How to make a strong bridge by using 15 straws , 35 paddle pop sticks , 3 sheets of cardboard, 50cm of sticky tape, wood glue? my bridge have to be 25cm long and 14cm wide. Thank you for helping
Asked by bryan1234567890 9 years ago
How can we construct the truss structure and the hinges, mainly the hinges, using only the sticks, thin (1 mm cross section) cotton strings and glue? can u please suggest ideas for the design of the same?? We would also appreciate if you'd give us suggestions for the construction of the open-close mechanism, which incidentally, what a Bascule Bridge is all about!
Asked by fear_black_death 8 years ago
Please Help! I need to make a bridge rectifier for a shake charging flashlight which also include using a 5V regulator - so it won't be a very high voltage, if that matters. What type of diodes do I need for this bridge rectifier? HELP! thank you! patti :)
Asked by mckywer 8 years ago
I'm doing a science fair prototype bridge but I don't know how many popsicles sticks to build a truss bridge
Asked by adamray2106 7 months ago
So i have some 850W 36v DC motors that i need to design an H-bridge for, and ive decided to use the IRS2110 to driveing them, since i need to drive the highside fets. I however have no idea of how to use that chip. Any help? :P
Asked by dumle29 6 years ago
I want to build a foot bridge across a creek! The width of the creek is 16', but I'm going 24' long to support the footers. The bridge itself will be 4' wide. I was thinking of using "C" channel iron welded onto I-beams to hold the treated 2x6's in place. I need info on what type and size of beams, etc. If it's not too obvious I'm a complete engineering noob, but this is the kind of project that makes country living worthwhile. Thanks in advance for your kind help!
Asked by FyreAntz 6 years ago
Hello! I'm a bit stuck on making a stable, theoretical bridge. Rules: No one piece can be longer than 10, no shorter than 1. The bridge must span at least 8. Imagine a gully: \______/ There are three anchor points that you must use on each side - the highest is at the top, the lowest halfway down (not that that makes too much difference...). You have 80 pieces with which to build your bridges - please can you lend me your noggin's as I'm having trouble coming up with ideas that will bear a load. A regular suspension bridge or a tressle bridge won't work, as the joins for the pieces are not fixed solid - so you must use triangles / tension to support them. A bit like loose mechano, or whatever it is people have these days :7) Do they still have lego? I haven't seen a kid play with lego for ages... It's mostly P£3 and Sega Megadrives and stuff. tsk. Thanks! Claire. [ed] I just noticed a knex catagory. I guess that's mechano, right..?
Asked by The_Saccade 8 years ago
Hi, I was wondering if someone could help me out at building a high frequency variable square wave generator. Specs: 100kHz - 1Mhz (better if I can get up to 3Mhz), 5 to 20V, square wave. Right now I have a LM555 timer. I have read online that I can get it to run at maximum 1Mhz. I don't know what I'm doing wrong, but I can't get it to output at higher frequencies. Also, does anyone know of a good H-bridge circuit schematic that could output 24V pk-pk at 3A. I will be using the signal from the square wave generator to feed to the H-bridge, therefore, is there a H-bridge design that can handle high frequencies? Or, is there another driver circuit that I could use instead of a H-bridge that could do the same job or better?
Posted by sonny301 9 years ago
Like we mostly used (4 x 1N4007) Rectifier bridge to convert 12v AC to 12v DC.why and how we can calculate it?Formula?
Asked by AliR79 2 years ago
This bridge launching robot by Flickr user Mahjqa is fantastic! The curled up bridge on its back is extended out up to 48cm (19 inches) over a gap before the robot disengages from it so it may drive across. On the other side it can turn around and pick it back up! [Youtube via Gizmodo]
Posted by Jayefuu 8 years ago
Is it possible to make a transistor H-bridge with PNP transistors or can it only be done with NPN transistors. As far as my knowledge( or lack thereof) of transistors goes, I think it would be possible, but it would require more than 4 transistors and it would be much more complex, however I could be entirely wrong. Any input would be helpful, thanks.
