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How do I power these amps?? Answered

I've got these two car amps (see pictures below) that I was given along with the sub that some people already know I have. I was thinking it would probably be better to use one of these amps instead of the one I'm using now but I can't figure out how to power it. I know it's 12v obviously but I'm not sure what to use nor do I know how to get it on in the first place, as there is a remote wire on both amps so that it isn't on draining your battery (in a car of course) while the car is off, is there somewhere I would short this lead? Again, see my pictures below.

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I HACK (author)2008-01-09

haii dude use a computer power supply mabye a 200 watt or lower "B+" means on the psu cut the yellow wore on the big connector that u connect hdds or cd drives to (molex i think) then cut and connect the black wire to the "G" terminal and for the "rem" (remote) wire well buy yourself a car stereo in aus i can get a gud 1 for $60 - $100 and connect that to the psu aswell and connect the stereos rca output to the amp and the remote wire from the stereo to amp , make sure to use fuses and propper wires ect and possibly the fuse cud be the ones used 4 car amps in the first pace be careful -abe

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Punkguyta (author)I HACK2008-01-09

Actually that's exactly what I've been using for my (working) amps, and it works pretty good, I've got cleaner sound out of a car amp that way than it probably is when it's in the car. Oh yeah and you don't need a car stereo for the remote wire for the amp. Just run a short cable from the + to the REM cuz they're both 12V or even add a switch in the jumper cable like I did.

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I HACK (author)Punkguyta2008-01-09

ok koow well i tried that i had that exact same setup as u but i had a pioneer 6x9 connected and i used an ipod with rca cables to the input on the amp and i could only get a really low soundd out of the speakers i tried , any reasons y , that is y i said use a car stereo

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Punkguyta (author)I HACK2008-01-10

The reason why it was really quite was probably because of the gain control on the amp, try turning it up, it's almost the same idea as a normal stereo with a volume control, except gain is used primarily to match an amplifier with an already existing stereo/amp in your car so they're both relativly the same loudness from where you're sitting, try not to turn it up that loud though as it may distort, like I said it's like a volume control, similar but not the same electronics behind it. Another thing would to be to make sure you have the volume on your ipod turned up (common sense but people do forget), don't turn that up all the way either if you're looking for a clean sound, on my ibook I always leave the volume turned down a couple notches from full when it's plugged into my stereo to ensure I get perfect undistorted signal.

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I HACK (author)Punkguyta2008-01-10

yer lol the ipod was on full and so was gain , well dw bout it ill try a diff amp , thanks for all yhe help m8

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Punkguyta (author)I HACK2008-01-11

Well good luck to ya, however one more thing to try with the amp would be to try a new 3.5 quarter to rca cable for the amp, possibly new speakers? If not it's likely pooched, possibly your computer PSU that you're using for your amp aswell, I'd try different combinations, if the next amp does the same thing you'll know the first one wasn't broken unless in a 1 out of 5,000 chance they're both broken with both exact same problems..lol

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NachoMahma (author)2007-09-19

. A computer PS should work as long as it will put out enough amps. And will probably be "cleaner" than using a battery charger (another option). . I'd try to find a wiring diagram before powering it up. Of course, without knowing the manufacturer, that's gonna be difficult. . The punch bass btn is probably just a bass heavy eq. . The crossover switch will depend on your speakers. Use whatever sounds best. 80/120 are probably the rolloff freqs (in Hz). No idea what HP/full/LP mean. . The remote in the second pic may be to power another piece of equipment (eg, antenna), not to turn on the amp. . B+ is a term from the old tube radio days. Either main power in or "always hot" to aux equip. . The remote terminal in the last pic is probably to turn the amp on.

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Punkguyta (author)NachoMahma2008-01-10

>A computer PS should work as long as it will put out enough amps. And will probably be "cleaner" than using a battery charger (another option). . To a sane man, I wouldn't consider a battery charger a second option, it's a battery charger, and doesn't pull enough amperage/wattage that an amp takes, not to mention how the charger probably wouldn't be able to handle the current peaks (especially with rap, it would kill the charger and possibly amp). >I'd try to find a wiring diagram before powering it up. Of course, without knowing the manufacturer, that's gonna be difficult. . It's fairly simple and usually marked with easy to read symbols/lettering because usually most people do lose/throw out their manuals. >The punch bass btn is probably just a bass heavy eq. . Theres a possibility that it might be for subsonic too. > The crossover switch will depend on your speakers. Use whatever sounds best. 80/120 are probably the rolloff freqs (in Hz). No idea what HP/full/LP mean. > The remote in the second pic may be to power another piece of equipment (eg, antenna), not to turn on the amp. . No, thats what the blue REM wire off the head unit is supposed to be for, this is the recieving end I'm sure of it. > B+ is a term from the old tube radio days. Either main power in or "always hot" to aux equip. . Ah so maybe it won't power on because it needs a new tube? Lawl > The remote terminal in the last pic is probably to turn the amp on. . But the first amp isn't? I'm also looking at this post wondering why I'm replying to something I already have thinking this was a new post, but otherwise it should give you something to reply to if you're that bored.

