dog urine stains

How can I remove dog urine stains and odors from hardwood floors?  they are very dark, and at least two years old.  Thank you!

Asked by anniejoe13 8 months ago


Please help, need advice for installing engineered hardwood floors?

Hi, I recently purchased some 3/8th Bruce engineered hardwood flooring, and was planning on purchasing a staple gun to install the flooring (like I needed a reason for a new toy!), what gauge stapler would you all recommend? Bruce doesn't have specific instructions, it just says the staples should be at least 1 inch long.  I've heard if you buy too big a staple (15.5 gauge), it will cause issues with bumps in the flooring, but I'm afraid if I get too small a staple then it may not attach properly. Please help! As a side note, how big an air compressor would you all recommend?  I was planning on getting a 6gal, 2.6 scfm at 90 psi compressor, and just want to make sure it will have enough power.

Posted by JMH renovations 5 years ago


Can Hardwood Shred ABS?

I am thinking of making a prototype plastic crusher/shredder out of a hardwood instead of steel. Do you think that a hardwood would be able to grind a plastic such as abs into small pellets? If so what kind of wood would be best? What if I made a plywood out of hardwood to strengthen the grain? What if I just use nice plywood?

Posted by rednax718 2 years ago



Where did you get the exotic hardwoods? Answered

(Question assumes that you posted this while living in SF per your profile)I just moved back to the Bay Area a few months ago, and am having trouble finding a good place to buy small pieces of exotic hardwood in person (I would prefer not to order over the web since I can't see the exact piece)Was the photo of the "hardwood sticks $2.00/each" taken somewhere local? If so, where?

Asked by ChristopherO57 1 year ago


What is the best way to replace a damaged slat in a solid hardwood floor?

We have a few damaged slats in our hardwood floor and we would like to replace them. We've purchased new slats and we've removed the old ones (mostly) but we were wondering how to place the new slats into the floor. What do you use for a vapor barrier? How do you affix the slats to the floor? Home Depot is not providing much help.

Asked by Marjy 8 years ago


Power and cost? Answered

To cut 12 mm softwood /hardwood/plywood what would the approx power requirements and costs involved

Asked by cockleman1 1 year ago


Cutting Hardwood? Answered

So, I've been wondering about cutting different densities of wood. I picked up some relatively hardwood from my local shop "Langevins et Foret" here near Montreal. VERY nice store with an amazing selection of wood by the way. But now I'm left wondering what's the best way of cutting some of this wood. I have 3 choices of saws to work with: a) hand held cordless Makita with a 7 1/4" blade b) Dremel SawMax with a little carbide disc blade c) a monster mitre saw with a 12" blade. The next question would be, after choosing a saw, what type of blade should I use? I assume that cutting very hard woods will have very different demands on a blade...maybe you could enlighten us a bit on this topic

Asked by Taolin 1 year ago


materials and tools? Answered

Hi.. first great software.. Any idea where i could find more knowledge about what tools to use for the different kinds of materials.. I can imagine that hardwood requests different tools (and settings) as softwood, metal or plastics...

Asked by PaulB453 1 year ago


Random Question

 Can you guys take a quick look at the instructions for my Intervention, M4, and F2000 and tell me which you like best?  They each have a different background, and I want to know which you guys prefer.  The Intervention is on hardwood, the M4 is on carpet, and the F2000 is on a rug.   Thanks

Posted by MotaBoi 7 years ago


how do you clean dirty hard wood floors? Answered

My hardwood floors are dirty at high traffic areas. I prefer not to sand them because of the mess sanding makes. I have heard that they could be cleaned by using a liquid refinisher. Is this true and what is the best brand/

Asked by 8 years ago


can i find a source for small purchases of craft and 'small scale woodworking endeavor' supplies?

Where can i get things like: magnets, squeeze bottles w/ spout (for glu and finishing substances, like shellac and poly-u), industrial ammonia -- 28 % or so, hardwood lumber, etc. ? thanks, rich

Asked by Rich99 9 years ago


how to revive old wood? Answered

I want to use old planks that have been exposed to the weather for +20 years. the wood has no paint and no lacquer. i tried to step on 0,5 inch plank but it crushed like a toothpick. i am quite sure the wood isn't hardwood so it is even more fragile after so many years. should i revive it or forget about it?

Asked by Karletto555 8 years ago


where can i get software/hardware for my cnc?

Where i can get all the hardware and software required for my first cnc machine?i am a carpenter so the mechanical part of my build is second nature.but clueless when it comes to tech.can anyone help me out in lamins terms?ie.where to get pre-built pcb's and motors strong enough to cut hardwoods?software aswell thanks.

Asked by joker23234 9 years ago


Advice on building a coffee table?

I am in the process of building a coffee table out of Tassie oak wood and I am wondering if I will need to put the table top through a thicknesser after I biscuit  join the top together. The only problem the max width the thicknesser can handle is 600mm wide and I want to make the top wider but then I won't be able to put it through the thicknesser so can I just sand the top to make it nice and even since it is hardwood or thickenesser it in two sections . Open for suggestions thanks for your help.

Asked by legend4930 4 years ago


Would it work to buy lumber and make my own wood floors?

I am thinking of buying some cheap lumber from a lumber yard nailing it into my floors and sanding it down ...wondering if that would be ok without the cost of buying real hardwood floors...My staircase is pine and loks awesome... our stairs are pine.  just sanded and stained and my staircase looks centuries old! it worked for them thinking that might work for my floors in my three small bedrooms....

Asked by drummergirl79 8 years ago


Free Hardwood, Dragon Eggs, Green Explosions...

