Asked by lynnmaj 7 years ago
Asked by ReallyWTF 6 years ago
How do I contain the heat rising between curtains and windows in east and south facing windows? (on the cheap, please) It will spread across the ceiling and blast into the room...ugh...? I just installed new thermal draperies that go from floor to above window but there is that gap at the top...and no room for a valance type box... The east windows span 124" x 69"--5 Anderson type windows. The left and right ends of the windows (5 panes) are the ones that open. The south wall is 124" by 56"--two panes, both crank open. Any good easy practical suggestions?
Asked by winston1952 8 years ago
I had my Venitian Blinds closed and i pulled the beaded cord to open them to just let in a little light and it just kept pulling and wouldn't open. I'm thinking it just came off track inside or something. I can only open them fully by pulling them and have to push them as i pull them back so they don't get stuck on the top that holds the blind on. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Asked by DaMommy 8 years ago
How can you make a homemade spring tension rod that will handle 5 pounds of fabric over a span of 77 inches?
I am working at making a temporary window coverings for stained glass windows. I need to make decorative 'black out' type curtains and have chosen a heavy tapestry fabric to go with the period building. The windows need to be blacked out so that a projector screen is dark enough to be seen clearly and the flicker of light doesn't cause a visual strobbing distraction. When the weekly event is done, I need to quickly remove the curtains after the event and roll them up for storage the next week. Tension rods seemed to fit the need, but I can't seem to find them in the right length with enough strength to prevent sagging in the center, or outright falling down. I am not allowed to drill into the wood casement windows or in anyway mark them or the walls. Tension rods again seem the answer. I can only find Shower rods up to 72". Suggestions PLEASE!
Asked by jalet 9 years ago
Hi all, I have been searching for ways to make an easy and cheap automatic curtains/blinds controller but have not really seen any that actually meets my basic needs but also does not require lots of complex IC components. Please let me know of any instructables I may have missed. So here is my design - hoping everyone can help to validate it and discuss design faults and improvements (mainly to reduce costs). The Requirements: 1) Costs: Total costs should be around $20 per curtain. I think professional systems cost about $100-$200 per curtain controller. 2) Parts: Easy to build and put together with some soldering. Parts are easy to find/buy or substitute for similar components. 3) Function: At least 2 buttons. One UP button and one DOWN button for manual triggering (wireless buttons would be better). 4) Function: One press of Button A fully opens the blinds with the motor stopping at the correct place to avoid damage to the blinds or the motor. The opposite goes for Button B to close the blinds. 5) Function: The controller should never be able to open or close the blinds past the normal safe positions, causing damage. 6) Optional Parts: Complete system is small enough to fit inside the blinds/curtain's cover / awning. I think it should be easy to fit in most covers anyway. Briefly how it should all work: With the curtains rolled up, you would press button A, which would roll the curtains DOWN, then stopping at the correct place (covering the whole window). Pressing button A once again would not do anything or further roll DOWN the curtains. Then, press button B and the curtains should start rolling UP constantly, stopping just before it gets to the top. Pressing button B once again would not do anything or further roll UP the curtains, avoiding damage to curtains or motor. Design/diagram below (sorry for the poor details, i used MS-Visio to draw it out). The Parts/Components (under $30 at time or writing): 1) 5-10kg servo $7 (using 5volts) that can be power in forward or reverse spin. Slow spinning speeds would be best for safe and low power operation? 2) Some hand made adapter to firmly connect the servo motor shaft to the curtain's shaft to spin/roll the curtains ($0 free). 3) A wireless power relay $14, (12 volts) with 2 channels and "constant on power" functions (links below). I guess wired relays are fine, but I would want to hide the wires to the buttons. 4) 2x 5V regulators $2, to reduce the 12v power from the Relay to 5v for the Servo. 5) 2x Magnetic or reed switches $5 (12 volts) that is Normally On (normally connected). 6) 4x Rare earth magnets $1 to work with the reed switches. These are small, thin and easy to hide, but are very strong. 7) A power source for the relay, 4x 18650 batteries?. Should be 12 volts or depending on what relay & servo combo you use. (links below) Construction: 1) Make an adapter to connect the servo to the blind's shaft. I dont have a picture of one or the steps for this as every servo & curtain combo situation will be different, but im sure it should be simple to make. Fail or malfunction of this part would cause too much damage to anything really? 