y deck is 12 foot by 12 foot and the sun really heats up the house thruogh the sliding glass door.
Asked by stickman1106 9 years ago
y deck is 12 foot by 12 foot and the sun really heats up the house thruogh the sliding glass door.
Asked by stickman1106 9 years ago
Hello, I'm spending all of my money for product, I bake pastries, but when the sun starts to go down, or up depending on which side of the street I'm on, I could really use awning I could put up myself. Make myself. Any ideas. I just don't want them to poke anyone in the eye. I could really use ideas, thank you sooooo much.
Posted by EvaS4 3 years ago
We have an overhead canopy that need to be lifted 3 feet into the air, and then let down to its origianal position at the end of the day. it now goe's up and down with a smaller tube within a larger tube and pins put in position to hold it at the right height. the size of the canopy is 4' x 12' and weighs approximately 150 lbs, as the supports are made from aluminum. As we are not getting any younger it is taking its toll putting it up and down manually. If there any way that we could re place the smaller inner tube with some type of gas assist cylynder that would take it up and down mechanically? Imagine having to lift a box .,and then down again straight up and down. Any replies would be appreciated. Thank you. JOJO
Asked by jojofishjr 8 years ago
I actually have two of these and have repaired the frame before but this time, after a heavy rain damaged the Gazebo it was taken apart before I got to it. The gazebo is 10 X 15 feet and is a popup there's no manufacturer name but it's style number is 5JGZ5048. http://www.mygofer.com/garden-oasis-large-pop-up-gazebo-15-x/p-07110190000P is a picture and place to purchase the gazebo. I have looked this up on line and amazingly I can get a replacement awning but there's no information on the frame. What I need is, photos and measurements of the outside and inside struts. Photos of the placement of any specialty brackets etc. I need information as to how the struts are put together, like if the center of the struts, when assembled, cause the holes of the two to be off set from each other or line up. I have tried a number of ways to reassemble the frame and nothing is working out. I am sure it's because there's a certain way to place each strut so that they works with the raising of the frame and the center poles for the roof. Thank you for any help you can give me.
Asked by rick1216 2 years ago
I have 6 wooden windows in an 82 year old basement and one rotted and fell out of the casement. How do I build another one awning style?
Asked by lindybowers 6 years ago
Okay. So.I dunno, guys. I keep hearing "Linux this, Linux that", but I really don't know. It's not working for me so far. And I've been at it since March.Recently, I made a LiveUSB of Fedora 9 (I'm not allowed to install Linux to HDD until I buy my own PC). I experienced problems with the LiveUSB; mainly, the "persistent overlay" was not being recognized. After more than several attempts, I got it to work.Now I'm trying to install AWN. I opened up Terminal, typed in su, and then typed in this:yum install avant-window-navigatorand it installed. It didn't say anything about errors or anything. So I went to Applications > Accessories and sure enough, there it was. I clicked it. I saw a window flash at the top left of my screen, and then nothing. Three more tries. Same reaction each time. Now the way I understand it, I need Compiz in order for AWN to work. I though Fedora 9 had Compiz. Do I need to enable a setting or something?Does anyone have any idea what I'm doing wrong?
Posted by Labot2001 10 years ago
Hi , I hope there is help here? I have wracked my brain s out !!! I built an awning off the house - Well I didn't ...a tradie did... but to my specs..and the awning is useless as it needs sides... so I want to put up bistro (Plastic ) blinds... I think the weight of them will be too heavy .. Or when I screw into a hollow beam I will have no way of stopping the beam from stretching as it's has thin and light sides... So I need help Do I go through to the other side of the beam to put into place a ???? Maybe I want a strong metal sleeve that will enable me to screw ? bolt? attach these blinds?? Any ideas? Thanks heaps if you read this ....and have any ideas...!
Posted by screamingjet 5 years ago
I live in a semi-rural area. We are hours from a decent motorway, but hip-deep in caravan parks. Given the UK law that limits trailers to 50mph, I am generally disapproving of anything towed. However, this trailer tent designed by Axel Enthoven is a thing of beauty and luxury. The Opera trailer tent has features including central heating, teak flooring (and a veranda!), ceramic toilet, electrically adjustable twin beds (which can be joined into a double), kitchen sink (of course), onboard water boiler (which supplies a fountain?), fridge and low-energy LED lighting “from awning to floor” (yes there are uplights!). Unfortunately, beauty has a price - €24,000 puts it in the price-range of campers with engines and no restriction to 50mph... Your Suite in Nature via Notcot.