Asked by jpenn 8 years ago
I need to design a bridge for a project but it has to be made out of MDF that is 20cm x 33cm x 3mm MDF that is 3mm x 3mm x anything hot glue and string. It has to be strong, span 60cm have a 30cm clearance and be 20cm wide. It can have no supports and not attach to the ground. The wide MDF can only be used for the road and you cannot layer it.
Asked by eggyeggyeggy 8 years ago
Well, the question itself tells a lot (mostly how bad it's asked). I have a quad amplifier that i'm using as a stereo bridge. So is there a possibility to bridge those two (or parallel em?) This amplifier is not some factory made amp, It's a simple amp i made with TDA7375. The output is somewhere between 2x30 and 2x40W , but i'm only using one channel and it seems like a waste (I'm using it as a small woofer driver, didn't have another amp so this one had to do) So, The question is Is there a way i can make this Mono so i can get some more power out of it (or just use both channels so i don't only use one). The amp is TDA7375 and the speaker is Novex sps250i (yeah, it's crappy but sounds decent) Also it says nowhere that this one can be bridged to mono. Also won't it work if i parallel two channels and then bridge them to mono? (as in parallel four into two then bridge those) From what someone told me if i want to parallel it i'll need some 0.1ohm 5W resistors (those are really cheap and easy to find here) Thanks in advance.
Asked by T0C 6 years ago
Must have: mass- 45.0 grams or less length- must be longer than 38.0 centimeters (2.0 cm by 2.0 cm square rod must be able to pass through full length of roadway surface) height & depth- can't extend more than 12.0 cm above test support surface and 10.0 cm below it. roadway- will support 100lbs load, cannot be more than 2.0 cm above test support surface BRIDGES CAN'T BE WEDGED INTO SUPPORTS) someone please help, i'm stuck!
Asked by erikabixby 7 years ago
Hi,, i'm new here and i'm new using arduino,,, i have an arduino uno, and i have to make a project for a class in my university.i would like to know how to use a dc motor form a cd-rom, i have an h.bridge RX-2B, and i need to know how to control the direction of the motor with those components, i've found some information around, but using another h-bridge, so i'm not sure about the configuration of my circuit, i jus t need tha for the moment,,, thanks?
Asked by edwin0791 5 years ago
Would you need an additional microcontroller, such as an arduino, or could you control servos and lights directly from the IO-Bridge module?
Asked by Bostonians 9 years ago
I have an Epiphone acoustic guitar that I really like, my girlfriend gifted it to me after her uncle gifted it to her (she doesn't play, fingers are too small). It's the FT-130. It basically has two large screws, one on either side of the bridge, If anyone is familiar with this style of adjustable bridge can you please either tell me how to use it or send me a link to a site that will? the action is pretty low on the high strings and I'm getting a lot of buzzing (more than I should). Thanks for any help you can give!
Posted by HAL 9000 10 years ago
I have a half-bridge circuit. It using IRFP460. But I want turn this driver to high power version. So I request some help! Can I use IGBT for half-bridge circuit?
Asked by james34602 5 years ago
Ok i have 4 speaker which can handle 80W continuous power and having an impedence of 4 ohm each. I also have a 4 channel amplifier. The amplifier outputs are as follow: 60W RMS x 4 @ 4 ohms 80W RMS x 4 @ 2 ohms 160W RMS x 2 @ 4 ohms bridged How can i wire the speakers in such a way that i get the best outcome in terms of power? I've been thinking of wiring 2 sets of 2 speakers in parallel and connecting them to the amp as bridge stereo. But the problem is that i don't know if it will cause problem to the amp. because the amp is 2ohm stable but i don't know if it is 2ohm stable when bridged
Asked by ARJOON 3 years ago
Im trying to save space in the design and be cost effective( i wanted the pic and h-bridge and the motor to be under 1 inch) . so im trying to use the smallest chips that will do the job. i was wondering if an 8-bit pic would do the job ? edit: Id prefer using Microchips PIC, i think i have somewhat an idea of using MPLAB. Im planning on using a brushed DC motor, H-bridge, and Voltage regulator. It has to fit under a 1' area taking up the least possible space because im using it as an unlocking/locking device. i was wondering what would be the best microchip pic that could achieve this with the least cost and size.