Sign-up for our newsletter here. Jan. 24, 2008 Welcome back! This week we announced the Get the LED Out! Speed Challenge. Make an awesome Instructable featuring LEDs and win a TV-B-Gone kit! The Homemade Holidays winners have been announced. See who won here! Which of our 14 great finalists should win the $15K VersaLaser? Help decide! Check out these cool instructables! Make a gorgeous Dragon's Egg Turn a regular egg into a fantastic looking dragon's egg in a few minutes with a bit of hot melt glue gun glue and some paint. posted by KaptinScarlet on Jan 23, 2008 Encode data in 2D on your T-shirts, business cards and stickers ! Use QR code, a 2D bar code, to encode fair amount of data that can be read with cell phones! posted by 5Volt on Jan 17, 2007 How to Start Fire with Water! Start a very cool green combustion with just a few drops of water!posted by pudi.dk on Jan 17, 2008 Carrot Caviar Jump on board the Molecular Gastronomy train by making up some carrot caviar in your own kitchen. posted by mzed on Jan 18, 2008 Awesome led cube You never know when you might need a glowing cube to convince people you are from the future. posted by AlexTheGreat on Jan 23, 2008 Speed Challenge! Vote on the finalist pages! Book shelf? ...what book shelf? Here is a method of displaying the artistic covers of a book when space on a table or shelf is not available for displaying it. posted by watermelon on Jan 20, 2008 Make your own Roll-Up Keyboard Have you ever wanted one of those pricey roll up keyboard but didn't want to spend the money? Here is a quick and dirty way to make your own. posted by Auger+Duval on Jan 22, 2008 How to Remove A Fishing Hook Using Fishing line If you get a fishing hook stuck in your finger, salvation is a quick tug of fishing line away from you. posted by back-cast on Jan 23, 2008 Build your own computer Why buy a computer from a manufacturer like Dell or Gateway, when you could build a more powerful computer for less money? posted by bmlbytes on Jan 19, 2008 How to Get Cheap or Free Hardwood Lumber Here's how to buy new lumber in bundles for less than firewood. This seems to work best for hardwoods, cabinetmaker type stuff. posted by TimAnderson on Jan 21, 2008 Show us your yarn! There's still time to enter pictures of your yarn projects in the Lion Brand Yarn Challenge!! Here are some of the 222 projects already entered- check them out, talk to the crafters, and get inspired! Hats Afghan Shawl Ornaments Goldfish   Now go make something awesome, and I'll see you next week! - Eric

Posted by fungus amungus 10 years ago


Major Boat Voyage

Ok, My sister is getting ready to build a hardwood boat. She's an art student and it will be a semester project. She's planning to use Mahogany, Oak and Cedar. She's shooting for a 22' V-hull with a partial canopy. Whatever she does, she always does a great job. I have no doubts as to the fine craftsmanship that will go into this vessel. THe problem is, she's in New York City, and it will need to be moved to west Tennessee or central Arkansas. I could just build her a trailer, but that would be boring. I want to float it to it's destination. How would I go about floating it that far south? I am a fairly good nautical pilot, but that is a massive trip for such a small vessel. I would have about 4 weeks to do the trip, and could probably trailer it a short distance fom NYC to get started. Any Ideas?

Posted by skunkbait 9 years ago


Plywood Challenge: Bike Polo Arena

The chain link fence around our Bike Polo arena  needs a 1' high runner at ground level. You can't bounce a Polo ball off a fence. I've found over two THOUSAND small 12" x 18" x 1" plywood  pieces (hardwood, not OSB) . At $0.25 apiece, these are 1/10 the cost per square foot of Home Depot! What is the CHEAPEST way you can think of to permanently join 8 pieces in a row, edge to edge? You have $0.50 per join. You must be able to lift the assembly and smile, confident and proud of its rigidity.  Already thought of: Gluing (biscuit, tongue and grove, etc): Lots of work, might work with the right process. Sandwiched between sheets (HDPE, HIPS, PC, etc): Expensive, >$1 per ft^2 Webbing, Jacob's Ladder style: Webbing ain't cheap

Posted by Marathon 4 years ago


How Sharp are Carbide Insert SHIMS? Machinists, never used these so I need help! Answered

I have a few secret upcoming projects in which I plan on using carbide turning inserts. Both for woodworking and metalworking projects, but not machining - their intended use.I was wondering if anyone has any experience using these. I was looking at buying square inserts, but I can find only shims like this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/292307002360 . Do you know if these are even slightly sharp? I mean, can I scrape wood with them with my hand, not in a milling cutter? Will they cut wood?If not, I was thinking about getting something like this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/173054401114 or https://www.ebay.com/itm/391346000853How sharp actually are these actual carbide inserts? Will these be able to scrape hardwood if I for example, hold them with pliers and scrap them across wood?Thanks!

Asked by Yonatan24 2 months ago


Show, Tell And Brag

Okay, i know that an acronym of the title of this forum would be STAB (sort of appropriate, really. Heh.) but seriously:What's everyone been up to?I think i'll start this off by posting a pic of my 2 newest knivesWerl, actually, the integral one's been finished for ages, but i only got around to finishing it off lately, but the triangular-ish bladed one's been made in only 2 days (usually i take a break of a few weeks before finishing, so that's out of the ordinary for me)The handle slabs are an unidentified hardwood (padauk, i think), the bolsters are mild steel, with mild steel pins, blued with bluing solution, and the blade's 440-CIf anyone wants me to, i'll put up an instructable on how to make one like this, and on how to make a kitchen paring knife.Post your pics here, tho make them pics of FINISHED jobs, please.That way, i'll have to post far fewer. Just finished this...2 weeks ago, hence the rust.Nice persian-y slicer.

