COMMUNITY

-update-cant believe the attention this has got. either way i got my braces off...in august of 2008. Wednesday before school started. Finally.straight teeth finally, and i can eat! so great.either way it still took like 5 or 6 years, too long.Im just wearing an invisible retainer(behind my teeth, its glued in, its just a wire). Cant even feel it.Just think- if you have braces- how good it will feel when you get them off...OK, I have braces, meant to correct the spaces that were in between my teeth, and also, to move my lower jaw forward. I've had them for...5 YEARS! Needless to say, they JUST finished closing most of the gaps(again, after 5 years), and are working on moving my jaw forward. So, like almost every person I see with braces (well, some), I got rubber bands. I actually had a choice between them and the Herbst appliance. I picked the herbst-y thing, but they didn't have a part...so, blah blah blah, long story short, I got rubberbands until the part came in. So the part came in today, and I went for them to put it on, and after about an extremely boring hour, they were on. Anyway, It wasn't until then that I realized what (Insert bad word(s) here) things these were. I can't eat ( more specifically- chew), talk (clearly), or EVEN FULLY CLOSE MY MOUTH!.i hate them...................SO... ...on a lighter note, does anyone here have/had that herbst thing before?Update- I got them off, and I'm wearing rubber-bands now.

I want to make special braces (mouth guard) in translucent plastic. I think I know how to make the molds based on the instructlab videos, but are there safety issues if I use plastic that is commercially available? What kind of plastic resins are used by dentists for making their braces? Where can I purchase them?

I go lightweight camping/hiking, and usually just bring granola or trail mix to eat, since it's dry and doesn't need refrigeration. Unfortunately, I just got my braces and now I can barely chew anything solid, and to make matters worse, the codes in my area make it so I can't use a stove or make a fire or anything like that. Any suggestions on what to bring for food?

I just got braces, and, on dentist's orders, I am to use "Prevident5000" fluoride toothpaste every night -- for 18 months. This simply won't work, because I'm allergic to sodium laurel sulfate (sls), and get killer canker sores within hours if I use anything with sls-namely, Prevident5000. Could someone recommend a brand of fluoride rinse lacking in sls?  

The Instructables site transforms open brace and close brace(]) into markup... how do I escape them so they'll show up in my instructable?

I play tuba and a lead pipe brace came off. does anyone know how to fix that?

Hi! I purchased an "industrial" shelving system that I will soon install in my home. Each unit will be separate and measures 7 feet high, 4 feet wide and 2 feet deep. Each will have 5 shelves that can hold 600 pounds each. They can be bolted or clipped, but I prefer to use the clips (unless instructed otherwise by a guru). I'm not going to put anything much heavier than books on them. I was assured by the seller that the units did not need bracings, but everyone else tells me otherwise. So what's YOUR take, fellow instructables member? How can you tell if a shelving system needs braces? If so, where do you put them? At the back back or on the sides? Full length (7' x 4') or any size but in the middle of the posts? Thank you very much!!

The Arduino code in my instructable contains '#include ' . The , which keeps disappearing when I hit 'save', I guess it is interpreted as a tag. I have tried < / > but without success. Thanks, R 

I want to make cross-braces for wooden shelves I built  using 1x4 stanchions, 1x12 shelves, threaded rod between the stanchions to hold the shelves up and the whole thing together, from an Instructables project. Ikea sells the perfect thing http://ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/87749600/  except it's too short and there's no Ikea in town; I mention it for the example it provides.  These http://www.storeroomshelves.com/storeroom_shelves_bracing/storeroom_shelves_bracing.htm look good too, and are cheap, but are 700 miles away. They don't need to be strong: I anchor the stanchions to the wall; I need them to hold the shelves up when I mantle and dismantle them.  They do need to be thin because the shelves are against the wall.