2) For best practice, use temporary wiring to connect all the components together as per diagram and test out the functions as if they were installed in their places and on the blinds. 3) Glue or connect the adapter, curtain shaft and servo shaft together. Also mount the servo firmly somewhere, on the wall or curtain cover so it doesnt end up spinning itself. 4) Position both magnetic switches on the wall, behind and just under the curtain's roll of fabric as per diagram. A lot of testing and playing around will be needed to create the correct gap between each switch and curtain. Switch A (Limiter A) will be the most difficult to position. It will be used to stop the servo from rolling the blinds too far down. This means the magnet glued on the blinds is up high on top, which will be rolled inside layers of fabric and may spin close to Limiter A multiple times which may cut the circuit/power earlier than intended as the magnet spins round and round. Limiter B should be easier. 5) Wire the 2 channels on the relay to the Servo and the Limiters. The 5V regulators goes between both channels of the Relay's power OUT and the Servo's two power Inputs. Screw or glue the relay to somewhere firm like inside the curtain covers. 6) Glue the rare earth magnets to the desired positions, or sew them on if you dont trust the glue. The magnets will physically cut the power to the servo by activating the Magnetic reed switches, so using 2 magnets would be even better, just incase the servo you use spins really fast or has a lag. 7) Connect the relay to the battery/power cable. Of course double check all is good before adding power. In my case, I will have 12v power cables available to use. 8) Put the curtain cover back on to hide everything. Hopefully you did not create creases in the curtain fabric where the magnets are glued. Oh and maybe remove the curtain draw strings (used to pull up & down the curtains) to avoid breaking the Servo? Detailed explanation of how it should work: - The blinds are fully rolled up. - Press Button A once, Relay provides power to Channel A, Servo spins clockwise constantly (rolling down the curtain). - Servo's positive line A is cut (circuit open) when Magnet A rolls out and comes close to Limiter A. Relay is still outputting power to Channel A but no power goes to the Servo. - Press Button A once again, the Servo should not do anything. The Relay should then stop outputting power to Channel A. - Further presses of Button A does nothing but toggles Channel A's power on and off. Magnet A & Limiter A still disabling power to the Servo. - Press Button B once, Relay provides power to Channel B, Servo spins anti-clockwise constantly (rolling UP the curtain). - Servo's positive line B is cut when Magnet B rolls up close to Limiter B. Relay is still outputting power to Channel B. - Press Button B once again, the Servo should not do anything. - With this "latch" functionality of the Relay (see link below and product details), it is also possible to stop the curtains mid way, which might be useful for some people, i dont think i will use it. For future upgrades: I think it would be possible to control this controller from a PC program, by directly connecting IO cables to the Relay's button A & B on the PCB. Sending pulses from the PC as though it were remote button presses. Or just bring the remote to the PC's IO ports and connect there. Would anyone disagree? Links: - An example Servo: http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_nkw=High+torque+Metal+Gear+RC+Servo - The wireless Relay: http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?rt=nc&LH_PrefLoc=2&_nkw=2CH%2012V%20Wireless%20Relay - The 5v Regulators (L7805): http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?rt=nc&LH_PrefLoc=2&_nkw=5v%20regulators&_fln=1&_trksid=p3286.c0.m283 - The magnetic reed switches: http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_nkw=reed+switch - The rare earth magnets: http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_nkw=rare+earth+magnets+n38 - Design/diagram: http://i50.tinypic.com/118emas.jpg
Asked by sonhy 5 years ago
I was wondering if any of you had any advice for the front of a whole wall shelving unit I am planning on building (and the shelves as well if you have any suggestions). You see, although there is a cavity wall between this room and the next, I am wary of a noise complaint as it is a different flat’s bedroom. I will be using it as a music production room and ideally want decent acoustics as well as adding an extra these extra layers to stop leakage. (I’ll draw some pictures and upload them to clarify what I’m saying)* Two things I’ve been thinking about using: 1. A high-density curtain hanging in front of the whole unit. While this could possibly deal with the main issue of a noise complaint better than the next idea, I’m worried it will create a bad mixing environment with a really ‘dead’ wall behind my speakers. 