Posted by Vendigroth 10 years ago


Convert an old canister vac to a harness/backpack vac?

Greetings Instructables Brethren! I've been getting along with all hardwood and no vacuum cleaner for 7 years now, and now with kids, I am admitting defeat, but still can't take that dreaded step into the spiral of ever-shortening planned obsolescence cycles for ever-more-expensive and flimsy junk. I'm looking for a way to turn an old Electrolux or other simple, repairable, and reliable antique canister vac, into a backpack vac. I wanted to do this Instructable myself, but between the 3 kids and being only armed with a dustmop and broom, I haven't got the time to do all the project development! Can someone out there with a few tools and a Monster Hacker / steampunk mentality, convert an old canister vac to a trusty Ghostbuster-style Backpack Duster? It will need a superlong cord, though most of those oldies-but-goodies did come with that.  And if you do this successfully, and can see fit to sell it on the Instructables Store, you probably have your first customer, right here!

Posted by megmaine 6 years ago


What parts are needed to build a sensitive, push-plate activated, solenoid valve to act as a cat water fountain?

Hello Instructables Community! I am on a mission to water my cats! I have two cats that prefer to drink straight from a running water tap than from their bowl. I don't know if it is a freshness thing, or if it is just their odd nature, but they will always go for running water over a clean bowl of water any day! Also, they tend to drag their bowl of water around and it gets everywhere and is ruining my hardwood floors. So, I would like to accomplish the following: Build a push-plate activated water fountain that has flow controlled by a solenoid valve. I hope to train the cats to push on the plate in order to activate the water so that they can drink. I am hoping that the community may point me in the right direction to find the parts I may need for this project. I am hoping that the plate will be something small and relatively flat so that it does not stick up from the side of the bathroom sink too much. Many thanks!?

Asked by audiological 6 years ago


Square tubed sign post with holes?

Hey all, I'm in warren Michigan area. I found a great place for some decent sized scrap hardwood like maple, oak, cherry. Sometimes walnut or other more exotic types. North of warren in Fraser there is a cabinet company called audia, in the back they have a large amount of 1-1/2" wide X20' lengths! Also, a place called laired plastics has an assortment of different color, sheet plastics various thicknesses as well as blocks of white plastics. In the back they have several bins with different material in each one...  Now, i need a place to get square tubing with the holes in them. I need about 12' of it but i don't need any piece longer than 1' anyone know of the business types that would specifically deal with this stuff? I see them knocked down by cars very often, i can work with those! Lol i just need to know where to look to find them. Google has an overwhelming amount of suppliers, but i don't need long sticks i just need some scraps... Call me cheap, buti would like to find them for as free as possible!

Posted by SlickSqueegie 5 years ago


Peach-Pit Flooring - Go Green while staying healthy!

Ever wonder what happens to those peach pits you throw out? No, I bet you don't, so here is an interesting new design utilizing the pits from peaches to create some neat flooring.http://www.luxist.com/2008/03/22/eco-friendly-flooring-made-of-peach-pits/Think "eco-friendly home design" and a lot of different options come to mind, but I'm willing to bet fruit pits as flooring isn't one of them.Alla le Roux feels differently however, and after being inspired by personal experience has started a business ( Stone Fruit Floors ) that designs and sells handmade flooring created out of peach pits. The pits are sanded down (to get rid of sharp edges and make them more comfortable to walk on) and set into the floor by hand along with glue, sand, and a resin mixture. The end result looks like a strange mix between hardwood, tile, and linoleum.Interesting... I'm not really sure what else to say about this!Check out the whole process here.Here is another gallery of the floorsSomeone has got to learn how to make these...will it be you? We can do it! Plus, you get the benefits of eating peaches!

Posted by Brennn10 10 years ago


Removing seriously rusted bolts?

I picked up this old and weather worn but nice bench at Goodwill.  Made of REAL materials, metal and wood.  No plastic!   The first link below shows the whole bench.  The slats are deteriorated and if I can't rehab them I will look for a hardwood pallet to repurpose.  The problem I'm facing is that the 1/4" steel bolts attaching the slats have rusted.  I will replace these with stainless steel bolts, but I first need to remove the rusted bolts, without damaging the frame or further damaging the wood.  The other two links show the two sides of the bolts.  I think these are beyond loosening with WD-40.  The best I can think of is to grasp the back end of the bolt with a locking plier and drill through the head with a 1/4" bit.  If you know of a better method, I'd like to hear.   Another question is, once I have this bench rehabed, it will be sitting where it gets exposure to the sun for most of the day. What is the best clear coating that I can apply to preserve the wood under this circumstance? Bench http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t306/lesiz/Bench-1.jpg Screw (front) http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t306/lesiz/BenchS.jpg Nut (back) http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t306/lesiz/BenchN.jpg

Asked by LesB 5 years ago


How to stretch holes in a steel frame?

I ran into a glitch in rehabing an old park bench.  The wooden slats were rotted out, so I'm saving the wrought iron end frames and fitting them with new poplar slats.  I included a mid-project picture below of one of the end frames. I don't know if you can notice from the picture, the holes in the frame for mounting the slats were not in a straight line, but rather haphazardly.  So each board needs to be custom-drilled to match the mounting holes in the frames. Problem is, I originally measured the distance between the bolts on one of the old slats and used that measurement to drill ALL the new (expensive) hardwood boards.  I had made the careless assumption that the holes in the frames would be in a straight line. Never assume good workmanship! After drilling the slats, I applied about 5 coats of clear urethane spar varnish.  The new slats look supreme, and I don't want to zorkk them up by drilling a second hole in each board to match the stupid end frames.  So the only way out of the quagmire I can see is to drill the frame to match the boards.  OK! Problem is, most of the new holes in the frames would intersect the old holes, and I know that drilling an intersecting hole is problematic, especially in 3/16" steel.  So I need advice on how to stretch holes in steel into an oval shape.  I'm thinking some sort of router bit, or a grinding bit that I could use with a hand drill. Suggestions?  Thanks.