I would like someone to construct or set up a system  that measures the time that someone is wearing a brace. Usually they use temperature or  resistance sensor using a data logger. Please if someone can build this I could pay him.thank you

I would like to have a thin sensor to measure the time of wearing a scoiliosis brace by patient. Any suggestions?

I have a one car garage door I'm installing a garage door opener to. The problem is the manufacturer of the door doesn't guarantee the vertical aluminum center bar on the top panel of the door won't bend or break during the operation of the garage door opener. How can I brace the L-shaped aluminum bar to take the stress of the door being automatically lifted without warping the bar or the top panel of the door? There is no information listed on the garage door manufacturer's website.

I would like to have a thin sensor that can measure the wearing time of a hand brace of a patient? Any suggestions? Some people call it compliance sensor and using temperature during time. Thank you

I have a small fire-rated safe that I would like to bolt down in my upstairs apartment.  I can't drill holes through the sides of it and put screws into the wall studs.  There's a single heavy bolt hole in the safe's bottom.  Does anyone have any (real) suggestions on how I might secure it to the floor?  Is there likely to be space between my floor and the ceiling below me that I can slip a brace into? EDIT: I lifted up the edge of the carpet, and it looks like the floor under the carpet padding is concrete.

N. Arizona winds high right now. Lady Banks roses heavy on trellis, nearly blows down. tried anchoring stakes, doesn't work. Trellis is cemented into the ground. How can I brace the trellis so it stays upright.

I want to strengthen my Brand New Keter Folding Compact Workbench (Model17182239) to stabilize for planing, etc. This gentleman added a wooden top with clamps: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_BCKsBhI5Dg&list=PLVRClmknC_G4C4b75ebm3Oj5zUHly-2GP And that's PART of what I want but I'd like more stability for planing.  I've thought of a simple making floor brace to keep the legs from shifting along the floor, but I'd like something that will brace the work top from swaying/shaking on the legs too and yet STILL keep the table light weight and portable as possible with these additional features. I'm not new to the constructions environment, but brand new as a practitioner to wood working. Thanks all!

What Geeks do every day.7:00 AM= Wake up and brush teeth, then polish braces. (LOL)8:00 AM= After hour long brace polishing we eat a healthy fiber filled breakfast.8:30 AM= Leave for school. We like to be early.12:00PM= Talk to friends about Conquer.3:00 PM= After school, run away from bullies, all the way home.3:45 PM= At home, play Conquer.3:46 PM= Live Conquer.4:00 PM= Start doing homework.7:00 PM= Finish homework and study8:00 PM= Eat dinner then sleep instantly. Repeat every day, any day.

Hi, I want to make a fun lifting mechanism which I can use to raise critical beverages, light office supplies, etc., to the loft in our house, where my office is.  It could be manual or motor driven.  It can brace, lean against or grip the square handrail and square balusters,  but can't mar or be screwed into any woodwork or flooring.  Ideas?

I'm building an aluminum bridge for my railroad.  I need to solder the side braces rather than using screws and nuts.  I've ordered a 150 watt chisel soldering iron and need to know what items (solder etc) I need to perform this project.  Any assistance greatly appreciated.  I would rather not use a torch on this project unless absolutely necessary.

