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Installing drywall in a room that has 1/4 " paneling.? Answered

I want to remove the paneling and use drywall. I realize that my window and door facings are not going to fit over the drywall. How do I remedy this problem?  I also have one wall that will have to be handled differently because it has built-in cabinets and shelves. How do I handle these walls? I did not mention that I want to keep my molding because they are stained to match the cabinets and the house is thirty years old and I probably will not be able to match the stain.



If the drywall is thicker than the paneling or you install over the paneling you will have to slightly trim the ends of your moldings to fit.


8 years ago

There are a few ways to approach the problem.
First determine what is behind the paneling. If there is plaster or drywall, it is quite simple, use 1/4" thick drywall to replace the paneling.
If the paneling is attached directly to the wall studs, its not the door or window casing but the jambs that will need to be altered. The jambs will have to be widened 1/4" to accommodate the additional thickness of the drywall.
A 1/4" thick piece of wood can be attached  to the edge of the jamb, filled and stained to match or my preference; fill, sand and re-stain the entire jamb. Even if you can't achieve a perfect match, a slight variation on the jambs would be barely noticeable, if at all.
You don't say, but if the built-in cabinets are surface mounted, remove them from the wall, hang the drywall and then re-install them. If they are let in to the wall you can use a method similar to the way I described regarding the door jambs.

Did you check to see if your paneling has drywall under it?  I've done a few house demos where that was the case.

You're also going to need to pull off the molding.  If you do it carefully with a pry bar or a putty knife, there would be no reason you couldn't reuse it.  Just be sure you mark where it came from.  If you got the same type of finishing nails, you could most likely even go through the old holes so there would be no visible damage or empty nail holes.

As for the cabinets, it would probably be best if you took them down and hung them back up after the drywall job.  I guess you could cut around them, hang the drywall and caulk the seam really well (since I doubt you will want to tape & spackle the cabinets), but that probably wouldn't look as professional.