I HAVE A 12V MAKITA CORDLESS DRILL BATTERY I WISH TO REBUILD DOES ANYONE KNOW HOW TO GET THE SEALED BATTERY CASE OPEN
Asked by oderin 9 years ago
when rebuilding a battery pack for a Sears cordless drill,I encountered a tiny diode or fuse or thermistor of sorts,in the wire coming from the negative pole.It appears this is only active during charging. At any rate,what is it and where do you find a new one??
I read the instructable on rebuilding the 14.4v cordless tool battery pack and I've done it before with a decent Milwaukee battery. Now I have one that the thermistor is shot. It said 6k8j on it. It was a disc like an advil pill with two leads. Where would I find a replacement? I've looked on digikey.com but can't make heads or tails of it. I imagine you would want it to stop charging at 70 degrees c like a lot of r/c packs do.
Posted by jdubs 10 years ago
As this video of a modular robot re-assembling itself after being kicked apart by its creators at the University of Pennsylvania shows, the day is soon approaching when even smashing apart our rebellious robot slaves with hammers and axes will not prevent each individually severed body part from crawling towards you across the room, a murderous and autonomous agent of servo-controlled musculature.
Posted by laminterious 10 years ago
Every author, contributor, maker on Instructables ask's early or later this questions: Who and how many are actually rebuilding my instructables? How useful and clear was this Ible for the rebuilder? What improvements have been made? After 5 years and 10 instructables further, I don't have an answer. There is hardly any feedback to answer my main question: How useful is my effort to publish my projects in a way that people can rebuild this (instructable)? Who are the rebuilders? I am a teacher who does not know his pupils. Or more clearly, a writer who knows how many books are sold, but who does not know if they are also read. Some people say in the comments they go to make the project and after that you hear nothing more. How is this for other authors on Instructable? It is legal to have thoughts about this side of the authorship. When it is not for my own joy and curiosity that I make and publish my project's for who else do I make this effort? Maybe the team of Instructable's can initiate a contest for the best reproductions of published instructables. Maybe one of mine is chosen ;-)
Posted by IamWe 4 years ago
This "Fix And Improve It" contest, and many previous Instructables, has me thinking that it would be fun if there was an option to split your first picture into two. Show a "before" and "after" in the same space. The idea has some limitations for instance, showing large room sized pictures would make the thumbnail too small, but I believe smaller projects would benefit from being able to show both aspects at once.
Posted by Attmos 5 years ago
I was just thinking today. I want to get a soldering gun with a desoldering bulb or some kind of device to suck up solder so I can remove parts. I have nearly heaps of old computer motherboards, video cards, ram, and all sort of other things taking up space. And I'm not talking like pentium 3 or old p4 parts, more like P1 and even a few tandy and 486 parts kicking around. I've seen people making earrings and wreaths out of these old parts, but I'm thinking more practical, like what could I be building out of these components. I've never really gotten into things like pic programming and building things on bread boards, however I do have the know how to operate a soldering gun and I wanna get into these things. Could someone point me in the right direction or point me to a forum at least?? It'd be greatly appreciated because I really need a new hobby to do in my spare time instead of blowing my amps.
Posted by Punkguyta 10 years ago
Today i got the 12 batteries required to rebuild the battery in my powerbook 190. i dont know the condidtion of the parts inside the laptop, but it must still be in a somewhat working order because when i hooked it up to an ac adapter (12v, 15a) before, its power light turned on and it made some noises. it didn't fully turn on though, because it needed 24v, not 12. hoping that rebuilding the battery pack would help, i bought 4 cordless phone batteries, each consisting of 3 smaller batteries and equaling 3.6v. all together that created the 14.4v that is needed to replace the original, acid leaked batteries. i wired them in series to get the 14.4v. I think that it may have not worked because the original batteries were nimh (nickel metal-hydride), and these new ones were nicd (nickel cadmium). Upon observing the internals of the laptop earlier, before i bought the batteries, i noticed some peculiar things: -there were a few spots where some components were added, (eg- resistors, capacitors, jumper wires, all were smt) -a unbranded piece in the battery power area, labeled on the board as XFER1. it is black and has five connections on each side of the component, which seem to have copper wires attached to them leading inside the component. -no marked fuses on the board. the (apple released) manual for disassembling the machine states "you can blow a (soldered) fuse on the board", but there are no spots where a fx (x representing a number, eg: f1) is present, and most of the smt components in the suspected area are not marked and lok much like the same piece. can anyone help me figure out what may be wrong? the ac adapter port works but the battery doesn't, would uploading pictures help people help me?
Asked by zack247 7 years ago
I had a blown forward and pinion gear that I replaced last season. The rebuild worked for only a month until it destroyed both gears again. Did I possibly miss something on the rebuild that could of caused this? Incorrect shimming? or a high idle? Any help is appreciated.
Asked by MurfNick 1 year ago
Something to cut foam sheets and like materials ? and would it be strong enuf to use a dremel or sim tools as a milling head?