Hi Instructable Members! I was hoping someone can help me with a project for a business, which in turn will help others with their businesses or give ideas to other members. In this down economy, we need all the help we can get and rather than ask for a handout out from the government it is up to each and everyone of us to make our own way. Okay, enough of the preaching, let's get a teaching! My request is for information on constructing a internally lit, walking billboard. This is to advertise a walking tour business that I would like to start, but it could also be used to advertise other businesses. If you do a quick search on YouTube, you'll see a couple examples of what I'm talking about. Usually these models are pretty big and quite heavy, or should I say, heavier than they ought to be. I've seen them up close and have spoken to guys paid to carry them around here in Las Vegas. I'm told that they are constructed from sheet metal and plexiglass, weigh about 30lbs without the battery and aren't that comfortable. I wanted to make my units lighter and more comfortable, especially since I'll be the one wearing it all day. To do so, I've done a little research and have come up with some of the components to do this. Harness: I plan to use a military backpack frame called a Molle Frame. This is used as an internal structure to hold backpacks. It has several attachment points and is molded to follow the counter of the back. I have already purchased this harness along with the shoulder straps and hip harness. It is quite rugged and I'm sure it hold up to a 100 lbs in equipment. Though I hope my sign will weigh less than 10 lbs. Brace: To attach the billboard to the harness, I'd like to manufacture an aluminum brace. This brace would be constructed from aluminum bar stock and bent in such a way to hold the sign upright. It would be attached to the Molle harness by drilling holes through the aluminum bars and attached via nuts, bolts and washers. Cross braces will be attached to give the brace rigidity. Billboard Construction: (this is where I need help) Rather than making a "light box" from sheet metal, my idea would be to use Coroplast (a plastic type cardboard, typically used in mail containers like the post office uses. These can be found in sheets up to 1" thick. This could be used for the construction of a lightweight "light box" and then covered with black vinyl sheets or even spray painted. A rigid sign poster frame can then be attached to this box to hold a white opaque acrylic sheet. Then the advertisement can be place onto this sheet and then covered by a 3rd clear sheet to protect the advertisement. A quick note: This light box would have and internal skeleton, made of aluminum braces to attach to the brace and support the coroplast "light box" as well as the advertisement frame. Electrical component: (again, help is needed) I'm envisioning using led rope, or leds along the back side of the box to cast out enough light to illuminate the advertisement. Also I failed to mention that along the top of this light box, the front side has to be lit, as it will extend about a foot above my head to advertise toward the people i'm walking toward to. Please search "walking billboards" in YouTube and you'll see what I mean. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-n2RwBbTdjk&feature=related My unit won't nearly be as large, as I do have to be mobile and be able to maneuver inside casinos without knocking anyone over. So if you choose to accept this mission, I'd greatly appreciate it. Any ideas will be taken under advisement and if they seem to be doable and cost effective, I'll put up the results as a LED Walking Billboard Instructable - Let the creativity flow and the designing begin! Sincerely, ~Elric Leano

Brace yourself, America - you're due to be destroyed before the end of December!Quite by chance, I came across this Koran-based prediction from The Jerusalem Post via Skeptical News.You're all going to be scraped off the planet by a giant tsunami, partly because of the way you have treated Native Americans. Quite how destroying their homeland makes things better, I can't quite see...

I'm fat myself, so I can't see how this could offend anyone. That said, the design I was thinking of would be similar to the back support brace/slings that pregnant women wear. It would also have velcro attachments for additional things like an absorbant pad for "underneath." Are there any designs/projects here on this site for similar items? Any help would be appreciated.

The childs weight and energy on a spring horse is spread out by the springs. I want to put wooden rockers on a spring horse and remove the springs etc. Would the horse collapse under the child ? How would I brace up the inside of the horse ? How would I attach the hollow plastic feet to the wooden rocker? I have cut off the mane and tail to put in a real horse mane and tail so I do have limited access to the inside of the horse. I have thought to line the inside with bondo /fibreglass and maybe fill the feet but I do not like that it is a not a green product and could off gas harmful components etc. Any suggestions would be appreciated. These spring horses were on the way to the dump so I was given them for free and wish to do something really neat with them. I have some glass elk eyes to insert and wish to make a leather saddle and bridle. Fun Times! Thanks for any help.

I saw part of a show about how to build a wooden shelter using no nails from logs.  It didn't look like a log cabin.  The sides were split logs held in an upright brace also made of logs.  It was simple to make but very hard work as much of it was done with hand tools.  But I think modern tools could be used now. ( This was sometime in the 1960's.) Anyone know anything about it?  It would be a good thing for off-girders.