Asked by LesB 4 years ago


How strong is sheet steel? I am thinking of a rugged Kindle Case?

I want to make an extremely strong case for my kindle, the kind of case where I could sit on it and not cause a problem. I'm also worried about the corners of heavy books hitting it right in the middle and breaking it through the case. I have thought about sheet steel, flattened PVC and wood. Wood adds a decent amount of thickness to be rigid enough, and I wouldn't know where to buy thin hardwood planks. PVC I don't believe is all that rigid once it's been turned into flat sheets. Sheet steel is readily and cheaply available on Ebay between 0.18mm (0.007 inches, or 36 gauge) and 1.7mm (0.06 inches, or 15 gauge), and probably higher. I don't care about the weight as much as the thinness and strength/rigidity, so I thought sheet steel might be the best option but I've never worked with it. Suggestions? Edit: I would add some sort of shock protection, ie: neoprene, but it's not dropping that I'm worried about. The design would be two flat pieces sonnected by a fabric "hinge," similar to this: http://www.amazon.com/Marware-Atlas-Kindle-Touch-Cover/dp/B005HSG3L0/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1340375705&sr=8-6&keywords=kindle+case I would add raised edges surrounding the Kindle on the "bottom" piece of metal, so that the two pieces wouldn't squeeze the kindle between them when pressure was added.

Asked by ballardst 5 years ago


8/10/25mm Construction Kit

I would like to propose a standard for the design of an "Erector Set" type construction kit based on a standard 10mm thick by 25mm wide rail with 8mm holes spaced 25mm apart.  The metric sizing would insure a global participation in the design process.  The main construction rails could be built from any smooth grained hardwood such as hard maple in North America or several other species I have seen used in Europe or ABS plastic, Aluminum, etc. Alternatively, a 5/15 - 3/8 - 1 inch format might find greater acceptance in the US which would allow for use of many standard components such as skate board wheels which use a 5/16 shaft for bearings, etc. Given a standard hole size, thickness, and spacing, a variety of 3D printed components could be designed by the community as add-ons to the basic kit.  Ideally such designs would be done in Autodesk Inventor based on PARAMETRIC MODELS that could be adjusted for say both a mm and inch standard. Laser cutting at TechShops, 3D printing, and other simple home shop built components for connectors, etc., as well as suggestions for utilizing other standard building components such as say plastic tubing for spacers, and other standard hardware components, would greatly expand the features of the construction kit. Ideally Makers, TechShop members, home woodworkers, etc. would produce kits and make them available to "young inventors and engineers" in our school systems as a community project. While I have suggested the above mentioned dimensions, these and other basic considerations should be vetted in a crowd sourced forum before any standards are set.

Posted by astroyny 4 years ago


PLANS Dragon Tiger Chu Ko Nu Repeating Crossbow

This is a set of complete plans for a Dragon or Tiger "Chu ko nu." To be purchased on Etsy as a downloadable set of files: https://www.etsy.com/listing/272230762/dragon-or-tiger-chu-ko-nu-plans?ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=repeating crossbow&ref=sr_gallery_1    It is an ancient Chinese mechanical repeating crossbow. The plans include the printable dragon and tiger patterns that you glue on to your wood pieces, then cut out and wood-burn the beautiful pattern. Then you can paint or stain it how you want to. It is a crossbow and a sculpture, like a display woodworking item that is also fun to shoot! Assembly instructions here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SCGHTDqgWHU I have been fascinated by this type of crossbow since my early teen years and have been building and experimenting with them for more than 10 years. This set of plans displays my most current and refined iteration. It is very fun to make this and see your own fine work come together, then see and feel the mechanism function smoothly. Very satisfying. To build this you will need some small hardwood boards as will be listed on the cover page of the plans (this wood is available at hardware stores ex: Lowes). You will also need white glue, two wood screws, and one small nail. The plans are delivered to you as a digital download in a zip file with all the pages in it. Tools needed include: Saw (prefer a band saw with scrolling blade, but a thin bladed hand saw can work), Sand paper, Round wood file, Clamps for gluing, Drill with selection of bits, Wood burning tool.

Posted by Jaycub 2 years ago


Flea treatment for our pets....