2. Hanging, sliding acoustic panels using egg box foam under a sheet of fabric. This will look like a normal acoustic panel with the fabric pinned around a timber frame. I was thinking of forgoing using any sheet wood so I could hang a piece of high-density carpet/ fabric at the back and not have the panel too heavy. The wall measures about 3.2m W x 2.3m H so I was thinking of using three, maybe four hanging panels. It’s my understanding that a hanging panel would absorb more energy from the sound waves than one on wheels or in a sliding track. To hang the panels the main idea I had was to use metal tubing (uncertain as to what material to use, conduit?). With the three panels, I would use two main lengths of it one on the same height, parallel to the other, with the distance between needed to stop the panels on either track hitting each other. From above or below it would look a bit like this U=====U (sorry if this doesn’t translate to your device well… See pictures) with the ends of the U going into holes drilled into the wood, extending as far as the shelves will be deep if needed. With four I would just have two sets of the same but smaller. Sorry if this doesn’t make much sense, rushed off me feet at the moment. Many thanks Jay *Sorry the pictures ended up pretty awful, just moving in, need a proper table…
Posted by JWL94 7 months ago
I've been inspired but the kraken shower curtain over at http://www.krakenrumstore.com/Shopping/Shopping.aspx?Nav=PRXNV118 but Im a picky girl and like a little more detail in my tentacles. Anyone have any clues about what sort of pens etc would give the best/ most lasting results? Thanks
Asked by lozzy 7 years ago
My idea for a simple curtain puller is to have a motor on a timer, the motor turns on and winds a cord/string that loops around the curtain, pulling it to the side. The part that I need help on is turning the motor off when the string is sufficiently coiled, so either it would be set for a certain time/number of rotations/ or amount of resistance.
Posted by SethR14 2 years ago
I live in a house with no closets and bought one of those wire closet racks and ran it across the back of my bedroom. It works but leaves a messy appearance with no doors and I have a wood stove and a dusty farmhouse. I have material for curtains but can't afford a rod of that strength and length. So...whatcha got?
Asked by tbcross 7 years ago
How do I make a L-shaped shower curtain rod? I do not mind an industrial look. (raw pipes) The size is 29" x 29". I need to make it by Thanksgiving. I dont want to have to use a support bar, but i will if i need to.
Asked by jjett1 8 years ago
Hi Recently, My curtain rack in my bedroom came out while i was moving the curtain, i was pulling down a little bit, and apparently that was enough to rip the rack out of the plaster. Ive attached photos. Because theres another rack holder, ide rather not patch up the hole as that will mean also patching up the other hole made when i remove the other rack. Is it possible to securely put the hook back in with a glue, resin ,foam or something?
Asked by oldmanbeefjerky 5 years ago
I want to outfit my open closet (81x77in.) with a curtain of Hokusai's "The Great Wave off Hanagawa". Since my searches for an existing product have proved fruitless, is there a DIY method of doing it cheaper? I don't have very much artistic skill and I don't know if a printing service would do curtains when it's not actually artwork I own rights to.
Asked by StoryAddict 7 years ago
I'd like to rig up a system which will automatically pull open the curtains in my bedroom at a preset time in the morning. The curtains open quite nicely by pulling on strings tied to their inside ends, and it'll be easy to run both those strings to a central location where they can be wound around some sort of motorized spool. So, what I need is a simple little motor (needn't be too powerful, I'd think) that can drive such a spool, and then some way to control it based on the time. Something as simple as a light switch timer, though, which merely switches a circuit on or off at a given time, isn't quite enough, because the motor will need to run for, say, 5 seconds to open the curtains and then stop. Ideally, it would be nice if there was a user-friendly interface I could use to set the time of the curtain alarm, and there should also be a way to just press a button to trigger the opening on command. Any thoughts? Thanks very much!
Asked by baravelli 5 years ago
Hi all, In a project of automated vertically folding curtain I have the problem that whatever the position of my curtain (8 kg) is, the motor is always drawing current. Let's say the curtain stays for 8 hours in the same position, then during these 8 hours the motor is wasting lots of energy. Is there a method/mechanical system which can be used to make sure the motor only uses energy ("works") if the position of the curtain has to change? Thanks in advance
Posted by mmsyx 2 years ago
I have a double, 4-poster bed. The posts unscrew from the headboard and footboard. And the finials on top of the posts also unscrew. I want to make a bed with curtains on all 4 sides. Kind of like a canopy bed, except with no top. Only the long sheers on all sides. These can hang from rods. The problem: I want to attach the four rods, preferably very thin and light, from post to post to post to post to post. I prefer that the rod be stiff and not something that would sag with the weight of the curtains. Of course the curtains will be lightweight sheers. I have searched for a kit to build. Nothing comes up. Any ideas?