The sag occurs where the futon pivots into a sofa. Underside bracing in the form of wood blocks underneath(something like a shim) were tried but any lateral movement of the bed knocked them out.  I reinforced the bolts with 1.5 inch washers but it still isn't doing the trick.  If anyone has a suggestion I would be much obliged, as I am considering just turning it into a coffee table and sleeping on the floor.

I need to make gears that are approx. 4 feet in diameter for a float in a parade.  The gears will line the perimeter of the truck and are going to be made out of 3/4" plywood with metal bracing on the teeth to prevent the plywood from chipping and attached to a plywood background.  It would be awesome if we could alternate 4 foot gears with 3 1/2 or 3 foot gears for visual interest.  It needs to look childlike - so we are not using sawteeth.  I'm going to try to attach a picture with our logo for ideas.  Any help with designing a template or where I could go to get measurements would be appreciated!  Thank you!

I want to build raised garden beds with the walls being made out of concrete cinder blocks. Want the beds to be about 2 1/2' above ground and about 3' to 4' wide. I also want to make basically concrete counter tops to put on top (or benches). My question is .. how many inches can the top go beyond the concrete cinder block frame without having to add braces for the bench? Ex: if I use 6" wide cinder blocks .. and fill the holes with rebar and concrete .. what is the overhang I can have on the bench top?

Brace yourself for a flood of new or revitalised conspiracy theories on the internet - the British government has "lost" files relating to a significant UK UFO flap, the Rendlesham Incident. The incident has been pretty thoroughly debunked, starting with the huge holes and inconsistencies in the "witness" stories, and on through a quite convincing explanation of the actual light seen. Of course, the biggest piece of evidence for a conspiracy is a lack of evidence for the conspiracy - of course the story is real, otherwise They wouldn't have hidden all the evidence... Now, with some of the files "lost", the loons are going to be back all over the story. But, if you want to see the actual evidence that is currently available for free, you have a couple of weeks left to download the PDFs.  Enjoy.

Has anyone built anything like this, or know of an instructable that could help to design something like these floating, hot air balloons that are popular in Thailand?I am looking for, in particular, the method of obtaining or creating the fire-proof paper or fabric that is used for the balloon itself. Also of interest is the object at the opening of the balloon that is lit and provides the heat. It doesn't look like a small candle, like I thought it might be. But rather, it's a small pad, about the size of a note card (3x5") that is flammable and completely burns. I think I could figure out the metal loop and bamboo skewer cross-bracing that holds the base of the balloon open and that holds the lit pad in place.You may send responses to my email, as well...uncleplayground (at) yahoo (dot) comThanks!Sky Lantern

A stroll around the park may soon be enough to charge the raft of batteries needed in today's power-hungry gadgets.US and Canadian scientists have built a novel device that effortlessly harvests energy from human movements.The adapted knee brace, outlined in the journal Science, can generate enough energy to power a mobile phone for 30 minutes from one minute of walking.A slow walk can generate an average of 5W of electricity, but they have models that will produce 13W - enough power for a one-minute stroll to provide half an hour of talk-time.The prototype makes you sound like an extra in Terminator, but the inventors are predicting saleable products within 18 months, probably powering (in the first instance) modern prosthetic limbs.Soldiers may also benefit from wearing the knee brace to power the multitude of devices they now carry ,such as night vision goggles and GPS."They treat batteries like they treat food and water - they are so essential to what they do," he said.Link to BBC articleLink to BBC VideoLink to Science Magazine articleThis whole idea seems like a "Good Thing" to me - even without the computer-control, I don't see why a pedestrian or jogger couldn't wear a pair of generators similar to those in wind-up torches, charging phone and PDA as you stroll around doing the shopping or jogging across the park. Get them with a Nike or Motorola logo, and we'd see hundreds of people wearing batman-style utility belts, stacked with all the gadgets the modern human "needs". It could really help wearable computing take off as well.

