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Casing dimension to install Chilled Water Coil sizes for cooling Answered

I need help on dimensions please. I need to build a box (casing) to install Chilled Water Coils and a squirrel fan to run well water thru for cooling a work shop. In short, I have very cold well water and want to take advantage of it. My shop is 50’ x 29’ x 10’ height. I’m figuring 14,500 cubic feet to cool. What I need to know is if a casing of 24” square that is about 5’ long would be enough to have one coil in front, fan in the middle and a 2nd coil on the other end? I will have a return vent and include at least 4 vents for air out flow. What I’m not sure of is how to calculate if I need to use bigger coils other than 24”? Do I need to give more information to get an answer? Thanks




8 years ago

This is good questions. The shop on a 100 degree day is 86. I'd like to drop it to about 77. The shop is insulated. The well water is 56 degrees. We will not drink this water. It's an old well when we bought. We'll use it for the yard mostly from another valvue. And yes Re-design, the casing will be aluminum with a finned trouth to catch the condensation and move it to the outside. I wouldn't use any wood. I learned that leason from a window unit in my home. Regarding the well water, I have designed it for when the water reaches 75 - 80 degrees I'll open a water valvue to allow the water preasure to replinish the lines. The outlet from this water would go back directly into the water well pump shaft and not the tank. It would not warm up any water that is in the tank. I would suspect or assume that the water is too much volume underground and not be an issue of warming any water source.

Intuitively I would say you had them sized right.  But that's cause I've not looked at the numbers.

How cold is the water? And is there enough water in the well so that you can return the waste water back and not end up heating the well?  And is the return waste water going to be safe to drink?

How warm does it get in your shop without cooling?

How much air does your fan move?

I would put the fan at the back so it is blowing the warmer air.  Otherwise it's going to collect water from condensation and rust.

Speaking of condensation, you need to make arrangements to get rid of the condensation.  Maybe as much as several gallons an hour.  In really humid conditions my shop a/c (window unit) will condense enough to fill up a 5 gallon Home depot bucket in an afternoon.  So the inside needs t be waterproof.  If you're making it out of plywood you can fiberglass the inside carefully making sure that the resin doesn't have any gaps.

I should think you'd need to know how much heat you are trying to move too. Is the building insulated ?