has anyone seen a LEGO canister like this one?

I don't know much about it i have tried to find out it its my moms  and i wanted to  fix up but before i do  aim not to sure what it looked like to begin with thank y'all  for any help  hear is some better pics  and its not wood its  ceramic i think thanks 

Asked by ggardner7 5 years ago

hexagonal box design?

Looking for tips for efficient design of wooden hexagonal boxes, bottoms, and lids.  Jewelry boxes, canisters, etc.  How to clamp for glue or air brads - I'm thinking a hexagonal jig, but that's potentially a lot of jigs for different-size boxes.

Asked by rjvoyerjr 7 years ago

How to make a cool-looking DIY canister filter for a 10 gal guppy tank with a college student budget?

Hi everybodyi'm a newbie for diy project but i would love to give it a try. ok, so my hang on the back filter for my 10 gal tank just stopped working. i started to google for a diy filter and found a cool site to make a diy canister filter. here is the link: http://www.petfrd.com/forum/articles.php?action=viewarticle&artid=87&page=2however i just wonder if anyone had tried it. if you did please respond back to me with a detailed step-by-step instructions on how to assembly one. in addition, please tell me where i can get the materials for the lowest cost. i guess in this economy a college student like me just can't afford to spend too much. btw i'm in san diego ca if that helps... thanks a lot for reading my questions.best,tino

Asked by tinosquare 8 years ago

Hey i have been looking around instructables and internet for a cool idea to use small empty gas cylinder. Answered

Does somebody know anything cool to do with them See the link for a picture.http://www.tooled-up.com/ProdImage/GAZC206BP.jpgthanks

Asked by sallost 8 years ago

Would it be possible and/or probable to achieve combustion by adding a small amount of water to a specified powder mixture?

I've been looking at instructables for the past few months but only recently joined.something that really interested was an instructable about creating fire from a drop of water https://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Start-Fire-with-Water/ and i thought that that was so cool. But, some of the comments suggested that one of the substances used, NH4, or Ammonium Nitrate, was now illegal. Is there possibly a better way of having that same type of powder that when it comes in contact with water, it will light on fire? If so, please tell me or give me a link to something else that will tell me how to do so (I don't even know if that actually was ammonium nitrate, but that is what the creator said.).

Posted by The Musicman 9 years ago

Wanted: Looking for EMPTY Nitrous Oxide Canisters

Looking for EMPTY, only empty, Nitrous Oxide canisters.. the small kind, for like airguns or whipped cream.

Posted by laminterious 9 years ago

PVC Pressure Canister

I want to build PVC Pressure Canisters what diameter pipe should I use? Naysayer's welcome to comment I would love to here the crazy and logical reasons this would not work Pfarmkid

Posted by Pfarmkid 5 years ago

film canister rocket?

i was thinking i could make a pvc pipe launcher that could fire those film canister vinegar and baking soda. you could put them in the barrel with the cap facing you and the body would fly out of the launcher. if you think this is a good instructable im happy to make it.

Asked by roketfueldgoat 7 years ago

Film Canister LED Flashlight on Howcast

Not long ago I got an email from Howcast telling me that they want to make a video of my Film Canister LED Flashlight... That was about more than 2 months ago...I search Howcast every day looking for the video but it didn't appear... I found only these instructions on how to make the flashlight... No Video !?!?! http://www.howcast.com/guides/2701-How-To-Make-a-Film-Canister-LED-FlashlightWell, check it out, please leave a comment there and here, tell me what you think about it...Thanks! Stanislav

Posted by comodore 9 years ago

Film Canister LED Flashlight Kit

I am selling my Film Canister LED Flashlight Kit. The Kit Includes: #Film Canister #5 ultra-bright white LEDs #Push switch #3V battery #wire #solder +instructions on building the flash light You will need: #soldering iron #electrical tape #wire cutter Cost: The cost of each kit will be $12, whit out the cost of shipping! When you tell me your location I will calculate the cost of shipping. Payment: I DON'T have PayPal so you just send the money to my address. When I receive the money I will send you the kit! What to include in PM: # Name # Amount of kits you wish to purchase # Email address (legitimate email address please) Once I receive your PM, I will send out the request to your email, and then you can purchase the kit. Once I receive the payment, I will ship the kit. If you have any questions, feel free to send me a private message. Thanks!!!

Posted by comodore 9 years ago

DIY airsoft grenade that isn't a wad of bb's duct taped to a firecracker?

 Okay, so here's what I'm thinking; an aluminum rod with holes in the sides for the bb's, the holes are a little larger than the bb's, and have a styrofoam chunk in each of them to hold the bb's in. Then a hole the size of the CO2 canister in the middle. I haven't worked out the timing mechanism yet, or even started to, but the firing mechanism would be a spring attached to a hammer with a spike on the end of it, pull the pin, hammer hits the co2 canister, boom. Any help/suggestions here?

Asked by iBurn 7 years ago

i am making a co2 powered potato gun and it will be running off of a 20 oz canister. how would i connect it to the gun?

If you are aware of how co2 canisters connect to the guns (they screw on) then what parts would i need to make that possible to make the connection to the gun?

Asked by jadams5 6 years ago

clay or wooden compressed air canister

Had the idea but don't know if it will work don't know if clay would hold the pressure it would be used to hold compressed air for mechanical uses to power primitive machines also if it would work what do you think the psi rating would be if not wood or clay what other primitive material do you think i could use

Posted by Pokemon03 2 years ago

whats the best size container to compress air into? Answered

Thanks for the advice on my earlier question guys but now I'm wondering what the best size to make my tank. Just so everyone knows I'm trying to improve a pneumatic  air soft gun I made a while back. I just want to know if a really small canister, like one with an aria of 12 square inches for instance, could launch my air soft bb just as fast as a 100 sq inch canister if they both had the same amount of pressure inside. If not then whats the best canister size in between the two to launch my air soft bb. Thanks for the help : )

Asked by inconceivable1 1 year ago

Need way to fill small air canisters (4-8oz) w/ bike pump

I've got a couple of older small CO2 canisters that I haven't used in a few years. I figured a good way to reuse them was to make a refillable canned air. The only problem is I don't have an air compressor. What I do have is a bike pump. Does anyone have any good ideas on how to (1) get air into the cylinder with the pump and (2) make some sort of release system, trigger or otherwise, to release it like canned air. I'm looking to use it to blow out electronics and the like. Yes I know about the moisture issue but not terribly concerned with it.

Posted by MrBippers 11 years ago

Convert an old canister vac to a harness/backpack vac?

Greetings Instructables Brethren! I've been getting along with all hardwood and no vacuum cleaner for 7 years now, and now with kids, I am admitting defeat, but still can't take that dreaded step into the spiral of ever-shortening planned obsolescence cycles for ever-more-expensive and flimsy junk. I'm looking for a way to turn an old Electrolux or other simple, repairable, and reliable antique canister vac, into a backpack vac. I wanted to do this Instructable myself, but between the 3 kids and being only armed with a dustmop and broom, I haven't got the time to do all the project development! Can someone out there with a few tools and a Monster Hacker / steampunk mentality, convert an old canister vac to a trusty Ghostbuster-style Backpack Duster? It will need a superlong cord, though most of those oldies-but-goodies did come with that.  And if you do this successfully, and can see fit to sell it on the Instructables Store, you probably have your first customer, right here!

Posted by megmaine 6 years ago

HFC M190 Dual-Gas Airsoft Pistol

I am selling my HFC M190 airsoft pistol.I was into airsoft for a little when I was younger, but have since outgrown it and am selling my gun.It has only been used about 8 times.Works perfectly, as I value my possessions. The gun can be rendered inoperable by removing the slide.The gun also can be taken completely apart.Its all metal, exact weight, and size as the gun its based off: Beretta 92The gun is semi-auto, and full auto variability.It uses green gas, (propane), but also can use CO2 canisters with the appropriate magazine.Included is:The gun (duh)One magazineExtra handle grips (wood)Auto-loaderTwo canisters of brand new Green GasOne canister of lubrication oil.ManualCarrying case$85 for everything PM me please.

Posted by bumpus 9 years ago

wiring led turn signals to flasher and fuse box?

Led signal lights turned on with regular car flasher relay canister and now with the led flasher relay i get nothing at all!!!!

Asked by kyriedanielle 8 years ago

CO2 canister discharge for arm mounted gun? Answered

I'm looking to modify a simple airsoft gun for the purposes of making the needed weapon props for a assassins creed costume a friend of mine is working on. With that said, the arm cannon/crossbow thing (sorry, I sadly never played the game!) is one I'm playing with now, and I got to thinking about taking a simple CO2 powered airsoft gun, and modding the barrel to take softer projectiles, and to be mounted to someones wrist. The question being: would the discharge from a CO2 cartridge harm someones hand? There will be leather between gun and wrist, by the way.

Asked by DoctorWoo 5 years ago

Dyson vacuum parts

Our Dyson vacuum finally broke after 10 yrs but the motor still works well. I've been thinking of using the motor and canister as the base for a shop vac. Has anyone had any experience working with Dyson parts? Any suggestions would be great. Thanks.

Posted by sage729 1 year ago

Fitting a hydrogen/oxygen reactor into a thermos? Or at least in a container about the size of a birdbath stand? Answered

EDIT: I decided that starting with steam instead of hydrogen would be much more efficient, much safer, simpler, and cheaper than reacting hydrogen. So if anyone knows if there is a way I can compress steam in a canister and not have it turn to water, and where to get the supplies for relatively cheap, that would be great! Merci! So my last question was how to bond hydrogen and oxygen to make water and condense it, and I got how to do that, but how hard would it be to fit this whole thing into a homemade thermos that has a screw-on hydrogen canister on the bottom? The hydrogen storage would be outside of the thermos in the canister, but there's still the reactor, condenser, and pressure release valve for safety. How hard would it be to fit it into the thermos (the thermos is about 1.5-2x the height of a store-bought thermos and about the same width, maybe a little bit wider)? If that isn't possible or logical, how about a birdbath stand? It would be a wide PVC tube reminiscent of a stone birdbath support, and would have a basin on top that contains the water after exiting the condenser. 

Asked by ALogan97 6 years ago

how do you build a grenade launcer?

It looks like a short sholder mounted rocket launcher only it takes the big co2 canisters, fires those nerf footballs that have tails, and loads from the top by cocking the front barrel forward and loading the round into the barrel before snapping it back. It was in a video on youtube.

Asked by erod8895 8 years ago

What can I do with Aluminium Chloride? Answered

 I recently made some Aluminium Chloride by electrolysis and evaporated the water off and powdered the crystals. I have about half a 35mm film canister full *That's a standard unit of measurement you know :-)* Just wondering what I can do with it. (Maybe try and get the Aluminium back?).

Asked by DELETED_zoltzerino 7 years ago

waterproof nontoxic adhesive?

I'm looking for an adhesive that will bond plastic to plastic, is waterproof, and is also non-toxic. I am attending an "anything but cups" party and am planning to use a Magic 8 Ball. I know that there is a canister inside which holds the die and blue liquid. I believe in order to take that out, I need to open the entire ball. I don't think that it will snap back together in a way that won't leak. Any suggestions would be appreciated!