I would like to build raised beds approximately 2 1/2' tall and between 3 1/2 to 4' wide (planting area). I want to construct the "walls" out of concrete cinder blocks .. I ALSO want to place a 2" thick concrete "counter or bench" top on the wall. My question is .. how far of overhang can I have for the "bench slab" on top of the "wall" without having to add braces etc? EX: if I use 6" wide cinder blocks (with rebar & concrete) .. and the wall is only between 2 1/2 to 3 feet tall .. and only being used to contain soil .. not to withstand major structural elements .. how far can the concrete bench top extend from the front of the wall?

Eepybird, the "Coke and Mentos Guys" used 108 2L bottles of Coke Zero and 648 Mentos to propel a car/bike 221 feet! An explanation of how it works, from their YouTube video: "The Coke Zero & Mentos Rocket Car uses a piston mechanism: a six-foot long rod sits inside a six-foot long tube attached to each bottle of Coke Zero. When the Mentos drop into the soda, the pressure tries to push the rod out of the tube. With 108 rods all pushing at once, that gives us a lot of power. All that power is pushing against a wall braced with 3,600 pounds of cement blocks. So all the force is directed into moving the Coke Zero & Mentos Rocket Car forward. We get one big push for six feet, and then it's all coasting from there."   via msnbc

I want to build my wife a drafting table. I really like the style of vintage drafting tables which use this round flat disc as a tilting mechanism, either by having incremental holes drilled in it for pegs, or having a knob-tightened clamp putting pressure on it. Pics included are what I'm talking about Problem is, I can't for the life of me figure out the name of that round metal part, or more importantly, where to buy one. Actually, I have found many names for it, but none of them are of any use to me, because when I google these names in search of a supplier, the results are anything BUT what I'm looking for. Names I've tried: tilt arm slider rail bracket track U-bracket circle iron lid support circular brace These terms were either wrong or perhaps not specific enough to lead me to the actual part. Help?

Oops, so I posted this in Outdoors before I found Home. Double posting is irritating but it's kind of relevant to both... I'm new to the forums here (long time reader, infrequent poster), if I just committed a major faux pas, gimme a heads up and I'll take one of these down! Anyway, so the back door of my 3rd floor apartment opens on to what amounts to a raised back yard; the only problem is that this "back yard" is the roof of a 2 story addition to the brownstone I live in, and I'd rather not put my foot through a very expensive roof. I've been looking into decking, and right now my plan is a contact-only solid frame all the way around the perimeter of the roof, with a lip extending over the edge of the roof (to supply stability without puncturing the membrane) connecting to the actual frame of the deck which would of course be placed over the top of the brick walls of the building. From there I was going to face the deck with synthetics, probably with struts placed along the horizontal struts of the roof connected to both the upper deck and sub-deck cross bracing (depending on what materials I use/can afford and their relative strength). My hope is to find a way to make the deck in modular pieces that can be removed for when the roof inevitably needs to be resurfaced. So basically it would be large squares (or irregular shapes, whatever) that would sit on top of the struts/cross bracing with the help of a few screws and provide the deck surface. What I'm worried about is water intrusion at the contact points, such as around the edge of the roof and on top of the studs in the middle of the roof. I know synthetics are much more resistant to this type of failure than older materials, but are they impervious? Where do the pros put contacts so water doesn't leak into the floor below? Even if you minimalize it, the deck will have to come into contact with the roof at some point, or you've found some fancy new way of building I'd love to hear about. A few other thoughts are footprint: the building is an 1890 Richmond row house, could this be done with a small enough profile to increase the value of the property without damaging the "drive by" value? (I was picturing an iron railing to keep the project semi period, and this roof actually connects to the big hulking wooden fire escape, so it wouldn't be marring a virgin landscape) Also, do you think any building codes in the country would allow L bracing and big old bolts to hold the structure of the deck together instead of end-nailing the boards? It would make removal for roof work a lot easier. For the corners, would it be better to miter the ends at 45 and run a bolt through the two of them, end nail an L joint or use a thick metal l bracket and a few bolts to hold the joint together? That was kind of an intense post, I'm just looking to shoot the breeze a little bit with anyone who has any thoughts. Everybody always has their perfect way of doing things, on such a big, high pressure job (if this goes south I'd be poor AND homeless!) I want to really chew on the idea a little bit first. Thanks to anyone who actually read this far!

