batteries are useless as I will get the required amperage but the voltage will be too low and the other ones will once again set me back too much. So the only way is to use 8 AA batteries but every phone charge will cost me approx. $1. Is there any other cheap way or 8 AA batteries it is? Thanks in advance :).
Asked by The Prickly Potato 3 years ago
If a power bank claims that each port on it can charge a device at 2 amps, if I connect both ports together in parallel, am I able to get 4 amps? Or would it be just like trying to double the voltage off of the same battery, and not work? I have an Intel Compute Stick, which requires 3 amps to run. However, battery banks that provide more than 2.1 amps per port are super rare. Would it work to wire them in parallel?
Asked by RocketPenguin 1 year ago
Hello instructioners, So i am working on a PCB to use my XBOX 360 power supply as a standard 12volt 16 amp without hacking it apart. I've taken the female plug from a dead Xbox and I've recreated the layout in ExpressPCB. my only issue is being that its 16 amps @ 12volts is the trace widths to hold that much power are ridiculously wide we are talking 7mm or there abouts. I used several different online calculators to determine trace width. My question is.. how small can i get away with for traces and still get 16amps.. is there a way of bridging the front and back side of a 2side PCB to allow for more amperage on smaller traces? i am really at a loss here. since my PCB is set at 38mm by 38mm and the connector size is 27mm long by 23mm wide. with 7mm wide traces i can't connect all the power pins together and all the ground pins together and route them out. Now i realize the 16amps is max draw but i'd like to plan for a max draw situation that way i feel confident enough to not have to check it all the time to make sure its not melting. Below is an image of the current board in Express PCB the labeled Thru-hole are connections i will need to make for this all to work. the other remaining holes are for mounting the female jack securely. The three yellow boxed connections are 12v+ The three greyed boxed connections are gnd ENG is bridged to +5 to make the XBOX PSU provide 12v
Posted by jgosselin 6 years ago
After cleaning my drawer i've noticed that alot of my chargers these days are using a usb port to charge their device, so i came with an idea to create a universal port that will charge all my devices so i got to thinking First i would buy a AC/DC power plug(I live in Australia) to reduce the current to 5V @ 2.5Amps, Link : http://bit.ly/L89ez5 I was planning to strip the end port so i'd have a positive and negative wire, which would eventually lead to the + and - power wires on a female USB port. However i came to 2 problems with this. 1. Power Amperage/Voltage Since it supplys 2.5Amps i found out this would be too much for some of my devices, after researching on the internet(Correct me if i'm wrong) I'm led to believe that with the way DC currents work, devices will only draw the amount needed, however my concern is that some devices sometimes make use of the extra amps and allow themselves to charge faster at the expense of a shorter battery life. To combat this i thought up of using a rotary switch linked with different amounts of resistors to allow me to select how many amps the port will give. However my first problem is that after more researching that i can't simply use normal resistors to reduce the amps without affecting the Voltage. My aim amps choices are: 500mA(iTouch 4g) 1000mA(Mobile Wifi device) 1500mA(Playstation Vita) 2000mA(Just in case) 2100mA(iPad 2) How would i achieve this? what resistors would i need to buy/how many? I read something about some forumla but couldn't find what exactly it is. 2. The Data Pins During my research i found out my PSVita is picky with its USB Port choice, its one of many few devices that like to be charged using a dummy port, In which i found out a Dummy port has the Data pins shorted, if they arn't shorted then the device will refuse to charge from the port. At first i thought it would be simple, i'd just have a switch that would short pins when i needed it. But then i realized what about my normal devices? What would i have to put between the the data pins to allow normal devices to charge normally. Any and all advice would be appreciated. This is what i had planned: (MS Paint!)
Asked by ultimatenoob 5 years ago
In order to build a welder using 120 volts of AC, what should be the voltage and amperage rating of the transformer?
Asked by blkhawk 5 years ago
Basically what the title says.
Asked by Zem 8 years ago
I was wondering if the amperage ratings of devices, say, for instance, circuit breakers, add in parallel or series. For example, if I hooked up 5 20 Amp circuit breakers in parallel, would it take 100 amps to trigger them all? Or would it take 100 amps with them in series to trip them all? I'm not sure about this because I have used two 1 amp solid state relays in series to switch loads well above 1 amp, but it seems more logical for them to only do that if they were connected in parallel. Also, whatever the answer to my question is, does it apply to all devices? Circuit breakers, Triacs, etc? Thanks!