I recently had to move house and within two weeks of settling in my cats got attacked by fleas while outside. All the years they had not a single tick or flea so I did not pay too much attention until I spotted the first flea. Needless to say that once you spot one there are many hiding already... From past experience with my dog I did not trust the over the counter flea collars and decided to go to my vet. They recommended Frontline for the treatment, plus a flea bomb to treat the house and washing everything the cats like to sleep on. Came to just under $100AU - ouch... Mind you I have hardwood floors here, so I was quite confident the bomb would could kill all what might remain inside. The cats were kept indoors too to prevent new fleas finding them outside. Well, after two weeks of daily combing for fleas the problem did not get better - it got worse! Seemed they were having parties on my cats. Back to the vet to complain I was told it might take a bit longer to show the desired results. Hmmm, treatment every 4 weeks and after 2 weeks nothing happened?? On the way out an old couple with their two maltesers stopped me and said that they already gave up on Frontline and most other products as the fleas around here are resistant to the meds. They now only use Neem oil that is massaged into the skin and fur of their dogs. Sadly my cats would rather scratch me into meat strips then to let get near them with the oil. So I did some asking around with my friend Google and the story of the old folks seems to be confirmed for most parts of Australia anyway. Most flea collars and over the counter meds might still work to keep fleas away but not anymore to actually treat your pet once infected with more than a handful of fleas. And yes, I am aware of those sprays claiming to kill all fleas instantly but I also know cats like to clean themself and don't like the idea of them liking the spray off the fur. After some more digging I found out that Selamectin is still working and that works in several ways to control fleas and other parasites like heartworm and such. You can look it up on Wiki if you like. What I like about this med is the fact that fleas are really filthy things eating their own excremts. Since the poo is usually everywhere in the fur and hard to remove it makes the killing even easier. Plus in all spots where fles might be hiding but have noone to feed on they still eat their own ..... and die off. My vet only had Revolution available at a price of almost 25 bucks per single dose - no thank you... Instead I decided to bite the bullet and try one of the many online pharmacies for pet supplies. Here I found "Stronghold" containing the above Selamectin similar to Revolution in concetration (bit higher though)... The website stated to expect about 4 weeks for the delivery being xmas season and so on. For me that meant cleaning everything again, using a normal insect bomb again and a last round of washing the cats caves and other items of interest. To my surprise the parcal arrived ten days later, bit banged up but contents still fine. All up the time for the Frontline was over anyway and instead of paying again for a useless treatment I gave the new stuff a try. This was now two weeks ago and here is my summary: Unlike treating with Frontline my cats actually tolerated the application without going mad, the smell is much more pleasant. Did not expect anything to happen the first day and it takes a while to dry off the furr anyway so they got a day free of the dreaded flea comb. During the first week there was little to no indication of anything good happening but it was to be expected as it takes up to 10 days to build up in the blood as well. On day eight I had my first dead fleas in the comb and from here it got more every day. Mostly the adults while the smaller ones still seemd to be active. To the end of the second week I also got dead young ones in the comb indicating the promised break preventing them to grow up actually works. I will still monitor the process and keep up with monthly treatments during the summer. So you might see an update or two later on. How to properly treat your pet and enviroment once you noticed a flea problem. First: Don't panic! If you have carpet or your pets literally go everyhwere like your bed, sofa and so on you want to combine your effords to avoid a fresh infestation from hatching eggs. Ask around or check online if standard meds still have the desired effect in your local area, if not go for a product that does instead of wasting time and money! Spray treatments or insect bombs can work quite well to control what's left behind by your pet but you need to be aware of the life cycle of the pest in question. For most, including fleas, this means a single treatment might not do the trick. See it that way: You treat the animal, clean everything you can and also kill whatever crawls around. But there is still unhatched eggs and living fleas on your pet. So you need or better should repeat the house treatment 8 to 14 days later to get rid of whatever hatched. Garden beds or just your lawn can be a source of problem too, here Neem oil seems to do the trick quite well but you can use other products from your local garden center as well. What kills most harmful insects out there on your plant will do similar on fleas. To get the timing of all treatments right you might want to start on your pet and use a good, normal clean for the house and fabrics. Once you see the fleas go dead on your pet treat the rest. This way you can be sure all fles that make it onto your pet won't survive or produce more viable eggs. Now use whatever suits you to remove or kill the eggs, larvea and crawling fleas around you. If done right and the meds take care of eggs too you won't have any further problems. Regular checks should be done anyway and if you already know fleas are a problem in your area then please continue the treatment on your pet until the season is over. Things you might want to know to calm down a bit and prevent panic: Fleas on your pet are usually only biting them but not you. This does not mean they won't try if you have hundreds of them crawling in your bed. But they won't stay on you and it takes a good amount of bad luck to get bitten instead of just noticing something crawls on you. So the risk of getting some weird desease from an accidental flea bit is slim. When to be careful with a flea infestation? If you are allergic to their excrements or have an otherwise compromised immune system the dust containing flea excrements can cause reactions. So if your pets got you a lot of fleas and you notice breathing problems, red skin areas or itching you should contact your GP to discuss the problem and possible options. Short term a normal paper face mask like used for dust will help, same for anti-histamines if it is an allergic reaction. The best cause of action is to use a vacuum cleaner with HEPA filter on everything that might get into contact with your pets. A standard vacuum cleaner will pick up the extremets too but just blows it out the other end making things far worse.

Posted by Downunder35m 1 year ago


i will the 4wdrobot with lcd that show the obstacle and the distance cm help please the code?