I will be building some kayak carts out of PVC, and I was wondering about side stress, using schedule 40, versus schedule 80? I noticed you mentioned that 80 is thicker than 40, and will handle higher pressure / higher temperature. Will this equate to higher sideways stress?My cart will start as a basic "H" shape, with additional cross bars at the bottom, (where the axle will go through), and up the body, for bracing, with the top of the "H" left open. The top will get slipped into the scupper holes, and allows the kayak to be rolled along without the need for strapping the kayak to the cart. The last one I built worked well, but when I pulled my boat over a curb, the lateral stress caused the PVC to break. That cart was made out of schedule 40, and I was wondering if building it out of 80 would help?On a related note, it there any material I can pour into the cart, to increase strength? My initial thought was to fill it with epoxy, though that would be expensive.Thank you for this great class.-Sean

Hi! I'm slightly obsessed with this giant photo frame (see attached). I'm pretty sure it's just a concept / one-off, and it's not something I'd be able to afford anyways, so I'm considering how to DIY it. I've got some good ideas for the outer frame rim, but I can't come up with a way to make the huge back plate and matt that would look nice and not be too heavy. For the backplate I could probably use posterboard or 3mm MDF, but I'm not sure of how to join two or more sheets together that won't significantly add to the weight. At this size there will also be some serious stability issues - it'll need some sort of cross bracing. For the matt, I think I could maybe just use nice cardboard and cut the picture holes by hand, carefully lining up adjacent sheets. Proper matt material I think would be way too expensive for something that size. Any ideas? Thanks Alex  

For those people that arent familar with magic cards they are collecter as well as playing cards that you can collect and what i intend to make a mosaic out of the art from these cards. the idea is a 29 by 47 tile mosaic (of a face) which will probably be rather big, the tiles will be approx 2 1/16 inches (5.24 cm) by 1 9/16 inches (3.97 cm)  so that will make the whole art work about 1.52m by 1.87m. so there will be the tiles all creating this picture and then i want to put a clear plastic sheet over the top (havent decided if i want it pivoted at the top of to have it completely stuck down but it is not really the problem). I would like to know of suitable methods for glueing each of the tiles as well as what to glue them too as well as bracing of the art to keep it straight and flat and all that, be it made of wood or anything nothing is a problem metal to some extent but yeah any ideas because what i have so far is the tiles ready to be cut and no way to stick them and no idea what to stick them too. any help would be appreciated and thank you in advance :)

And it is not working......in fact, the 555 timer is getting hot, suggesting I either wired something wrong, or it  has a problem handling the crystal speaker I used from a phone......in any case, I won't be entering this contest either, but I do want to attempt to trouble shoot and publish my USB  light sensing alarm. In my rush, I tried to climb out of my work area (my wife has it fairly well "barricaded in" with her stuff), and tripped over the pile and ended up under the office chair, with the cross brace of the desk getting broken,  I struck it so hard. AFAIK, I am unhurt, not counting a bit of a strained neck muscle and some lower back muscle pain too. She came back (after trying to call me on the cell phone) to see if all was well, and of course I was still partially buried.  Unable to actually help me out much, she went back to watching her movie as I dug myself out from under the pile.    This is not the first time something like this has happened and with the way things will continue, it won't be the last. *sigh*