Asked by mad magoo 8 years ago
Hello, for a DIY project i plan on taking on soon, i need to measure amperage, and i have been looking for a digital ammeter, as the analogue one shave been to bulky to use. i need to know, if this ammeter will be able to read amperage at 3v-5v http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120686900155&ssPageName=ADME:X:eRTM:AU:1123 it says it needs 6v -15v input, but this is just to power it, and isnt what is being measured. i need to know, do ammeters need a current with perticular voltage to properly measure the amperage? ive seen others that operate on 0-30vdc, and others that must have 12v or 24v, and the rest dont say at all how they work.
Asked by oldmanbeefjerky 6 years ago
I've been working alot with capacitors recently at a voltage of 330v or so. I've been using this cap bank to discharge into whatever I feel like. Wires (to watch them pop), cds (to "erase" them), etc. Anyway, one problem I've been having is the switches. I flip the switch, it discharges the capacitors and it should work fine. The only problem is the switches are only worth one shot. And I'm using the biggest I can find. (Rated for 15 Amps). I realize that the capacitors are discharging instantly, and the amperage is probably higher then what its rated for, but I expected to get more then one shot out of it. Any suggestions besides a bigger switch? (I've considered using a series of relays for each capacitor, but that gets expensive.) Thanks!
Asked by transistorguy 6 years ago
Designing a transformer, currently i have a 250mm by 250mm window for wire and interchangeable coils, some only a few turns, but will leakage flux cause large power loss?, or will it just limmit current, i read some stuff and im not really sure, i mean i don't want to start building it if it won't work
Asked by pwnag3 6 years ago
I have built a little power board which consists of a double plug adapter which plugs into a mains supply in the house, I then want to be able to plug in an appliance, say a fridge and see how many amps it draws - I want to be able to make this all fit into a briefcase so that it is portable - I can do all of that but just need to know how to put an AMP meter in between the power supply and the double plug where I will plug the appliance in. I realize I could do this with a clamp meter (which I have) but I have a specific reason to do this without a clamp meter
Asked by enerwise 9 years ago
If I have a device that is rated at max 17 amps and 31.5 volts (but capable of operating at any lower amperage or voltage) and I want to run it off a 12v 7amp circuit, will that overload my circuit? Do I need to put a resistor in to limit the load? What if I need to bring the amperage down to 3.47 amps off the 7 amp circuit... do I need to put in a resistor then, or will my power supply just automatically supply only what it can?
Asked by eblingdp 3 years ago
Is there a way to find the wattage rating of resistors and such mathematically? or is it something that has to be tested in real life? I have quite a few resistors that I'd like to use, but don't know the wattage rating of them. I only know their resistance, and I could calculate other values if I put voltage across them with a multimeter. Also, what type of variable resistor would you recommend to control a 12 VDC device that draws 12 amps?
Asked by tylervitale 6 years ago
My issue: Have multiple LED drivers, (high power LED instructable) and connected the wrong one. The LEDs are not dead. My LEDs are rated at 9-12v, 950mA and I have sets of 4 in series hooked up to a 36v power supply. The driver I used has a .3ohm resistor on it. so it's putting out ~1.3A The LEDs should have burned up. Since the driver eats up a little of the voltage, each LED is getting ~8.75v. Is this why they haven't burned up? Thanks!!
Posted by thestip 1 year ago
I had this great idea to turn old cell phone chargers into DC extension cords. Cell phone wires are nice because of their curly spring wires. I worried the wire gauge might not be large enough to handle my project. Here is my question. On websites that list current ratings for standard wire gauges, they list current limits but not voltage limits. Why is this? If a 22 gauge wire can handle .92 amps does it really not make a difference whether it is 1 volts or a million volts? Why don't they use watts to list how much power a wire can handle. Watts take both volts and amps into account. Another mystery is that my DC plugs are rated for 6-10 volts. Why are the plugs rated for volts but not amps? What would happen if I used these plugs for 4 volts, which I plan to do. Thanks -Jacob
Asked by Noblenutria 6 years ago
Hi! I was browsing through an electronics retailer website looking for components to buy (particularly a LED) and i was wondering what the amperage rating of each component meant Does it mean: 1. the current flow across this component shouldn't be more than the amperage rating as it will cause damage? 2. or the current flow across this component should be equal to this amperage rating? please help me I'm really confused :(
Posted by La Tour Rouge 8 years ago
I'm using a peltier plate and some CPU fans to make a micro fridge for my car. for testing purposes, I'm going to need a pretty beefy power supply. because the plate draws four watts at twelve volts, I need a supply that can push out around three and a half to four amps. however, I don't want to go out and buy something, because I have a very limited amount of money. what I do have, however, is a large amount of leftover twelve volt regulators from an earlier project, rated to work with up to one amp. will connecting several of these in parallel (maybe five of them, just to be sure) be enough to reduce a thirteen and a half volt power supply with 3.9 amps of current to twelve volts? this is the closest I can get to a twelve volt supply with the materials I have, and I already have a heatsink for the regulators (I tore apart a dead computer power supply).