Asked by sk8rgrrl 7 years ago

How do I make a HERF gun from a magnetron?

So I saw this post here and I too am feeling creative and wanting to make a portable HERF gun powerful enough to make a ripe piece of fruit explode within less than 1 second. So here's some ideas about how this thing works: 1. The device would use a an appropriately sized vacuum magnetron with an electromagnet The current fed to the magnetron's electromagnet would be a rectified sine wave at the resonant frequency(oscillating current flowing in but not out of the electromagnets coils). The purpose of this technique is to use resonance to turn the magnetron into an amplifier as well as an oscillator so it functions as a maser of sorts(not sure if this has ever been done before). 2. This thing is going to need a lot of power, and I have a solution: pneumatic electricty. The electricity would be produced by means of a high speed electric motor with permanent magnets(which can act as a generator)that is capable of spining several hundred RPM without frying itself. This genemotor would be driven by a turbine spun by by outflow from a cylinder containing compressed air. When the trigger is pulled, the cylinder valve opens and the air is released into a small turbine chamber and then expelled out an exhaust tube extending out the back of the gun. My 1st choice of material for the gas canister is titanium since it has to be both compact and capable of storing compressed air at up to 1000psi(or above). But the big unknowns are a)how much power will be needed to suplly the magnetron and the RF oscillator/rectifier, b) how fast the generator will need to rotate to produce that power ,c) how much pressure is necessary in the compressed air canister, and d)what material I will need the canister to be made of. Any suggestions? Thoughts? Comments?

Asked by YugZ0h0th 4 years ago

machine gun

Ok i have this book its the Military small arms encyclopedia for 1900-2000 of military small arm guns. In this book i was looking at the machine gun section and looked at one its a Skoda M1909 belt fed machine gun mounted on a tripod, and has a frontal shield protecting the operator. Im working on a design for it right now, although i am quite short of pieces because i need to make the cooling canister and the body, then the tripod. Then ill need a shitload of pieces for the belt

Posted by ClemensY290 9 years ago

How could I calculate the best lengths for a barrel of an air powered shotgun?

Hey there community, i have asked a couple questions here before and i appreciate your answers so very much. this is why i have come to you today again to ask anotger. first off, sorry fir my grammar and spelling errors  im on my phone. now on to my question... i am building an air powered shotgun because i love bb guns and pellet rifles. however, there is no pellet shotgun really out there on the market that is of good quality. so, i want to make my own. . i am following kip kays law rocjet paintball launcher design, but i want to put a barrel that has many .180 in. diameter tubes within it to contain the BBs. the thing that is going to powere it is a  12g co2 canister that is hooked into a paintball quick change cylinder. I know tyat i must do math in order to get the right chamber to barrel ratio. i want the enrrgy within the canister ti be put to use as efficiently as possible, that is so that i am not wasting energy and that i have enough energy. so, any help would be appreciated. thanks again

Asked by XBLmonster 5 years ago

need to know voltage for blue/red flashing leds what size resistors I need do I need capacitaor 9v battery

I'm making a red/blue flashing led bike light with a 9v batt what resisitors I need there are eight lights installed in a circle canister Plastic. The lights already flash when connected to a battery, what is the voltage for those kind of 2 ccolored leds. Thanks a LOT GUYS KEEP UP THE GREAT WORK i'M A BIG FAN FOR 1 YEAR NOW YOUR SITE HAS KEPT ME SANE pAUL

Asked by Zhenghui 8 years ago

World's Smallest Shockers For Sale

Well, not really, but I am going to make and sale tiny shockers on ebay soon, I just need a few questions before I start making, and selling them.Do you wanted the shocker naked (Like in the picture below) and make your own container for them?Do you want the shocker to be packed up in a film canister or box container with a battery holder and a switch?And the most important of all - How much are you willing to pay for them? I need an answer to that!And here is the link to make the shockers.. Build a World's Smallest Electronic Shocker!

Posted by Plasmana 9 years ago

Recycling from A to Z

I love to do what I can to help the environment, and I love helping others reduce their impact. I found an A to Z guide to recycling on the Real Simple website.Recycling made easyFrom aerosol cans to zippered plastic bags. I definitely recommend you read this.Aerosol cans. These can usually be recycled with other cans, as long as you pull off the plastic cap and empty the canister completely. .........Zippered plastic bags. Venues that recycle plastic bags will also accept these items, as long as they are clean, dry, and the zip part has been snipped off (it is a different type of plastic). photo from Realsimple.com

Posted by Brennn10 9 years ago

Advice for a hand crank ice cream maker please? Answered

I'm thinking of making a hand crank ice cream maker using an old hand drill I had and mounting that on a plastic bucket that'll be my ice bucket, then using some copper pipe I have lying around and soldering a dasher with some oak scrapers for the side. The main hurdle I'm hitting is where to find a canister for the actual ice cream. I'm wondering if I could safely use galvanized ducting, I'm planning to make sherbet on this as well, so will the acids react with it at all or is there some other hazard I should know about using ducting for this?

Asked by sugarworm 6 years ago

What to use for a small crucible?

I want to make a small backyard aluminium foundry, but I don't know what to use as a crucible. I've seen soup cans, but it says they rust away, and ceramic shatters. I've also seen things like the bottom half of a propane/co2 canister, but I don't have thing like angle grinders to cut it open.  Also, how would I make the foundry? I was thinking of laying down fire bricks in a pattern like this: (from top, looking down) []==== []  O []===O ====[] with mud to fill in the cracks. Would this work? Thanks, josh1324 PS. The two []'s and four ='s are just one brick.

Asked by josh1324 6 years ago

Homemade digital camera telescope adapter

After calling my last diy project a success I decided to give another one a shot and am attempting to make an adapter for my easyshare c813 but all I ever see through the cam viewer is just blackness. I was hoping maybe someone here would have had some experience with this and could maybe point me in the right direction. My adapter so far consists of a couple layers of a pringles can wrapped and tapped with electrical tape inside and out. Ive seen similar contraptions made out of film canisters that work just fine even on webcams but Im having no such luck myself.

Posted by kithso 9 years ago

remote control car (fisher tech nik)

I finally worked out most of the bugs in the car, and it works! the entire car is made out of Fishertechnik (though 1 of the pieces is modified). the back is pretty basic, just a motor with a gear that meshes with the one on the back axle. that ends up moving the car. the front is cool, instead of having the motor spin the front axle to turn, i hooked up the front to turn like a real car. the motor turns the steering wheel. that pushes a connector to the right or left(depending on which way you want to turn) and that turns the front wheels making the car turn. i also mounted a air cannon on it. that uses the on modified piece. you see, i used a film canister type thing with one end plugged up to make the cannon hook up. i then put two air connector things( i forget the name) into the back piece. i hooked pipes up it it from a pump. a spiecal valve lets air only go in not out, making air pressure in side of the cannon part. that eventually shoots the cap off. it goes about 10 feet. unfortanitlly the cannon is manually activated because the canister slowly leaks air from it. i used to have it hooked up to a motor but it did not give big enough pumps so the cannon would not fire. so does anyone want instructions? i know, kitemans law but it will take me for ever to make instuctions so i want to know if anyone will actually build it.

Posted by dsman195276 9 years ago

How to build an inflatable "brain" costume for stage - seeking ideas?

Hi all, a friend of mine asked me to help him design and build a costume for a stage show he's doing; he will be wearing a monster mask and needs an inflatable "brain" to suddenly inflate (note, he changes costumes every 5-10 minutes during the show so it's something that needs to be fairly portable and easy to change into). We tried using CO2 canisters with balloons, a good effect but not nearly big enough. I'm thinking about some kind of air pig with a valve that he can clip a connecting hose to. If anyone has done anything like this or has a good recommendation I'd love to hear! Many thanks, DAZU

Asked by damianzuch 5 years ago

CO2 88 gram modification

Ok my fellow creators I am asking for your help. CO2 project is making  portable air tools without lugging around air compressor. Have pipe work and connections already done and modified the CO2 adapter to puncture canister when screwed in to release air. The problem I am having is once I attach an air tool it work fine, but after I release trigger air keeps flowing through because of to much pressure. If I read correctly its about 100 psi. Thought about direct connect from tool to air but I would like to be able to switch out tools. Have air tool change connectors at end right now. I do have high pressure shut off valve. Its just trying to regulate air flow with amount of pressure this thing releases. To be honest eventualy may be weaponized. Thanx in advance for your input. 

Posted by mkirbysplace 4 years ago

The Dangers of Disney

I was trying to find out who was currently leading the US presidential polls, when I got distracted by an item on Freedom of Information. That led me to this article. Isn't the internet wonderful?Inhaling helium to produce an amusing squeaky voice (a favourite game for children in the United States and Europe) may not be the innocuous party trick it seems, according to emergency medicine physicians at the Wesley Center for Hyperbaric Medicine in Brisbane, Australia (Annals of Emergency Medicine 2000;35:300-3).Simon Mitchell and colleagues report the case of a previously healthy 27 year old man who inhaled helium and subsequently developed a stroke with transient blindness and radio-graphic evidence of cortical infarction. However, the man had inhaled the gas direct from a pressurised canister, whereas most children who perform the trick - to imitate the voice of Mickey Mouse - inhale the gas from helium filled balloons.The patient developed rigidity and lost consciousness within moments of inhaling the helium. On arrival at the emergency room 15 minutes later, he regained consciousness but was found to have complete visual loss and evidence of cortical infarction.PubMed ArticleI still haven't found out who's leading, though...

Posted by Kiteman 9 years ago

Hydrogen torch - anyone made or used one? Answered

I am working on my own "hydrogen batteries" to create a lot of hydrogen when I need it as a replacement for those propane/butane canisters when camping or fishing. Got some simple prototypes working for the gas creation but do struggle a bit with converting some orifices (is that eve a word?) and a torch to work with hydrogen. Not to mention the pressure regulation LOL Biggest problem so far seems to be the flame temperature. The gas is produce at up to 50°C and my current burners all start to glow red hot after just a short amount of time. Where they struggle to braze copper with propane the hydrogen is almost overkill ROFL Must be really close to these yellow acetylen bottles the plumber use. So big questions: Do I really need a different orifice hole and if so bigger or smaller than used for propane/butane? Do I really need a acetylene rated torch or can I just ignore the orange red color of mine when using hydrogen? I don't think it will melt but after a while the heat travels down into the handpiece too...

Asked by Downunder35m 1 year ago

Lamps from recycled parts, ideal example of a green theme.