Posted by Kiteman 7 years ago
On my way to work this morning I passed an amazing sight: a fountain of water shooting 50 feet into the air. A fire hydrant had come off (I wish I'd seen that bit) and the water from the main was spouting to the sky. I've often been vaguely impressed with the concept of water pressure in cities - it just comes out the faucet! What is pushing it? You used to have to pump water to get it Up to where you want it. This sight really brings that home, the massive pressures running underneath the streets in modern cities. It's highly impressive. When I first arrived there was simply the waterspout, but fire trucks and firemen arrived very shortly and started playing around in the water. One almost had his hat knocked off by it. It wasn't clear what they were doing in there, and I don't know how they were planning to get it under control again. The grocery store on the corner lost its awnings from the weight of water falling on them.
Posted by rachel 10 years ago
I want to design a simple outdoor wheelchair that reclines flat to become a bed. This is for my disabled brother. Unfortunately, I can't weld, so extra points if it is made out of some parts that don't need welding. I want to take my brother camping, but he tires easily and needs to lie down. I am going to use a small pop-up awning with sides to create a little bedroom for him when he needs to rest, but I need help coming up with this chair design. Seems simple but all sorts of practical issues are stumping me. It should go over typical campground terrain. I could buy "Wheeleez" fat tires for a million dollars but my bank account does not allow that. Likewise pre-made wheelchairs that become beds are exorbitant. Thank you for any help you can provide!?
Asked by cjkip 6 years ago
Hi, my name is Michael and I'm from Austria. Nowadays we have about 38°C (100°F). We have a Terrace which has a area of 33m² (355.21ft²). This terrace has a roof, which consists of polycarbonate plates. We have the problem that it is very hot on our terrace although we use awnings. Now I've discovered some ideas how i could cool down our terrace. The first one could be a water cycle, with a container and a pump. Then the pump could pump up the water. The water flows down the roof and flows back into the container. I don't know if this is a efficient way to cool down our terrace? The 2nd possibility I discovered is water mist. I found this video to show the principle: http://youtu.be/bYTcMCm2zWg I don't know if it is possible to sit underneath the water mist without getting wet?? I just want some Ideas and oppinions. Maybe some of you have realized their own cooling system? I know how to program an Arduino and other microcontrollers and I am able to develop electronic circuits. So I think i have the basic knowledge for building such a system, but I can't decide which principle i should use? I am sorry for my bad english skills, but i hope that you can understand me. Thanks in advance Mike
Posted by MiKe1753 5 years ago
This Saturday, October 11th, 2008, we will be having an open-house "inauguration" at the Steampunk Laboratory's new facility at the Millworks, at 2034 Leonard Ave, Columbus, OH, 43219.The Steampunk Laboratory is the name of an educational program to teach science and engineering through art, which we have been developing over the past year or so. We are now expanding that idea into a community fabrication and education center, and we have recently (i.e. last week) "graduated" from the Milo Arts Center, where we began, and are now located in a stand-alone brick building at another artists' community called The Millworks. Although we won't yet be quite operational (we're aiming for January '09 to start offering workshops and memberships, and the cnc is going through an iteration), we -are- going to have a little party commemorating moving into the new place, and are eager to invite interested people, communicate our goals, and share ideas. (But mostly it's an excuse for a deadline to get ourselves cleaned up and presentable as soon as possible! ;-)We'll have snacks, drinks, and music from 7pm to 11pm or so, this Saturday. Our building is located at the Millworks, whose address is 2034 Leonard Ave. The address of our building is 2038 Leonard, but it's tucked away inside the art community. To find it, turn into the driveway at the Millworks and park in the paved lot. Then walk past a large building on your left; turn left onto the gravel lot, and then turn right past the warehouse; our brick building is tucked in the corner beneath the wooden awning. Please feel free to bring kids, interested friends, and something to eat or drink if you like (but not necessary).http://www.SteampunkLaboratory.com
Posted by bowakowa 9 years ago
Hi all, I have been searching for ways to make an easy and cheap automatic curtains/blinds controller but have not really seen any that actually meets my basic needs but also does not require lots of complex IC components. Please let me know of any instructables I may have missed. So here is my design - hoping everyone can help to validate it and discuss design faults and improvements (mainly to reduce costs). The Requirements: 1) Costs: Total costs should be around $20 per curtain. I think professional systems cost about $100-$200 per curtain controller. 2) Parts: Easy to build and put together with some soldering. Parts are easy to find/buy or substitute for similar components. 3) Function: At least 2 buttons. One UP button and one DOWN button for manual triggering (wireless buttons would be better). 4) Function: One press of Button A fully opens the blinds with the motor stopping at the correct place to avoid damage to the blinds or the motor. The opposite goes for Button B to close the blinds. 5) Function: The controller should never be able to open or close the blinds past the normal safe positions, causing damage. 