Asked by dudeitskumar 6 years ago
I have a large stepper motor with 4 wires (bipolar) from an old printer and I assume it's 12 volts, or at least higher than 5v. I have plenty of transistors: 2n3904, 2n2222, 2n4401 and 2n3906 (PNP). How do I drive the stepper with output from an arduino? (simple H-bridge schematic?) Also, how can i find how many steps it has? Thanks!
Asked by Vick Jr 7 years ago
Hi All I am brand new to hobby electronics and would love one day to be able to create the endless amount of cool Instructables but I have ran into a problem on my first attempt at putting theory into practice and would really appreciate any help. I have made two diagrams / images showing the circuit I made I have attached them to this post. I am using an Arduino Uno as a power source.... I ran a 5v positive from the 5v pin on the Arduino using solid core jumper to the top of the breadboard onto the positive row / rail and a negative / ground jumper to the bottom of the breadboard. In the middle of the breadboard I placed a 1k ohms resistor bridging the gap / grove/ divide and ran the positive feed through it and on to the anode leg of the LED. The cathode leg of the LED was connected to the negative row / rail completing the circuit. All works as it should because of the high resistance from the resistor the LED barely lights and is green as it should be. So without using a multimeter I know and can see the resistor is clearly working. However if I move the resistor so it's still on the same line / row as it was but no longer bridging the gap the LED goes super bright and turns yellow which means that the resistor is no longer working which I can't figure out why because I know there is definitely current flowing through it given the extreme reaction of the LED. I vaguely remember reading somewhere on these forums that Fritzing is not liked very much so I hope no one minds but to help explain what I mean above I have created two diagrams / pictures using Fritzing. The images diagrams shows the resistor "bridging" and working and the other shows it not bridging and therefore not working. So my question would be why given the resistor has current flowing through it does it not work unless it's bridging this middle divide / gap / grove? It makes me think I am missing something really stupid that everyone should know about breadboards but just seems really odd to me. Many Thanks Rab
Posted by belfastrab 3 years ago
Hey people , i have build a line follower robot using -(arduino,motor controller(l293d), IR modules and sensors) WELL NOW I HAVE GOT A NEW METALLIC CHASSIS(its kinda heavy).Earlier we use a cardboard box and it worked just fine . But now the motor driver is not able to give enough current to drive the cart.But when i connected it without the motor driver its able to drive the cart forward. So my conclusion is that the IC (l293d) is the cause of my problems,so i want to know how i might be able to fix it OR if i have to use another ic like (SN754410 H-Bridge)
Asked by cthaliyath 4 years ago
How do I get my playstation PS3 to pick up my desktop internet, that I get via my moms place down the street? I get my desktop internet connection via a engenius bridge and large antenna from my moms place down the street. I just got a PS3 and the built in wifi thats built in cant pick it up the signal cause her place is too far away. Is there a way that I can get the PS3 to pick up a signal from my desktop, even though my desktop internet comes from someone else??
Asked by krose1223 6 years ago
How can you make a bibliography on a bridge
Asked by adamray2106 5 months ago
If I use a bridge rectifier to convert AC 110V into "DC" 110(154V), I'm guessing the amperage rating on the rectifier is how much current will be available to use vs the voltage being output as well? The reason I put 154 volts is because peak voltage is 110ac times 1.4. I'm using this for LEDs, just to provide some more info. The bridge rectifiers I have are rated at 200V and 1.5A.?
Asked by opliko 9 years ago
But it works on the laptop... it says restart router.. did it.. still the same problem.. any advice??