Personally, i think this lamps look very cool, both items are made from various pieces of old electrical hardware.I love how the design is rather simple, but complicated by the parts used.Made by the Flickr user Qvidja50.He saysThe lamp on the left is fabricated from a railroad signal switching relay manufactured by the General Railway Signal Company in 1924. The perforated cylinders were originally ink canisters designed for high-speed fabric printing. The light on the right is made from a water-cooled dual processor from an Apple G5 desktop computer. Other elements include an hour meter, aircraft compass and 40W LED bulbs.Check out the full Flickr set.Personally, i like the 'hanging bulb' one. Firstly as i love the way the bulbs hang down, that and the use of a Powermac G5 heatsink is a win for an apple user fanboy like myself.For anyone looking to enter the Epilog laser cutter contest. Whom may have some parts laying around, this is a good place to start your research.I have an old iMac stand that caitlinsdad said would make a good lamp.- gmjhowe

Posted by gmjhowe 9 years ago

Building a Foundry?

So I've been experimenting with building a mini foundry made out of steel cans. I've experimented with several different fuels, fuel injection systems, oxygen injection systems, crucibles, and different metals. However, the only metal I've ever been able to melt with it is zinc. (if you don't know, zinc doesn't take alot to melt; only about 700F) My target metals are aluminum and copper, but despite over a year of experimenting, I've never been able to melt either. I would like to know what I'm doing wrong, or what I could do better. Here's the rundown of the furnace's construction: The fuel I'm currently using is propane. The foundry isn't big, (you could fit it in a backpack) so I just use propane canisters for torches with a normal output line on the end. The line runs to a small piece of glass laboratory tubing with a tiny nozzle on the end which is about 1 mm in diameter. The propane shoots out as a stream and mixes with air utilizing the venturi effect. The propane mix then shoots into a large metal pipe about 2 cm in diameter. It then bends up at a 90 degree angle and enters the furnace, which is in essence, a steel can with a hole in the bottom. inside this is a steel can cut in half with a thick wire through it to suspend it above the burner.  So what could be improved? When I run it at full blast, the whole furnace glows orange, but no metal melting happens...

Asked by tylervitale 6 years ago

How would one create a mechanism to increase humidity in an aquarium for a reptile?

I have a large (55gal) tank with a tortoise & a large water bowl for the creature.  The substrate is soil which is kept very moist but yet the humidity in the cage is not as high as I need it to be.  I was looking at buying a contraption to help with this problem & read a review of one product.  The person who wrote the review seems to think this same product can be made with simple, every day items, however, the description regarding how to do this is not so enlightening for me.  I will post this below & am interested in someone 'filling in the blanks' so to speak & elaborating AND/OR presenting new ideas/contraptions.  Thank you!!!!!   This humid air exchanger is a simple design that consists of a plastic canister, a sponge that hangs vertically from the lid, a nipple on the underside of the lid, and two nipples on top of the lid to connect the air hoses (one connects to the air pump and the other obviously would be the humid air output). Had I done some research into the design beforehand, I would have just made one of these myself out of a two liter bottle, old plastic peanut butter jar, etc... A person who has the requisite knowledge and common sense needed to properly take care of a reptile has all of the ability needed to construct one of these according to one's own ingenium. In about 15 minutes or less you could make your own device and save yourself $12 plus shipping in the meantime. Might even be a quick and fun little project to involve the kids with. In the end, yes, this an effective device which could easily be built out of readily available household items.

Asked by kbaleigh 5 years ago

where can i get a spray can-like spray nozzle made from metal?

Hi, im currently doing a project which uses a high volume, low pressure water motor and needs to spray a mist, using little pressure. Essentially what im after is something with the same specs as a regular aerosol can spray nozzle, except it needs to be straight, and made of metal, so it wont dissolve in the petroleum oil, or slip . ive tried using a normal spray nozzle but the pressure is too great and no matter how i go about binding the tube to the nozzle it always pops out, either because it grows soft and warps from the petroleum oil in the spray mix, or from the overal lubricating effects. either way, using spray can spray nozzles is bad. For another project ill be doing at the same time, which is for watering my plants, i still also need a straight spray head, prefferbly made of metal, as this one will have a bit more pressure behind it, and i need to be able to absolutely permanently attach the nozzle to a pvc plastic hose. I dont want to vary at all from my design, or compromise with a plastic version. What im after is a straight spray nozzle, aka, not bent, that sprays a mist of roughly more or less the same size and directionality, and angle as a earosol spray canister. for all intents and purposes, my water motor will be putting out perhaps 2/3rds of the pressure of your typical spray can, a normal spray nozzle works fine, so all im after is a metal equivalent, or anything that wont dissolve in petroleum oils, acetone or paint laquer. does anyone know where i can find such a thing? thanks

Asked by oldmanbeefjerky 4 years ago

Condom Band-Aid, Top-Down Blinds, Laser Light Show...

Sign-up for our newsletter here. Dec. 6, 2007 Welcome back! The holidays are almost upon us. To celebrate, Instructables and CRAFT Magazine are announcing the beginning of the Homemade Holidays Contest! Win a CRAFT boxed gift set, a robot holiday ornament, and other cool prizes. Check out these cool instructables! The World's Loudest Party Popper - The Most Portable Film Canister Cannon A powerful pocket-sized noisemaker you can make from re-used components.posted by Kiteman on Nov 14, 2007 How To Fool a Fingerprint Security System As Easy As ABC This instruction will show you how to fool most of the fingerprint security systems out there. posted by tycoyoken on Dec 3, 2007 Personal Wicked Laser Light Show Create your own personal laser light show with everyday objects. posted by FathomBoy91 on Dec 2, 2007 LCD Overhead Projector Get a free LCD from a dead laptop and turn it into your own video projector.posted by waterppk on Dec 1, 2007 Create Your Own Top-Down Blinds Create top-down blinds for a fraction of the cost of special order blinds!posted by jen_higginbotham on Dec 1, 2007 Win a laser cutter worth over $15,000! Building a climbing wall at the top of the stairs With a climbing wall in your home you'll be able to climb for 20-30 minutes every day with almost no setup time. posted by ewilhelm on Nov 30, 2007 How To Make A Ball Machine! Have you ever wondered about how to make enormous and Wondrous Ball Machines? Now you can design and build your own!posted by Trainman 2000 on Dec 2, 2007 Strong and Tough Platform Bed DIY Build a DIY platform bed that will last for years for $60-$90. posted by trz on Dec 3, 2007 Novel Use for a Condom! There's more than one way to use a condom to stay healthy.posted by LUCCHINA on Nov 22, 2007 How to make artArt-making is one of the easiest and most lucrative of human activities. Learn to make it in exchange for food, shelter, sex, fame and money.posted by randofo on Nov 28, 2007   Now go make something awesome, and I'll see you next week! - Eric