Asked by ripit 8 years ago
It is a JVC GR-AX280, it is old, the batteries arent discharged yet, however it uses small VHS tapes and those are expensive and old, and tend to not work as well as they should. The other thing is it still woks perfectly fine its just i want a DSLR and i thought mabey making a temporary one out of the lense and etc from it. It also has a almost microscopic LCD type screen where they eye peice is and i thought about making like a hud or somthing. But i am at your mercy people of instructables, do your worst :D
Asked by Jakesthebest 8 years ago
So my crank shaft sensor is starting to slip and causing serious lack of power and loss off efficiency. I got a quote on the part but the cheapest i found was $325 usd. I know you can rebuild a starter and an alternator and so i don't see why i can't rebuild it. If anybody else has any experience with this pleas let me know.
Asked by abadfart 6 years ago
Many people still buy and use a NordicTrack Ski Machine, although these machines are not as popular as they once were. I have talked to people who say they just plain wore out a ski machine. The part that wears is the one-way clutch inside the drive rollers. NordicTrack makes the one-way clutch sound very mysterious. In reality it is a one-way needle bearing and is available from Amazon or locally from a good bearing shop. The internal diameter of the one-way needle bearing used in my machine (Challenger, similar to a 303) is 5/8 inch. The outer diameter is 7/8 inch. The width of the one-way needle bearing from end to end is 5/8 inch. I originally had hopes of being able to install new one-way needle bearings, myself; but, they together with the bronze sleeve bearings on either side of the one-way needle bearing inside each drive roller are pressed into place. Pressing bearings is not a job for the average home tinkerer but requires a bearing press capable of exerting tons of pressure in a very precise manner. You can often have a local machine shop press the bearings in your machine's drive rollers. Or, you can send them away to Nordic Track Guy and have them rebuilt for about $33 with a one week turnaround. The core of the rollers really does not wear out, but new rollers are available on the Internet from $65 to $95, depending on the vendor. From what I can find, some models used an alternate size. Check to be certain you order the correct rollers, if you choose to replace. One of my drive rollers suddenly began to hiccup. It seemed that the clutch did not always release immediately when I pulled my foot forward. Then I noticed a little mush in the response when I began to bring my foot back on the push stroke. Before you rebuild or replace your rollers, try this: Remove one side of your Ski Machine. See the second photo and check the exploded diagram in your manual. Four nuts and two screws, all plainly visible, need to be removed. Slide the washers and the roller off of the top side. The shaft and flywheel can be wiggled out of the other side without removing anything from that side. Remove the washers and the roller from that side, too. Flush the one-way needle bearing by squirting some penetrating oil, like Liquid Wrench, into the bearing. Work it both ways with your smallest finger. Push a facial tissue into the shaft hole in the roller and sop away the penetrating oil and any metallic dust it lifts. Do this several times. Let the rollers air dry. A little lubrication is good. People who comment on lubrication for one-way needle bearings use Tri-Flo (I am not familiar with it.) or they use a little ATF transmission fluid. You want enough to lubricate, but not so much that the bearings slip. (But, see the comments below where the oil impregnated bronze sleeve bearings are supposed to supply enough lubrication for the needle bearings.) Put the rollers back in place on the shaft. Check to be certain they grab on the rearward stroke and release on the forward stroke. Reassemble the machine. Do not forget the washers between the roller and the side board. My machine works again as it should. The day will likely come when this simple fix does not help, and I will need to rebuild or replace the rollers then. But, for now, my rollers have a new lease on life. What follows is for your information. The first photo is of a portion of the back cover of the manual that came with my machine. It shows a cutaway image of the drive roller. The black printing is mine. Notice the three cylinders inside the drive roller. The outer two are bronze sleeve bearings. The center one looks like a roller bearing, but is a one-way needle bearing. A one-way needle bearing is essentially a roller bearing, but the rollers are able to move forward and backward a little in their cage. There is a wedge shape for the axle of each roller that causes the rollers to bind between the bearing cage and the shaft when the rotation is in one direction, but they are free in the other direction. Here is a description of how they work with graphics. This link is for an Instructable about a number of modifications I made to our NordicTrack ski machine, including how it can be stored vertically in a closet. If you do not have a digital monitor for your skier, or need to replace one, here is an Instructable on how to make your own from a digital bicycle speedometer. Check NordicParts for any parts you need, also Nordic Fitness Ski Machines. Danny at Nordic Fitness Ski Machines has some very nice new rollers for sale.
Posted by Phil B 6 years ago
I have a Regina freewheel and i wanted to re-grease the bearings and make it all smooth again. im not sure on how to even start this process, i need help.
I have all the parts but i'm unable to assemble the hub
Asked by mrmouth 6 years ago
Including problems with frozen adjustment , not the outer lock ring, but the adjuster itself. Any thing else involved in disassemby/reassembly of 3 piece cranks and shaft.