6) Optional Parts: Complete system is small enough to fit inside the blinds/curtain's cover / awning. I think it should be easy to fit in most covers anyway. Briefly how it should all work: With the curtains rolled up, you would press button A, which would roll the curtains DOWN, then stopping at the correct place (covering the whole window). Pressing button A once again would not do anything or further roll DOWN the curtains. Then, press button B and the curtains should start rolling UP constantly, stopping just before it gets to the top. Pressing button B once again would not do anything or further roll UP the curtains, avoiding damage to curtains or motor. Design/diagram below (sorry for the poor details, i used MS-Visio to draw it out). The Parts/Components (under $30 at time or writing): 1) 5-10kg servo $7 (using 5volts) that can be power in forward or reverse spin. Slow spinning speeds would be best for safe and low power operation? 2) Some hand made adapter to firmly connect the servo motor shaft to the curtain's shaft to spin/roll the curtains ($0 free). 3) A wireless power relay $14, (12 volts) with 2 channels and "constant on power" functions (links below). I guess wired relays are fine, but I would want to hide the wires to the buttons. 4) 2x 5V regulators $2, to reduce the 12v power from the Relay to 5v for the Servo. 5) 2x Magnetic or reed switches $5 (12 volts) that is Normally On (normally connected). 6) 4x Rare earth magnets $1 to work with the reed switches. These are small, thin and easy to hide, but are very strong. 7) A power source for the relay, 4x 18650 batteries?. Should be 12 volts or depending on what relay & servo combo you use. (links below) Construction: 1) Make an adapter to connect the servo to the blind's shaft. I dont have a picture of one or the steps for this as every servo & curtain combo situation will be different, but im sure it should be simple to make. Fail or malfunction of this part would cause too much damage to anything really? 2) For best practice, use temporary wiring to connect all the components together as per diagram and test out the functions as if they were installed in their places and on the blinds. 3) Glue or connect the adapter, curtain shaft and servo shaft together. Also mount the servo firmly somewhere, on the wall or curtain cover so it doesnt end up spinning itself. 4) Position both magnetic switches on the wall, behind and just under the curtain's roll of fabric as per diagram. A lot of testing and playing around will be needed to create the correct gap between each switch and curtain. Switch A (Limiter A) will be the most difficult to position. It will be used to stop the servo from rolling the blinds too far down. This means the magnet glued on the blinds is up high on top, which will be rolled inside layers of fabric and may spin close to Limiter A multiple times which may cut the circuit/power earlier than intended as the magnet spins round and round. Limiter B should be easier. 5) Wire the 2 channels on the relay to the Servo and the Limiters. The 5V regulators goes between both channels of the Relay's power OUT and the Servo's two power Inputs. Screw or glue the relay to somewhere firm like inside the curtain covers. 6) Glue the rare earth magnets to the desired positions, or sew them on if you dont trust the glue. The magnets will physically cut the power to the servo by activating the Magnetic reed switches, so using 2 magnets would be even better, just incase the servo you use spins really fast or has a lag. 7) Connect the relay to the battery/power cable. Of course double check all is good before adding power. In my case, I will have 12v power cables available to use. 8) Put the curtain cover back on to hide everything. Hopefully you did not create creases in the curtain fabric where the magnets are glued. Oh and maybe remove the curtain draw strings (used to pull up & down the curtains) to avoid breaking the Servo? Detailed explanation of how it should work: - The blinds are fully rolled up. - Press Button A once, Relay provides power to Channel A, Servo spins clockwise constantly (rolling down the curtain). - Servo's positive line A is cut (circuit open) when Magnet A rolls out and comes close to Limiter A. Relay is still outputting power to Channel A but no power goes to the Servo. - Press Button A once again, the Servo should not do anything. The Relay should then stop outputting power to Channel A. - Further presses of Button A does nothing but toggles Channel A's power on and off. Magnet A & Limiter A still disabling power to the Servo. - Press Button B once, Relay provides power to Channel B, Servo spins anti-clockwise constantly (rolling UP the curtain). - Servo's positive line B is cut when Magnet B rolls up close to Limiter B. Relay is still outputting power to Channel B. - Press Button B once again, the Servo should not do anything. - With this "latch" functionality of the Relay (see link below and product details), it is also possible to stop the curtains mid way, which might be useful for some people, i dont think i will use it. For future upgrades: I think it would be possible to control this controller from a PC program, by directly connecting IO cables to the Relay's button A & B on the PCB. Sending pulses from the PC as though it were remote button presses. Or just bring the remote to the PC's IO ports and connect there. Would anyone disagree? Links: - An example Servo: http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_nkw=High+torque+Metal+Gear+RC+Servo - The wireless Relay: http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?rt=nc&LH_PrefLoc=2&_nkw=2CH%2012V%20Wireless%20Relay - The 5v Regulators (L7805): http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?rt=nc&LH_PrefLoc=2&_nkw=5v%20regulators&_fln=1&_trksid=p3286.c0.m283 - The magnetic reed switches: http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_nkw=reed+switch - The rare earth magnets: http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_nkw=rare+earth+magnets+n38 - Design/diagram: http://i50.tinypic.com/118emas.jpg
Asked by sonhy 6 years ago