/*  2011-10-03  robot4wd_06.pde  Eric Pavey - www.akeric.com  This software is released to the wild, free to be used and modified.  If you use it,  I just ask for some credit ;)    Program to drive the 4wd robot chasis using an arduino paired up with a ping))) sensor  and a servo for collision detection.    Hardware:    Arduino Duemilanove (but I'm sure any others will work)  http://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/ArduinoBoardDuemilanove  Arduino is powered off a 5xAA producing 7.5v, sitting in the belly of the chassis.    Main chassis is the "4wd mobile platform" from DF Robot  http://www.dfrobot.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=37&product_id=97  http://www.makershed.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=MKSEEED8  http://www.rugcommunity.org/page/dfrobot-4wd-arduino-mobile    Motor control using the Adafruit motorshield:  http://www.ladyada.net/make/mshield/index.html  There doesn't seem to be API docs, but there is this header file:  https://github.com/adafruit/Adafruit-Motor-Shield-library/blob/master/AFMotor.h  Motor shield is powered off 4xC batteries (6v).    Paralax ping))) :   http://www.parallax.com/tabid/768/ProductID/92/Default.aspx  http://www.arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/Ping  Notes:  I had to rewire the ribon connecting the ping to the motorshield:  The  ping's ribon is ground\+5v\signal, but the motorshield's input pins order are +5v\ground\signal.  It works from 2cm to 3m.    Paralax (Fubata) "standard servo":  This is found in the "PING))) Mounting Bracket Kit":  http://www.parallax.com/Store/Robots/RoboticAccessories/tabid/145/CategoryID/22/List/0/SortField/0/Level/a/ProductID/248/Default.aspx  This is plugged into the 'servo2' port on the motorshield.  It uses the servo library:  http://arduino.cc/en/Reference/Servo    Much of the ping code at the bottom is taken straight from the Arduino examples.  */ //-------------------------------------------------------------------------- // Library include stuff: #include   // needed for the motorshield. #include   // motorshield needs this for running servos. #include LiquidCrystal lcd(3, 4, 5, 6, 11, 12); //-------------------------------------------------------------------------- // globals: // ping))) stuff: int g_pingPin = 19; // this is actually analog pin 5, pretending to be digital, on the motorshield. long g_collideDist = 50; // in cm, how far before collision mode kicks in? long g_cm = 300; // the current ping reading, just ana initial default. boolean g_checkLeft = false; // used for collision detection boolean g_checkRight = false; // used for collision detection boolean g_checkCenter = false; // used for collision detection int g_leftDist = 0;  // used for collision detection int g_rightDist = 0;  // used for collision detection // motor stuff: AF_DCMotor g_motor1(1, MOTOR12_8KHZ); // back left AF_DCMotor g_motor2(2, MOTOR12_8KHZ); // back right AF_DCMotor g_motor3(3, MOTOR12_8KHZ); // front right AF_DCMotor g_motor4(4, MOTOR12_8KHZ); // front left byte g_motorSpeed = 255; // max is 255 // Mode (state) stuff: byte g_mode = 1; // 1 = drive, 2 = proximity check, 3 = turning byte g_driveDir = -1; // 0 = stop, 1 = straight, 2 = right, 3 = left // servo stuff: Servo g_servo2; int g_servo2pin = 9; // servo2 uses digital pin 9, even though the docs say pin 10... int g_servoCenter = 98; // in degrees.  98 is straight ahead based on how I mounted the servo (it must be     // a little inaccurate).  full left is 180, full right is 0.     // Servo is flipped upside down, fyi int g_servoRight = 135; // how far right?  Max is 180, full right. int g_servoLeft = 45; // how far left?  Min is 0, full left. // time stuff unsigned long g_time;  // global time tracker unsigned long g_ptime;  // global previous time tracker unsigned long g_elapsed = 0;  // helps keeping track of framerate. unsigned long g_interval = 33; // in ms (about 30fps).  This slows down the processing allowing the     // multiple systems to play nicely together.  Make this number smaller and it won't have enough     // time for each state to run properly:  The servo won't do a full sweep when scanning. unsigned long g_turnlength = 750; // in ms, how long to turn for.  Since we don't know how far     // it turns, we just guess on how long it should.  The type of terrain turing on has a great     // effect on what this should be.  This value works well for my hardwood floors. unsigned long g_turnUntil; // used to track how long to turn. //-------------------------------------------------------------------------- // setup \ loop : void setup() {   // Attach & center the servo:   g_servo2.attach(g_servo2pin);   g_servo2.write(g_servoCenter);  // center it by default   // Setup our framerate stuff   g_time = millis();   g_ptime = g_time; } void loop() {   // Main program entry point.     // Need to keep the aiming and the piging at a fixed rate, or the closer the object gets   // to the ping the faster it will aim, and do bad stuff.   g_ptime = g_time;   g_time = millis();   g_elapsed += g_time - g_ptime;   // Wait for the proper amount of time to pass before we do anything:   if(g_elapsed     return;   }   else{     g_elapsed = 0;   }   //  Do stuff, based on the current mode:   if(g_mode == 1){     g_cm = ping();     // sometimes the sensor returns a 0 value that can foul up things :(     if(g_cm > g_collideDist || g_cm == 0){       // If there is nothing in our way, drive!       