How do i go about moulding plastic, how to make a mould how to melt the plastic any ideas
Asked by johnnywgk 9 years ago
I'm trying to mould plastic milk bottles (pieces of) into a shape onto a mannequin..... for a comp...... i'm making an outfit.... and to mould to a body shape (curves)
Asked by antheajane 8 years ago
Can i use my origenal to make a mould, any suggestions, then i'll be back to ask, what do you mean, how do i do that, where can i get one of those from etc. etc. hehe thanks johnny
Asked by johnnywgk 9 years ago
Hi ... I would like to ask fro help to find the proper ENGLISH word/name for what I'm looking for. I would like to make a plastic handle (for a knife) and a holster. My grandpa had a stuff for this, where he moulded it, put the metal part of the knife handle inside and left it to become hard. I have found something like the POLYMORPH but I'm just a little bit concern - wouldn't it be to soft ??? Or the low melting point ??? The stuff that my grandpa used became hard as a rock. And when you wanted to remove it, you had to break it ... and it breaks exactly like rock, glass (it wasn't soft). Thank you in advance for any suggestions.
Asked by zholy 7 years ago
Hello I was wondering if anyone was interested in buying the molds I created to make the cast and carve chocolates in my instructable. https://www.instructables.com/id/Carve-an-cast-chocolate-treets/ It means you don't have to go through the pesky business of carving or making our own molds to end up with some fun chocolates.. or you could use something like plaster and end up with some nice casts.
Posted by world of woodcraft 2 years ago
Hi, I have some aluminum sheeting that I bought in a roll from a hardware store. It is aluminum flashing, and although it has no rating, I assume it is about 26 gauge (.019") because if I remember right thats the standard. I cut the roll into 4x14" strips. Right now they behave like sheet metal, kind of springy and difficult to mould. What I need is more like thick aluminum foil, where it can be bent all around, multiple times without breaking and retain shape incredibly well. I've tried to cold work the aluminum by bending it and running it over an edge but its not very effective. Is it possible to easily anneal the aluminum in a conventional oven or using a propane blowtorch? I don't want to exert too much effort on each piece because they're going to have a short life before I hand them off and they get thrown away. In case you're wondering or need more details: I'm trying to make moldable aluminum splints, like the SAM splint. Pre-made SAM splints cost $4 each but this sheeting would work out to under $.11 each. In case you aren't familiar with them, SAM splints are essentially a plate of thick aluminum "foil," about 4"x36" wrapped in foam. The cool thing about them is that you can bend them very easily to any shape or body part, but when you mold them into a curve they have incredible strength to support an injury.
Asked by SeniorShizzle 6 years ago
Is there any others cheap meterial to make mould??? If the mould big the silicone mixture will be too expensive
Asked by recuat 1 year ago
Hi all. I have an item that I need to make silicone copies of. I don't want silicone moulds, but the actual end product to be silicone. What is the best way to do this? I have tried looking up but everything is "silicone moulds for xxx" and not what I want. Thanks!
Posted by JackOGara94 3 years ago
My actual need is to know some sort of moulding material that is flexible like rubber, from which i need to get a mould of some carving which have curves and groovs. This moulding material should be easy to find and readily available anywhere and cheap. What I have in mind is some material like fiberglass which is used for moulding but should be flexible like rubber. May be if there is some possibility to use some rubber compound that could harden once poured on to an object to obtain a mould of the object. ( Simple need is what material could be used for this purpous or How I could produce this myself )
Asked by Ifthikar Ahamed 8 years ago
Instead of sending a family portrait to my nan, I've been thinking a trophy of my family's heads would be pretty sweet. I wanted to get a mould of our head and put giant antlers on top, you know like an elk or deer. Has anyone got suggestions as to the best way to go about this?