Posted by fungus amungus 10 years ago

UV filtration in your fish tank or small fish pond

Year after year the topic "I have a fish tank" seems to go more out of control. What was once a hobby just to have some fish can now be a design feature both in your home and inside the tank. Realistic looking lasdscapes, optical illusions that make you think the tank is much bigger and the list goes on. But one thing that now always pops up is the must have thing of UV filtration. Or to be precise: UV-C sterilisation! Now, if we trust Wiki and our big water suppliers then UV-C will literally kill anything alive that comes into contact with. So of course it would be a good thing to have for your tank - or not? UV-C is very dangerous for your eyesight and quite harmful for your skin! Looking into a proper UV-C lamp without protection means you can go blind! Even good sunglasses might not have enough protection in the UV-C range, so only use them for additional protection but never without and glass between you and the lamp! Don't be a fool! Treat UV-C seriously! You would not look into the full sun with your sunglasses and would not expose your eyes or skin to a powerful laser, UV-C is to be treated the same way! Let's start by using some boring text to explain the concept a little bit. On a large scale special and quite powerful systems are used to treat our drinking or pool water. Here special UV-C lights with a wavelenghts of 260nm or below are used to shine through the water passing by. There are two key factors here. a) the wavelenght b) the water flow rate and the corresponding time the water is in contact with the UV light To ensure all bacteria, viruses, algae and other harmful organics are dead the water must circulate for long enough so even the last water molecule had a few seconds of exposure. All this only works good with "crystal clear" water for obvious reasons as otherwise the UV has to be even more powerful to pass through. Single cell organisms literally crack into pieces similar to being exposed to gamma rays, more complex cells like algae have their cell membranes damages and the DNA suffers as well causing reproduction loss and early death. Even some chemicals break down, most importantly here chlorine based substances. Differences within the UV-C range! If you bothered to check Wiki about the topic of UV-C you will already know that only certain wavelengths within this spectrum will actuall be powerful enough to do what we want it to do. And here is the first problem for us hobby users. Most cheaply advertised "sterlisation lamps" you find in places like Ebay are actually totally useless. Stating to be selling a UV-C light to sterilze your water in such a case is still not considered to be fraud though. Simply because it still does what it supposed to do, just very slow and with very little effect. Only the so called "short wave" UV-C range is powerful enough! To avoid loosing business during the times of the biggest hype in 20 years no seller will actuall state the available wavelengths. That means without this info anywhere you can be certain the advertised lamp is of little to no use. Even those advertised to be short wave UV-C might not be the real deal. However, if a decent manufacturer is behind the actual lamp used it is possible to check the datasheet for these performance figures - but again most cheap systems come with no-name lamps inside. Check the prices for a reputable UV-C light with the same lamp fitting, e.g. G23 and you will see it might cost more than your entire system. Ok, you have a poper short wave UV-C lamp or consider getting a canister filter with one in it.... Never, ever test your lamp without proper protection!!!!! UV-C will damage your eye within seconds! If you system or lamp does not provide a viewing port or shine through area then you have to place a piece of glass between you and the light! UV-C won't be able to penetrate normal window glass but will pass through quartz glass. Place the lamp in a box and cover with the glass. How make proper use of UV-C sterilisation... The replacement lights are quite expensive, so let's see how to get the most out of them. As said before exposure is the key factor so the flow rate of the UV system must match tank size and flow rate of your filter system. Canister filters with a build in lamp should be designed to match but I will tell you later what to look for ;) Most of us will prefer to have a in-line system if there is already a good canister filter at work, so I will focus on those and rop in solutions. If you compare in-line system you might notice that some quite small and low power units claim to allow for the same flow rates as for example 40W units. Some are fraud and just want to sell while others use simple physics to make the claim true. A good system will utilise an auger like "ramp" that forces the water to circulate around the tube many times - causing up to ten times longer exposure rates. Others create this sprial effect more like a vortex with some diverters and modified inlets. The later seems to be less efficient though with low power lamps. An in-line system should be on the outlet side of your canister filter so the best quality water will pass through it. A drop in solution should be used alone and without the existing normal filter pump you might have in there. Ok, got it, but how do I actually use it now? Despite common thinking a UV-C system should not run 24/7 like your normal filter. You really only need it to solve problems you should not have in a healthy tank! It is not a magical solution to make your underlaying problems go away ;) Let's start with the most common reason someone buys a UV-C system: An algae or bacterial outbreak causing greenish or milky water. If that developed slowly over a period of weeks then you would be better off to do a good clean of the tank and filter plus a decent water exchange. A few drops of meds will do the rest. And if you constantly get algae growing on your glass, ornaments and plants then your nutrient levels and water quality is not right anyway and needs a good check. But of course there is also the problem of light - too much for too long and unwanted gree appears everywhere. If in doubt reduce the light power, shade out natural light or reduce the on time for your lights. Having said that we now face the problem of a sudden outbreak after introducing new fish or plants. If you don't have a quarantaine tank chances are that sooner or later you get unwanted or even harmful guest into your tank. Here the UV-C will be beneficial, which is why a canister filter with build in light should have a seperate switch or power supply for the light. After an outbreak or while introducing new life into your tank the UV-C will remove a lot of the things that we don't want to bring along. For new life I leave the light on non stop for a week, that is for a small 4ft tank with 200 liters. To control an outbreak it depends on how bad it is. I assume here you can still see the back of your tank  but that the water either appears greenish or slightly milky from bacteria. As a personal thing I prefer to to remove and clean my filter material before treating a severe outbreak. Once done I fill the filter with a mix of activate carbon material and fine filter wool. Reason for this quite simple: The outbreak causing stuff is already in your filter material and will be a constant source of re-infection. And since breaking down all this bad stuff causes even more bad stuff to be produced as biological waste we want to discard it properly once done. Using just fine filter wool and activated carbon also reduces the flow rate bit if compacted ;) Now we can turn on the light and pump and forget about it for a while. It is not recommended to run UV lights on a timer as you want them on all time to prevent short lifespan and have ongoing treatment of the water. Good idea to take a picture at the same of a day from now on to compare and check results. After 3 days the water should definately be clearer, if not then either your filter material is packed too losse or the lamp is no good. Once the water appears to be clear do a readin test - take a newspaper behind the tank and check if the text is clear - blurry means the water is still not clean. You will reach a point where the water quality will not further improve as much as in the days before. This is the time where you discard or clean out to dry your filter material and put the original stuff back in. The activated carbon should be discarded of course. You cleaned filter material will now need a certain time to grow enough good bacteria to go back to the old performance. During this time you should still leave the light on. In most cases with enough fish and plants in the tank a week should be sufficient. After that you can leave the light off and keep the tank fit and healthy. Special case: Algae everywhere! Especially after getting a new plant you can end up with quite pesty algae growth. Be it these long ghost hair types or in a bad case the black stuff growing on plants, ornaments and the glass. I have even seen tanks with algae covering the entire bottom of the tank causing the gravel to look like carpet. Here I can only advise to set up a quarantaine tank for your fish. Then remove all infested material for manual removal and cleaning. Infested plants should be cut clean and what can be boiled should be boiled in water for a few minutes. Now start scrubbing in the tank with ongoing water replacements. I prefer to let everything settle over night without any bubbler or pump running. This way I can suck up a lot of sediment the next day. If you can remove all plants and fish you can now use hydrogen peroxide and add it to your tank water. But this is only feasable for small desktop tanks. Before using the UV as above to cure an outbreak you should consider all water one last time. Allow at least 2 weeks with ongoing water checks before adding plants back in and another week before placing your fish back in the tank. The week before adding fish should be used to monitor the plats for any signs of algae you might have missed - if you find any remove it! A week after the fish is back in you can turn off the UV light. Underwater UV-C light!? In most online stores you will find quite cheap UV lights to be advertised as underwater or in tank use. Although it might sound tempting you should be well aware of the dangers of using them. The glass of your tank will block the harmfull UV rays but the water surface won't, so either don't ever look at it or use proper sunglasses with real UV protection. Apart from the dangers to you these lamps are not just cheap in price but also cheaply produced. That means there is no way of telling how much or how little UV-C is produced. If they are good then you still need to know in what type of tank setup you can use them. As plants can tolerate a bit of UV a placement as far away from the nearest plant should do, especially if you can place a bubble wall betwenn light and plants. The fish is another thing as some seem to be unaware of the danger in their tank. This means they can get too close to the light but I have not found any articles explaining how harmful UV-C is to fish or their eyesight. I guess once your fish starts to bounce into everything you know... ;) My advise is to stay away from the idea of hanging a UV-C lamp in your tank, the risk for you and your tank is just not justified. If you need to go cheap then get two or thre of these lamps so you have spares. But use them externally ;) Meaning: Take a UV proof plastic container of small size and place the light in there. To be really safe tape the lid and all holes for the hoses with black tape. Place the container above the water level of your tank and if you only have an internal filter pump push a suitable sized hose into the outlet to feed into you canister. Check how high you pump can make it and place the outlet or overflow slightly below this level. When to change the light? If you made it all the way down here then you might already had the benefit of using light to "cure" your tank. Now we are faced with the high replacement cost for the lamp itself. Ususally only flouroscent tubes are used. It is always good to check after purchase what type of lamp and manufacturer (if there is one) was used. In some cases the system itself is like an inkjet printer: Just a cheap way to make you buy the consumables. Let's say you new in-line filter was priced at $100 to have a nice round number, some are cheaper some much more expensive. The lamp used might be an exotic type and not even be available easy, so before you buy your system check where you can get spares, not just the lamp of course. A replacement lamp can be as ceap as 20 bucks or cost even more than your system if you need to order it elsewhere. The quartz glass sleeve can break too meaning you then need a lamp and cylinder. Going with a reputable brand and paying a bit more certainly helps to get spares in the future. Let's just assume you either got your system in bulk due to the price of replacement lamps or can get them at a reasonable price. UV-C lamps are not like your normal flouroscent light tubes you have around or maybe even on top of your tank. Consider them like the tubes used in the now unhealthy tanning beds. After a certain amount of time they no longer produce enough of the short wave UV light that we need. As you can't see it and most of us won't have the means to specifically measure it we have to trust manufacturers recommendations. For most good brands the numbers are the same: 8000 hours max. Considering the costs it does make sense to keep written track of the usage. Not too hard since we won't use them like normal lights but instead have them on for a week or more without turning them off. I recommend to have a replacement at hand long before you need it. A lamp can fail premature, crack or simply burn out. The 8000 hours are based on 24 hour usage, so one day on, one day off. This could mean for us the lifetime can be slightly longer but I would not go over 9000 hours. As a rule of thumb: If the water does not show good signs of getting clear on day thre the lamp is due.

Posted by Downunder35m 5 months ago

Mozzies and how to keep them outside....

Down here the winter was too short and not cold enough, meaning insect life is literally exploding in numbers already. The house I moved in has badly installed flyscreens on the doors and windows, most likely due to the fact that the house is moving up and down in several points... Anyway, due to the gaps everywhere I found myself with the problem that the mozzies covered my entire front and back door areas. With an unsupporting landlord not even allowing me to replace the bad flysreens with proper ones at my cost I was left with less invasive options to tackle the problem. Before you ask: No I am not even allowed to fix holes in the flyscreens covering the windows :( My next step was to check the local garden center for some natural solutions. Lemon grass seems to do the trick for the inside, the smell also keeps flies away really good. But I had to put the pots in the garden as the ongoing smell gives me headaches. It also did very little to prevent the mozzies from coming inside when I opened any outside door for a few moments. Only way out was to get rid of the mozzie population having daily meeting around my doors. At the local hardware store I found several "surface sprays" and they all stated to be very effective against cockroaches, spiders and other crawling insects - too bad I don't have a problem with them LOL After asking I was informed that those sprays do little to nothing for flying insects, including mozzies and that I would waste my money. During my next shopping trip I got desperate and grabbed a can of surface spray from Aldi. Was under 3 bucks, so I had nothing to loose compared to the 40-80 bucks for a canister of "the good stuff" from the hardware store. At the checkout an old lady asked if I moved into a new house with cockroaches when she saw the spray and I said that I only have a problem with mozzies. She recommended to eat more bananas ROFL Back home it was already too sunny at the front door for the mozzies to show up so I waited till the late afternoon and sure enough I found the area covered with them again. The spray annoyed them badly but I kept spraying all cracks, surfaces and also the gaps at the roof line. Kept checking for a while but could not see any real effect on the mozzies other than swarming around me and trying to suck my blood. Next morning I found the floor at the door covered by a carpet of dead mozzies! I don't mean a few, I am talking enough to take the brrom to clear them up :) Now for the past 5 days the body count is going down quite fast while my door stays free of mozzies. Still have them flying around in "normal" numbers but I can get in and out without a swarm of them following me. Since the product is plant based and considered to be without any side effects on humans or pets I will see how long it lasts and then just spray again - this three dollar can should last throughout the summer... You might wonder why I go through all these troubles... Long story short, I am quite allergic to the bites. Happened as a kid when during a warm summer night at a friends place I got so many bites that the doc gave up counting. He reached over 200 just by counting my head and face to the shoulders... Now I am allergic to the bites, the itch lasts over a week and thebite area swells up to the size of a 50 cent coin with blisters forming after 2 days. You might not get it hat bad but if you do suffer from the bites I found two remedies that help with the itch and reaction: a)  BBQ igniter (the manual push type without batteries)! They work like the expensive clickers you get at the pharmacy but last much longer - plus they require more force. The rounded tip is placed directly onto the bite and when you push the button in to "get shocked" two things happen. First the pressure forces the soliver that causes the reaction into deeper skin layers where there are less receptors for the itch. Secondly the high voltage breaks down certain parts of the soliver making it far less effective to cause harm. Downside is that you might like the shock in certain areas and that you should shock at least 10 to 15 times to get a real benefit from it. b)  Hydrogen Peroxide (3%) You put a drop of H2O2 directly onto the bite or for difficult areas use a soaked cotton bud. Rubbing it in with a cotton bud for a minute or two works best IMHO. You might see your skin turn white or feel a slight burn right where the bite is - that is normal and harmless. The hydrogen peroxide releases oxygen into the skin - this turns the skin white for short period of time. But the oxygen also breaks down the soliver and the byproducts of the body reaction to it. Works great for horse fly bites too. Downside here is that you should not overdo things and that you should test first how sensitive you are to the reaction. A good test is to apply it onto a small cut or scratch to clean it. If you tolerate that then won't even feel it on a mozzie bite. I hope some of this will help you through the summer ;)

Posted by Downunder35m 1 year ago

The more natural way of cleaning things...