Asked by Ghett0Ninja21 7 years ago
The characteristic sound of a sitar is created by a bridge that gently rolls away from the strings; this creates a buzzing timbre which quickly depletes higher overtones in the string's vibration (I could draw some diagrams if anyone's interested). This type of bridge is something I'd like to make as a removable modification for a guitar. My guitar has a "floating tailpiece" as I believe it's called, in which the strings pass beyond the bridge to the tailpiece. The segment of the strings below the bridge have no part in tone generation, and so could have an object attached to them (a piece of wood wedged between the strings, perhaps) without affecting the guitar's tone. If some object (the "clamp") were attached to the strings immediately below the bridge, another object (the "sitar bridge") could be affixed to it some minuscule distance from the vibrating portion of the strings. The sitar bridge would not make contact with the strings at rest, and so would not be a node of vibration (and not affect the strings' pitch), but when the strings are played, their vibrations would make them rattle against the sitar bridge - much like the bridge of an actual sitar. So how about it? I think it'd be an interesting and relatively simple mod that could be made to be removable and not destructive at all to the actual guitar. I unfortunately have no idea how to refine the concept any further than what's written, so I leave it up to any willing DIY-ers. It all makes sense in my head, but I may have accidentally left out some important particulars of this kind of mod, so please ask any questions you have. Because this mod relies on the strings below the bridge in a floating tailpiece guitar, I don't think it would work on most solid-bodied guitars, but if anyone can come up with a similar mod for the more common bridge type, be my guest. Also remember that the "clamp" below the bridge cannot rely on the tensile strength of the strings, as not only are they not terribly strong, their tension needs to remain intact so that the guitar can be played in tune.
Posted by Impasse 8 years ago
Hi, I need help to understand what I would need to use a bunch of these (free) old transformers to power various 12vdc LED strip lights in my garage. I have read-up on the subject of using a bridge rectifier in each circuit to convert the AC to DC,,, BUT,, being completely useless at formula / algebra / maths, I cannot work out which bridge rectifier would work for me. I can adjust the length of LED strip to suit, but the longer - the better! The LED strips I have are 5m long, 300leds, & the specs say 5amp for the full length. So, is there a bridge rectifier available to buy, what number is it? (same if I need anything else) Please help,, and try not to baffle me with techy science. Many thanks.
Asked by bowtie262 7 months ago
I was reading this article on how scientist made a bridge out of water, just liquid water, using a high voltage of electricity. They flipped the switch and the water from one glass(well i'm not sure what they put it in, i am assuming a glass beaker) over the very air between the beakers and into the other glass, held up by nothing at all. You won't be driving cars across this thing anytime soon, they biggest they could make it span was 25mm. Supposedly the current restructured the water molecules to create it. I do know they used DC current though. Also the bridge only last for 45 minutes, because of heat, which as the article states, it went from 20(degrees) C to more than 60(degrees)CQuoted from the article,http://www.physorg.com/news110191847.html)Upon investigating the phenomenon, the scientists found that water was being transported from one beaker to another, usually from the anode beaker to the cathode beaker. The cylindrical water bridge, with a diameter of 1-3 mm, could remain intact when the beakers were pulled apart at a distance of up to 25 mm.I'm not sure how much current was going threw them but I would be amazed and appreciate it if someone could find out, experimenting or however they could.
Posted by cd41 9 years ago
Several months ago, I posted an I'ble for adding an AC adapter to something. The adapter I chose, from Radio Shack, is actually a two-piece "kit" -- the wall wart cord ends in a generic two-pin female jack, and they sell a bunch of different end plugs. The jack is symmetric, so that the end plug can be put on with either ground or hot on the outside.I've just realized that this could be a problem. If the electronic device expects red to be positive and black negative, then putting the jack on backwards would be equivalent to installing all the batteries the wrong-way about. Not a great feature.To "protect" the device, I'm considering adding a diode bridge to ensure that the internal "red wire" always carries the positive, and the "black wire" is always ground. Do more experienced folks consider this a good idea? Is it necessary? Would it be better, perhaps, to just epoxy the end plug so it can't be reversed?