Alright, fellow Instructablers, I need help. I'm not usually a forum-poster; I like lurking. But I'm getting a little desperate. About a month ago, I was in a bit of a car accident. The airbags went off as I was trying to turn away from the telephone pole, and so my right wrist was in front of the steering wheel when the bags went off. This means that my right wrist (yes, I'm right handed) is still recovering, with the current diagnosis of "soft tissue injury with a sprain on top." I'm going to see a hand specialist, but in the mean time, it's quite the wrist brace. Though I can use my fingers, I can't do much without pain/stiffness/etc. So here's the problem that I'm posing to you: what can I make? I'm going stir-crazy. I knit, I woodwork, I play with wire and jewelry making, I draw, I take things apart... I'm willing to learn any new medium and play with any new toys. But I can't use my wrist. So, what adaptive techniques or simple projects or mediums do you suggest until I'm back to full powers? TL;DR: Can't use my wrist, but want to keep making things. Ideas?

Hello. The reason: I have terrible posture trouble (as many people do) and my work as an artist often leads me to spend a lot of time sat in out of the way places in fairly un ergonomic set ups.  It is hard to remind yourself to sit up straight while you are concentrating on something else and I often find that due to my absorption I have been sat slouched over a painting for hours at a time and now have a terrible back and neck ache. I don't think buying a brace is the way to go as that only solves the problem while you are wearing it and you stop using the muscles that keep you upright which over time worsens the problem. The Idea: So the perfect solution would seem to be something light that you can wear that will monitor your posture and either sound a little buzzer or even give you a little zap to remind you to sit the hell up thus slowly training you to sit up straight as a matter of habit. The only thing i could think of  is some kind of simple device with elastic or string you can attach to your waste, shoulders and back of the head that when you slump forward would pull on the string and sound the buzzer. I have no Idea how to make such a thing and would value other peoples thoughts on the matter and any technical no how.

Hello, Brace yourself. Background Details: -Dell 8600 Inspiron Laptop  -40 GB HD -512MB RAM -Dual Boots Ubuntu 10.10/Windows XP Ubuntu Partition = 10 GB, Windows = 30 GB Heres the problem: XP has started to get chronic BSODs. Its bad. And its slow. On the flip side, Ubuntu is the opposite. Heres what I want to do: 1.) Delete XP and convert the HD to an Ubuntu only drive.... How do I repartition it/do this at all?  2.) HOWEVER, I have some expensive programs on the XP partition that I would like to save... such as the entire adobe suite, the entire office suite, etc... How would I transfer these programs to the Ubuntu partition? I can't reinstall them because I don't have the disks... they have to be transfered some how. 3.) AND I have several programs that won't install on XP because it gets the BSOD's before it finishes installing them.... how can I install these on Ubuntu? I have heard some stuff about Wine 1.2, but I haven't looked into it too much. I want an opinion first... Any advice, comments, words of wisdom, etc would be appreciated.... Thank you.

For some time I've been searching on Instructables for how to make a file box for index cards. No matter what word order or word types I used, what came up was making stuff out of index cards, or other odd stuff.  But nothing that got me what I was searching for. How to make a file box for index cards, needs to be basic & simple, not laser cutting (as don't have such). However, do have a box cutter, packing tape, handheld power tools: circular saw, saber saw, drill, just no tabletop tools, & no way to make, & no room to put any tabletop for such. I've looked at the Snap-N-Store collapsible index card file boxes, & have head/read by customer reviews that the snaps don't necessarily stay snapped.  I'm thinking if made w/cardboard or fiberboard (as the Snap-N-Store is) that something like corner brackets/braces (just not metal ones for wood)  can be used instead of snaps, & would hold together better. The Snap-N-Store boxes I'm wanting hold 1000 cards ea, & for ea size of index card 3X5, 4X6, & 5X8 I just need some help for a pattern & building instructions. Can anyone do an Instructable for such so I can follow & make them? Remember, I don't have, nor get access to, nor know how to use a laser cutter, or tabletop powertools. I just have handheld powertools of circular saw, saber saw, drill, & boxcutter, scissors & the usual handtools & hardware. Thanks