At my workplace we basically have a specific cleaner or cleaning product for every task you can think of. From glass over stainless to plastics and desinfectants for lots of different surfaces. After a quick look into my cleaining cabinet at home I started to wonder if I am doing something wrong as I only have a few cleaning things for my use. Asking my friends also showed they have a big bunch of cleaning chemicals, plus the bottle of bleach that everyone down here has. So I though: Your grandma only had a few cleaning products and you learned most of things you need to clean from her. Considering I grew up healthy I guess she must have done something right.... Let's clean up with the cleaning myths, shall we? 1. What cleaning chemicals do you have? For quite a few people the list would start something like this: Dishwashing liquid, window, cleaner, bathroom cleaner, soap scum remover, floor cleaner, oven cleaner, several desinfectants.... If that is true for you too than we might be on to something already. 2. What cleaning chemicals do I really need? This is a good question as everyone is a bit different but I assume a healthy household here. Of course we need certain things to clean our various surfaces properly but it is far less than waht you have been told by the TV commercials.... These days we like to think if there is a special cleaner for something then of course we have to use it to clean properly. Unless you have trades people walking through with their wet dogs several times a day and see dust storms at least twice a week you really only need a few things. So let's get to the basics: 3. Old style cleaning and what you need for it - really the only stuff required to keep all clean and sanitised. a) Methylated spirit b) Clear ammonia - cloudy ammonia works too but be aware that the added soap can be a problem that leaves streakes c) Hydrogen peroxide - pool grade to be cheap in the long run d) Orange oil - citrus oil works great too if you prefer a different smell e) Soap - just basic soap, these stinky, slightly yellow and hard bricks - no fancy smelly soap ;) f) Several cleaning brushes but you should already have those g) Windows cleaning tools - the basic microfibre cloth and squeegee will do h) Several microfibre cloths - bigger ones for floors and walls, smaller for windows and the rest I) Yesterdays newspaper j) Baking soda With those few things we have everything to clean whatever comes up and if bought in bulk comes down to a few cents per bottle compared to a few dollars when you buy all the stuff you don't need. Lets figure out what the stuff does and how to use it: 4. Mixing and what to use it for.... The alcohol is a really good remover for everything greasy and also desinfects the surfaces. A quick spray and wipe on your bench is all that you need to remove oily residue or the mess from the kids. Mixed with a bit of soap and water (about 50-50) also removes sticky stuff like jam or syrup. If we use about 50ml of alcohol, 50ml of clear ammonia and 900ml of water we get one liter of really good window cleaner. The modern way is to use microfibre for the cleaning and a squeegee to get it dry, the old way just uses a cloth and then the window is "polished" with some old newspaper. The black ink reacts with the alcohol and form a mild abrasive while the paper soaks up the moisture, the result is a prefectly clean window in under 3 minutes. Orange oil is not only a powerful degreaser but also lifts old dirt or even glue residue. Used directly it will get rid of the remains from sticky tape, stickers and everything that other cleaners fails to get off - smoth surface and non soaking of course. 50ml of it with 50ml of ammonia and 100ml of alcohol per bucket makes a good florr cleaner and your house smells nice when done. Works best if you can use a microfibre cloth or floor wiper to dry the surface with it. In the kitchen we can find a lot of surfaces that are greasy and we already covered that bit, so lets get to the though stuff. The kitchen sink can become dull looking although it is not scratched. This is due to hard water, food residue, soap and other things. Best is of course to wipe it and dry it after use but who really does this every day? A pot scrubbing pad with some baking soda on it does the trick here. Make the pad nly moist and sprinkle the baking soda on it. Rub over the stainless and if too dry add a few drops of water. Once done rinse off and enjoy the difference. For hard to clean or badly turtured sinks you can try a ball of aluminium foil and coke - use it like a polish. The oven is often our worst nightmare. The cooktop is not far behind. But even here we can have a chance to clean without too much hard work or bad chemicals. Of course the best way is to prevent these spills and boil overs ;) For the cooktop some hot water and baking soda will soften the baked on stuff. Simply remove what you can with the hot water and then sprinkle the surface with baking soda. Cover all with the paper towels and if not wet enough add a bit more hot water so all shets are soaked. Leave ove night and wipe clean the next day. The oven is a bit of a problem once the side and back wall are filthy. If baking soda with a pot scrubber won't do the trick get some of these steel pads with soap in it. The soap in them is special in terms that you only need a little bit of water to remove almost anything with them - and they won't scrath enamelled surfaces. On the bottom we often have badly burnt in things that are next to impossible to fully remove. I suggest to cover the same way as the cooktop but also to add some orange oil. Just make a thick paste of baking soda and orange oil and wrok it into the soiled surface. Cover with wet paper towels and leave over night. Now you don't want to flood your oven, so that means you need to use a sponge or thick cloth that is big enough to wipe off the surfaces you soaked the day before. As the orange oil really is oil it pays off to use some alcohol in the cleaning water to get rid of the oil and grease a bit easier. Don't expect to see a clean and shiny surface after one treatment if the oven was badly misused, you might have to repeat the procedure a few times. If in doubt use the soapy steel pads for last clean and before soaking over night again. Three to four treatments are usually enough to clean even the worst disaster that can happen in an oven unless you baked it in for months... 5. Desinfecting and mouldy spots.... As said, the methylated spirit is basically just pure alcohol and kill almost anything that might harm you. But sometimes that just is not enough. And who really wants to spend an hour or longer to clean some mouldy spots in the shower or try to cover the smell by spraying room freshener? As a lst resort for everything I use Hydrogen Peroxide. The supermarket grade is only 3% and usually badly overpriced, so I suggest to get a small canister of pool grade peroxide. Do yourself a favour and ask them to install a tap on it - you don't want to do it yourself unless you already know how bad pool grade peroxide is! For your own safety when handling it I strongly recommend wearing long rubber gloves, nitrile is better but please no latex as it could start to burn when getting in contact with the peroxide. For high grade desinfecting or the removal of mouldy areas I recommend to dilute 1:5, one part of peroxide to 5 parts of water. Only for the mould removal on tiled, plastic, glass or metal surfaces you can use the peroxide pure from the container - but please add face protection when cleaning! Some spray bottles work with peroxide some just start leaking badly, if you want try an old bottle of chlorine based cleaner after really flushing everything out. The peroxide breaks down any organic material it comes into contact with, so not just the mould you want to remove but also your skin or eyes if you allow contact. On the skin you see white areas after contact and they won't go away until all the oxygen in the skin is gone that was left by the peroxide. If you act too late it means you might loose some skin flakes. The sure sign of overlook exposure on your skin is a burning sensation in the area - this only happens when the amount was big enough or your clothes got soaked. On your surfaces to clean you will notice bubbles forming quite quickly - this mean the peroxide is reacting with something, usually organic material. Let it bubble... Once it stops bubbling the surface is either sterile or the peroxide is used up, if it bubbles when adding fresh peroxide onto it then there is still crap left ;) It really helps to brush off the surface after each treatment as a lot of loose material will be flushed out when rinsing off. Once it looks and smells clean again it usually means it is clean :) 6. Special case: Wood... Be it wooden floorboards, furniture or just your chopping board - always try what the manufacturer recommends first! Untreated wood should never be cleaned with anything wet! Sealed wood, like floorboards or things with varnish on it to make it water proof can be cleaned the same way as mentioned above - but I would leave out the ammonia as some wood treatments simply won't tolerate it and might go dull instead of returning nice and shiny - spot testing required if you think you have to use ammonia as well! Orange oil itself makes a great furniture cleaner if the surface is smooth and sealed, but if it is not it means the oil soaks into the wood together with the stuff you want to clean off! It also takes off several paints and types of varnish if you work it hard enough and give it some time, so avoid this and be quick instead of forgetting to finnish the job ;) Always try to wet the surface as little as possible and wipe fully dry as soon as possible! Ok, good start but what is the real benefit? For me the actual benefit is that I know what I am using and exposing myself to. Just reading what is in most cleaning products we find at the supermarket makes me want to clean again after using them, just to remove their residues... I admit it might take some time to get used to mixing and just having a few ingredients for the cleaning but it does work great. Especially if you or your kids are already sensitive to certain chemicals or just of poor health in general you might see the benefit quite quickly. Some people really don't like the smell of ammonia but unless you are sensitive to it there is nothing to worry when using the household grade as we always dilute it down massively anyway. A good way to avoid the worst stink is by mixing it outside with the wind from behind. I won't say that certain commercial products are bad, harmful or not good enough for the job. Some are actually worth to have in some cases but I just say it is better to only have a hand full of chemicals that are not too bad instead of an endless list of things were we don't even know what's inside. For me the best is your surprise when it actually works better than you expected and report your findings here.