Asked by natures_due 6 years ago
How can I make an L-shaped shower curtain rod, without drilling any holes in the wall or ceiling? Answered
I'm moving into an apartment that has a bathtub, but no shower, hence no shower curtain. However, there is a handheld shower attachment that could be used to convert it to a shower. But to use it as a shower, I'd prefer to have something to keep water from going everywhere. The tub is in a corner of the bathroom, so I'd need a curved or L-shaped shower rod to fully enclose the bathtub. My landlord won't allow me to make any holes in the walls, so I'm kind of stuck.
Asked by Ben5504 9 years ago
I would relly appreceiate it if someone could give me some insight regarding creating my own LED video curtain. I have a small haunted attraction and would love to be able to make a custom curtain in order to display different video effects, blood running down walls, cockroaches running accross the wall etc. I realize that I could use a projector to get the effects that I want but projector placement can be a REAL hassle when adding people, fog and simulated lightning to the mix. Thank You in advance, L0G1C0N
Asked by L0G1C0N 6 years ago
Finishiing cord ends i am trying to make curtain tiebacks with 3/8 in. cord. How do I finish the ends neatly?
I have tried burning the ends but the gold cord really unravels and the black end looks bad, plus i need to put a loop on the end and can;t figure how to do this. someone suggested jewerly caps. any suggestions
Please excuse me but I definately am a novice here.I am a DJ and have found this product http://www.americandj.com/product.asp?ProductIDNumber=1391&cat=Lighting_DISCONTINUEDand thought I could make it alot cheaper than $550.00Could anyone give me any starting advice. I know where to purchase the led's cheaply and the fabric but wiring and or buying a controller is a different story. any advice or links would be greatly appreciated..Thanks, Chaz
Posted by chaz54476 10 years ago
You might have seen them on your favorite super market. When you enter the store you get hit by an air current from above. They help prevent pests from coming inside the store and also keep the cold/warm air inside. The price for one of these units is ridiculous!! at least for home applications. They range from $200 to $3,000 depending on the size and air current speed. I can visualize a wood box with the aperture on it for the air to come out but the insides would be a bit hard to find under $200. Maybe one of those standing fans? I don't plan on doing the instructable but it would be nice if someone would ^_^.
Asked by cybershadow1 7 years ago
[Question about diffusing light] ... Making a Tron costume. How can I diffuse the LED lights to look more smooth? Answered
Alright, so I'm making a Tron Legacy outfit for NY Comic Con in a few days. It's a spin-off of Kevin Flynn's black robe, which is basically a robe with a light on the borders of it. Pic below. Now, for many reasons, I'm using LED strips instead of EL wire. The problem is that the LEDs are so bright that each individual light shines clearly through the white shower curtain that I'm using. Do you guys know of any really good ways to diffuse this light so that it looks smoother? When I lift the curtain higher from the strip, maybe about an inch, it becomes more diffused. But since I will be sewing this to my garment, I'm not 100% sure how to keep the shower curtain higher above the LEDs at all times. Any enlightenment would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
Asked by jamesdavis86 6 years ago
I just read about an inspiring idea from Japan to lower electricity bills in summer: you mount a wire frame outside the window, plant vines at the bottom, and the vines will grow up the wires, providing shade, a more "organic" feeling, and probably a little more oxygen to the room its shading. This sounds like a GREAT idea! Does anyone know of any fast growing vines that are succulent/lush enough to make this work well?
Posted by dizzytired 9 years ago
Does anyone know ,Where i can find some really good code for my adrino mega for the Lpd6803.rgb led chip? i just got the adrino mega, and have never had one before, so i don't know how to use it yet, just starting to learn, i have a curtain that hangs behind our band, it has 16 colums and 11 rows of leds 176 in all. They are all wired in series, and each one has a lpd6803 on it. and i would love to be able to write the name of our band on the curtain, the led strips start at the bottom right side of the curtain go up then over then back down again, and it repeats this for all 16 colums, but all still wired in series. any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks and God bless you my friends.