if(g_driveDir != 1){         g_driveDir = 1;         move(g_driveDir);       }     }     else{       // if we're too close to something, stop the motors and switch to 'proximity check' mode:       if(g_driveDir != 0){         g_driveDir = 0;         move(g_driveDir);       }       // initialize the proximity check stuff:       g_checkLeft = false;       g_checkRight = false;       g_checkCenter = false;       g_leftDist = 0;       g_rightDist = 0;        // switch to mode 2:       g_mode = 2;        }   }   else if(g_mode == 2){     // Do proximity check!     boolean checked = proximityCheck();      if(checked){       // Define which direction to turn.       // If the right distance is greater than the left distance, turn that direction,       // otherwise go the other way:       if(g_rightDist >= g_leftDist){         g_driveDir = 2;       }       else{         g_driveDir = 3;       }       // now that we've set which direction to turn, start timing how long the turn       // has taken, and switch to mode 3.       g_turnUntil = millis() + g_turnlength;       g_mode = 3;     }   }   else if(g_mode == 3){     // We must be turning!  The logic for switching to other modes is in that function.     turn();   } } //-------------------------------------------------------------------------- // Helper functions: void turn(){   // Executed when g_mode == 3   // Used to turn the robot.     if (millis()     // keep'on turning...     move(g_driveDir);   }    else{     // If we're done turning, see if there is anything still in our way:     g_cm = ping();     // sometimes the sensor returns a 0 value that can foul up things :(     if(g_cm > g_collideDist || g_cm == 0){       // If there is nothing in our way go back to mode 1:       g_mode = 1;     }     else{       // If stuff is still in our way, turn more in the same direction until       // not blocked:       g_turnUntil = millis() + g_turnlength;     }   } } boolean proximityCheck(){   // Used when mode == 2:  Swing the ping left and right taking readings to   // find which way is safe to go.  Returns false when in the middle of the check   // operation, returns true when entire check process is complete.     // Current angle of the servo:   float angle = g_servo2.read();     // check left first: ( full left is 0 deg)   if(g_checkLeft == false){     if(angle > g_servoLeft){       g_servo2.write(angle-10) ;       return false;        }     else{       g_checkLeft = true;       g_leftDist = ping();       return false;       }   }   // check right second: ( full right is 180 deg)   if(g_checkLeft == true && g_checkRight == false){     if(angle       g_servo2.write(angle+10) ;       return false;          }        else{       g_checkRight = true;       g_rightDist = ping();       return false;     }   }   // Go to center position third:   if(g_checkLeft == true && g_checkRight == true && g_checkCenter == false){     if(angle != g_servoCenter){       g_servo2.write(angle-10) ;       return false;     }           else{       g_checkCenter = true;       return false;     }   }   // Finally if we've checked left, right, and got back to center, return true   // to tell the later code that the full check is complete:   if(g_checkLeft == true && g_checkRight == true && g_checkCenter == true){     return true;   }   else{     return false;   } } void move(byte mode){   // This function moves the wheels.  Can be called to when mode == 1 (driving) or 3 (turning).   if(mode == 0){     // all stop!     g_motor1.setSpeed(0);     g_motor2.setSpeed(0);     g_motor3.setSpeed(0);     g_motor4.setSpeed(0);   }   else{     // full speed!     g_motor1.setSpeed(g_motorSpeed);     g_motor2.setSpeed(g_motorSpeed);     g_motor3.setSpeed(g_motorSpeed);     g_motor4.setSpeed(g_motorSpeed);         // full speed, but which direction?     if(mode == 1){       // go straight       g_motor1.run(FORWARD);       g_motor2.run(FORWARD);       g_motor3.run(FORWARD);       g_motor4.run(FORWARD);     }     else if(mode == 2){       // turn right       g_motor1.run(FORWARD);       g_motor2.run(BACKWARD);       g_motor3.run(BACKWARD);       g_motor4.run(FORWARD);      }     else if (mode == 3){       // turn left       g_motor1.run(BACKWARD);       g_motor2.run(FORWARD);       g_motor3.run(FORWARD);       g_motor4.run(BACKWARD);     }   } } float ping(){   // Returns the distance in cm from the ping sensor.  Pulled from   // Arduino docs.     // The PING))) is triggered by a HIGH pulse of 2 or more microseconds.   // Give a short LOW pulse beforehand to ensure a clean HIGH pulse:   pinMode(g_pingPin, OUTPUT);   digitalWrite(g_pingPin, LOW);   delayMicroseconds(2);   digitalWrite(g_pingPin, HIGH);   delayMicroseconds(5);   digitalWrite(g_pingPin, LOW);   // The same pin is used to read the signal from the PING))): a HIGH   // pulse whose duration is the time (in microseconds) from the sending   // of the ping to the reception of its echo off of an object.   pinMode(g_pingPin, INPUT);   long duration = pulseIn(g_pingPin, HIGH);    float cm = microsecondsToCentimeters(duration);   return cm; } long microsecondsToCentimeters(long microseconds){   // Simple conversion setp, kept as a function simply to illustrate   // how it works.  Pulled from Arduino docs.     // The speed of sound is 340 m/s or 29 microseconds per centimeter.   // The ping travels out and back, so to find the distance of the   // object we take half of the distance travelled.   //return microseconds / 29 / 2;   return microseconds / 58; }          // while(val == HIGH) {                  // Loop until pin reads a high value //val = digitalRead(ultraSoundSignal); //timecount = timecount +1;             // Count echo pulse time} //ultrasoundValue = timecount;          // Append echo pulse time to ultrasoundValue //lcd.clear(); //lcd.setCursor(0,0); //lcd.print("OBSTAKEL  cm "); //lcd.print(timecount/10); //delay(200); //if(timecount > 0){ //digitalWrite(ledPin, HIGH);}    