Posted by Downunder35m 1 year ago

Hydrogen Peroxide at home and in the Garden

Although the topic is quite old for some of us and mostly because I am too lazy today to make an Instructable: Hydrogen Peroxide ! Back in the day Hydrogen Peroxide was mainly known for the ability to bleech your hair, later it replaced chlorine based products for the preparation of paper and organic fibres. For me it is a good opportunity to go back in time and to pull out some of the remedies my grandparents already used. Who knows, there might be something that helps you or you might know other good uses that I failed to mention here, so feel free to comment. First off: What actually is hydrogen peroxide? We could check Wikipedia but I think it is enough to say that it basically water with an added oxgen mulecule which turn the stuff into a quite powerfull oxidizer. When hydrogen peroxide reacts the added oxygen is released and the normal water remains. Precausions and health risks. In the normal supermarket form hydrogen peroxide comes at a strenght of just 3%. This is just enough for wound treatment or cleaning off a fresh and small stain. The stuff you can buy at your hair dresser comes in concentrations of 5-15%, above that it is of little use to them. Pool grade peroxide however can come as high as 50%. It often requires a permit of at least leaving a copy of your drivers license to buy such high concentration but well worth it price wise. The downside of anything above 5% is a risk for your skin, eyes and airways. So when handling hydrogen peroxide you should waer long sleeve rubber gloves, safety or better swimming goggles and make sure that you don't create vapour by spraying it against the wind direction. Having water at hand to dilute and spillage on your skin is always good. What happens to me if things go wrong? Well, if handled correctly nothing should go wrong but of cause the worst would be eye contact. Getting concentrated hydrogen peroxide in your eyes means extreme pain and even with rinsing it out asap eye damage is more than just possible. Again: wear proper eye protection and if spraying use a filter mask, the paper type is enough!!! Nothing immediate happens on sking contact but a few minutes after contact the skin will turn slightly brown or goes white. This is caused by the oxygen release into your skin cells, if washed off quickly after noticing the discoloration will fade after a few hours. Prolonged exposure of the skin can cause skin cells to fully discolor and living cells might get damaged - a burning sensation is usually the sign that you need to wash the area now ;) Enough bad stuff said, let's see what we can do in the garden.... Fungal infection of your old roses or on your fruit trees? Sometimes the weather does not like our plants and by the time we discover a fungal infestation it is usually pruning time. There are commercial producta available that work quite well but especially the copper based ones tend to do more harm than good in th long run. An alternative is a solution of 10-20% hydrogen peroxide. Spray generously over all affected parts of the plant, leaves, twigs, stem and all. Make sure everything is properly wet! In some cases the fungus can act as a water replellent and it seems impossible to get any of the solution to wet these areas - a drop of dish washing liquid into the bottle will fix this! Watever runs off can be left as it only helps to get oxygen into the soil but of course you should not soak the area... Leave it on for about an hour, around 20 minutes if it quite warm. Rinse all off with clear water and repeat every 2 days for 5 treatments all up. After this time wait 2 or 3 weeks and check if the fungus still gows in some hard to reach areas. If so then repeat the treatment there until satisfied but wait another 2 weeks every 5 single treatments. In some areas of the world certain types of fungus on roses are refered to as "rust". ----- Moved into a new home and the garden beds smell really bad? The last house I moved into had a previous occupant with a big dog but no time to clean after his pet. The garden beds looked dead and I mean so dead that I could not even find weeds in them. And the smell was a distinct mix of old dog poo with lots of fresh cat poo mixed in it - the perfect outdoor pet toilet :( Trying to dig it all under made me recover that the top soil was more §$&*# than soil. I had to get rid of the bacteria of all the poo and somehow neutralize a lot of the unwanted "nutrients". The solution was to first loosen all the soil as deep as I could go. Then I added rice straw (but anything straw like or dry grass will do) to mix it through. At this stage I wished I had a gas mask LOL All up the contaminated garden beds covered about 20square meters. I got a 10 liter canister of pool grade hydrogen peroxide, from this I diluted down with 20 liters of water and a few drops of dishwashing liquid to help with the soil wetting. All was applied as evenly as I good with a watering can and then the area was covered with some tarp to try keeping as much oxygen on and in the soil as possible. A day later the tarp was removed and all beds watered with hose to drowning point. This watering was repeated every 3 days for 3 weeks to drive out all the excess and unwanted nutrients from the poo. The smell was already gone except for some cat urine residue which disappeared after some rounds of watering. Three months after the initial treatment I did some soil tests, added nutrients were required and the next season I had vegetables growing :) ----- Planting? Whether from seeds or seedlings, give hydrogen peroxide a try! I use a 5% solution to soak the potting mix I use before putting my seeds in it. Not only does it kill a few of the unwanted things that might still be in there but it adds a lot of oxygen into the soil, which gives the seeds a much better start. For seeds I use a 5% solution as well but only leave them in for about an hour before placing them between some wet paper towels until they start germinating. This way I can be sure all harmful bacteria and fungal spores are dead and I can use a sterile seed to keep going. Might just be my opinion but I think the germination rate is better and seedling in comparison start growing faster and stronger. Home uses.... As we learned before hydrogen peroxide, at least in higher concentrations is a powerful way to remove fungus. In our bathrooms we often have the problem that the ceiling starts to develop black spots as in the colder times water condenses here and takes a long time to dry off. If you now go to your favorite hardware store they will recommend the use of a chlorine based product, basically bleach... And although it does the job it also means your house will stink for days and if you scrub the ceiling you will get it on your sking and stink too. Hydrogen peroxide at 20% or higher concentrations can be sprayed onto the cleiling :) Of course you will need good protection for this and all things color should be removed, like towels or floor mats. By protection I mean a minimum of swimming goggles, a tyvek suit or similar to cover all exposed skin areas and at least a paper dust mask, better a filtered respirator like you use for spray painting or using insecticides. If you have a spray bottle with an adjustable nozzle then a stream is far better than a spray mist!! Not only is your exposure far lower but it much easier to wet the ceiling quickly. Wet all affected areas, then leave and the room, close the door and take off all clothes you used t protect you. The clothes can be left out to dry but double check that you had no soaked spot where your sking might have been in contact - if so rinse the skin with plenty of water! It will take some time to work and then dry, so best to do this in the summer time or if during the colder times you need to make sure the room is porperly heated and aired out to dry! Repeat until all black spots are gone, really bad areas will leave a permanent discoloration looking like a slight brwonish color is the ligh it right otherwise you won't see it. Once fully dry it is best to scrape off all lose paint and then to use a acrylic based sealer before giving the ceiling a fresh coat of white. The sealer will prevent the water to penetrate more than the paint level and if you get the fungus back on the paint it is far easier to clean ;) ----- Carpet cleaning.... When moving into a new rental with carpet on the floor you often are left with areas indicating the carpet might be "clean" but the underlay certainly is not. You can fix the underlay but you certainly can make sure all harmful stuff is gone from the carpet. Carpet cleaning machines can be hired but often much cheaper if you buy the "recommended" cleaning product with it. Rent is usually based on a daily base and price depends on how much cleaner you need. If you only want to desinfect the carpet which otherwise looks mostly fine than go for the smallest pack available and use it to spot clean areas you want cleaner first. For the desinfecting part I recommend to test how high you can go with the concentration of the hydrogen peroxide before using it on a big scale - keep in mind the carpet will never be fully dry and the remaining peroxide will continue to act! Test a 10% solution first before you go higher as you don't want to buy 30 liters or more of pool grade peroxide - just trust me on that one and only try to buy this much you do want to get into trouble a few days later! If 10 percent solution left on the carpet does not cause any bleaching of the fabric (unwanted bleaching that is) you can try higher for spot cleaning in demanding areas. A good spot to try the solution is under the cover or duct outlets, under these joining bars where carpet changes to tiles (if you can lift them off) or in wardrobes if the carpet goes inside. There are two way to treat your carpet once the general cleaning is done. a) use a garden sprayer or similar to wet the carpet This is good for single room treatment like for the baby room but especially on thicker carpets it requires a lot of solution and can become costly. Once wet leave for at least 30 minutes so the peroxide can do its thing, then use the machine with either the solution filled or just to dry off the carpet. I recommend to use the peroxide solution in the machine as it allows for better penetration and it will remove more soiled solution this way. If your catching container starts bubbling like mad it means you have a lot of §$%&#+ in the carpet and it might be best to first clean it all with the normal carpet cleaning agent before using the peroxide again - again tesing on smaller areas can help wasting the peroxide. If you need to store prepared solutions than it is best in a cold place. It will take several hours on an otherwise clean carpet for the peroxide to fully disappear so it best to use shoes and prevent skin contact during that time - especially if a baby crawls around ;) ----- Toilet.... We don't want to talk about it but everyone needs to clean their toilet sooner or later. For most things in there using the toilet brush when it happens will keep things clean and healthy. But what if someone in the house is sick or with a weak immune system? You could use all sorts of commercial cleaners and desinfectants but a wipe with wet towel or cloth soaked in a 10% solution of hydrogen peroxide will quickly eliminate all harmfull things on your seat, lid or bowl, including the buttons to press and the door handles ;) Just wipe and leave it wet for a minute or two then wipe again and ry - done! Personal use I always pack a small bottle of supermarket grade peroxide when going off road or camping trips. Although we now have modern desinfectants that won't stink or otherwise harm you I still prefer the old stuff ;) If you are far from civilisation than the last thing you want to need is medical attention for something that started as small as a scratch or graze.... Out in the unkown wilderness you will never know if the rockk you just crash landed on was used as a urinal by a fox the night before... A bit of gravel left in your skin might contain harmful bacteria... A cut with your own knife?? - What did you all cut since the last proper cleaning of the blade? You see where I am going here, a small thing might turn into something really nasty a day or two later. If you clean a freash and minor wound properly and then rinsie it with hydrogen perodixe most if not all harmful leftovers will be killed by the releasing oxygen. Of course this pretty much useless on bleeding wounds or where it is obvious that you won't be able to remove all debris from the wound - here it means you trip is still over in favour for proper medical treatment. The thing is that hydrogen peroxide was basically abandoned for all wound treatment once the modern "cleaning aids" became available as the peroxide will not only attack harmful things but also living tissue. The claims goes as far as causing bad scar tissue, damage to blood vessels and even "burning" of the tissue. One big problem I have with all these claims is that they were never really mentioned until the new meds came out. IMHO exposure time and how you use it it the key - common sense if you ask me. Noone should ever soak a wound in peroxide, if it is that big that you need to soak it you need medical attention anyway. And as said you should rinse the wound, that means all remaining liquid should be allowed to flow off - this will only leave a minor amount of peroxide in the wound and the exposure time will end with once all oxygen is released. For minor wounds I only use a paper tissue or cotton bud soaked in peroxide and wipe the wound.... ----- Smelly feet? Ok, maybe not the best way to start a conversation but we all know what sneakers do to our feet in the summer... Insoles with copper and activated carbon will help a lot and at least "cure" your sneakers while they are off your feet and have time to dry. But the smell is actually cause by bacteria growing from everywherey in your sneaker to your sking, actuall starting at your sking... If you wear your sneakers for long periods of time time or even whenever possible and also suffer from a bad smell hydrogen peroxide might be able to help you. Most sneakers will tolerate a machine wash and should come out germ free, if that is no option pack them in a sealed back and leaven them in the freezer over night - this will kill all bacteria and remove the smell. Now to break the endless cycle you need to remove the bacteria from inside your skin. So daily sock changes, freezing shoes and washing feet is a must! Your feet will really benefit from a foot bath in a 5% solution of hydrogen peroxide. To keep costs at a minimum use a container that is just the right size for your feet and prepare the solution from pool grade peroxide. I an ideal case you should not need more than 2 liters but all used product can be stored cool and re-used the next day, after that you need to make a new batch. Keep your feet submerged for at least 10 minutes. This will allow a deep penetration of the skin but might result in some white spots that will disappear after a few hours. Consenquent foot baths can be reduced to 5 minutes. After about a week you should notice that wearing your sneakes no longer causes and bad smell and you can stop the treatment. Freezing the sneakers over night, dialy (or more) sock changes and daily, proper cleaning of your feet should prevent any further bad smells :) ----- Bleaching your hair Althoug it was done for many years I really can't recommend using hydron peroxide for this purpose! Any concentration strong enough to have a proper effect in a reasonable time will at least cuase skin irritation. Back in the days they said your burning scalp is what you need to endure to get blonde hair :( And as said already you really don't want to get that stuff into your eyes... General uses If you have a fruit based stain then cahnces are hydrogen peroxide will remove it, especially if fresh. Even at supermarket concentration repeated application and proper drying off with a paper towel or similar will remove even red wine or beetroot stains. ------ Blood... On you skin blood is easy removed with cold water, same on other surfaces but washing off is no option a wet cloth or cotton piece will work fine. Hydrogen peroxide is good if things need to go fst or if the surface is porous, here the releasing oxigen will drive out the blood with the bubbles. ----- Fish tanks... If you love your tank then you really hate to medicate or even worse have a bad algea infestion, especially the stuff of the black kind. A change to activated carbon filter material is always recommended after a medical treatment to remove all leftovers from the system. However, certain medication simply won't be affected by a carbon filter and stay in the system until fully used or broken down otherwise. Especially in bigger tanks a partial water change is often out of the question as it would cause too much additional stress to the fish and plants. Hydrogen peroxide can help to break down most if not all remains of the used medication while at the same time adding more oxygen to the water. To be sensitive and safe in all enviroments I recomment to calculate the concentration based on the volume of your tank and to add the required amount of peroxide very slowly into the outgoing water stream from your pump. By slowly I mean in terms of a slow drip if using solutions over 10% to be added to the tank. If in doubt remove a suitable amount of tank water into a bucket and add the concentrated peroxide to reach the final tank limit. I strongly recommend to stay below 2% in favour over additional treatments a few days later if required. That means the diluted solution you add should be entered into the tank slowly if in doubt add a glass full every few minutes. For the treatment of the dreaded black algea you do the same 2% solution but be prepared that it will take several treatment until you see them die off. If you can then it is best relocate the fish for a few days so you can use a stronger solution of 5-8% just with the plants left in the tank. When transporting fish in a bag it can pay off to add a little bit of 3% peroxide to the bag to give additional oxygen for transport. I do this maually for every fish I buy from a store so I can be sure all fungus and bacteris is killed of before I introduce it to my tank. Really helps to prevent loosing a lot of fish just because you added one or two more to your tank ;) For the normal sized transport bags I use a good shot glass full of 3% peroxide in case you wondered. ----- Fridge and freezer Be it after long use or because you bought one second hand - once empty and warm some of our colling gadget just smell bad. A good clean with a hot water and your favourite cleaning agent is a good start, no need for aggressive stuff ;) If clean but still smelly, like after a power failure with fish in it you might want to go one step further. Best option is to use a spray bottle and a peroxide solution of at least 15% here. Use proper protection as mentioned above and spray all surface with the solution until soaked. What you can take out you take you take out, clean properly and then wipe or brush with the same peroxide solution. Bare aluminium should be handled with caution as in some cases it can oxidise badly, leaving a white and not removable crust behind. Here it is best to wipe and then wipe again with a cloth soaked in clear water to limit exposure time. No need to dry out - wipe out and check if it still smells, if so repeat and wiped off all areas as good as you can with a solution soaked cloth. Once the smell is gone dry out and enjoy smell free use from now on :) ----- Fruit and vegetables Unless you know exactly what happened to it you might want to clean your vegies and fruits properly before using them. Pesticides, herbicites, fungicites.... Not mention normal fungus and bacteria on the product.... On a commercial base hydron peroxide baths are often used to clean products for sensible people, hospital use or long term storage. For a personal use this only makes sense if you have free and unlimited access to the peroxide. An alternative are ozone bubblers. Expensive models can eb bought in shops or online, complete with timers or even a gauge showing the concentration in a room. On a hobby level for the kitchen sink we can use an ozone generator, air pump and bubble stone from the aquarium store ;) Let the pump bubble out the ozone for a minute or two, fill the sink with the fruit and veggies and move them around every few minutes. Best of course with an open window to limit you exposure to the ozone! Rule of thumb: If you can smell it is already too much in the air! The ozone in the water does the same as the peroxide: It breaks down harmful things with pure oxygen. The downside is that it is very harmful for your airways and body in general, so against all what youtube can offer I actually prefer to treat my fruit and veggie in a sealed bag. Place them inside, push out as much air as you can and then fill up with the ozone from the generator. Once the bag is full leave for about 30 minutes then wash and use or place the things in the fridge.