Asked by codongolev 7 years ago
Hi there, I figured Id post here because I have no one to ask and answers aren't obvious from googling. The connection is as follows: - (0 Volts to 40 Volts open voltage) Windmill to a 12 Volt Battery. - (0 Volts to 20 Volts open voltage) Solar Panel to a 12 Volt Battery. A solar panel has an open voltage @ 19.95 Vdc and delivering 0 amps. The panel is not connected. Then I connect the panel to the 12 Volt Battery. Now, the solar panel now shows a voltage of 14 V and delivering 2 amps into the battery. That makes sense to me. When connecting the solar panel to the battery, the system is now "on load", so the voltage drops. But because the voltage drops, the amperage is being sent into the battery. ---- Now, The windmill has an open voltage between 0 and 40 vdc. On average it shows 20 volts when spinning. 40 volts when its faster. Its known that it takes 14.1 volts to start charging a battery. So, now lets assume the windmill is spinning @ 40 volts open voltage. I connect the windmill to the battery. For under a second, I see amperage go from the windmill to the battery. The amperage amount is 3 amps for 1/4 a second, 0.6 2/4 of a second, then eventually 0. The voltage after connecting the windmill to the battery is the same as the battery voltage. In my eyes, its not charging the battery, because amperage dropped to 0. As a side note, as soon as I connect the windmill to the battery, the generator/turbine, also slows down in speed. I am also curious to know why it is slowing down as well. Anyone have any ideas? - U
Asked by useful1 4 years ago
Hi! I would like to make, buy, or find, a low voltage high amperage transformer to power an electrolosis cell. I like playing with the hydrogen-oxygen gas produced. From what I have read, I only need about 1.8 volts for electrolosis, so I'd like a circuit or transformer that could take the power from preferable a 9 volt battery and convert it to 1.8v at as high an amperage as I can get. Thanks : )
Asked by fozzy13 9 years ago
Previously I asked this question, except I wanted to build an electromagnetic dent puller. But no one gave me specific ideas or instruction of how it could be done, instead everyone told me different ways to pull the dent out, or how the metal looks.. Anyway. I have a lot of copper wire. And I have a bunch of magnets and ferrous cores, iron rods.. etc. I am wondering if I can create a very powerful burst of magnetic energy with a few winding's of copper around a ferrous core. I'm talking enough to push two very heavy objects apart, such as a television or couch... 1) Copper will be wound around about 40-60 times 2) High amperage discharge from capacitor bank 3) Possible explosion or melting wire? Thank you... again
Posted by Justdoofus 5 years ago
This project started as this instructables project https://www.instructables.com/id/Arduino-Controlled-Robotic-Drum However, instead I'm using a relay board (sainsmart 8 channel) and arduino to switch power from 4 separate wall plug DC power supplies to the individual actuators. Each power supply is connected to 2 channels on the relay, powering 1 actuator each. These are the car door lock actuators Working voltage: DC12V Current consumption: 0.15A-2.22A I am using 1 x 12v, 4.5A power supply, and 3 x 9v 1.5A power supplies (since this is what was needed for the original instructables project) However, I'm noticing that the actuators will sometimes not fire when the circuit is connected, and they seem to be limited as to how quickly they can fire. This is more of a problem with the 9v than the 12v power. The 12v, when supplying power to two actuators at the same time, will not work. I don't understand how the instructables project seemed to have no issue powering these actuators with three 9v 1.5 supplies powering 12 of these actuators (with shields that can only output max 1.2A per actuator). So that got me thinking that the motor shield is doing some sort of power regulating for the actuators. I think a single actuator, unregulated, is gobbling up all the power to the point that the power supply is shutting off, or at least has no more power to supply to anything else. Q: - Do I need to build some sort of regulator for each motor to limit it's power consumption? If so, what kind of regulator? - Should I just increase power supplies to higher Amps until it's not a problem? Any help is very much appreciated.