Asked by R1Ch0 7 years ago
I have recently brought a hollow wearable ironman helmet cast from Polyurethane resin. I was wondering if its possible to take a mould of this helmet to recast it make replicas? any help would be greatly appreciated..? I have uploaded a picture of the helmet so you can see it.. Thanks Chris
Asked by chris27989 8 years ago
Hey everyone i am looking for some assistance or advice i have created a sculpture for a project i am working on and would like to reproduce it what would be the best mould to use to be able to reproduce this ,i have added 2 images of my sculpture if it helps at all any and all help would be greatly appreciated
Posted by FrancesS3 2 years ago
Hi, I am looking to do an artwork where the final product is a clear plastic resin or epoxy sculpture with various items such as plastic forks and straws inside it. I got this idea from resin flooring which has crushed up beer bottles and screws in it, and now I need some advice. Currently I am thinking that I will make the sculpture from polystyrene and make a mould out of plaster of Paris by pouring the plaster over it in a tub of some sort. Is polystyrene a suitable material to base the mould off and can resin or epoxy be cast in plaster of Paris? Also, how might I go about making 2 parts to the mould which can join together and which I can pour resin in through a hole? Regards.
I have a few antique tin moulds that make a variety of leaf shapes and wanted to frame them. I was thinking of making a cast from the mould to go along with the mould itself to demonstrate what the outcome would be from these molds. As the pieces are antiques (I inherited them from a Great Grandmother) I was not wanting to do any permanent damage to them such as having a resin stick to or dye the tin. Does anyone have a favourite over-the-counter product or a homemade resin idea? I've thought of polymer clay, liquid resin, and plaster. Not sure what would be the best to use. Each have their pros and cons. I was thinking it would be neat to use a homemade recipe as it would have a neat DIY/handmade/antique feel. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated :)
Asked by shoebox 6 years ago
Our company is moulds making company we are trying to make chemical etching
Asked by design-centre 2 years ago
Preferably non-toxic and inert, to make the silicone caulk/gel more viscous, to allow it to flow into a mould more readily.
Asked by brendanmccloskey 5 years ago
Im moulding a model catermeran and im not sure if the vacuum will work or i can use such thick plastic many thanks barry
Asked by barrymasters 8 years ago
Hi, For the game.life contest I want to have a game controller mounted to wood like a trophy. How would I go about making a half-xbox-controller mould for plaster of Paris? If anyone steals the idea I can proudly say that I had the idea first. Thanks, NM P.S Notice how the analog sticks stick out? That could be a challenge :P
Asked by NatNoBrains 7 years ago
Hey again,Does anyone have any experience with this Flexil hot melt rubber stuff I've seen about. It's a vinyl rubber that you melt in a pot around 170 degrees and then pour it over masters and formers to create moulds like you would with RTV silicone (except quite hot). The rubber can be remelted which is a benefit over silicone, but does anyone know of reasons why silicone is better for making moulds with (other than the master possibly melting).Link here: http://www.cfsnet.co.uk/acatalog/CFS_Catalogue__Flexil__554.htmlIncidentally, CFS is also a good place to buy pretty much all casting and moulding materials if you're in the UK at somewhat reasonable prices :-)
Posted by chiok 9 years ago
Hi,I just used a wood mould and had a pretty good result regarding both the general shape of my piece and the surface.Before going to finishing, I would like to know if there is a kind of "first" step to do before even envisaging a finishing treatment, a kind of "state-of-the-art" after mould cleaning of the surface.ThxB
Asked by BaptisteL8 1 year ago
I want to reproduce a bit of jewellery I have designed in pewter by using a 2-part RTV silicone mould. By all accounts it is possible but I've run into some problems when sourcing materials. Most high temperature silicones I have come across state a maximum temperature of 250°C, But pewter has a melting point of around 280°C. My feeling is that the mould itself will most likely never actually reach 280°C and will probably only be above 250°C for a short period of time. But I'm wondering if anyone has actually done this and could verify for me. Also as I'm new to the whole process, any other tips are welcomed. This is the high temp silicone I'm currently looking at. Thanks, -Tom
Posted by madmanmoe64 6 years ago
Im buildng a mould for casing pcl (polymorf) there are issuse with using petroleum jelly as a release agent due to it clogging the pores, im building a highly porus biological scaffold for tissue engineering
Asked by randomhand 8 years ago
I sand carve,diamond, blast ETC, glass, granite, marble, wood, rock ETC. For my 12x6 " mould...I wish to make it from Portland cement, sand some fibre glass mat.......and GRANITE DUST 2% or 30%..so I can legally and morally call it a GRANITE base. It is groved to hold either 1/2" plate glass or a tile of substrate, approx the same thickness. If substrate is heavy or thick I will probably use adhesive for safety., Possible illuminate..Will see as it goes.This is very non orthodox, all my items are...but If I am charging several hundred to several thousand $ IT MUST BE A WORTHY BASE...IN mind is $75.00 to $150 just for the base. GRANITE or MARBLE is perceived $$$$$$$I can take pic of mould for you, I can also fill mould with water to know volume. I have asked many people and received many answers/options....confusion!!!!???? So I am asking A pro. HELPWhat else do you need myself????? Harry Shaboogy firstname.lastname@example.org"perception is reality"
Asked by harry shaboogy 6 months ago
Hi! Could anyone tell me what do I need to do in order to melt old tires and pour the liquid in a mould?