Posted by Downunder35m 6 months ago

Looking for a cheap compressor with a high pressure rating or for airbrush use?

Today a friend of mine asked me if I know a way to reduce the noise level of his compressor in the work shed. With the current heat he prefers to work in the evening and nights, which does not make his neighbours too happy. His main use for several airbrush guns and sometimes for mormal airtools or the big spray gun for an undercoat or similar. So his main concern is oil in the airline and the actual flow rate is of second concern as he has an old 25kg propane cyclinder as an additional air tank. For relative low air volumes I would suggest an old fridge compressor. With a thicker pipe at the outlet that is filled with stainless steel wool most of the oil stays in the compressor. That is if this pipe is a) long enough b) upright c) of sufficient diameter so there is enough for the oil to avoid it being pushed up A second, standard oil seperator will be enough for the oil level required for airbrush stuff - and most other things too. If there is no pressure regulator on the airbrush system it is best to add a small air tank and shut off valve for it. In our case however a fridge compressor would be just enough to keep the bigger airbrush gun running but not to fill the tank at the same time. Not to mention the problem of fluctuating pressure levels. Since we already had a tank and pressure shut off connected to the loud compressor it was only a matter of finding something that keeps the neighbours happy. The first thing we did was to check how often the compressor comes on and how long it runs till the tank is back to pressure. With that and the stated air volume on the compressor we guesstimated that something a bit bigger than the compressor of a window airconditioner should be sufficient. The search begins.... If you don't know what to look for I give you a few hints: Older airconditioners often run on R22 or R12 - both use quite high system pressures which is a bonus, but more on that later. As a rule of thumb for these compressors you cans say: the bigger the higher the flow rate. At the local wreckers and scrap yards we found a few units but noticed the bigger ones often used three phases and not just one :( So we opted for the R22 compressor of a 4.5kW unit. Keep in mind the 4.5kW is for the entire system, so the quite massive fans can be removed from the sum. Usually the compressor alone is the 2.5 - 3kW range. Ok, we found the big thing but how does this help us? First things first ;) The oil was removed as the housing stating the original oil amount. This allowed us to use an oil rated for air use that has little to no water absorption qualities - you don't want water in your compressor. With the usual heat the water should be no problem anyway. Next was a pressure test to make sure the thing actually still works, so we added some plumping in the form of standard connectors to the inlet and outlet. We got well above 200PSI and abondoned the test at this stage as it was more than enough already. The air volume seemd to be well more than expected too so let'S move to the next stage. A fridge or aircon compressor always needs to have a certain amount of oil in it as it will otherwise seize and overheat quickly. But they are also designed so that the oil mixes with the refrigerant to cool all moving parts. So the biggest hurdle is to make sure the oil stays where it should stay and won't enter or get lost in the tank. Only real option for this to use something to catch the oil that is capable of releasing it into the compressor once it shuts off. Now there are several options for this so I start with the most basic: A "catch can" will get most of the oil, especially if filled with stainless steel wool or similar. Downside is that you have to find a way to get it back into the compressor. A step better is a thicker pipe filled with stainless steel wool to catch the oil. If placed upright and the outgoing pipe can be bend a bit upwards you have a good chance that most of the oil will sweep through the valves and get back down into the compressor housing. But only too often the cheap or even free compressor is better than expected and the oil won't get back into the housing as the vlaves are just too good. The last and IMHO best option is a pressurised return system. Most compressors for bigger aircons have a seperate filling port or sealed off piece of pipe. In this case you can do a simple check to see if they are usable for our purposes. Open the port of pipe and use a simple bike bump or similar to get some pressure in it. With a dedicated oil filling port you are best off but they are hard to find. The air you pump in should come out of the high pressure side - you might need a little pressure to overcome the valves. If you hear any bubbling in the housing (use a pipe on your ear or a sensitive microphone) it means you are going through the oil inside the compressor - perfect! You might not hear any bubbling but the port or pipe is still usable. Get ready with your fingers and start the compressor. The fill pipe should be sucking air in, same for the service port if there is one. A dedicated oil port should not suck but instead force some oil up if you cover the high pressure outlet. I assume all is good and no oil is splashing out of the open pipe or port. Add a small amount of oil with a syringe or similar into the port/pipe. If you see an oil mist coming out of the high side it is bad news. Clean outlet air is good. To get the oil back from the catch pipe or can we have to add a hose or pipe with a needle valve. It needs to be adjusted so that there is only a very little airflow (or oil mist) coming out. This regulated outlet is now being connect to the port/pipe with a bit of suction that we found earlier. Now every time the compressor runs the collected oil is forced back into the compressor :) Please double check the port/pipe used is not directly connected to the intake port! The last thing you want is a puddle of oil going into the cylinder and damaging it! They are designed to move gas but not liquid! If in doubt use a hardened sttel nail or similar to create a small puncture in the top of the compressor housing if there is nothing else to use. Check first if the material sound very thick, if so it might help to drill with a 5 or 6mm drill first - only about 1mm to make sure you won't enter the housing and conimate it with metal shavings! Once you have a small puncture hole of about 2mm in diameter get some 2 component metal repair glue mix and add a suitable connection for the collecting pipe/can. If you feel up to it you can of course use a blow torch and solder the connection on. Now we have the compressor working with a oil return system that also gives up very little to no oil at all in our system. You might now think you are good to go but you should at least add a decent and fine filter to the air inlet ;) The compressor noise of a bigger system can still be an issue if thicker pipes are used that allow the noise to travel out. Keep in mind they usually run in a fully closed system.... As we only need to match the noise level of the compressor itself a solid steel can like an old fire extinguisher in the 1kg rage is a good way out. Fill it with filter wool and a fine filter pad after adding some hose connectors either end. You can misuse the trigger nozzle and keep it to seal the top if you braze a connector on it. If the intake here is about 5 times larger than the pipe connection to the compressor itself the air flow going into the thing is low enough for a cheap paper air filter can or box if you have a quite dusty enviroment to work with. The real trick is to have a hose or pipe on the inside of the fire extinguisher connected to the compressor pipe connection. A garden hose is great here as is reduces the noise quite good and is dirt cheap. Make a lot of about 2mm sized holes in this pipe and close the other end of it off. Now the compressor will suck it through the small holes and the soft garden hose reduces the noise, the surrounding padding brings it down to basically nothing. The special case of clean air for airbrush.... If you read this for the sole purpose of airbrush use then this chapter is just for you, all other might want to skip it. The two things you don't want to enter your gun is oil or water. Both are a common thing in normal compressors due to lubrication and pressure difference resulting in condensation of the humidity in the intake air. Oil free compressors of good quality can cost quite a few bucks and often require ongoing replacement of membranes or piston seals. A refrigeration compressor with the above modifications already provides clean enough air for most airbrush users if a proper tank is used to store enough of the compressed air. So you might just want to add a basic oil filter or very fine paper filter close to the regulator. For very detailed work with very sensitive paints you might want to build a filter box containing of several layers of oil absorbent paper. This stuff is often used in the industry to clean up minor oil spills and bind oil very well. A PVC pipe (pressure rated please) with 5-8 layers of filter screens should last about a lifetime before the filters need changing if the diameter is in the 10-15cm range. That leaves us with the dreaded problem of condensation and water contamination. Depending on the type of paint and gun used a small amount of water vapour is usually no problem. Solvent based paints usally show their disliking by unwanted drops or run offs caused by water droplets. Of course you just go and buy a professional dehumidifier and accept the ongoing replacement costs for the cartridges... But if you are in a climated that has above 30% humidity for most of the year than you will have to remove the water one way or the other. A big enough storage tank for the air that is upright usually helps to release any condensated water prior to usage. But if you use a homemade tank you might want to avoid this problem completely and forget about water in the system altogehter. Silaca gel is the answer here, specifically the indicating variety that changes color once "full". A spaghetti glas or similar should be big enough unless you are in a very humid climate - is so just use multiple in a row. The air intake side for the compressor has to go through the silica gel to be effictive. This mean we need two holes in the lid. One with a pipe or hose going all the way to the botom - that is the air intake side. The other right on the lid - this is the air outlet side which continues to the compressor intake. With the color change in the silica gel we can estimate how much usage we have left until we have to heat it up to remove the water. If this color change happens quite fast from the bottom to the top, let's say within three days or less than you really need to use more jars with silica gel in a row or a longer one - like using a long and clear acrylic pipe instead. Of course you can always just cut holes and "viewing glasses" along the length to a PVC pipe.... No matter how wet your climate is you want to get at least 100 hours of compressor run time before you need to recharge the silica gel. This brings us to the recharging.... Once the color changes and you only have about one quarter left to the top you want to get the water out of the gel and re-use it. To do this you simply heat it up in your oven to around 120-150°C - the supplier should state the max temp for this. If you use a gas oven or one with limited accuracy here it is best to stay within the 120° range. You need to stir and mix the gel or use something big enough like an oven tray. But be aware that these little balls are like glass! The roll and bounce like no tomorrow! IMHO it best to use an old cooking pot that has no plastic handles for this and not to overfill it. This allows for easy mixing without making a mess that might cause a bad trpping hazard on your kitchen floor tiles! Once the gel is back to original colr it is time to let it cool of to a safe temperature and to fill it back into our canister or pipe. Tanks and shut off systems.... We have a refrigeration compressor working for us, and since it was for R22 we can use much higher pressures as a simple compressor from the hardware store. The low pressure side is used to 70PSI or around 5Bar of pressure in normal working conditions. The high side often works at pressure in the range of 200-300PSI or 14-20Bar! The tank we used is a big propane tank that was restamped at some stage in his life for the use of LPG - so it was tested to quite high pressures. The lower pressure limit is what keeps the stored gas liquid at the given temperature. For Propane at an imaginary 30°C this would around 155PSI or 10Bar. The stamped test pressure, although outdated, showed 600PSI or around 40Bar of pressure with no problems - and the thing was thick in the walls... The old shut off switch from an old air compressor was adjustable after removing the safety cap with a bit of force and the help of few cold beer. With a little tank attached we adjusted it to turn the compressor off at 250PSI or around 17Bar of pressure. If your tank is old or has no test pressure stamped on do your own test in a safe location. Make sure the area