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How to use a Jones & Shipman tool and cutter grinder? Answered

Steveastro's magical workshop of many wonderful toys has a very nice Jones-Shipman model 311 tool and cutter grinder, the trouble is however, that we don't have a clue as to how to set it up and use it. Our master machinist says working these things is an art and that its a full 5 year apprenticeship on cutter grinding ALONE. We have a box full of essentially shredded endmills waiting to be sharpened and since we have the tool to do it, it would be quite worthwhile if we could acquire a bit of help getting it up and running.



5 years ago

hi forgot to say i have been, a tool and cutter grinder for 30 years now, i work on both off these machines

The question was pretty much asking for a tutorial on HOW to use this thing, with all the tricky bits like angles and speeds and such for various tools and cutters, so If you can do something like. that, I'm sure Steve(my boss over there) would greatly appreciate it.
(I no longer work for him though, but it was a most excellent internship)

try this link other one did not work

its hard to describe how to set a machine up with out being there to tell people,i have pasted a link to tell you cutting rakes and how to grind on tool and cutter machines

hope this helps out


5 years ago

to sharpen dias u will need a air bearing with collets and do over a finger at the center off the wheel ,use work head to do end using a index plate or finger,

PS I think I used to rotate the head against the finger and maintain manual presure while I traversed but I honestly can't remember. For som jobs we used an indexing plunger on the rotary workhead but I can't imagine doing so for slot drills

I used to operate a Jones and Shipman Cutter grinder (not this model back in the late seventies. And a Cincinati which had the same controls.

to grind the end of a slot drill or end mill I would first mount an aluminium oxide cup wheel and dress it to a fine edge with a diamond dresser mounted on the table, If itis a a tct tool I would have used a diamond wheel. IIRC I would always have the wheelhead set on 1/2 degree for cup wheels so that the outside edge cuts first

You set the table to any rake required toward the centre of the cutter and tip the working head to get the primary relief angle. and readjusted if you need to back off to get a desired land width. I used to do more slot drills than endmills to be honest and it was a long time ago.

You need to set up an indexing finger or head so each blade stops horizontal and then traverse the blade across the wheel increasing the cut until it starts cutting, take a the same amount off each tooth befor increasing the cut. repeat until the wear is all removed then put small er and smaller cuts on going round all the teeth until they all spark off the same.

I used to to this stood around the back of the macchine using the small diamet traversing wheels not the big ones at the front.. That way you are looking straight at the business end of the cutter and the traversing is quicker action.

Hope this makes some sense, there is probably a lot I have forgotten. If you need to do the flutes of a cutter you need another spiral attachment which bolts on the table. I used to do endmills and slot drills when there was nothing else to do I mostly did TCT stuff which we made for people like Girling, spot face cutters, Galtona inserts stub drills etc.

Websearch says there are people who sell spare parts and user's manuals for these. Those manuals may assume that you already know all the principles, admittedly.


6 years ago

Interns scare easy.
It goes Left Right, In Out and Up Down all in sync.
Tilt probably gear speed and no automatic stupid limit kill power switch.
Which I would immediately set into play.
Does not have the look of computer involvement.
Start learning with wood dowels :-)