Posted by tommylee333 5 years ago
I found this "American Girl"-type bed at Goodwill yesterday. It measures 19 1/2" x 10 3/4" on the outside. It has a canopy that needs curtains. It needs a mattress and bedding. It shouldn't be too hard to make, but I just need help getting started. Any ideas would be appreciated. I did search for doll bed, doll bedding and mattress on here and all I got was a cardboard dollhouse.
Asked by maryshe 8 years ago
I have a problem in my apartment with an outdoor light right outside my window. If i dont close my curtains at night my room pretty much looks like daylight. I like to wake up to the sun though so I started looking at automatic curtain openers, saw the price and decided it cant be that hard to diy. My idea is to have a curtain that rolls up rather then goes to the side. I am trying to think of a way to make this simple cheap and quiet. really all I need is a rod and fairly quiet motor that I can plug into a wall. I was thinking a rotisserie motor would be pretty good but have never been near one to hear how loud they are. It might solve the problem of a rod as well depending on how long of a stick I can get for it. Anyone have any other ideas of a better way to do this?
Posted by iamme9182 9 years ago
Ok guy's i need a little help, or to be pointed in the right direction, backround: i want to buildd a retrofit kit for a existing automatic sandblast curtain.. reason: basically every monument company in the country own's an older automatic blast curtain, that is controlled by limit switches only, and the new ones are cnc and cost 50,000 ish, and the existing machines are screeming for a retrofit kit... i own the "hirons model j" automatic curtain, it an x,y easy as pie thing, my problem is that i can get the parts machined and the rig built, however the g-code is my problem, and i think it will be very easy for someone whom can do it, to do it.. all i need is the machine to make strait passes left to right and back while slowly progressing top to bottom and back, the nozzle will also have a "spindle" motor, that will make it make a circular pattern constantly for the duration of the job, could anyone help with the g-code, ???? i can do all testing as i own the machine,
Posted by ryanH88 3 years ago
This is sort of random, but I needed ideas on another random project. So I was browsing the shops today when I came across an amazing bargain! 20 Curtain rings for 0.99p! How amazing is that?! What a bargain! (pardon the sarcasm) Anyway, they were there staring at me, so I took to oppurtunity and just bought them for the heck of it cause I knew i'd find something to do with them. But what I originally had in mind failed to work, so Im turning to you guys for random helpfulness :-) Any ideas on what I could randomly make with these glorious curtain rings?
Posted by Hiyadudez 7 years ago
What materials? How wide? Would you have to take down curtains or blinds? How long does it take to make?
Asked by GDheart 5 years ago
Is it necessary to get the screen as close to the glass window as possible? How would it look if the shower curtain were attached to the frame of the window - about 6-8 inches back from the glass? (realizing of course that the shower rod would not be usable in this scenario - but it would provide e...
I have one window in my kitchen above the sink and want to make a non-working roman shade type curtain/valance. I need instructions. Thanks
I just bought automated curtain tracks like these:http://www.smarthome.com/31422.HTMLWhich requires two momentary switches to (one to open and one to close).Of course I could use two universal modules (on momentary operation) to activate the contacts, but I think I have a more elegant solution:I opened a UM506 and noticed the relay inside has 4 wires (two to close the contact, and two to open it).Putting two regular relays at the end of these wires works and you get two momentary switches !!! (one activates when you press the on button, the other one when you press the the off switch).My only problem is that the time these relays stay on is two short to trigger the opening or closing of my curtains.Does anyone knows which component should be replaced/changed to make the electric impulse sent to the relay last longer (it is probably just a capacitor or a relay to change).If you have other ideas (like another module that could be used for this purpose), please tell me, I'm really looking forward to automate these curtains,Thanks
I have an airconditioner unit (old style) that sticks out about 5 inches (12cm.) further than the frame. Into the kitchen. I currently have curtains but want to have blinds of some kind for a more modern look. How can I have blinds if the place for attachment is not the same across the window. Any help will be usefull, I'm stuck.
Posted by craftyv 4 years ago
Something on the cheaper side would be great to fill it up. I don't really have any decorations in my room to be truthfull. I like my bed, that's the only thing I put care into. Lots of pillows. I also have two huge windows with long brown curtains if that helps. But the wall across from my bed is big and blank!