Asked by Trrl 1 year ago
I'm using a 555 timer for a robot, and i was wondering, is a lithium polymer battery too much amperage for the 555 timer? because when i use it, the 555 timer warms up, to a point where i cannot touch it without getting burned instantly. If so, how can i reduce the amperage, so that it can be used with the 555 timer? I'm using a 7.4 volt, 1000mAh battery, it was originally used for a helicopter, but i re purposed it for my robot...
Asked by Chowmix12 8 years ago
I am having a strange problem on a USB peripheral.... it is a digital radiography sensor that overheats. I believe it may be due to the power supply to the motherboard, but I don't know for sure. I am ASKING FOR YOUR HELP in reasoning out what may be the cause. Anyone with computer/electronics experience, PLEASE HELP!!! I was told that my power supply is too low voltage, and that current is going up in the USB peripheral causing it to heat up. I always thought V=IR means that if voltage drops so does current. But in other places I read that if voltage drops, current goes up so that the wattage/power usage stays the same according to P=VI. So which is it? V=IR or P=VI ? If my power supply has too low voltage, will the current in the device increase to compensate? Or will it just have a lower current? Does it depend on the circuit and the exact electronics in the USB peripheral? Here is my SETUP. It is SIMPLE: Antec AR-350 power supply connected to a motherboard Asus P5N7A-VM in an ATX case. All I have otherwise is a SATA hard drive and a SATA DVD-ROM in there. That's it! Problem started to happen about 1.5 years after I got the computer. That is why I am thinking maybe it is the power supply, or maybe it is the motherboard? The computer works fine in every other way! It uses Windows XP and has a wireless keyboard/mouse which also works fine. BIOS settings screen Hardware Monitor shows voltage for USB 5v reading about 4.9v, within tolerance. However, one of my USB peripherals is a digital xray sensor. It works ok a few times, then it starts to overheat and fail. This only happens on this computer. When I use another computer (like a laptop) with the same USB hardware it functions ok and never overheats. I don't have any problems on the other computer, even thought I am using the same software/drivers. I bought a different ATX case with a new power supply, and just moved the motherboard, HD and DVD over. Now the motherboard BIOS shows under Hardware Monitor that it is getting 5.2 V instead of 5v, so it is higher! Also the 12 V is higher (around 12.2v) and same for the 3.3V. All the voltages are HIGHER! So I have yet to test this new configuration with the USB peripheral sensor. Could the motherboard be faulty? I did notice the motherboard looks "curved" with the area under the CPU sort of bulging out. However, with this motherboard you will see there is a huge heat-sink/fan that gets clamped over the CPU and that may be bending the board. Keep in mind the board works perfectly otherwise, so I am wondering WHY it would only affect USB for this one peripheral and not for the keyboard and mouse? Maybe the circuitry on the keyboard/mouse is more tolerant to low voltage? Would appreciate your thoughts please.
Posted by edy 6 years ago
I see all these altoids amp circuits, and i want to build a small amp circuit into my backpack, but i just wanna know, what the hell is actually being raised? amperage going up? voltage going up? ohms going down? im confused!
Asked by IncrediblyCondensedBlackMatter 8 years ago
I've searching for a dimmer that its flicker won't be visible. This dimmer is the one that I came up with It claims to be 3-35V, and 90W MAX, but also 5A MAX. Does this mean that the maximum power that it can supply is either 5A or 90W? That means that for 3V it would be able to supply 15W (5A), and for 35V it would be able to supply 2.5A (90W). Am I correct? Is it the first one that reaches MAX the maximum? I'm going to use it for 12V. That means that I can use 5A max, right? Thank You!
Asked by Yonatan24 1 year ago
Hey, I'm working on a wireless power transfer system and I'm planning on running it on 12vdc with a 2n3904 transistor, but my power supply supplies 2 amps. Now the question is, will the transistor draw only the current that my transmitter coils draw, or will it simply draw it all for supplying the coils. I have not yet determined how many turns or what resistance they have yet, I'm still in early stages. I just don't want to ruin one of my few transistors. I know the absolute maximum current this specific transistor can handle is 200ma.
Posted by DecemberRain01 2 years ago
Hello All, I am using an 1KVA Voltage stabilizer for my Fridge. The power quality is really poor here in India, and these things are mandatory. I learnt the lesson hard way :-(.... Well that aside, i would like to know what would be the power loss or Extra consumption these devices use when regulating power. Actually,i could use a general lecture on how Stabilizers work!
Posted by bhvm 5 years ago
If I hooked a 4v 4amp battery up to 2 devices which each require 4v and 4amps, will the amperage supplied to each device be equal divided? Or will it just not work?
Asked by nepheron 8 years ago