Posted by kelseymh 9 years ago
I am building a guitar using a fender neck and a Tune-O-Matic style bridge. I dont want to have an angled neck, so can someone give me detailed instructions on how to recess a Tun-O-Matic please? If someone could make an Instructable that would be even better, thanks.
Asked by blindsagacity 9 years ago
Hi guys, Im Rinozen.. Im newbie on Arduino and Electronic ^_^ Anyway, can you guys please help me? Look at the schematics i've uploaded. Are there something wrong about the track? And what value for the Resistors and Capacitors for the right choice? Sorry about my english ^_^ Thanks for reply... :)
Asked by rinozen 3 years ago
Alright, so ive got this rc car, it runs off of a 7.2v battery pack and has variable speed and turning. it is not a hobby-grade car, but it is still something id like to hold onto. today, when i tried to drive it, i discovered it could not accelerate, forwards or reverse. it can steer fine, but trying to accelerate does nothing. ive ruled out the controller and the motor, which means the h-bridge and associated circuitry must be to blame. i tested the battery in another car of the same model (not mine), and all was well there. the h-bridge must be PWM controlled in order for there to be variable speed, so heres what im figuring: the motor is making a clicking noise when i pull the trigger on the remote, looking at the motor, it is turning very little and then stopping and then doing this again, at a fast rate. when it stops turning for that split seond it returns to the original position, because it has turned so little. i know the motor itself is fine, because i connected the battery straight to it and it spun up and turned the wheels. i have a feeling the issue lies within the PWM control. i cannot guarantee the receiver chip is fine but it seems kind of odd that it would be the part to fail; regardless i cannot find a datasheet using the numbers on the chip. if i were to try and look for an issue/failed part somewhere, where might you guys think i should start? there are a number of transistors on the board around the h-bridge, some capacitors, and a lot of resistors as well. i checked all the resistors inside the h-bridge and they are all the same value as the bands indicate, andthere are no corroded or cold solder joints. i plan to test the h-bridge on its own once i find a diagram i can reference to, that way if the h-bridge works i can rule it out and narrow the possibilities. if you need any more information please let me know.
Asked by zack247 5 years ago
My idea is to make a electret microphone amplifier powerful enough to drive a speaker. I was using the lm386 because I was familiar with it´s chracteristics and already had a schematic to make a 200 gain amplifier. However, when I tried to use this one to amplify a microphone signal it ended up not providing enough power to drive a 8 ohm speaker (you had to stand right next to the speaker in order to hear something and even when doing so the microphone seemed to only pick up loud noises) despite the results of a similar test made with headphones proved to be more than successful. Seeing this, I assumed that connecting another lm386 amplifier to the output of the first one would improve the results. Boy i was wrong. After hearing the unearthly noises that came out of my proyect I decided to do some research on the internet and came up with the bridge and parallel configurations. Nevertheless, i did not find any proper schematics involving two lm386. It would be of great help if anyone could hand in a schematic or tip on how could I continue from ths point.
Asked by MrB12 1 year ago
Ive got an old New Bright RC truck, i got it around 2000 so as you can assume the batteries arent very good anymore. im not looking to repair the batteries though, im looking to upgrade the truck with a little bit of some newer technologies. heres where i ask for help: i dont want to overpower the control board in the car, since it may have adverse effects on how it performs, so i just want to up the power to the motor. i have some D2583 and B1658 transistors, i found a datasheet for the D2583's that says they are high power NPN transistors, but no such luck with the B1658's. using the D2583's (i have 6 of them), i want to create a circuit that runs from the main board, and acts as a second H-Bridge (or some sort of control circuit) that controls more power, so i can safely run more voltage to the drive motor without overpowering the main circuit board. does anybody know how i can do this? i have attached a picture of the area on the circuit board where the original H-bridge is.
Asked by zack247 6 years ago
Asked by Too-inquinsitive 8 years ago