This brass item is about 30 cm tall. It is hollow throughout. The narrow top has a thread on the inside, as though something should be screwed into it. It is solid brass and has curves progressing from larger to small, bottom to top. My best guess is that it might be a final from a curtain rod or that it belongs to a hookah pipe, but I can't find anything similar on websites. Help please.
Asked by Brassfan 5 years ago
Just wondering if anybody knew of a way to get an inspiration wire that taut AND also flush against the wall? Like this, but flush against the wall: http://5840-sfgirlbybay.voxcdn.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/2i1.jpg We're trying to add some posters to a wall but it needs to limit the holes in the wall itself and also have it not move very much (with a wire that isn't flush against the wall, all the posters will flap around too much). Any thoughts?
Asked by amymartin 5 years ago
Yay! I will hopefully have an instructable and pattern up for this pretty soon! The hat is ready to go, but the shape of the ears and their placement is going to be fixed. I want them to be a little smaller and a little further back on the head! The finished product is going to be made out a polar fleece, so it'll fit better and won't be as stiff as this one. It's made out of old curtains. :P
Posted by jessyratfink 8 years ago
I have a "man cave", as my wife calls it. It's basically my office, with all the decorations she won't let me put in the rest of the house along with my Ammunition Reloading Bench....anyway, there is no door. The hallway opens right into it. I have a curtain there now but I have always wanted a secret door. I have looked at all the "instructables" pertaining to the hidden door, however I can't figure out what kind of door is a good door or where the hinges go or if i should use a pre-existing bookcase...any suggestions?
Asked by marinecop1205 8 years ago
Hello dear Instuctablists, You can't see me, but I am down on one knee. It's intended to show my deference to you. The reason? Well, we just finished rebuilding the ground floor of my house and there's now a big, deep-ish rectangular space above the toilet (about 70cm x 50cm and 15 cm deep). I was looking at it the other day, and had an idea for what I would like to put there that made me laugh out loud. The trouble is I have NO IDEA how to make it. Not only that, I can't think of any search terms that are leading me to 'how to' videos. In short all I have is an idea and no clue how to even begin making it. So, here's my idea. What I want to make is what appears to be a framed picture of two velvet curtains. BUT when you flush, the curtains draw back (like at the theatre) to reveal a small scene inside. Lights come on, some music plays, little toys/characters/puppets appear and then ten seconds later, the curtains close and that's that. In other words and automated, electronic, toy theatre. So what I'm asking is either a) If you have any idea where I should start with this could you tell me where or b) If the end product sounds like something you'd like to see exist and you know how to make it, do you want to mentor me? (We could turn it into a YouTube video/series, do it over Skype or if you're in/near London, UK meet up IRL). Maybe I'm over-reaching in the help stakes, but every time I look at that blank piece of wall, I think: try. Any help gratefully received. Even if you can't help, thanks for reading this. RH (Also, I can't work out how to turn that picture round either. Sheesh. This whole thing is a TALL order)
Posted by RufusH 2 years ago
I've been looking around for a new bike, roadster, the thin ones for road and urban travel? Almost curtain that’s the right label, but what kind, what should I look for, specs, design, weight, color? Help a fella out, I’m new to the bike scene and my old wheels just won’t cut it. Also, what kind of bike does Armstrong use in competition, mainly; tour de France (of course of course)? And if you’d be so kind, what’s YOUR favorite kind of bike? Lastly, best deals on these bikes? ( I’m on a budget people, aren’t we all?)