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NachoMahma (author)NachoMahma2007-09-19

. Oh! HP may be High Pass and LP = Low Pass and Full = no eq (full spectrum)

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Punkguyta (author)NachoMahma2007-09-19

Hmm, I found a pdf owners manual for the rockford one but no luck with the "mystery" amp. Last night I tried a battery charger, used the clamps to hold onto some wires I had (thick enough too) and tried putting 12V on both the B+ and rem on the first one and on the second one aswell, neither lit up. I'm guessing that the charger doesn't have enough wattage or something being it is a trickle charger. I'm gonna try the psu, it's yellow wire that's 12V right? And Yes that makes sense as far as the crossover, I'm using it for my sub, which I can supposedly bridge on that rockford amp. Apparently while it's only good for like 30Wx2, if it's bridged it supposedly produced 120W into 4 ohms minimum (Maybe that's why it says punch 120.2 on the bottom??), so that would technically be better and more powerful then the amp I'm using now, it'll probably give me more headroom and bandwith too to use a higher power amplifier. I'm guessing low pass is what I should use for the sub, and play around with the punch bass of course. It's fairly late right now so I'm not going to bother with it tonight as I won't feel like shaking the house at this time of night, but I'll get at it tommorow and let you know how it goes, I'm thinking of perhaps making a portable unit out of this. Screw some old backpack straps to it, screw a psu inside and cut a hole for the power socket :P I bet that would look pretty old school. Thanks again NM -P

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NachoMahma (author)Punkguyta2007-09-19

> I'm guessing that the charger doesn't have enough wattage or something being it is a trickle charger . Should be enough for idling, but maybe not for startup. Hook up your voltmeter to the amp power terminals and watch the voltage. . . Try: short the inputs (skip if you're not sure how, not that important); attach speakers (the closer to 16 ohm, the better, for this test, but not critical - just want something that will make a sound w/o bothering the amp) to all spkr outputs; apply power (no remote, yet) and see if you hear a thump from the speakers. Then try it with the remote(s) jumpered. You may have to wait a second or two before the amp turns on the outputs. . A thump from the speakers is a good thing. No thump is a good indicator (but not proof) of a dead unit.

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Punkguyta (author)NachoMahma2007-09-20

Well actually what I did was pull out a old atx power supply I found, cut the end off one of the molex cables and stripped the yellow and ground wire (yellow 12v+) to test both units. The rockford, I connected the 12v to the appropriate connector and the ground to gnd, then a jumper wire from the 12v. I touched the other end of the wire to the rem connector hoping the led would light up and nothing. I'm afraid of connecting any speakers to it incase it's not entirely dead and power surges my sub or something, but maybe I should try anyways? The silver one, same setup, and when I touched the wire from the 12v to the rem, the led lit up, and then it started blinking on and off on and off consistantly. I'm not sure if I should try hooking speakers up to that one or not, it was half-dissembled when I got it, and I do need to re-attach the transistors to the heatsink, but I think he was just cleaning it or something and lost the screws, it was pretty dirty. I'm not sure what to do, hopefully they aren't both dead, perhaps why I got them for free? But I was under the impression from the guy that they were still fine. Try another psu perhaps?

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NachoMahma (author)Punkguyta2007-09-20

. Some amps (especially the higher power ones), "look" at the inputs and outputs before fully powering up. The input is usually not a problem, unless the level is too high. Without speakers, the amp may not power up. Without an input, the output levels shouldn't harm your speakers, but I suppose there is a chance that a bad amp could come on at full output. . Turning any gain adjustments to minimum will help protect your speakers. Shorting the inputs will help keep the output low, but most amps don't require it. . There are two pins on the mobo connector that need to be shorted for the PS to come on and stay on (don't remember which ones). Did you do that? If not, that might cause the blinking LED. . I'd make sure all heatsinks are functioning before powering up.

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Punkguyta (author)NachoMahma2007-09-21

Well yea I should try hooking a couple speakers up to it, I'll try that tomorrow. And it was an old style atx 250 watt psu, it has a separate switch to turn on and that worked fine. And how would I make sure the heat sinks are functioning?

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NachoMahma (author)Punkguyta2007-09-22

> how would I make sure the heat sinks are functioning? . In their proper place.

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Punkguyta (author)NachoMahma2007-09-22

I think they're both pouched, but guess what, I bought 2 new audiovox amps and they work great, 150 watts for $10 each.

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gmoon (author)Punkguyta2007-09-21

I think you're on the right track with the remote. Usually radio circuits have a wire from the ignition system, so the amp automatically cuts out when the starter is cranking (starter needs all the current, and the power surge during starting is pretty nasty for the amp, too.) I imaging it's 12V, but you can look up the radio wiring connector for just about any car, it'll have the ignition cutout.

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Goodhart (author)Punkguyta2007-09-20

Last night I tried a battery charger, used the clamps to hold onto some wires I had (thick enough too) and tried putting 12V on both the B+ and rem on the first one and on the second one as well, neither lit up. I'm guessing that the charger doesn't have enough wattage or something being it is a trickle charger.

You're probably correct, if it is a trickle charger and doesn't have a "start boost" setting.

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NachoMahma (author)NachoMahma2007-09-20

. If I guessed that right, then HP would be used if the amp is for the high end of a bi-amp'd system, LP for the woofers.

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chase!! (author)2007-09-19

Run a heavy cable (thing 8 gauge or heavier) from the red terminal of your battery to the +12 V in on the amp. Then run the ground to your chassis (or the black terminal if you're super cool like me and have a battery in the trunk of your car). Then run a smaller wire (like 18 gauge) to your head unit or the ignition where the accessories part comes on (it'll vary from car to car). This wire is usually blue. Alternatively, if you have a power antenna you can run it to the antenna harness where you'll usually find 3 wires (+12V, ground, and the accessory part). I have my amps set up to turn on with the antenna. Oh, and don't forget to put a fuse in-line with your +12V line!

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chase!! (author)chase!!2007-09-19

Also, the remote on just turns the amp on whenever it sees +12V. If you connected it to the red terminal on the battery the amp would turn on. It won't go off unless you disconnect it though.

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Punkguyta (author)chase!!2007-09-19

I forgot to mention that I was planning to power it, IN my house, not the car, although at some point it will be in a car. Could I use a computer power supply? and then just take a jumper wire and hook it onto the remote hookup?

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