Hello, all. I bought a nice pendant lamp for my house several months back from one of the local big box stores on clearance. I only got around to putting it up recently, and when I opened it (yes, I already feel stupid for not having opened it right away to check on it...), the main glass lamp shade was completely shattered! Sadly, the lamp was on clearance because it had been discontinued, and none of the stores in Canada have any of them in stock anywhere, so getting replacement is impossible. I really like the lamp, though, as it matches several of the other lights that my wife and I have purchased, so I figured that I would try my hand at making a replacement shade! The shade is shaped as follows: it is a section of a sphere 19.5" across (the diameter of the section, not the of the entire sphere), and 5" deep. A little math (x^2 + y^2 = 2yr) lets me know that the radius of the sphere that this shade is a section of is 12". Here is my plan, and I would like to know if I am crazy or if anyone has a better suggestion. I am going to try to cast a replacement shade from polyester resin, 1/4" to 3/8" thick. I was going to make a 2-piece mould from plaster, and use my wood router suspended from a gimbal (on a 12" radius arm) to cut the outer mould. Similarly, I would suspend a plaster blank from the gimbal over my router (on a 11 5/8" radius arm) to cut the inner mould. Then I would simply coat the two halves with mould release and pour/pump the resin into the gap between the halves. I'll tint the resin with some dye to get it the amber colour that I want, then lightly sand to get a smoky translucent finish. My only questions are: 1) will I be able to get this mould apart without destroying the resin casting, and 2) will polyester resin be strong enough for this kind of casting? Another option would be to make a wooden mould, but I thought that I might be able to chip away a plaster mould, whereas a wooden mould would be a lot harder to get off of a stuck casting! Thanks! PS, of course, if this works, I'll post an instructable of it!
Posted by roboguy 3 years ago
Actually it is a question again on same topic but the way the plaster has been used here may change the way it can be recycled. I use plaster of paris to make moulds for glass casting.I want to know if the plaster from these moulds can be recycled since they already have been heated for 24 hours in 800 degrees temperatures. Are the properties lost once heated that high?
Posted by patbagniewski 10 years ago
Im hoping to try and copy or even make a good designed double bladed kayak paddle out of fibreglass kevlar or some type of composite. id probhably make it in 3 parts being the two blades and the shaft. iv never used it before so any ideas will be great. thanks. pad.
Asked by padz 7 years ago
I need to eliminate the air bubbles which form when pouring plaster of Paris into rubber moulds. so i thought i could eliminate this through low vibration as the plaster is being poured and eventually starts to harden.
I´m on a budget and looking for a compound that can either be poured into a mould like plaster or is at least very soft and hardens in a short time without massive shrinking. (low temperature melting metals -> too heavy, plaster -> not rigid and hard enough, epoxy -> too expensive)
Asked by Fypsigon 7 years ago
Hi Mike, Your class is very useful and informative.I have a query regarding applying clear coat, additives, strainers, and other coats on concrete. What should be the time limit to apply on surfaces when we remove casts from mould?
Asked by Pixelboy2017 1 year ago
Im only young so i am new to this but im not using a gun for this im using a catapult
Asked by sharlston 9 years ago