Hello! :)  I am hoping someone can help me. I carve   faux claws, fangs,and bone rings.  There are times I wish I could soften the bone, as when carving a claw from a rib bone, It would be nicer if I could remove the marrow , soften the bone and bring the 2 curved ends together, or when making rings using sections cut from a thigh bone, I end up with piece's  that are odd shaped and too thin walled to carve out room for a finger.  If I could find a way to soften the bone i could squeeze the bone some to get a usable round shape ,(after bracing and letting dry.), and I would have more usable maternal  I remember when I was growing up, we were up in the villages and a VISTA volunteer came for the summer. He had in his room a bone in a bottle, not soft, but hard , no cuts in the bottle . Us kids tried to figure out how he got it in there as the bone was a little bigger than the opening. Before he left he finally told us he had soaked the bone so it was pliable and able to fit through the smaller opening, once inside it went back to it's shape and dried hard again.   For the life of me I can't remember what it was he soaked it in. If anyone knows, or has a idea , it would be greatly appreciated if you would let me know.   Have a great day, or night ( I know I spend hours here when I can't sleep and am "Night owling". lol ). I love this place!! :) :)    Leo4613   :)

This week at the Chesterfield County Makerspace, we were lucky enough to host a DODO Case Instructables build night.  During the week beforehand, Doc and I sat around and brainstormed some ideas for case modifications that would help make the cases better.  We determined that a head strap is mandatory to enjoy any virtual reality games that require a controller. At the RVA Makerfest, we learned that we need a way to be able to clean the faceplate from the hundreds of people that we cycled through our DODOcase, so I designed the front faceplate to be 3D  printed.  In addition to 3D printing the faceplate, I also designed a nosepiece.  I found out, from hard experience, that the cardboard is very uncomfortable for wearing any longer than five minutes; we have access to ninjaflex filament here, so I knew a fix would be fairly easy.  Here are the separate instructables for our mods: Faceplate Nosepad Headstrap Over the course of the night we led two separate groups of kids in constructing their own cases.  We printed out enough nosepieces that everyone could use one, and had enough elastic strap for people to be able to had head straps to their goggles.  Once everybody got their goggles assembled, hilarity ensued as some of the kids almost walked into walls while enjoying their virtual environments.  A few problems we noticed:  not a lot of VR apps for apple devices, some devices do not cooperate with the magnetic switch (although the DODOCase V 1.2 fixes this), and some devices were too small even for the braces to hold them in.  However, everyone had a good time and we cannot wait for our next build session.  Thank you Instructables for allowing us to put on this event.

I've been toying with using TEC chips (facinating devices that are cheap - applying voltage make one side hot - the other cold, Inversely, appling any existing temprature differential to the sinks PRODUCES POWER). They are used most commonly by consumers in auto beverage coolers and heaters. It  started when a car ran me down on my bike, and I was wearing a neck brace for months. I thought about how misserable I'd be if it were summertime. I also thought of those poor people that always wore them... Anyway, there's a thousand different easy ways to do this - I took fluid-filled plastic sections of a beverage cooler and attached them to a belt, which hangs around my neck. applied the heat  sink of the TEC and there you go - just wrap it in something. Now if I were on a motorcycle in summer and stopped in traffic, the cool collar would be a lifesaver, as well as a myriad of other apps. I cannot figure out the best (inexpensive) way to control this. It's easy enough to turn on and off - you can hardly forget it! But if I allow the chip to get too much wattage it will get too hot and self-destruct. Also, if I limit the wattage correctly, it would just need adjusting, and could be left on most of the time. The idea here is there are many ways to do this but they are too expensive... I want everyone to be able to afford it. If you use a Pot or resistor, the excess goes to heat and ruins battery life, and other controllers of DC current are expensive. Any help? I am almost 60 and have earned the nickname Misc. Expert among my family and friends, and I must say I'm very impressed with what y'all do here in this newsletter - Congrats!