is secured so there is no chance of debris from a brusting tank can go anywhere - this includes to chain down the tank itself ;) Use the aircon compressor to fill it up to 300PSI or 20Bar of pressure - this should be tolerated with ease by any propane or LPG tank. Shut the valves and let it rest for a day or so. It is best to do this in the early morning so the heat from the day will slightly increase the pressure. At the end you still want to have a working tank and no major pressure losses. All of our mods on this tank were done without actually harming the tank. This was possible as the original valve had a release port for filling purposes - as it standard on most refillable ones. Here we removed the valve and added a pressure guage instead - better to know what is happening than to assume things. As this "port" had a seperate connection to the bottom of the brass valve we added as T-connection to allow for the connection to the compressor. Just be be really sure a thin piece of copper tubing was brazed to the exit hole of this port so all incoming air will be going down and away from the outlet connection with the big shut off valve on top - which we use to actually isolate and close the tank when not it use. Last thing required was something to connect the pressure shut off switch and regulator to. That was the only major expense on this project as we had no old BBQ hose or similar to get a suitable connector to the tank. We bought a simple adapter for the use of smaller hoses and cut the unwanted bits off we there was only the bottle conntector with the nut left. After removing the rubber ring we brazed piece of copper pipe onto it. Here we drilled holes and fitted severy connectors. First for the pressure switch, then for the connection to the pressure regulator and two standard ones with a ball valve for air hose connections. One air hose connection female, the other male so a standard compressor can be connected as well or "backfilled" for additional and mobile storage use. As we wanted to avoid any reduction in the safety and burst pressure no release valve was added at the bottom on the tank. The added silica gel filter stage was used instead so no water will get into the system to begin with. Additionally, and painfully for me and me friend, the inside of the tank was coated with a layer of acrylic paint to prevent and rust as it was free from it when we checked it at the beginning. This involved filling a suitable amount of paint into it, closing the top while keeping the thread clean and then to move the tank around to cover the inside evenly. If you do this be prepared for some weird movements with your friends LOL Once we were sure all ust be covered by paint at least three times we released the exxess paint and allowed the inside to dry with the assistance of some air forced to go in with a length of pipe. This was repeated 3 times... Then another two just for the bottom third of it where there might be some moisture after all... Now you don't want to remove the brass valve with everything connected to it just to turn the tank over to releae the collected water. Instead we made sure the added pipe on the former relese port would go all the way to the bottom of the tank. If any water collection is suspected only the connection to the compressor needs an additional valve for the disconnection so the water will be force back out here. To make this easy and fast we used standard quick connectors and a piece of flexible airhose rated to 20bar of pressure for the connection to the compressor. We checked the performance of the moisture removal and oil removal only for a few hours of running time while priming some surface for later use. The compressor oil used was very smelly to say it nice but nothing coul be smelled in the first paper filter after the pressure regulator. To check for remaining moisture levels (65% humidity in the house) we used a 10m length of clear PVC tubing going through an ice bath. After 30 minutes of moderate air release there was no condensation on the inside of the tubing visible. Of course if you only need it for air supply and don't care about a bit of moisture and oil you can keep it simple ;) Benefits of doing such a stupid thing: For starters noise and the peace of mind that you can do a lot of airbrushing until the compressor needs to kick in again. Then of course the benefit of an almost silent system compared to a standard compressor - something you can actually tolerate while doing art. But the real deal is knowing YOU did it and you did it for cheap. Warnings and some advise... I know, it should be at the very beginning but I just hope you read till the end ;) If the compressor fails from overheating you are up for a new one. This means the tan size should be within the limits of what the compressor can handle - same for what you actually use on air. You want an empty tank to be filled before the compressor feels hot to touch - quite warm is fine but if you can't leave your hand on it then it is too hot. Same story for the usage. There is no point in using a tiny 10 liter storage tank if you need that capacity every few minutes. The compressor would only have little pauses and overheat quickly. You want a good balance of usage time before the tank goes below supply pressure and running time of the compressor to get it to full pressure again. This brings us to the safety of high pressures. Where possible only copper tubing or sufficiently rate hoses should be used, the later as short as possible to avoid them acting like a whip if something goes wrong. When it comes to the safety of the tank you want to make sure to stay withing it's rated limits. All benefits of a compressor capable of producing over 500PSI otr close to 35Bar is wasted if your tank and pressure regulator can't handle it. This must not mean that you try to use a gas cylinder of unknow age and pressure rating and assume it will work! If in doubt use a lower shut off pressure and stay within the limits of normal air compressors - which is around 120PSI or 8Bar. Never, ever use a tank that is compromised by inside rust or bad corrosion on the outside! If you don't know how to braze copper tubing, pipes and connectors then check out some of the great Instructables about it! Whenever you know you won't use any compressed air for more than a few hours close all valves especially the ones going back to the compressor on the high pressure side! Some compressors really don't like a huge pressure difference constantly pushing on the reed valves. If your tank is big enough to allow for more than one hour of operation before the compressor has to top it up you might want to consider a one way valve right on the compressor outlet. This will prevent any massive pressures going onto the valves - especially helpful for modern compressors that only rely on the sealing capabilities of the clyinders or rotary system used. One thing you should always consider is a pressure relief valve rated for about 50PSI more than your tank pressure - it can be added to the pipe ;) If the shut off valve ever fails the relief valve gives you the ease of mind that it will blow before your tank does. Maintenance... If modded correctly the compressor should stay in the compressor and the compressor itself should not overheat from use. Having said that your compressor might force out a little more than your best catch system can handle. If that becomes a problem it might help to use an oil with a lower viscosity. If all fails it just means you need to top up oil once the last last paper filter is filthy or use slightly more to begin with so the intervals are longer. The silica gel, if used should be recharged before all of it is wasted - no point in adding it if you use it once full of water. If no gel is used there will be water in the storage tank. Even with the added paint and a good air filter it is possible that nasty things grow in there. Making sure the tank is emptied of any water after long uses and again before the next use is good practise. If no pressure gauge is used on the tank you must make sure the shut off valve is always working fine and within set parameters. I strongly recommend using a gauge and if not to perform a pressure check of the system every now and then to confirm all is within parameters of normal operation. A compressor constantly running means you either use far too much air or you have a leak - same story if the compressos kicks in after some of forgetting to shut it off and close the valves. If you keep the above in mind the salvaged compressor should work just fine for many years to come. Troubleshooting and alternatives.... You put everything together the right way, double checked and something is till not right? Maybe my crystal ball helps me to find something... 1. Always oil coming through the catch system. It usually means you use too much of it. A salvaged compressor, if the refrigent was removed legally from the system should still have a "correct" level of oil inside. Too much oil would mean is being pumped through the system at an excessive rate. Very thin compressor oils tend to do that in the compressor is misude like we do. Changing to standard mineral oil can help here. As a last resort you can use a pressure gauge or good judgement to allow more flow through the needle valve from the catch system back to the compressor. Too much backflow here would mean we loose system pressure to the set level of this needle valve! 2. The R22 rated compressor seems to be unable to produce enough pressure. First do a leak test using soapy water to rule out any leaks. Do a back pressure test on the ports. If you can push air through them in the reverse way with ease it means the valves are damaged making the compressor useless. You need to replace it. A regular cause with our type of usage is a constand back pressure from the storage tank to the compressor. To prevent this it might help to mount an electric solenoid between the compressor and storage tank. Such valve should be off when the pressure switch is engaged and on when the pressure switch is disengaged. This prevents the coil from overheating but requires a "normally off" type of valve. A good source at the wreckers are cars with LPG systems installed, they usually have suitable 12V valves somewhere on or near the tank and filler cap. 3. I am using several kg of silica gel but still get a lot of water in my storage tank. Going overboard in a humid climate can be a good thing here but if moisture makes it into the tank even with great amounts of silica gel there are only two causes: a) the tube or cylinder used is not long enough or not wide enough to allow the absorption of all the moisture going through. b) the flow rate is too high and the temperatures are too. For the first the solution is obvious enough. The second is related to the first for the diameter and lenght but temperatures constantly above the 30°C while operating somehow limits what the gel can do. Using a cooling coil on the intake side or simply putting the gel containers in icy water will help to a great deal here. If that is not an option than I suggest to layer the gel and to seperate it with fine paper filter screens. This will slow and even out the airflow allowing for more contact time with the gel. 4. The compressor gets very noisy after some time. If "some time" means more than 30-45 minutes you simply have it running too much and it overheats. If the noise increases too much when reaching the shut off pressure it can mean the pressure is too high for it. 5. Can I use multiple compressors from smaller units or refrigerators to get enough air volume? Of course you can but it might mean you have to lower your pressure expectations. Consider that each individual compressor would get the back pressure from all other compressors running while it's outlet valve is closed. To avoid premature failure you want to make sure the compressors are shut off at a lowver pressure. 6. I don't want to use a big tank but require a good airflow for airbrush. Two or three fridge compressors working one after the other with a small tank to keep the output pressure even can allow for about 30 minutes runtime per compressor. With three it gives one hour for the the first to cool off and should be enough for ongoing work. Downside is you need to make some sort of automatic switch to "rotate" to compressor working. Last words.... Is you find any spelling mistakes you can keep them. However, if you use them in any way to make a profit with them I kindly ask for 10% of your earning from it ;) Why did I not make an Instructable out of all this? Well the day was very hot, the beer very cold and my mobile phone at home, so I did not take any pics. To top it up the whole thing is now in a seperate box for additional noise reduction so it can be used in the same room where the guy is working. Of course he just used a nailgun for the job without any regard of access or at least easy view of the two pressure gauges. Typical if you have a great idea and the cold beer tells you to forget all about screws or hinges ROFL Only comment was: You created it and it works fine, why would need more than the pipe connections for the gel and regulator? Maybe he will reconsider when the service is due....

Posted by Downunder35m 1 year ago