Asked by pe2hlc 5 years ago


Im will create the 4wdrobot with lcd that show the obstacle and the distance cm help please the code?

/* 2011-10-03 robot4wd_06.pde Eric Pavey - www.akeric.com This software is released to the wild, free to be used and modified. If you use it, I just ask for some credit ;) Program to drive the 4wd robot chasis using an arduino paired up with a ping))) sensor and a servo for collision detection. Hardware: Arduino Duemilanove (but I'm sure any others will work) http://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/ArduinoBoardDuemilanove Arduino is powered off a 5xAA producing 7.5v, sitting in the belly of the chassis. Main chassis is the "4wd mobile platform" from DF Robot http://www.dfrobot.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=37&product_id=97 http://www.makershed.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=MKSEEED8 http://www.rugcommunity.org/page/dfrobot-4wd-arduino-mobile Motor control using the Adafruit motorshield: http://www.ladyada.net/make/mshield/index.html There doesn't seem to be API docs, but there is this header file: https://github.com/adafruit/Adafruit-Motor-Shield-library/blob/master/AFMotor.h Motor shield is powered off 4xC batteries (6v). Paralax ping))) : http://www.parallax.com/tabid/768/ProductID/92/Default.aspx http://www.arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/Ping Notes: I had to rewire the ribon connecting the ping to the motorshield: The ping's ribon is ground\+5v\signal, but the motorshield's input pins order are +5v\ground\signal. It works from 2cm to 3m. Paralax (Fubata) "standard servo": This is found in the "PING))) Mounting Bracket Kit": http://www.parallax.com/Store/Robots/RoboticAccessories/tabid/145/CategoryID/22/List/0/SortField/0/Level/a/ProductID/248/Default.aspx This is plugged into the 'servo2' port on the motorshield. It uses the servo library: http://arduino.cc/en/Reference/Servo Much of the ping code at the bottom is taken straight from the Arduino examples. */ //-------------------------------------------------------------------------- // Library include stuff: #include // needed for the motorshield. #include // motorshield needs this for running servos. #include LiquidCrystal lcd(3, 4, 5, 6, 11, 12); //-------------------------------------------------------------------------- // globals: // ping))) stuff: int g_pingPin = 19; // this is actually analog pin 5, pretending to be digital, on the motorshield. long g_collideDist = 50; // in cm, how far before collision mode kicks in? long g_cm = 300; // the current ping reading, just ana initial default. boolean g_checkLeft = false; // used for collision detection boolean g_checkRight = false; // used for collision detection boolean g_checkCenter = false; // used for collision detection int g_leftDist = 0; // used for collision detection int g_rightDist = 0; // used for collision detection // motor stuff: AF_DCMotor g_motor1(1, MOTOR12_8KHZ); // back left AF_DCMotor g_motor2(2, MOTOR12_8KHZ); // back right AF_DCMotor g_motor3(3, MOTOR12_8KHZ); // front right AF_DCMotor g_motor4(4, MOTOR12_8KHZ); // front left byte g_motorSpeed = 255; // max is 255 // Mode (state) stuff: byte g_mode = 1; // 1 = drive, 2 = proximity check, 3 = turning byte g_driveDir = -1; // 0 = stop, 1 = straight, 2 = right, 3 = left // servo stuff: Servo g_servo2; int g_servo2pin = 9; // servo2 uses digital pin 9, even though the docs say pin 10... int g_servoCenter = 98; // in degrees. 98 is straight ahead based on how I mounted the servo (it must be // a little inaccurate). full left is 180, full right is 0. // Servo is flipped upside down, fyi int g_servoRight = 135; // how far right? Max is 180, full right. int g_servoLeft = 45; // how far left? Min is 0, full left. // time stuff unsigned long g_time; // global time tracker unsigned long g_ptime; // global previous time tracker unsigned long g_elapsed = 0; // helps keeping track of framerate. unsigned long g_interval = 33; // in ms (about 30fps). This slows down the processing allowing the // multiple systems to play nicely together. Make this number smaller and it won't have enough // time for each state to run properly: The servo won't do a full sweep when scanning. unsigned long g_turnlength = 750; // in ms, how long to turn for. Since we don't know how far // it turns, we just guess on how long it should. The type of terrain turing on has a great // effect on what this should be. This value works well for my hardwood floors. unsigned long g_turnUntil; // used to track how long to turn. //-------------------------------------------------------------------------- // setup \ loop : void setup() { // Attach & center the servo: g_servo2.attach(g_servo2pin); g_servo2.write(g_servoCenter); // center it by default // Setup our framerate stuff g_time = millis(); g_ptime = g_time; } void loop() { // Main program entry point. // Need to keep the aiming and the piging at a fixed rate, or the closer the object gets // to the ping the faster it will aim, and do bad stuff. g_ptime = g_time; g_time = millis(); g_elapsed += g_time - g_ptime; // Wait for the proper amount of time to pass before we do anything: if(g_elapsed g_collideDist || g_cm == 0){ // If there is nothing in our way, drive! if(g_driveDir != 1){ g_driveDir = 1; move(g_driveDir); } } else{ // if we're too close to something, stop the motors and switch to 'proximity check' mode: if(g_driveDir != 0){ g_driveDir = 0; move(g_driveDir); } // initialize the proximity check stuff: g_checkLeft = false; g_checkRight = false; g_checkCenter = false; g_leftDist = 0; g_rightDist = 0; // switch to mode 2: g_mode = 2; } } else if(g_mode == 2){ // Do proximity check! boolean checked = proximityCheck(); if(checked){ // Define which direction to turn. // If the right distance is greater than the left distance, turn that direction, // otherwise go the other way: if(g_rightDist >= g_leftDist){ g_driveDir = 2; } else{ g_driveDir = 3; } // now that we've set which direction to turn, start timing how long the turn // has taken, and switch to mode 3. g_turnUntil = millis() + g_turnlength; g_mode = 3; } } else if(g_mode == 3){ // We must be turning! The logic for switching to other modes is in that function. turn(); } } //-------------------------------------------------------------------------- // Helper functions: void turn(){ // Executed when g_mode == 3 // Used to turn the robot. if (millis() g_collideDist || g_cm == 0){ // If there is nothing in our way go back to mode 1: g_mode = 1; } else{ // If stuff is still in our way, turn more in the same direction until // not blocked: g_turnUntil = millis() + g_turnlength; } } } boolean proximityCheck(){ // Used when mode == 2: Swing the ping left and right taking readings to // find which way is safe to go. Returns false when in the middle of the check // operation, returns true when entire check process is complete. // Current angle of the servo: float angle = g_servo2.read(); // check left first: ( full left is 0 deg) if(g_checkLeft == false){ if(angle > g_servoLeft){ g_servo2.write(angle-10) ; return false; } else{ g_checkLeft = true; g_leftDist = ping(); return false; } } // check right second: ( full right is 180 deg) if(g_checkLeft == true && g_checkRight == false){ if(angle 0){ //digitalWrite(ledPin, HIGH);}

Asked by pe2hlc 5 years ago