Asked by Jumpin Jehosaphat 7 years ago
I would like to use a 110 volt, 1/2 hp (more or less), DC ( or AC ) reversing motor to move and close a horizontal, heavy (approx. 200 lbs.) fabric, thermal, curtain blanket and then to move and open back the blanket in a greenhouse. There are very expensive commercial greenhouse systems that exist to perform this task. Since I have a hobby greenhouse that is 30 ft. wide by 80 ft. long by 13 ft. tall, I need a much more affordable system. Horizontal wires or very large monofilament fishing line (spaced 12" to 18" apart) will run the length of the greenhouse at approximately the 8 ft. height. These wires or lines will be used to support the blanket and for it to slide on (the blanket will have grommets or similar devices used on a shower curtain to keep the blanket running straight, etc. ) when mechanically closed and reopened. My idea is to use a DC or AC motor to perform this task with modifications to work in the greenhouse. The motor will consist of the 110 volt, 1/2 hp (more or less), DC or AC reversing motor, that will be connected to a small cable drum spool on the motor shaft, The motor can be attached at one end wall of the greenhouse at 8 ft. high below or above the blanket and at the other end of the greenhouse also will have a cable drum spool with a pipe for rotation an be appropriately attached to the end wall. Attached to these 2 cable drum spools would be say 175 ft. ( 2 x 80 ft. plus initial amount on spool) of say 3/8 inch aircraft cable. The curtain blanket will have a say a 30 ft. long 1/2 inch or so horizontal metal bar or pipe attached to it on the leading edge. The aircraft cable will be attached to the blanket bar or pipe.The other end of the curtain blanket will be attached to the non motor end wall. As the motor turns the 2 cable drum spools by wrapping and unwrapping the aircraft cable, the attached curtain blanket will be pulled the 80 ft. length of the greenhouse in each direction. What I want to accomplish is as follows: . 1. Be able to slowly, if possible, (say over 20 - 30 minutes) close (move forward) the blanket with the motor at a preset time in the evening and for the motor to stop when the blanket is fully pulled to the motor end of the 80 ft. greenhouse. 2. Be able to slowly, if possible, (say over 20 - 30 minutes) reopen (move backward) the blanket with the motor at a preset time in the morning and for the motor to stop when the blanket is fully pulled back to the non motor end of the 80 ft. greenhouse. To accomplish this, this reversing DC or AC motor will need to reverse direction to reopen the blanket. 3. The shaft of a motor will probably be too short to clamp a cable drum spool to. How do I attach the spools? 4. What is best to use a DC or AC motor? I tried extensively to research on the internet how to accomplish the above, but everything described similar processes in vague and technical terms of using various types of electromechanical timers, electromechanical relays, limit switches, microcontrollers, MOSFET circuits, transistors, arduinos, bridge rectifiers, etc. I have no knowledge of all of these electronic devices and am totally confused. However, I am pretty good at say basic home electrical wiring. The closest thing on the internet to what I am trying to accomplish is an automatic chicken coop door, but not enough specifics for my project. I need some very, specific steps, specific products and where they can be purchased to be able to accomplished this. What type of motor, types of electronic devices, etc. Also, since it appears I will need a timer, a speed controller, relays or limit switches, etc. how in the world to wire these to the motor in laymen terms. Thanks so much for anyone that can help me!!!
Asked by woodwardfarms 2 years ago
What does every body think about different background colors for picture taking? I made up a black one but I'm thinking about a white / cream one as well. Pictures are of a bottle with a jug knot tied (great instructable, look it up) while the other is from jessyratfink's Instructable "Sew a Where Things are Hat + Pattern!" with a white backdrop. What do you prefer? By the way, the black back drop is mine, I have it hung up on a curtain rod with a stool in front with the cloth draping over, then with the item placed on top. Still new at photography but I think it's an ok picture.
Posted by Kryptonite 8 years ago
Hi, I have a motor (12V DC) that I need to be able to operate both backwards and forwards from two locations. The simple way is to connect it with two DPDT switches with momentary on in each end and off in the middle, i.e. also called (on)-off-(on). The reason for using momentary switches is that there would otherwise be a risk of short circuiting if one of the switches are left in on-position. However, I almost always need the motor to go to preset limits in both directions which takes a couple of minutes (the limits are built-in functions in the motor, so no need to set those). So I was wondering if there was a cheap and easy way of inserting a kind of timer or similar that would only leave the connection on for a couple of minutes only (and yes, there would still be a risk of short circuiting within those two minutes, but it would be unlikely to happen)? Or perhaps there is an even simpler way of doing it? Any ideas would be welcome. In (the likely) case the above is not clear, perhaps this will help: I need it to operate a curtain, i.e. moving the curtain up and down, but I need to be able to do that from two different locations. Preferably it would be good if I could also stop the engine somewhere in the middle - as I would be able to do with a switch simply be releasing it. The best/cheapest/easiest way would, I think, be to have two DPDT switches with a spring or something with a couple of minutes delay, i.e. if it is left in the on-position for more than two minutes it would automatically spring back. But such a thing seems not to exist... or? Would be grateful for any inputs. Erik
Asked by eriktoft 5 years ago