Asked by bowen5400 8 years ago
I've got an old Dunlap 103-0602 wood lathe (http://vintagemachinery.org/photoindex/detail.aspx?id=9331 - not my post but that's what I have), but the measurements for the pulley seem very strange and irregular. Anybody know of a 4-step pulley with 2-3/4", 2-1/4", 1-3/8", and 15/16" steps? It's 2.5" wide total on a 5/8" arbor, which are easy to find on McMaster Carr and the like, but those measurements aren't evenly spaced or findable anywhere I've looked online so far. So, first question is does anybody know where I can find a pulley like that? And if not, anybody know a way to easily get the pulley off the arbor? It's pretty old and gunked up - some WD-40 loosened up the bearing like butter, but no such luck on the pulley itself, squirting through the set-screw holes. I've got a motor and everything, I'd love to make this usable, but need some advice. Got any?
Asked by Runeshai 5 years ago
I know how to remove/replace individual cells in the Dewalt battery. Most of my time doing this is removing the insulation pad. I haven't found any solvent for the glue yet. Anyone have a good way to remove the sticky pad?
Asked by horsebroke 7 years ago
Robot and I went out on the town (my wife came along too)I can't afford to go TO fancy or very far, but we get to do something every now and then :-) BTW: the restaurant proper, is called Huckleberry's (formerly named the same as the Hotel).Here's a link to Huckleberry's.Below are the pictures:
Posted by Goodhart 9 years ago
I have a bit of a dilemma with an old rc boat that I'm retrofitting with the board from a cheap rc car that I bought at walmart. The boat is meant to run on two 9.6 volt motors, but the radio board is designed to only handle 6 volts. Is there anyway to utilize the motor leads from the board to trigger some sort of circuit that would allow the board to use it's original 6 volt power pack while supplying the motors with 9.6 volts from a separate battery?
Asked by yuzuru otanashi 2 months ago
I have attempted to get it at Radios shack, and several rebuilders of batteries and they will not sell me one.
Asked by reichardt55 7 years ago
I am rebuilding a half sized stratocaster and I need a new pickguard. I have googled and searched every where but can't seem to find the answer!
Asked by Robot Lover 6 years ago
Does anyone know a good source for obsolete parts? Finding parts for my '72 CB175 is proving to be fairly easy, however, the 1970 Harley M65S (leggero) by Aermacchi is proving much more difficult. Right now I am looking for a Carb rebuild kit for a Del'Orto ME18BS, I am sure there will be others later. If you know where to hunt this down please let me know. Also, I think it could e useful to have a list of good vintage/odd/old parts places for other people fixing, building, or rebuilding bikes and scooters.
Posted by XaqFixx 7 years ago
Looking to take apart a bluetooth headset and rebuild it to look completely different, maybe going with metals or even plastics not sure would be easier/cost effective.
Asked by cerius 5 years ago
Would like to be able to view blow-ups, part #as descriptions, basic procedure steps for repair/replacing any and all parts components and accessories related to this specific vehicle.
Asked by l7lushis 8 years ago
I've been rebuilding an old radio and want to make it entirely wireless. It normally has a 120 volt input with a 15 watt consumption. What kind of battery can I use? Can I make it rechargeable?
Asked by funnylooking5 7 years ago
I'm trying to spot weld battery tabs for rebuilding a Nicad battery. I'm using a 12 volt SLA battery for power. When I touch the leads they get so hot they burn the tabs, but the weld doesn't penetrate the battery. What am I doing wrong?
Asked by johnnytombstone 8 years ago
I love building and rebuilding computers but dont understand the basic components and their functions. I dont know much programming but pick up on it fairly quickly. Thanks for your help.
Asked by sciencemind 8 years ago
I am curious if it is possible to isolate then combine specific molecules into a desired object. Something easy to explain with is the molecular structure of Iron. We know what the structure is and what it is that comprises it. Would it be possible to isolate the different parts, deconstructing, the molecule and then rebuilding the molecule, re materializing, an iron molecule.
Asked by ODIS2100 1 year ago
I would like to rebuild my cordless tool battery pack but I broke the stud connector on top of the pack I can not find any place online or otherwise to purchase it. I can find every thing but that can you help me find it. I
Asked by innthrough 3 years ago
Unfortunately, as I ran out of pieces while building Dystopia, I just had two opportunities: 1st: buy more pieces 2nd: take it down Shadowman39 talked me into taking it down. I just made some pics of the parallel arm lift in the hope someone might rebuild it.
Posted by Sorunome 6 years ago
Does anyone have the circuit for these batteries please ? There is a temp overload (bimetalic type) and also a two diode (? zener) + resistor in series that I presume identifies the pack (voltage) to the charger. I have burnt out pack that I have new cells to rebuild but not certain about the connection / values for those parts. Thanks
Posted by GeoffS15 2 years ago
Asked by I_surf on Motor + LCD + Arduino: Motor Speed Controller With Speed Display 5 months ago